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How To Operate A (Usa) 220V/60Hz Electric Dryer In Los


thailoht

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I know absolutely nothing about electricity but my interest is peeked when a Thai neighbor speaks of Thai acquaintances whose family members bring back USA electric dryers to LOS after finishing their schooling plus of a laundromat owner (in BKK?) that operates her business with electric washers and dryers that have been shipped from the USA. With my conversational Thai being very limited and the neighbor's technical understanding even less, I can not get a technical understanding as to how they are (converting?) operating their USA 220v/60Hz 3-prong plug (USA) electric dryers here in LOS.

Can a simple solution be: Re-wire the American dryer's 220v lines - its (2) 110v-120v lines to the Thai single 220v type-line (the 220v is to the dryer's motor which can easily run at 50Hz?), and then connect the (main?) 110v/120v wire that operates the dryer's 'timers' to a voltage regulator/stabilizer converter? Or am I 'way-off-base'?

Does anyone know the solution first hand or can list a step-by-step work-around?

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I don t get your point. USA current is 110 Volts AC, not 220. So a machine from the USA does actually NOT work in Thailand. The plug however fits the socket !

Not entirely correct. The USA uses 120/240 split phase distribution at the panel. To distribute the load one side to neutral (120) will be used for 1/2 the house load and the other phase for the other. So you have Line 1 Hot > Neutral (120) and Line 2 Hot > Neutral (120). Using Line 1 and Line 2 you get 240VAC for heavier appliances.

One issue is that the motor will run slower and probably hotter if it is running on 50Hz here.

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I'll move this to DIY where the 'lectric chaps live.

Main issue will be that many US '220V' appliances actually need '110V-0-110V' split phase supply, often the timer and maybe the motor too is a 110V unit running off one side of the supply. The big power guzzler (the heater) is a 220V unit to keep the current down.

Maybe, as Transam notes, the manufacturer makes a 'real' 220V unit for export.

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I don t get your point. USA current is 110 Volts AC, not 220. So a machine from the USA does actually NOT work in Thailand. The plug however fits the socket !

These are pictures of the 3-prong American 220v/60Hz electric dryer plug. The prongs are 'angled' so I am not certain if they fit in Thai sockets....

I don t get your point. USA current is 110 Volts AC, not 220. So a machine from the USA does actually NOT work in Thailand. The plug however fits the socket !

Not entirely correct. The USA uses 120/240 split phase distribution at the panel. To distribute the load one side to neutral (120) will be used for 1/2 the house load and the other phase for the other. So you have Line 1 Hot > Neutral (120) and Line 2 Hot > Neutral (120). Using Line 1 and Line 2 you get 240VAC for heavier appliances.

One issue is that the motor will run slower and probably hotter if it is running on 50Hz here.

I'll move this to DIY where the 'lectric chaps live.

Main issue will be that many US '220V' appliances actually need '110V-0-110V' split phase supply, often the timer and maybe the motor too is a 110V unit running off one side of the supply. The big power guzzler (the heater) is a 220V unit to keep the current down.

Maybe, as Transam notes, the manufacturer makes a 'real' 220V unit for export.

.....ahhhh! So it could be that it's the 'heater' that's the 220v power guzzler.

I wish I could definitively determine whether or not they were importing 'export' versions of these dryers but I really doubt it because the US only stocks its versions which are now mfg and imported from outside the US.

This is getting more and more interesting! With having no knowledge about this, and going on the theory that the several people are running their US electrical appliances here, there seems to be some sort of common work around.....

post-80480-0-99675700-1291285403_thumb.j

post-80480-0-96441600-1291285413_thumb.j

Edited by thailoht
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Whilst rummaging I found this wiring diagram of a US 220V dryer. Note that everything except the heater is 110V.

post-14979-0-31079700-1291289703_thumb.j

Armed with a diagram of your dryer it should be possible to make it go with a small-ish transformer to supply the motor and timer (both of which will run slow on 50Hz).

The question is of course, is it worth it when you can buy a decent dryer here and it will already be suitable for the local power, or you could use that big free dryer up in the sky :)

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......I can not get a technical understanding as to how they are (converting?) operating their USA 220v/60Hz 3-prong plug (USA) electric dryers here in LOS.

