Estimated Cost To Build

[klikster]

Anyone care to make an estimate at the cost to build this plan.

http://islandstylehouseplans.com/Details.php?id=2-2%202030

Up country, outside Korat town. I buy the materials and get various contractors?

- Natural elevated land (not filled paddy land)

- Elevated (1 - 1.5 m) concrete slab floor and terrace, 40(?) posts & piers

- Aerated concrete block, 15 cm

- Good quality roof tiles, fiberglass blanket with foil, white/light micro-sphere roof coating

- Granito floors, except bathrooms (quality non-slip tile)

- Non-slip tile or terra cotta on terrace

- White epoxy aluminum windows and doors, 6mm UV glass

[neverdie]

I failed to see how big the house was, in square metres, feet, or whatever. Bit hard to guesstimate a buiding price without that.

[sorensen]

I failed to see how big the house was, in square metres, feet, or whatever. Bit hard to guesstimate a buiding price without that.

It is on page 2:

Living area = 1,680 ft2

Stair area = 164 ft2

Lana/Deck area = 1,344 ft2 (?)

If it is onlyin wood, I thing you can do it for under 1.5 million.

[neverdie]

I failed to see how big the house was, in square metres, feet, or whatever. Bit hard to guesstimate a buiding price without that.

It is on page 2:

Living area = 1,680 ft2

Stair area = 164 ft2

Lana/Deck area = 1,344 ft2 (?)

If it is onlyin wood, I thing you can do it for under 1.5 million.

Ohh dear, I didnt even see page 2.

Based on what I have heard from others, one should roughtly expect to pay around 12,000 to 15,000 thb per square metre for reasonable quality. I think the house is styled slightly differently to what alot of thai builders would be familiar with.

[klikster]

If it is onlyin wood, I thing you can do it for under 1.5 million.

- Elevated (1 - 1.5 m) concrete slab floor and terrace, 40(?) posts & piers

- Aerated concrete block, 15 cm

[Beardog]

Klikster,

The usual cost is roughly 8500 to 10,000 or more per Sq. Meter. The size is similar to ours we are building now. The 15cm brick will drive the cost up more than double the 7-7.5 size that is common in regards to the superblock or similar. The elevated floor will add up to 150,000 or more. ours has 24 {3 meters deep posts}(dam_n near pilings) The roof is Trilon the long asbestos tile(newer version of the old stuff) We saved close to 145,000 over using c-pac roof.

The usual price for the builder is 8900 to 10,000 baht a sq. mtr. We got an exceptional deal on our house cost. I put in all the plumbing septic gray water outlets & Underground electric cable. That & We are on the wings of a buddy that had 2 smaller houses built & he cut us a 6,800 per mtr. deal. He is the first Thai builder that really knows his shit & is king of the overbuild & has t-squares & real levels. our house is 174 meters + patios . Probably 206 meters. The quotes were from 1.15 mil. to 1.7 mill.+ the extra upgrades. your house I think will probably be closer to 2 mill+ pending on if you are stuck on a cpac roof & the 15mm brick( probably somewhere around 30-40,000 more for the double size. If your going to build in a paddy field you may be better of with a deep piling type foundation.Depending how luxurious you fit the inside. Granite counter tops & upgrade fixtures can drive your cost up considerately. I figure our 1.15 mill house will be at least 1.4 or up with some modest upgrades. Unfortunately no granite tops in this build.

Looks like the Hawaiian plantation house would fit here fine- Except most likely cement the price would be a lot higher unless you could purchace an old taek house you can get the lumber for & the extra to grease the wheels of the cops that see the truckload of teak(legit or not)

Let us know how it goes!

Good luck..........I guess the other factor is where your contractor is working out of. Pattaya area can be pricey.

[klikster]

Klikster,

The usual cost is roughly 8500 to 10,000 or more per Sq. Meter. The size is similar to ours we are building now. The 15cm brick will drive the cost up more than double the 7-7.5 size that is common in regards to the superblock or similar. The elevated floor will add up to 150,000 or more. ours has 24 {3 meters deep posts}(dam_n near pilings) The roof is Trilon the long asbestos tile(newer version of the old stuff) We saved close to 145,000 over using c-pac roof.

