Treating Wood

[JusMe]

I'm having a small deck built out the back of my house. It's mostly covered, but there will be some splash from rain and wind on at least part of it.

I am such a klutz in any kind of construction or building. I believe - I'll ask my workman again when he shows up, and try to get an answer I can understand - that the planks we're using are mai khaen hua (Ceylon/Malabar Ironwood).

I don't want to use paint, but perhaps some kind of oil? Linseed oil, if it's available? I have read that sometimes an ordinary palm oil will work well.

But before splashing anything, I'm looking for some simple advice.

[GungaDin]

Hi jusme,

if you use linseed oil, the odour will be superb........ just like an old cricket bat.

Good luck with it.

[JusMe]

It looks great, but I do think I'll probably need to treat it. The wood must have come straight from the mill, as it really is still moist, so it should dry, I think, before doing anything to it.

But what should I do? Not a problem smelling like a cricket bat, although that would fade. But what other treatments might be recommended?

I did ask my workman what the wood is, and although we have communication problems, he wrote it down for me: see attached

I can't read it, but I'm sure lots of good TVers can.

[GungaDin]

The musical instrument maker based in Laos might be able to help you,

he has a good thread somewhere in the forum, do a search for timber or exotic timber / wood etc.

[bankruatsteve]

Not an expert in this but I have seen wood straight from the mill used for construction untreated and within a few months there are little sawdust holes from (I assume) some kind of wood boring beetle. So, I suggest treating it right away with the smelly protective stuff (which will also act as a stain) and then several coats of the oil after constuction.

[JusMe]

Not an expert in this but I have seen wood straight from the mill used for construction untreated and within a few months there are little sawdust holes from (I assume) some kind of wood boring beetle. So, I suggest treating it right away with the smelly protective stuff (which will also act as a stain) and then several coats of the oil after constuction.

GungaDin mentioned the earlier thread. I even saved part of it, including the pictures. That's what probably started me on the idea of doing something to protect this wood.

Steve, any idea what that smelly protective stuff might be? Buy it at Global or HomePro? Now, as the deck has been constructed (it's partially over an earlier tile deck), I can only access the top part. And what sort of oil would you suggest? Obviously this is all after construction, as it was done yesterday afternoon.

Any and all help and suggestions welcomed. Any translation of what kind of wood it is?

[bankruatsteve]

Not an expert in this but I have seen wood straight from the mill used for construction untreated and within a few months there are little sawdust holes from (I assume) some kind of wood boring beetle. So, I suggest treating it right away with the smelly protective stuff (which will also act as a stain) and then several coats of the oil after constuction.

GungaDin mentioned the earlier thread. I even saved part of it, including the pictures. That's what probably started me on the idea of doing something to protect this wood.

Steve, any idea what that smelly protective stuff might be? Buy it at Global or HomePro? Now, as the deck has been constructed (it's partially over an earlier tile deck), I can only access the top part. And what sort of oil would you suggest? Obviously this is all after construction, as it was done yesterday afternoon.

Any and all help and suggestions welcomed. Any translation of what kind of wood it is?

Sorry I don't know the brand, but I'm pretty sure it's fairly common as the locals start using the stuff AFTER they see the damage and then get worried. But, if you can't access all the exposed surface, I'm not sure what good it will do to just treat the ones you can access.. Actually the only problem I have seen is on the vertical studs. (Well, b/c they are exposed and you can see them.) I don't know what those bugs go for. Can you spray some chemical under your deck?

As for oil, in the states I used a linseed oil stain on my redwood deck that looked good for a few years before needing strip and re-apply.

Anyway... that's my experience.

Cheers

[bankruatsteve]

Oh - as for your "mai ka bak" (that's my guess for phonetic english) - I have no idea. As close as I can make out it means wood chip. Maybe ask in the Thai language forum?

Afterthought... is it the composite kind of wood? ie: made out of wood chips? Not sure how that would take to oil.

Edited June 9, 2010 by bankruatsteve

[ExpatJ]

"Treating Wood"

" Small Deck - Should I treat the wood, and if so how?"

Size isn't important, just accept what god gave you.

[ExpatJ]

"Treating Wood"

" Small Deck - Should I treat the wood, and if so how?"

