Competent Brake Shop In Pattaya

[just_another_guy]

Does anyone know of a brake shop that can repair a steel brake line that runs off the master cylinder to the rear brakes?

A small pin hole has developed about 7 inches from the master cylinder and I really don't want to take it to Toyota where they will no doubt want to change/replace the whole brake line from the master cylinder to the rear brakes.

I just need a shop that can cut out the pin hole and splice the line together.

Any comments / suggestions welcome.

PS: I was going to post this in the Pattaya forum because I am looking for a Pattaya repair shop but opted to post it in the motor forum.

Mods: feel free to post it in the proper forum.

Thanks everyone.

[WarpSpeed]

I would not putz around with brake lines, if there is one hole then when you fix that one (if you could do it properly) it is likely that the line is degrading and you will just get another one somewhere else now that the pressure can no longer escape through the current hole. The primary difference being that next time it may be a catastrophic failure when you need it most and I'd never cut corners or cheap it on my brakes nope not the place to be cheap as either you or someone else may pay the ultimate price for you corner cutting.. There is as much as 2000psi on the front lines and 950psi on the rear brake lines serious pressure not to be played with..

Don't be falang kenyow and just replace it properly don't forget where you are and what level of fabrication you may get, in fact the very repair your speaking of has only one really good way to repair and that would be cutting it and pressing on a new union connection whether it's in the middle of the line or at a joint and I would not trust anyone here to do that properly as it requires special equipment to do properly.. But as I said and can not emphasize enough when a hose or tube gets a perforation from inside there is a reason and another one not too far behind, time to replace..

From there, up to you....

I just reread and I understood it to be in a stainless braided line but you mean it is in the steel line to the rear brakes so while everything I said is still true it is possible to fix this possibly with a brass compression fitting if it is a good fit before compression, but still not advisable for all of the reasons stated above..Likely there was moisture in your brake system that rusted the line from the inside out.. How old is the car?

[hakku]

I'm with Warpy on the replacement attitude, have the whole line checked and replaced where needed, depending on age it might need more then the eye meets. Go the B-Quik at BigC and let them have a look.

Hak

[just_another_guy]

Finally sorted.

Tried Toyota first. "Sorry sir, no have in stock." "Can order from Bangkok, 3 days." Me: Well, this is a serious safety issue, I'd kind of like to get it fixed today.

I suggested that perhaps one of their staff could find the shop that stocks brake tubing, buy 3 foot of tubing & they no doubt would flange the brake line/tube and put on the necessary nuts.

"Sorry sir, cannot. Have to order from Bangkok."

I left and drove down Sukhumvit about a mile to a shop called "Maxxis" I believe.

I showed them the pin hole and leak in the brake line. Guy says with a smile "No problem, can you wait about 50 minutes?"

He jumps on his motorbike and returns about 10 minutes later with a pre-cut 3 foot brake line with the ends flanged and the nuts attached.

He Unbolts the old brake line, made some small bends in the tubing so it would fit, screwed on the new brake line, bleed the complete brake system, cleaned up everything, checked the tire pressure and a quick test drive, rechecked the connections for leaks. Done deal. 500 baht. 40 minutes and a very happy customer.

Now Toyota could have done the same thing & not only made a happy customer, but made money too.

But Nooooooo......instead they let 20 or so mechanics sit around watching TV while the service manager tells me "cannot, have to order from Bangkok 3 days."

Dear Toyota,

I do realize you are #1 in auto sales....but your after service in this case sucks. Please remember, a happy customer is a returning customer.

Kisses & hugs,

J.A.G.

----Thanks for letting me share. I feel so much better now.

and have a good day all....I know I will.

PS: We posted at the same time. I did take it to B-Quick but they could not deal with it. They suggested I find a welding shop to "patch the hole"...but nice group of guys at B-Quick. They even gave me a half opened can of brake fluid (free) to get me by until I could get it sorted.

[just_another_guy]

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions. I just got back and all is well.

Good point about the rust. Perhaps in the near future I will have the total system checked.

Warp:

Very good advise. Thank you.

As an after thought, I just had some front end work done which required the front tires and hubs to be removed. I think what they did was replace the idler arm bushings so that I could get the front end aligned to spec.

Maybe during that repair (4 days ago) they pinched the brake line just above the master cylinder possibility causing that pin hole?

