I am curious to learn whether anyone has installed a Diesel Performance Chip in their Mu-7 (Gold, Platinum or Titanium) 3.0 Ddi VGS model engines and if so, what was the part number of the kit and their performance results.

Theres loooooads of info on my topic ' Cheap diesel performance '. Take a look.

......it's your site that peeked my interest in the first place!

Here, I am trying to gather together only the owners of this MU-7 engine model who have installed a Diesel Engine Performance Chip, their analysis of their engine's performance after the installation and the brand / model of their installation kits.

I'd like to know too. It would be nice to hear how these perform in the Mu-7 before putting out the big bucks to buy one of the many performance chips... I do like the power of my Mu-7 already but it is a little hesitant right off the line, otherwise I am quite happy with the performance and fuel consumption.

Mu7 and Dmax was for years detuned with VGS engine and auto, due to autos lack of ability to handle the VGS tourque, just check the hp/tourque spec for manual and auto. Tuning it wont make auto feel better

I'd like to know too. It would be nice to hear how these perform in the Mu-7 before putting out the big bucks to buy one of the many performance chips... I do like the power of my Mu-7 already but it is a little hesitant right off the line, otherwise I am quite happy with the performance and fuel consumption.

That's exactly where I am at: Trying to determine all the Pros and Cons of installing a Diesel Performance Chip on this model engine (and if they even make a chip for this particular engine!)!

Mu7 and Dmax was for years detuned with VGS engine and auto, due to autos lack of ability to handle the VGS tourque

....just check the hp / tourque spec for manual and auto.

Tuning it wont make auto feel better

...ahhh, the first 'Engine Expert'! Hey K-Beachbum, can I ask a few basic questions that would help those of us 'newbies' who are trying to get a better understanding of the technical workings of our cars?

Does 'Detuned' (in the case of this engine) mean its (Hp) power has been reduced (by the mfgr)? What is this significant when compared to the Fortuner and Pajero 4x4 (auto) engines?

In theory, would installing a Diesel Performance Chip mean: Adding more power at the (proportional) expense of fuel economy? Adding more power means more 'stress' on engine components and thus a proportionately shorter engine life due to those 'stressed components' wearing out sooner?

....163 Hp/333 Nm torque - (as a newbie), we just see numbers, would you explain how we should be able to read that this engine is detuned?

By 'tuning' do you mean 'installing a Diesel Performance Chip' or trying to adjust the mfgr engine settings?

...ahhh, the first 'Engine Expert'! Hey K-Beachbum, can I ask a few basic questions that would help those of us 'newbies' who are trying to get a better understanding of the technical workings of our cars?

Does 'Detuned' (in the case of this engine) mean its (Hp) power has been reduced (by the mfgr)? What is this significant when compared to the Fortuner and Pajero 4x4 (auto) engines?

In theory, would installing a Diesel Performance Chip mean: Adding more power at the (proportional) expense of fuel economy? Adding more power means more 'stress' on engine components and thus a proportionately shorter engine life due to those 'stressed components' wearing out sooner?

....163 Hp/333 Nm torque - (as a newbie), we just see numbers, would you explain how we should be able to read that this engine is detuned?

By 'tuning' do you mean 'installing a Diesel Performance Chip' or trying to adjust the mfgr engine settings?

I can answer some of these.. I'll let Kata respond to the Isuzu-specific bits though

Auto gearboxes to handle the kind of torque these Thai pickups/PPV's can put out are expensive (expensive enough to price you out of the market), so rather than spend more money on the AT, manufacturers opt to control the amount of torque the engine develops. For example, the Pajero Sport 2.5L in Thailand makes 144HP/321Nm and comes with a 4-speed auto. The Japanese built version of it has two different power outputs: 178HP/400Nm for manual transmission models, or 178HP/350Nm with a (better) 5-speed auto - a clear case of detuning the engine to suit the gearbox. Also note that the Japanese model makes more HP and torque from the same engine - that's because the Thai model is detuned to (primarily) to suit the lower quality diesel on sale in Thailand (Euro III vs Euro IV).

Making more HP and using it definitely will result in lower fuel economy, but so long as you're not going overboard on the tune it's quite possible to improve fuel economy too - it all depends on how you use the throttle. It's not proportional at all - with a mild tune (say +20-30%), at lower throttle openings you'll make more power with less fuel, at higher throttle openings you'll make more power with substantially more fuel used. If you were to drive the same speed as before, you should use less fuel overall - but that's kinda hard to do too

Note that I have installed on piggyback on a lower model 2.5L Isuzu pickup (116HP/280Nm) and while it definitely made a difference, because it's all percentages it wasn't enough to make you say 'wow'. The 3.0L is a different beast though - adding 20-30% to it will make a very noticeable difference.