Can a simple solution be: Re-wire the American dryer's 220v lines - its (2) 110v-120v lines to the Thai single 220v type-line (the 220v is to the dryer's motor which can easily run at 50Hz?), and then connect the (main?) 110v/120v wire that operates the dryer's 'timers' to a voltage regulator/stabilizer converter? Or am I 'way-off-base'?

A US 3-prong, 250 volt (for 208V or 240V service), grounding NEMA 6 appliance plug would not have provisions for a 120 volts. The prongs would be L1, L2 and Ground, no neutral.

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Go to Amporn & buy a transformer.

Sorry. Thought you meant Hair dryer.

Clothes dryer is a different animal.

Right there at Central & the Mall group they sell Whirlpool washers& dryers.

Why in hell would anyone import same?

They used to sell GE & Maytag washer dryers too.

GE have Indian made motors that are junk.

Edited by powderpuff
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The US 3-prong 125/250 volt non-grounding NEMA 10 appliance plug was made obsolete about 15 years ago. It had L1, L2 and Neutral prongs, equipment frame was usually connected to the grounded neutral. Large appliances now days use a 4-prong NEMA 14 plug if they need 120/240 volts, L1, L2, Neutral and Ground.

Edited by InterestedObserver
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Go to Amporn & buy a transformer.

Sorry. Thought you meant Hair dryer.

Clothes dryer is a different animal.

Right there at Central & the Mall group they sell Whirlpool washers& dryers.

Why in hell would anyone import same?

They used to sell GE & Maytag washer dryers too.

"GE have Indian made motors that are junk".

Thanks for that info!! Through the conversation with the neighbor, I may be able to own a brand new (USD $1450.00 top-of-the-line) American GE Profile 7.5 Steam dryer if it's possible to get it running here in LOS. I already have an adequate size converter. I am also looking at this 'How-to-connect' as a challenge.....

Though it boils down to a matter of personal preference, I am one of those with the frame of mind: "Sahk 'n Sai" - Wash (it) and Wear (it).....not: Wash (it), having to wait for it to dry before being able to Wear it.....especially during those many long humid rainy days, makes it that much more convenient.

I had been pricing dryers and was about to buy one here even though they are comparatively over-priced for their capacity and features. In spite of 3 c/o 'being noisy', CR gives this model a rather high rating.

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The US 3-prong 125/250 volt non-grounding NEMA 10 appliance plug was made obsolete about 15 years ago. It had L1, L2 and Neutral prongs, equipment frame was usually connected to the grounded neutral. Large appliances now days use a 4-prong NEMA 14 plug if they need 120/240 volts, L1, L2, Neutral and Ground.

I was told that in the above picture, (left), is of the 'newer'(?) style 3-prong plugs that replaced those 'older' style 3-prong plugs that I believe(?) you are referring to.

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Export versions of white goods are indeed available in the US but normally at premium prices from major cities (at least that was the case when I last checked many moons ago). The normal US appliance will be made as cheaply as possible and the analog clocking is likely to be AC driven and run slow in my last experience. DC motors have always been more expensive to make. But I have not checked US goods for years so perhaps that has changed - but I would not count on it.

The units can be run here with rewire and transformers if not export versions. US Embassy used to have sales of used models from there housing every few years. But the question becomes will the cost savings (if any) outweigh the added operation costs of transformer and special service with no guarantee?

As for dryers most people only use a couple days a year here as the sun does the job.

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I was told that in the above picture, (left), is of the 'newer'(?) style 3-prong plugs that replaced those 'older' style 3-prong plugs that I believe(?) you are referring to.

The left picture is a NEMA-20 or NEMA-50 and as mentioned has been replaced with the newer NEMA-14 to allow for a true ground wire. The NEMA-20/50 are still common though for washers/dryers in the US.

NEMA Plug & Receptacles

NEMA Connectors - Wiki

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Thanks for that info!! Through the conversation with the neighbor, I may be able to own a brand new (USD $1450.00 top-of-the-line) American GE Profile 7.5 Steam dryer if it's possible to get it running here in LOS. I already have an adequate size converter. I am also looking at this 'How-to-connect' as a challenge.....