I am lucky that I noticed the brakes a little "spongy" a couple of days after the front end repair that is when I took it to B-Quick who pointed out the pin hole.

Anyway...it was kind of an interesting adventure (for me) and all is well.

Cheers.......

BTW...The beast is 15 years old 300+ kilometers. Yeah yeah...I know I know should buy a new one but as someone said I am a cheap charlie at times.

[WarpSpeed]

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions. I just got back and all is well.

Good point about the rust. Perhaps in the near future I will have the total system checked.

Thanks again all.

No need to wait for the future, have it all bled now, not that expensive and while it won't stop any rust that has already begun it will slow any future degradation and besides moisture in your system is preventing proper braking anyway as it is more compressible where as brake fluid is only barely measurable when compressing..

If they just bled only the rear lines after fixing very possible you still have moisture and old fluid in that will contaminate the entire system again. Good they were able to get an aftermarket universal line without bends and then fit it though, no problem with that as long as they made smooth bends, no kinks and it is attached properly at the proper joints it's as good as factory...

[WarpSpeed]

Yeah second that on the welding thinking which just goes along with what I said about remembering where you are....

I also wanted to say that my suggestion of a compression coupler was for short term temporary use only and not for long term use I.E. if you HAD to wait for a part to be ordered but still wanted to drive safely and needed to drive the car.

[just_another_guy]

Transam,

Perhaps I was a bit hard on my make believe letter to Toyota.

I agree that they would have made it as near new as possible with the proper dimensions, quality of the line etc. If it was a new truck I most likely would have let Toyota deal with it, but I get stuck in a rut always trying to save a buck/baht

I wish I had read your post before I left the shop this morning. Checking the line area around the pin hole for rust would have been interesting and I wish I had taken the line with me or thought of it at the time, but I didn’t.

After reading all of the posts here today, I realized something about myself.

As sad as it is to say, dealing with “stuff” for nearly 8 years non-stop here in Thailand, I find myself sometimes thinking like a Thai..(No disrespect to our hosts intended)

It’s just that If this had happened back home, I never would have considered Mickey Mousing a brake problem.

Sure in an emergency situation you do what you have to do….but for the life of me I cannot believe that yesterday I actually thought welding the pin hole was an Ok thing to do.

Actually I thought it very normal and wondered why I hadn’t thought of it.

These kind of adventures remind me a few years ago (same truck) where I blew out the rear u-joint about a mile from my jungle home in Issan on a busy highway.

I called my Landlord who sent her son to pick me up and take me home. He proceeded to find a shop near-by who could sort the u-joint problem.

I specifically told the “son” to have the “shop” replace all three u-joints because back home it was common knowledge that if one pops, the others are most likely on their final exit as well.

The kid returns the truck to me about 2 hours later. I asked if the shop replaced all three u-joints.

“No problem" he says, "the other u-joints didn’t break…everything OK.”

I thought swell the other two are Okay……NOT !!!

Now get this. The mechanic drives to my broken down pick-up to check the problem, jacks up the truck, climbs under this dirty hot truck on a busy highway in the mid afternoon summer sun, replaces the u-joint and checks the other two joints…..total cost 200 baht.

Only in Issan.

Anyway....Long story short...I started thinking about him only replacing the one joint and after a few days I finally got my SH!T together and had the other two replaced as it should have been done in the first place.

It is interesting how relaxed we get living here, and thinking like a Thai.

[just_another_guy]

Transam---Yeah it’s fun to share experiences with others who can relate.

As far as the UJ is concerned, it’s been 20k+ kilometers since I replaced the UJ and no problems---yet.

I wasn’t present when this miracle worker changed the UJ so apparently he did it correctly or maybe I have a surprise waiting for me just around the next corner.

Time will tell.

Getting back on topic, I will give the national chain MAXXIS a small plug here.

I have used the MAXXIS store in Udon Thani several times, the store in Bangkok once and now the one on Sukhumvit just north of Pattaya Nui, on the left side as you are traveling to BKK, with great results.

Actually I used this one on Sukhumvit about 7 years ago when I had the upper ball joints replaced on another pick-up I had. And as I recall, quick & not expensive.

In my experience & opinion all three stores I have used had at least one “older guy on site” who seem to know quite a bit about vehicles. Once you get past the language barrier & they understand what you want, their work quality is as good if not better than the dealers, at least with the various kinds of repairs I have had done with various old pick-ups, at half the price.