I can answer some of these.. I'll let Kata respond to the Isuzu-specific bits though

Auto gearboxes to handle the kind of torque these Thai pickups/PPV's can put out are expensive (expensive enough to price you out of the market), so rather than spend more money on the AT, manufacturers opt to control the amount of torque the engine develops. For example, the Pajero Sport 2.5L in Thailand makes 144HP/321Nm and comes with a 4-speed auto. The Japanese built version of it has two different power outputs: 178HP/400Nm for manual transmission models, or 178HP/350Nm with a (better) 5-speed auto - a clear case of detuning the engine to suit the gearbox. Also note that the Japanese model makes more HP and torque from the same engine - that's because the Thai model is detuned to (primarily) to suit the lower quality diesel on sale in Thailand (Euro III vs Euro IV).

Making more HP and using it definitely will result in lower fuel economy, but so long as you're not going overboard on the tune it's quite possible to improve fuel economy too - it all depends on how you use the throttle. It's not proportional at all - with a mild tune (say +20-30%), at lower throttle openings you'll make more power with less fuel, at higher throttle openings you'll make more power with substantially more fuel used. If you were to drive the same speed as before, you should use less fuel overall - but that's kinda hard to do too

Note that I have installed on piggyback on a lower model 2.5L Isuzu pickup (116HP/280Nm) and while it definitely made a difference, because it's all percentages it wasn't enough to make you say 'wow'. The 3.0L is a different beast though - adding 20-30% to it will make a very noticeable difference.

s

Th-a -a-a-ank you for that 'Thai Automotive Poli-Eco-Mechanics 101' lesson! I'm sure this helps others as it has me to better understand what's going on.

I understood from reading TransAm's topic why installing the piggyback on Isuzu 2.5L didn't show any 'noticeable' performance increase but I will be curious to see if the same percentage performance-increase can be realized in the MU-7's Ddi VGS3.0L engine as well as any difference in performance between the different Diesel Chips when installed on this engine.

...ahhh, the first 'Engine Expert'! Hey K-Beachbum, can I ask a few basic questions that would help those of us 'newbies' who are trying to get a better understanding of the technical workings of our cars?

Does 'Detuned' (in the case of this engine) mean its (Hp) power has been reduced (by the mfgr)? What is this significant when compared to the Fortuner and Pajero 4x4 (auto) engines?

In theory, would installing a Diesel Performance Chip mean: Adding more power at the (proportional) expense of fuel economy? Adding more power means more 'stress' on engine components and thus a proportionately shorter engine life due to those 'stressed components' wearing out sooner?

....163 Hp/333 Nm torque - (as a newbie), we just see numbers, would you explain how we should be able to read that this engine is detuned?

By 'tuning' do you mean 'installing a Diesel Performance Chip' or trying to adjust the mfgr engine settings?

I can answer some of these.. I'll let Kata respond to the Isuzu-specific bits though

Auto gearboxes to handle the kind of torque these Thai pickups/PPV's can put out are expensive (expensive enough to price you out of the market), so rather than spend more money on the AT, manufacturers opt to control the amount of torque the engine develops. For example, the Pajero Sport 2.5L in Thailand makes 144HP/321Nm and comes with a 4-speed auto. The Japanese built version of it has two different power outputs: 178HP/400Nm for manual transmission models, or 178HP/350Nm with a (better) 5-speed auto - a clear case of detuning the engine to suit the gearbox. Also note that the Japanese model makes more HP and torque from the same engine - that's because the Thai model is detuned to (primarily) to suit the lower quality diesel on sale in Thailand (Euro III vs Euro IV).

Making more HP and using it definitely will result in lower fuel economy, but so long as you're not going overboard on the tune it's quite possible to improve fuel economy too - it all depends on how you use the throttle. It's not proportional at all - with a mild tune (say +20-30%), at lower throttle openings you'll make more power with less fuel, at higher throttle openings you'll make more power with substantially more fuel used. If you were to drive the same speed as before, you should use less fuel overall - but that's kinda hard to do too

Note that I have installed on piggyback on a lower model 2.5L Isuzu pickup (116HP/280Nm) and while it definitely made a difference, because it's all percentages it wasn't enough to make you say 'wow'. The 3.0L is a different beast though - adding 20-30% to it will make a very noticeable difference.

so true

every gearbox, manual or auto, has a limit on how much power it can handle. it is less expensive for the car manufactorer to reduce engines power (detune by programming ECU computer), than to choose a more expensive gearbox able to handle more power.