Size isn't important, just accept what god gave you.

couldnt resist it- probably only funny to americans

[JusMe]

Took me a moment, ExpatJ, but I got it. Amusing.Steve, it isn't a composite at all, but sawn planks. So I think it would take the oil without a problem. Just have to get it properly dried first, I think. Not only do I have some splash from our regular downpours, but it did come fresh from the mill and was moist when installed.I got the impression that the mai ka bak is a common, cheap wood. Just curious about how we might translate it so I can have some sort of comparisons with the few North American woods I know. Definitely not a composite, though. Perhaps many are made from the same kind of wood in chips?

[GungaDin]

Jusme, why are you using unseasoned, green planks?

[JusMe]

Because that's what my workman brought in his truck. At least they sure seem unseasoned, green planks to me!

[jackr]

It'll fall to bits no matter what you do to it being outside and not being teak. You need to at least let the wood age if it's not long from being a tree before installing as it'll shrink and look a mess. You could bung some Chaindrite on it and then teak oil or deck stain (no linseed here) after dry, which will need constant recoating, but fear you'll just be delaying the inevitable and especially as the underside wasn't treated.

I toyed with using real wood for a deck but went with Conwood in the end... just too many negatives out here. Still looks good after 18 months in full sun/rain (zero warp or rot) and only needs a lick of roof paint every year or two. Have treated mai daeng for balcony railing and even that's being battered after couple years.

[JusMe]

Thanks, Jack. Sounds reasonable.

With my limited communication skills, I did ask him about the wood shrinking as it dried, and he indicated that it wouldn't. As he comes around regularly, if it does I'll be sure to point that out to him.

I'll be in the DIY shops next week, so see about some Chaindrite and oil or stain. Even if it needs recoating every couple of years or so, I still like wood. I like the softer feel underfoot, and it sure doesn't hold the heat like tiles.

I'm unfamiliar with Conwood. Composite? Something artificial?

[bankruatsteve]

I've never seen "green" wood shrink. But it will almost certainly warp and crack without some kind of treatment. So, whatever you do seems like it would only help. How about an update in 6 months or so? Cheers.

[bkk_mike]

We used to have a small deck in the garden (we bought the show house, so it was part of the original purchase.)

Anyway - termites got it and we now have concrete (with a tiled section, and small stones embedded in it where it's not tiled so it actually looks quite good). Anyway, if I was building a deck now, I'd go for the sort-of plastic wood that you often see garden furniture made out of - or go for actual teak. (We had some stuff re-done in teak, then varnished, and that seems to be lasting quite well (admittedly it was mainly internal, and what we have outside isn't in the rain.)

[jackr]

I'm unfamiliar with Conwood. Composite? Something artificial?

Yeah, this stuff >>>

"We use green technology from Switzerland to mix with Portland cement and Fibre-cellulose by without asbestos (100% Asbestos Free) that is medically proved that cause the pollution and poor health."

100% Asbestos Free

Fire resistance

Termite free

No bending

No delaminating

Strong

Light weight & Easy installation

Environment friendly

[samuijimmy]

It'll fall to bits no matter what you do to it being outside and not being teak. You need to at least let the wood age if it's not long from being a tree before installing as it'll shrink and look a mess. You could bung some Chaindrite on it and then teak oil or deck stain (no linseed here) after dry, which will need constant recoating, but fear you'll just be delaying the inevitable and especially as the underside wasn't treated.

I toyed with using real wood for a deck but went with Conwood in the end... just too many negatives out here. Still looks good after 18 months in full sun/rain (zero warp or rot) and only needs a lick of roof paint every year or two. Have treated mai daeng for balcony railing and even that's being battered after couple years.

Yes, I agree here, use Chaindrit, first It is available in various colors of brown, or clear. Home Pro, & Home Mart carry it... 1 litre to 15 or maybe it's 20 litre sized containers,

Get the workers to paint the top & bottom & sides of boards before installing... If you have wood in the ground, use it there too.

Thai's know the name, Chaindrit, it is pronounced the same in Thai. It smells a little for a few days... but after that no smell..

Edited June 17, 2010 by samuijimmy

[David006]

"Treating Wood"

" Small Deck - Should I treat the wood, and if so how?"

Size isn't important, just accept what god gave you.

couldnt resist it- probably only funny to americans

Very good .lol....off topice but reminds me what my wife said the other day after getting her sisters' laptop fixed.

"she needed new bigger dick drive, old one too small and have buggs"

on topic ..the hardwood planks (no idea what they are) I used on our shade house deck seem to be impervious to rot or attack except where they is residual bark...