They don't do everything like a dealer, but for minor repairs/after market products like tires/brakes/batteries/ A/C / shocks they get the job done.

Again, if I had a new car, I am not sure I’d use anything but a dealer because the dealers have all the high tech computer stuff, but if you have an older vehicle, these older Thai guys are quite impressive with their knowledge and abilities.

You just have to keep your eye on them so they don’t try and save you too much money by not replacing things that need replacing.

And to go way off topic, B-Quick service center next to the Big C store on Sukhumvit has Mobil 1 fully synthetic motor oil for diesels on sale for just under 1,800 baht for a 6 liter jug. For the last two years I have always paid between 2,500 and 2,600 baht for this stuff.

The service manager assured me the Mobil oil on sale isn’t old stock but in fact was just delivered a few weeks ago. I think he said the sale ends this month.

If you ever thought about switching over to 100% synthetic, Mobil 1 isn't a bad choice and at less than 1,800 baht, it is a fair deal.

[WarpSpeed]

The service manager assured me the Mobil oil on sale isn’t old stock but in fact was just delivered a few weeks ago. I think he said the sale ends this month.

Really doesn't matter, oil doesn't have an expiration date, it doesn't break down or loose viscosity sitting on the shelf, old as good as new, especially synthetic. Most oil is already thousands of years old when you buy it anyway ..

[just_another_guy]

Warp,

I am going to disagree with you about expiration dates.

Both of my jugs of Mobil 1 and the jug of Castrol 100% synthetic oil all have a date stamped on the jug. These were all purchased within the last 8 months at various auto shops in the Pattaya area.

Why would the company emboss a date on the jug unless it had to do with an expiration date or a date of production which would imply to me there is in fact an expiration of some sort associated with synthetic oils.

“ Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds which are artificially made (synthesized) from compounds other than crude oil (petroleum).”

Maybe conventional oils don’t have an expiration aspect, but it appears that synthetic oils do.

What do you think?

Maybe the date is a warning that a better grade API rating will improve after the listed date.

I really don’t know because I cannot read the Thai script next to the date on the jug.

Cheers..

[hakku]

they're the bottling dates so they can refer back to batches produced/blended in case of issues. Oil cannot go off if in the bottle, full stop.

H

[just_another_guy]

Thanks Hakku.....as good of a reason as any.

I would still like to know what the Thai script says next to the date.

Interesting that the Mobil 1 website says that their synthetic oils have a shelf life of 5 years.

Mobil 1

[WarpSpeed]

they're the bottling dates so they can refer back to batches produced/blended in case of issues. Oil cannot go off if in the bottle, full stop.

H

Yes Hak exactly, thank you. nuf said...

On second consideration, what do you think the possibility of someone having a 5 year old stock of such an expensive high end synthetic oil is? What is the likely hood of that do you suppose regardless of any potential for expiring? Kind of a moot point eh? I'm quite sure you weren't really speaking about synthetic oil over 5 years old now were you?

Reading your link it says nothing about an exclusive 5 year shelf life and then dispose of it. It says they recommend a 5 year shelf life, very different and is more a disclaimer then anything else..

[hakku]

With my limited knowledge, I don't see any issues. I indeed wasn't thinking of 5 year old oils and you're right, if you're shelving these products for 5 years you do have other problems besides ageing of the product.

But again if you put a set of brake pads in storage or brake fluid or oil, there is no degeneration possible unless there is exposure to UV, moisture, and oxygen.

My 2c

Warpy, you coming Bira this weekend, if so, drop by in my box, yellow P car.

Hak

[WarpSpeed]

With my limited knowledge, I don't see any issues. I indeed wasn't thinking of 5 year old oils and you're right, if you're shelving these products for 5 years you do have other problems besides ageing of the product.

But again if you put a set of brake pads in storage or brake fluid or oil, there is no degeneration possible unless there is exposure to UV, moisture, and oxygen.

My 2c

Warpy, you coming Bira this weekend, if so, drop by in my box, yellow P car.

Hak

I'd love too but too busy trying to make ends meet these days ..

No need to search the net T/A if someone can find a me a new off the shelf 5 year old bottle of Mobil 1 and then prove it degrades anything or causes any engine damage then I still wouldn't be concerned as the likely hood of purchasing stock that old even here is highly unlikely and not of my concern which was the point of my original post anyways...