I would assume Izus gearbox can handle more power simply by adding better auto oil cooling. as a 3,0 VGS owner I would take the risk, I love power . I would increase auto oil cooling by adding oil to air cooler(s) prefereable in front of the other radiators, and a simple pressure chips to increase power with 20-25%. Auto oil is to be replaced every 40k km. If it smells burned at 20k km, replace it.

With sufficient cooling, the use of gained power increase will determine the lifetime of auto trans. Never full thottle in 1st gear, easy around town, and enjoy more power on overtakings and highspeed driving

chipstuning can be done in several ways,

reprogramme ECU, car must be brought to a tuner

replace parts/chips in ECU, car must be brought to a tuner

ad a box to ECUs cables/engine, very simple DIY, inexpensive

at 120 kmh constant speed, a chips tuned commonrail diesel will normally consume less fuel than the stock engine

I can answer some of these.. I'll let Kata respond to the Isuzu-specific bits though

Auto gearboxes to handle the kind of torque these Thai pickups/PPV's can put out are expensive (expensive enough to price you out of the market), so rather than spend more money on the AT, manufacturers opt to control the amount of torque the engine develops. For example, the Pajero Sport 2.5L in Thailand makes 144HP/321Nm and comes with a 4-speed auto. The Japanese built version of it has two different power outputs: 178HP/400Nm for manual transmission models, or 178HP/350Nm with a (better) 5-speed auto - a clear case of detuning the engine to suit the gearbox. Also note that the Japanese model makes more HP and torque from the same engine - that's because the Thai model is detuned to (primarily) to suit the lower quality diesel on sale in Thailand (Euro III vs Euro IV).

Making more HP and using it definitely will result in lower fuel economy, but so long as you're not going overboard on the tune it's quite possible to improve fuel economy too - it all depends on how you use the throttle. It's not proportional at all - with a mild tune (say +20-30%), at lower throttle openings you'll make more power with less fuel, at higher throttle openings you'll make more power with substantially more fuel used. If you were to drive the same speed as before, you should use less fuel overall - but that's kinda hard to do too

Note that I have installed on piggyback on a lower model 2.5L Isuzu pickup (116HP/280Nm) and while it definitely made a difference, because it's all percentages it wasn't enough to make you say 'wow'. The 3.0L is a different beast though - adding 20-30% to it will make a very noticeable difference.

so true

every gearbox, manual or auto, has a limit on how much power it can handle. it is less expensive for the car manufactorer to reduce engines power (detune by programming ECU computer), than to choose a more expensive gearbox able to handle more power.

I would assume Izus gearbox can handle more power simply by adding better auto oil cooling. as a 3,0 VGS owner I would take the risk, I love power . I would increase auto oil cooling by adding oil to air cooler(s) prefereable in front of the other radiators, and a simple pressure chips to increase power with 20-25%. Auto oil is to be replaced every 40k km. If it smells burned at 20k km, replace it.

With sufficient cooling, the use of gained power increase will determine the lifetime of auto trans. Never full thottle in 1st gear, easy around town, and enjoy more power on overtakings and highspeed driving

chipstuning can be done in several ways,

reprogramme ECU, car must be brought to a tuner

replace parts/chips in ECU, car must be brought to a tuner

ad a box to ECUs cables/engine, very simple DIY, inexpensive

at 120 kmh constant speed, a chips tuned commonrail diesel will normally consume less fuel than the stock engine

I thank you for the helpful insight!

It's also good to hear you are a 'Need for Speed' and proud owner of a 3.0 VGS (MU-7?).

What modifications have you done to your car? What model and size oil cooler?

Do you have first-hand experience with Diesel Performance Chips on this engine? Which DIY Diesel Performance Chip do you recommend?

Thailoht. Might be useful to know where you live.

My friend philipm is a tuner & could supply a remote trans oil cooler. Plus everything else to boot.