The usual price for the builder is 8900 to 10,000 baht a sq. mtr. We got an exceptional deal on our house cost. I put in all the plumbing septic gray water outlets & Underground electric cable. That & We are on the wings of a buddy that had 2 smaller houses built & he cut us a 6,800 per mtr. deal. He is the first Thai builder that really knows his shit & is king of the overbuild & has t-squares & real levels. our house is 174 meters + patios . Probably 206 meters. The quotes were from 1.15 mil. to 1.7 mill.+ the extra upgrades. your house I think will probably be closer to 2 mill+ pending on if you are stuck on a cpac roof & the 15mm brick( probably somewhere around 30-40,000 more for the double size. If your going to build in a paddy field you may be better of with a deep piling type foundation.Depending how luxurious you fit the inside. Granite counter tops & upgrade fixtures can drive your cost up considerately. I figure our 1.15 mill house will be at least 1.4 or up with some modest upgrades. Unfortunately no granite tops in this build.

Looks like the Hawaiian plantation house would fit here fine- Except most likely cement the price would be a lot higher unless you could purchace an old taek house you can get the lumber for & the extra to grease the wheels of the cops that see the truckload of teak(legit or not)

Let us know how it goes!

Good luck..........I guess the other factor is where your contractor is working out of. Pattaya area can be pricey.

Hi Beardog,

Up country, outside Korat town. I buy the materials and get various contractors?

- Natural elevated land (not filled paddy land)

I definitely want to go aerated concrete, maybe 7.5 cm is the 15 cm is overkill.

[Beardog]

Klikster,

The usual cost is roughly 8500 to 10,000 or more per Sq. Meter. The size is similar to ours we are building now. The 15cm brick will drive the cost up more than double the 7-7.5 size that is common in regards to the superblock or similar. The elevated floor will add up to 150,000 or more. ours has 24 {3 meters deep posts}(dam_n near pilings) The roof is Trilon the long asbestos tile(newer version of the old stuff) We saved close to 145,000 over using c-pac roof.

The usual price for the builder is 8900 to 10,000 baht a sq. mtr. We got an exceptional deal on our house cost. I put in all the plumbing septic gray water outlets & Underground electric cable. That & We are on the wings of a buddy that had 2 smaller houses built & he cut us a 6,800 per mtr. deal. He is the first Thai builder that really knows his shit & is king of the overbuild & has t-squares & real levels. our house is 174 meters + patios . Probably 206 meters. The quotes were from 1.15 mil. to 1.7 mill.+ the extra upgrades. your house I think will probably be closer to 2 mill+ pending on if you are stuck on a cpac roof & the 15mm brick( probably somewhere around 30-40,000 more for the double size. If your going to build in a paddy field you may be better of with a deep piling type foundation.Depending how luxurious you fit the inside. Granite counter tops & upgrade fixtures can drive your cost up considerately. I figure our 1.15 mill house will be at least 1.4 or up with some modest upgrades. Unfortunately no granite tops in this build.

Looks like the Hawaiian plantation house would fit here fine- Except most likely cement the price would be a lot higher unless you could purchace an old taek house you can get the lumber for & the extra to grease the wheels of the cops that see the truckload of teak(legit or not)

Let us know how it goes!

Good luck..........I guess the other factor is where your contractor is working out of. Pattaya area can be pricey.

Hi Beardog,

Up country, outside Korat town. I buy the materials and get various contractors?

- Natural elevated land (not filled paddy land)

I definitely want to go aerated concrete, maybe 7.5 cm is the 15 cm is overkill.

Maybe Naam will jump in. He is the grand master in physics & dynamics of insulation & many other subjects!

I think 7.5 is adequate- but Europe uses I think 30- 40 cm as their usual bricks. The superblocks are indeed cooler from what I can see in other houses- But I am not sure the 15cm is that much more of a benefit. You are probably going to have an AC? At least to cool the house down a bit? You will save some bucks if it is not an elevated house for sure. I heard your area you should be able to get a pretty decent bid especially piecing out the work & doing the purchasing.That had to rack up at least 10% on the bids for the contractor to get the subs or do it himself while he gets the ordering done. Just keep an eye on the work. The last bozos that built the camp house(granted it was only 220,000 for the house was some of the poorest & crustiest craftsmanship I have ever seen. This time all my work has been completed before theirs so I have no one to blame but myself if something is wrong.

I think if you search under Q con brick or superblock it already has a lot of info.I'm sure you already have a good idea on how to keep your house cool with building in the optimum alignment for least sun exposure. That & the placement of trees really cools the house down a lot.

[klikster]

I think 7.5 is adequate- but Europe uses I think 30- 40 cm as their usual bricks. The superblocks are indeed cooler from what I can see in other houses- But I am not sure the 15cm is that much more of a benefit.

There are lots of situations in physics where "double the XXX provides only 50% (or less) additional benefit". I suspect that this is one of those instances.