Though it boils down to a matter of personal preference, I am one of those with the frame of mind: "Sahk 'n Sai" - Wash (it) and Wear (it).....not: Wash (it), having to wait for it to dry before being able to Wear it.....especially during those many long humid rainy days, makes it that much more convenient.

I had been pricing dryers and was about to buy one here even though they are comparatively over-priced for their capacity and features. In spite of 3 c/o 'being noisy', CR gives this model a rather high rating.

A US made Whirlpool Clothes Dryer will run you about $700.00 & comes with a warranty. (& free delivery) . Make sure you have a heavy duty circuit for it.

Edited by powderpuff
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The US 3-prong 125/250 volt non-grounding NEMA 10 appliance plug was made obsolete about 15 years ago. It had L1, L2 and Neutral prongs, equipment frame was usually connected to the grounded neutral. Large appliances now days use a 4-prong NEMA 14 plug if they need 120/240 volts, L1, L2, Neutral and Ground.

I was told that in the above picture, (left), is of the 'newer'(?) style 3-prong plugs that replaced those 'older' style 3-prong plugs that I believe(?) you are referring to.

The appliance plug pictured on the right would meet current National Electrical Code (NEC) regulations because it has a dedicated ground prong. The picture on the left does not have a dedicated ground prong, thus is not NEC compliant regarding equipment grounding. Pictures with post #7.

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I was told that in the above picture, (left), is of the 'newer'(?) style 3-prong plugs that replaced those 'older' style 3-prong plugs that I believe(?) you are referring to.

The left picture is a NEMA-20 or NEMA-50 and as mentioned has been replaced with the newer NEMA-14 to allow for a true ground wire. The NEMA-20/50 are still common though for washers/dryers in the US.

NEMA Plug & Receptacles

NEMA Connectors - Wiki

I believe that's correct.

A photo from this particular dryer's wiring diagram of its (3-prong) connector hookup apparently shows the plug to be a NEMA 10-30. The 'ground' seems to be a metal strip from the wiring input area to the chassis There is also provision for a 4-prong plug connection.....a NEMA 14-30 connector.

Thanks for that info!! Through the conversation with the neighbor, I may be able to own a brand new (USD $1450.00 top-of-the-line) American GE Profile 7.5 Steam dryer if it's possible to get it running here in LOS. I already have an adequate size converter. I am also looking at this 'How-to-connect' as a challenge.....

Though it boils down to a matter of personal preference, I am one of those with the frame of mind: "Sahk 'n Sai" - Wash (it) and Wear (it).....not: Wash (it), having to wait for it to dry before being able to Wear it.....especially during those many long humid rainy days, makes it that much more convenient.

I had been pricing dryers and was about to buy one here even though they are comparatively over-priced for their capacity and features. In spite of 3 c/o 'being noisy', CR gives this model a rather high rating.

A US made Whirlpool Clothes Dryer will run you about $700.00 & comes with a warranty. (& free delivery) . Make sure you have a heavy duty circuit for it.

......I was about to buy a dryer that was 'on sale' before that discussion with my neighbor. I hope I can get the American dryer running, and post my results for others, if not.....I'll have to buy one here.

GE Profile 7_5 cu ft Dryer 4-prong Wiring Diagram.bmp

GE Profile 7.5 cu ft Dryer 3-prong wiring Diagram.bmp

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The units can be run here with rewire and transformers if not export versions. US Embassy used to have sales of used models from there housing every few years. But the question becomes will the cost savings (if any) outweigh the added operation costs of transformer and special service with no guarantee?

That sure sounds like just the solution I have been hoping for!! I believe I have the proper transformer....it's the rewiring procedure that I need...do you know how I can get information about this or exactly where I can get this done?

As for dryers most people only use a couple days a year here as the sun does the job.

....believe me, I will use my dryer with each load of clothes that I wash.

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I must have missed something here on this topic?

Why would someone go through all these motions to re-wire a dryer made to be used in the USA just to dry clothes here?