I can answer some of these.. I'll let Kata respond to the Isuzu-specific bits though

Auto gearboxes to handle the kind of torque these Thai pickups/PPV's can put out are expensive (expensive enough to price you out of the market), so rather than spend more money on the AT, manufacturers opt to control the amount of torque the engine develops. For example, the Pajero Sport 2.5L in Thailand makes 144HP/321Nm and comes with a 4-speed auto. The Japanese built version of it has two different power outputs: 178HP/400Nm for manual transmission models, or 178HP/350Nm with a (better) 5-speed auto - a clear case of detuning the engine to suit the gearbox. Also note that the Japanese model makes more HP and torque from the same engine - that's because the Thai model is detuned to (primarily) to suit the lower quality diesel on sale in Thailand (Euro III vs Euro IV).

Making more HP and using it definitely will result in lower fuel economy, but so long as you're not going overboard on the tune it's quite possible to improve fuel economy too - it all depends on how you use the throttle. It's not proportional at all - with a mild tune (say +20-30%), at lower throttle openings you'll make more power with less fuel, at higher throttle openings you'll make more power with substantially more fuel used. If you were to drive the same speed as before, you should use less fuel overall - but that's kinda hard to do too

Note that I have installed on piggyback on a lower model 2.5L Isuzu pickup (116HP/280Nm) and while it definitely made a difference, because it's all percentages it wasn't enough to make you say 'wow'. The 3.0L is a different beast though - adding 20-30% to it will make a very noticeable difference.

so true

every gearbox, manual or auto, has a limit on how much power it can handle. it is less expensive for the car manufactorer to reduce engines power (detune by programming ECU computer), than to choose a more expensive gearbox able to handle more power.

I would assume Izus gearbox can handle more power simply by adding better auto oil cooling. as a 3,0 VGS owner I would take the risk, I love power . I would increase auto oil cooling by adding oil to air cooler(s) prefereable in front of the other radiators, and a simple pressure chips to increase power with 20-25%. Auto oil is to be replaced every 40k km. If it smells burned at 20k km, replace it.

With sufficient cooling, the use of gained power increase will determine the lifetime of auto trans. Never full thottle in 1st gear, easy around town, and enjoy more power on overtakings and highspeed driving

chipstuning can be done in several ways,

reprogramme ECU, car must be brought to a tuner

replace parts/chips in ECU, car must be brought to a tuner

ad a box to ECUs cables/engine, very simple DIY, inexpensive

at 120 kmh constant speed, a chips tuned commonrail diesel will normally consume less fuel than the stock engine

I thank you for the helpful insight!

It's also good to hear you are a 'Need for Speed' and proud owner of a 3.0 VGS (MU-7?).

What modifications have you done to your car? What model and size oil cooler?

Do you have first-hand experience with Diesel Performance Chips on this engine? Which DIY Diesel Performance Chip do you recommend?

I am not an Izu owner, and have limited knowledge of its tuning potential.

I would use the inexpensive german pressure chips discussed in transams thread, or contact member philipm if you want more power.

any auto oil/air cooler will do, the larger the more efficient. I believe if your auto has an oil cooler at all, its in the radiator and thus not efficient. Should be separate oil to air cooling like used on Vigo/Fortuner

Thailoht. Might be useful to know where you live.

My friend philipm is a tuner & could supply a remote trans oil cooler. Plus everything else to boot.

I hangout between BKK & Pattaya a lot but 'Have Car Will (do) Travel' is my motto.....I will drive to wherever is necessary!

I have read Phillipm in a couple other topics.....his is one of the two or three Diesel Performance Chips to compare stats, customer reviews and price in order to make a more informed choice.

Can you ask him to post his statistics and chip model for this engine?

(If all happens to work out with Phillipm [and not so with that electrical dryer], maybe I can get some dryer model buying tips while the car is getting worked on!)

I purchased a racechip from Germany early this week I already received it today. I made sure to clarify with the tec dept. that it would work on my MU-7 3litre VGS TURBO before my order was shipped they stated "it will work". I looked under the hood for the common rail but ??? Anyways in the instruction booklet it says to e-mail them your type of car and they would forward pics which show exactly where your connection would be so I did this...they returned my e-mail asking for pictures of my engine compartment and this is the -email returned after they received pics:

Enclosed a marked picture.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">Please look in our installation guide, there must be a common rail in the<br style="line-height: 17px; ">marked are.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">But it seems like that you do not have an common-rail engine.Although they did mark one of the pics it is of no use as there is NOT a common rail there then they say it appears I do not have a common rail engine ?? Can anyone help ?? If this plug is in an area that is really difficult to get to it will be of no use as it needs to be removed every 5,000 km for warranty servicing