[Beardog]

After rereading about the super block (or the equivalent)you might be better off with double block 7.5cm. with a cavity in the middle for your conduit & plumbing. With the Queensland style house with the rap around patios it will keep it cool as well. I would have went for the same double wall as well but decided since the house we are doing is somewhat in the right orientation to keep it cool & we have tons of trees we planted 3 years ago with the house build in mind, so it should offer a lot of shade. that & air con in the bedroom & maybe the living room. The extra money we save on expenditures are going into the upgrades in fixtures & creature features.

good luck on your build!

Beardog

Edited June 9, 2010 by Beardog

[bankruatsteve]

FYI: my plan is to go with double 7.5cm superblock b/c it costs less than single 15. (don't know why). But, I think not with a caviity b/c it's so easy to cut and cavities are, well cavities that are probably great for ant homes (or other critters).

[stgrhe]

FYI: my plan is to go with double 7.5cm superblock b/c it costs less than single 15. (don't know why). But, I think not with a caviity b/c it's so easy to cut and cavities are, well cavities that are probably great for ant homes (or other critters).

I used double 7.5 cm super blocks with cavities and ran all vertical conduits and water pipes in the cavities, which was very practical. In addition, the air in the cavities is a very good insulator.

[klikster]

FYI: my plan is to go with double 7.5cm superblock b/c it costs less than single 15. (don't know why). But, I think not with a caviity b/c it's so easy to cut and cavities are, well cavities that are probably great for ant homes (or other critters).

I used double 7.5 cm super blocks with cavities and ran all vertical conduits and water pipes in the cavities, which was very practical. In addition, the air in the cavities is a very good insulator.

Two 7.5 cm walls with a dead-air space will certainly be better for sound attenuation as well. But I wonder about the mechanical integrity of a 7.5 cm external wall.

[Beardog]

One of the posters here on TV is a civil engineer from England & his build is double standard block instead of superblock or q-con or smart block. Either way the only worries one would have for a single block or double would be if a thief had a sledgehammer to gain access into the house. & then either way the walls would break & the Kamoie would gain access. If your foundation is sound & they put in the headers(lintels) & support between the portion of the wall that is to have added support, your wall should be safe . The main concern is getting the foundation done right & the right rebar along with the right footings,pilings or whatever type of foundation is used. Better to be overbuilt then underbuilt. While we are on relatively hard ground the contractor opted(at his expense) to change the 1.20 mtr. t footing (sow) to a 3 meter deep poured pilings instead- after seeing the hack job the previous contractor did on the camp house. Even the plank floor & poured cement are overkill which pleases me as I did a lot of foundation work in the 80's & know the importance of a great foundation. Structurally you could use a rammed earth foundation with an adobe style brick if it is done correctly. The only 2 builds I don't care for are W-panel(straight up bullshit & designed to fail) & bamboo. Even though some would argue that bamboo is worthy I am still skeptical since it cracks upon aging.

[klikster]

FYI: my plan is to go with double 7.5cm superblock b/c it costs less than single 15. (don't know why). But, I think not with a caviity b/c it's so easy to cut and cavities are, well cavities that are probably great for ant homes (or other critters).

I used double 7.5 cm super blocks with cavities and ran all vertical conduits and water pipes in the cavities, which was very practical. In addition, the air in the cavities is a very good insulator.

Are you talking about putting services in cavities within the blocks, or the cavity between the 2 rows of blocks?

[klikster]

.. I don't care for are W-panel(straight up bullshit & designed to fail) ..

What is W-panel? The only search reference I saw that related to building was a complex corrugated roof.

[Beardog]

Ah W Panel.

I worked for an outfit in San Diego & some sweet talker conned his way into getting investors. I still made money but they took it in the shorts. W panel is a wire mesh cage that has a layer of insulation hard foam impregnated in side the mesh. The foundation had weak looking brackets that the panels fit into & was put in the slot & a heavy gauge wire is twisted into the bracket(in cement). You join all of it together & it makes a somewhat fortified structure that was flimsy at best Everyone on the site was skeptical of this non conforming type of new fan-dangled type of building.

To make this story short...When it came time to have the cement companies do the job, as they started everyone noticed it was developing a sag in the middle. As a little time went on the validity of this type of build fell for the VP which was the conman . He sent Brian & I to go in & use these funky t-sticks he made & go in there & hold up tons of cement. Since this was the last day on this project We told the VP to take this job & shove it. They gave up on the project & left the other 3 models to rot.

This event made to new depths of bailing wire & chewing gum & great paint to try to paint a turd.

Sorry about the long story........ I am going back for the 4th of July with family & friends & am jacked up on getting to see buddies in America & stock up on all the hardware stuff I can't get in LOS. And best of all I get to get away from building for a while. The contractor is to the point of the rough in stuff & not to much can get out of hand.