But pedantics abounding as usual it now turns into a pissing contest about who's right...It's tiresome really as in most cases it's a moot point and purely argumentative, it doesn't have a shelf life to be concerned about, is that phrasing good enough to suit? Probably not...

One last point on this then I move on, the likely hood of oil break down or contamination comes more from the container it's stored in not the oil breakdown itself.. But if you think about it logically (if that's possible?) what oil company is going to claim eternal shelf life and open themselves up to a perpetual time table of liability to some numb nuts who blows the engine on his vehicle and then claims it was due to the oil breakdown and sues, as I said it's more about legalese, disclaimers and the need to draw boundaries and limits on product liability then actual, viable, shelf life..

[hakku]

and thats not only for oil, but a whole lot of other stuff too, almost silly.....

Hak

[WarpSpeed]

^ no!! Ya think?? Again I bow to your superior knowledge and omnipotence you can go have a nice cold beer now and revel in all your imagined glory...

Conversely I may have posted something that you didn't know, but surely that isn't possible is it??

[WarpSpeed]

Like I said, right on que, you're right you've proven what a grade 'A' tosser you are nothing more....

[WarpSpeed]

and thats not only for oil, but a whole lot of other stuff too, almost silly.....

Hak

Yes Hak, absolutely true.....

[WarpSpeed]

Still too stupid to figure that one out eh?? Well here's a hint, what is the major difference between a factory transmission and say a Hewland for example? And then ask yourself why they use them in the top sportscars and before you go down the wrong path as usual no, it's not just due to durability or light weight either.. You'll find that's the same reason why a left drive car is faster in EVERY instance with a quality 'right handed' driver then a right drive car will ever be or maybe it's still too deep for you??..

Amazing how personal you Brits take any criticism of your beloved 'wrong way' driving even to the point of defending something that is scientifically proven and really doesn't require justification...But I guess if you weren't such cynics and skeptics you would have discovered North America and not Columbus or the Vikings or whom ever....Your cynicism, skepticism and closed mindedness is holding you back.....

[just_another_guy]

Gentlemen, I think this thread has run its course.

I do appreciate ALL of your opinions and ideas and I mean that sincerely.

See you all on the next one.

MODS: The original topic has been sorted for me. Unless someone objects, I request the thread be closed.

Thank you.

jag

[hakku]

Warp,

I am going to disagree with you about expiration dates.

Both of my jugs of Mobil 1 and the jug of Castrol 100% synthetic oil all have a date stamped on the jug. These were all purchased within the last 8 months at various auto shops in the Pattaya area.

Why would the company emboss a date on the jug unless it had to do with an expiration date or a date of production which would imply to me there is in fact an expiration of some sort associated with synthetic oils.

" Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds which are artificially made (synthesized) from compounds other than crude oil (petroleum)."

Maybe conventional oils don't have an expiration aspect, but it appears that synthetic oils do.

What do you think?

Maybe the date is a warning that a better grade API rating will improve after the listed date.

I really don't know because I cannot read the Thai script next to the date on the jug.

Cheers..

Read something interesting, synthetic oil. We know Mobil 1 is the nuts but might not be the top choice for your application. I thought that perhaps main dealer oils were just oil they bought at the right price and put in their logo cans. Seems no, the oil has additives added to suit their particular engineering to fight against possible known problems and provide near perfect protection.

So whether this info is blanket l don't know but interesting. Perhaps the guys who were in the trade can elaborate or pooh pooh the theory.

Pooh Pooh

Toyota oil is bottled and blended by ExxonMobil. Thats why Esso sponsored Toyota F1 and Mobil did Mercedes (and Porsche).

They are same spec, just private label packaging. They will talk shit about since they have to.

Other example, oil filters for Toyota or any other brand), they don't make filters in toyota factories, guess what, they buy them at filter factories and brand them with their logo and part number. Most factories sell these filters under factory brand to the market. is that filter worse? Toyota will tell you their filter is better because it is designed for their car. Draw your own conclusions.

First fill for most factories is a standard product. BMW and Ford use Castrol, Mercedes and Porsche use Mobil, Toyota uses Esso (Mobil) etc.

Hak

[INTJ]

Hak - what is going on at Bira this weekend ?

Cheers

[hakku]

Supercar/Superclub weekend, friday practice and qualifying for all groups (including superbikes), saturday races and sunday races

first races at 08.45, classics at 09.50 and afternoon with super2000, bikes and supercar(open)

Hak