Edited June 17, 2010 by David006

[JusMe]

Yes, I agree here, use Chaindrit, first It is available in various colors of brown, or clear. Home Pro, & Home Mart carry it... 1 litre to 15 or maybe it's 20 litre sized containers,

Get the workers to paint the top & bottom & sides of boards before installing... If you have wood in the ground, use it there too.

Thai's know the name, Chaindrit, it is pronounced the same in Thai. It smells a little for a few days... but after that no smell..

Steve asked for an update in six months, and I've marked my calendar to do that.

However, right now: Deck installed by workmen, so no chance to cover any of it underside, Tuesday, June 8th. Apparently the wood is unknown to us, but as it came creamy white and within a week or so turned a lovely tawny tan colour, I suspect the local name is just a variation of mai khaen hua.

Stopped in at HomePro and used the term "Chaindrite" and immediately was given Solignum, which is I assume a brand name of permethrin, the anti-termite and other nasties chemical.

This morning, Thursday, June 17th - one coat of Solignum. Unfortunately, as the deck is already installed and the underside is unaccessible, it was coated only on the top. One can, a litre, just managed to cover the 13.5 square metres of planking. However, as one section of the deck is supported by a tile deck underneath, and the other end by steel posts resting in concrete, no deck wood comes in contact at all with the ground. I'm hoping that the no ground contact might be some help.

I figure either tomorrow or Saturday, a coat of Woodtect Decking Stain. I waited until I got home to read the label, and discovered that they recommend three coats, which will mean three cans. Another trip to HomePro sometime. Not going to be immediate, but once I've got the initial coat on, I can probably spread out the next two.

I will be sure to provide updates so we can all see the survival or deterioration of my little deck

Jack, that Conwood looks interesting, but somehow I think it might have one of the problems I had with the tile deck that's underneath - soaking up the heat so that it becomes unpleasant standing on it in the sun. The heat property is one of the main reasons I wanted to go with wood. I also like the softer feel of wood underfoot, and I'm guessing the Conwood would be quite hard, like tile.

Edited June 17, 2010 by JusMe

[canopy]

Portland cement is not environmentally friendly thus Conwood claiming as much is a marketing gimmick. Doubtful they would compare themselves to real environmentally friendly products but instead just solid cement. Also be careful because usually the only thing teak about teak oil is the name. Most likely there is little or even no teak oil in the product at all. It's just a name they slap on to get people to buy it.. Check the content list.

Edited June 17, 2010 by canopy

[bankruatsteve]

Somebody said there is no linseed oil stain available here. So maybe try adding a cup of cooking (veg) oil to your stain. It couldn't hurt and probably put a nice shine and help with the water resist. ??

[JusMe]

Somebody said there is no linseed oil stain available here. So maybe try adding a cup of cooking (veg) oil to your stain. It couldn't hurt and probably put a nice shine and help with the water resist. ??

Well, not much interested in getting a shine to it. Nice matt finish is actually preferred. And I got the clear stain as I'd prefer the wood itself to show. Right now, it does look very good.

From the can: "Woodtect Decking Stain Matt Finish is highly water repellant and high performance woodstain for interior and exterior wood. Only 3 coats are required to protect against rain, sun's harmful UV rays, mildew moulds and fungal staining."

It goes on, but that's the basic of what I want, so can't see much advantage other than ant attractant to adding veg oil to the stain.

[jackr]

Portland cement is not environmentally friendly thus Conwood claiming as much is a marketing gimmick. Doubtful they would compare themselves to real environmentally friendly products but instead just solid cement. Also be careful because usually the only thing teak about teak oil is the name. Most likely there is little or even no teak oil in the product at all. It's just a name they slap on to get people to buy it.. Check the content list.

yes, perhaps a bit OTT, but I think what they're implying is it beats chopping a tree down to make a deck.

Jack, that Conwood looks interesting, but somehow I think it might have one of the problems I had with the tile deck that's underneath - soaking up the heat so that it becomes unpleasant standing on it in the sun. The heat property is one of the main reasons I wanted to go with wood. I also like the softer feel of wood underfoot, and I'm guessing the Conwood would be quite hard, like tile.

It does get hot after being in full sun but nothing like standing on tiles or concrete. It is also nice underfoot and there's absolutely no chance of kids getting splinters. I also love wood but out here there are just too many negatives.