A decent dryer can be bought here that will carry a local guarantee and no hassles with any possible wiring issues

I really am missing the point here. I don't believe the units made in the US are any better than the ones available here. And once you have some local "expert" re-wire the machine god only knows what you have.

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I must have missed something here on this topic?

Why would someone go through all these motions to re-wire a dryer made to be used in the USA just to dry clothes here?

A decent dryer can be bought here that will carry a local guarantee and no hassles with any possible wiring issues

I really am missing the point here. I don't believe the units made in the US are any better than the ones available here. And once you have some local "expert" re-wire the machine god only knows what you have.

I know, I know.......on the face of it you would be right, but, like the guy who takes it on his self to rebuild a '72 Cuda, etc., I am taking this on as a challenge plus I don't mind doing a little 'work' to get a newer, top-of-the-line, extra large capacity, with all the bells and whistles dryer (that would be absurdly priced here in LOS) to operational status. Also, I already have a (hopefully) adequate transformer, so if I can learn what needs to be rewired (or where to go to have it done), I will have the satisfaction of having made a nice dryer operational at far less than the cost of a store bought one, Plus, I hope I can post any steps so others would know that it's possible to make their 220v/60Hz appliance operational.

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I drew up a possible plug & play solution shown below. Essentially it is a pseudo split phase configuration using 2 step down transformers. The main problem may be the size of the step down transformers and cost and it won't solve the 60/50 Hz issue.

post-566-0-90885400-1291438714_thumb.jpg

Also, if you can find the schematic of the make and model of the machine and post here we can come up with the modifications that will require only one step down transformer.

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<br />I drew up a possible plug & play solution shown below.  Essentially it is a pseudo split phase configuration using 2 step down transformers.  The main problem may be the size of the step down transformers and cost and it won't solve the 60/50 Hz issue.<br /><br />post-566-0-90885400-1291438714_thumb.jpg<br /><br />Also, if you can find the schematic of the make and model of the machine and post here we can come up with the modifications that will require only one step down transformer.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Th-a-a-a-a-ank you!

I will research for the schematic of this dryer and post it promptly.

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Most small motors will run on 50Hz but slow and may overheat but are not likely to burn out.

A split phase induction motor will overheat and burn out.

However a 60Hz induction motor can be run if the supply voltage is reduced to 0.833 x 220V, ie to 180V at 50Hz.

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I drew up a possible plug & play solution shown below. Essentially it is a pseudo split phase configuration using 2 step down transformers. The main problem may be the size of the step down transformers and cost and it won't solve the 60/50 Hz issue.

post-566-0-90885400-1291438714_thumb.jpg

Also, if you can find the schematic of the make and model of the machine and post here we can come up with the modifications that will require only one step down transformer.

.

I just received a copy of the schematic of this electric dryer (Thanks for the help from 'Across the Pond')......I hope this helps.

The dryer's specs are: 120/240 Volts - 60 Hz - 5600Watts - 24 Amps

Even with a 'workaround', how exactly would the '220' side of the dryer be wired and connected(?).........via Thai male plug to the 220V Thai outlet?

GE DPVH890EJ0MG Electric Dryer - Wiring Diagram.pdf

GE DPVH890EJ0MG Electric Dryer - Troubleshooting Guide.pdf

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Most small motors will run on 50Hz but slow and may overheat but are not likely to burn out.

A split phase induction motor will overheat and burn out.

However a 60Hz induction motor can be run if the supply voltage is reduced to 0.833 x 220V, ie to 180V at 50Hz.

Believe we are talking about 110V motors in the dryer and the 230 volts only being used for the heater from what was stated above.

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Most small motors will run on 50Hz but slow and may overheat but are not likely to burn out.

A split phase induction motor will overheat and burn out.

However a 60Hz induction motor can be run if the supply voltage is reduced to 0.833 x 220V, ie to 180V at 50Hz.

Believe we are talking about 110V motors in the dryer and the 230 volts only being used for the heater from what was stated above.

110/120V 60Hz . you might get away with a 220/100V 50Hz transformer for the drive motor and use the 220V 50Hz supply for the heaters.

You may have problems with the voltages for the electronics.

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