I purchased a racechip from Germany early this week I already received it today. I made sure to clarify with the tec dept. that it would work on my MU-7 3litre VGS TURBO before my order was shipped they stated "it will work". I looked under the hood for the common rail but ??? Anyways in the instruction booklet it says to e-mail them your type of car and they would forward pics which show exactly where your connection would be so I did this...they returned my e-mail asking for pictures of my engine compartment and this is the -email returned after they received pics:

Enclosed a marked picture.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">Please look in our installation guide, there must be a common rail in the<br style="line-height: 17px; ">marked are.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">But it seems like that you do not have an common-rail engine.Although they did mark one of the pics it is of no use as there is NOT a common rail there then they say it appears I do not have a common rail engine ?? Can anyone help ?? If this plug is in an area that is really difficult to get to it will be of no use as it needs to be removed every 5,000 km for warranty servicing

I had been 'leaning' (no pun intended') towards buying this brand before posting this topic but then I realized that I had not read of any other MU-7 owners posting the use of a Diesel Performance Chip and wanted some feedback.

According to the brochure and other posters, this engine uses common rail technology. If the chip retailer has to ask 'you' the customer, I suspect they don't make a chip with the connectors for the engine and / or (my speculation) don't make a chip for this engine because of some inherent mechanical deterrence from the mfgr?

Do you have a Gold, Platinum or Titanium model?

Super Platinum Activo

I purchased a racechip from Germany early this week I already received it today. I made sure to clarify with the tec dept. that it would work on my MU-7 3litre VGS TURBO before my order was shipped they stated "it will work". I looked under the hood for the common rail but ??? Anyways in the instruction booklet it says to e-mail them your type of car and they would forward pics which show exactly where your connection would be so I did this...they returned my e-mail asking for pictures of my engine compartment and this is the -email returned after they received pics:

Enclosed a marked picture.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">Please look in our installation guide, there must be a common rail in the<br style="line-height: 17px; ">marked are.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">But it seems like that you do not have an common-rail engine.Although they did mark one of the pics it is of no use as there is NOT a common rail there then they say it appears I do not have a common rail engine ?? Can anyone help ?? If this plug is in an area that is really difficult to get to it will be of no use as it needs to be removed every 5,000 km for warranty servicing

I had been 'leaning' (no pun intended') towards buying this brand before posting this topic but then I realized that I had not read of any other MU-7 owners posting the use of a Diesel Performance Chip and wanted some feedback.

According to the brochure and other posters, this engine uses common rail technology. If the chip retailer has to ask 'you' the customer, I suspect they don't make a chip with the connectors for the engine and / or (my speculation) don't make a chip for this engine because of some inherent mechanical deterrence from the mfgr?

Do you have a Gold, Platinum or Titanium model?

Super Platinum Activo

I purchased a racechip from Germany early this week I already received it today. I made sure to clarify with the tec dept. that it would work on my MU-7 3litre VGS TURBO before my order was shipped they stated "it will work". I looked under the hood for the common rail but ??? Anyways in the instruction booklet it says to e-mail them your type of car and they would forward pics which show exactly where your connection would be so I did this...they returned my e-mail asking for pictures of my engine compartment and this is the -email returned after they received pics:

Enclosed a marked picture.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">Please look in our installation guide, there must be a common rail in the<br style="line-height: 17px; ">marked are.<br style="line-height: 17px; ">But it seems like that you do not have an common-rail engine.Although they did mark one of the pics it is of no use as there is NOT a common rail there then they say it appears I do not have a common rail engine ?? Can anyone help ?? If this plug is in an area that is really difficult to get to it will be of no use as it needs to be removed every 5,000 km for warranty servicing

Before posting this topic, I had been 'leaning' (no pun intended') towards buying this brand but then I realized that I had not read of any other MU-7 owners posting the use of a Diesel Performance Chip and wanted some feedback.

According to the brochure and other posters, this engine uses common rail technology. If the chip retailer has to ask 'you' the customer, I suspect they don't make a chip with the connectors for the engine and / or (my speculation) don't make a chip for this engine because of some inherent mechanical deterrence from the mfgr?

Do you have a Gold, Platinum or Titanium model?

Yes!....The car! (As a note: Have you ever driven a [diesel] Fortuner? How would you compare the 'rides' of these two SUVs?)

So what's your next step with this chip? Hopefully, the auto wizards in this forum, Phillipm, Transam, MO Rivers, Katabeachbum and others will lend their expertise......At the very least, they should be able to direct you to and point out where (if) the connection port is...

Hello, yes I have driven a gas powered fortuner a few years ago so I really couldn't compare. We went to the auto show last spring with the intention of buying a fortuner....luckily I took the time to compare and for me the MU-7 won, the room inside is great the wife loves the space in the back seat and on long trips she can watch a movie she uses the wireless headphones so I can still listen to music. It really does have lots of power but if I can get more...why not, that is why I purchased the racechip. Its also good on fuel and a comfortable ride. I don't know what I will do with the chip now...maybe send it back and dispute the charges or keep it and sell it at a loss...but who knows maybe it will work.

Your engine definitely has a commonrail injection system, it's just a matter of finding it..

I don't have a 3.0L Isuzu engine handy to look at / take photos of at the moment, but these pictures should help:

What you're looking for is a cast "pipe" around 20mm in diameter and roughly 30-40cm long with fuel lines in and out of it. The connector you need to find is at the rear-end of this pipe, so close to the firewall end of the engine bay - it's at the far back of the engine and about 1/3rd the way down, on the right-hand side (looking from the front as per picture #2).

Referencing the pictures above, the 4 black fuel lines you see are what you need to look for - they run from the injectors (top of the engine) down to the commonrail (right side of the engine). Find them and you'll find the commonrail..

Gents,

your engine is defentially a commonrail engine,

race-chip along with numerous other brands tend to promote the y-socket plug,

which replaces/bypass the original commonrail line connector plug.

underneath the throttle body area, you will find the common-rail line, (to identify it, you will see 4 seprate metal connections that feed from pump to injector) at the end of the commonrail you will find a socket plug, remove the socket, and bypass it with the chips (y-socket plug). simple.

as i keep menationing, dont buy a chip that claims to be universal, as each ecu parameter and signals are different, and what might work Well for an one application, wont have the same benefit as with another application.

spend your money once, and do it the right way. no doubt you will gain the best performance comparatively.

'

Gents,

your engine is defentially a commonrail engine,

race-chip along with numerous other brands tend to promote the y-socket plug,

which replaces/bypass the original commonrail line connector plug.

underneath the throttle body area, you will find the common-rail line, (to identify it, you will see 4 seprate metal connections that feed from pump to injector) at the end of the commonrail you will find a socket plug, remove the socket, and bypass it with the chips (y-socket plug). simple.

as i keep menationing, dont buy a chip that claims to be universal, as each ecu parameter and signals are different, and what might work Well for an one application, wont have the same benefit as with another application.

spend your money once, and do it the right way. no doubt you will gain the best performance comparatively.

I

'

think I might have found the connection...would it be possible that it is in the middle of the common rail and not on the end as there is a connection with the same 3 prong connection ?? I did hook it up to the cables and it fit...on the test piece the light stayed on and did not blink...I could've had a loose wire as it is pretty tight where the hook-up is and they don't leave any extra wire on the cable you need to disconnect...I did not hook up the box yet as I do not want to damage anything, does the light have to be blinking ??

think I might have found the connection...would it be possible that it is in the middle of the common rail and not on the end as there is a connection with the same 3 prong connection ?? I did hook it up to the cables and it fit...on the test piece the light stayed on and did not blink...I could've had a loose wire as it is pretty tight where the hook-up is and they don't leave any extra wire on the cable you need to disconnect...I did not hook up the box yet as I do not want to damage anything, does the light have to be blinking ??

You've found it - the word "flashing" in the English manual is a bad translation from German - it should read "illuminated". Go plug in the box and tell us how it goes

Gents,

your engine is defentially a commonrail engine,

race-chip along with numerous other brands tend to promote the y-socket plug,

which replaces/bypass the original commonrail line connector plug.

underneath the throttle body area, you will find the common-rail line, (to identify it, you will see 4 seprate metal connections that feed from pump to injector) at the end of the commonrail you will find a socket plug, remove the socket, and bypass it with the chips (y-socket plug). simple.

as i keep mentioning, don't buy a chip that claims to be universal, as each ecu parameter and signals are different, and what might work Well for an one application, wont have the same benefit as with another application.

spend your money once, and do it the right way. no doubt you will gain the best performance comparatively.

think I might have found the connection...would it be possible that it is in the middle of the common rail and not on the end as there is a connection with the same 3 prong connection ?? I did hook it up to the cables and it fit...on the test piece the light stayed on and did not blink...I could've had a loose wire as it is pretty tight where the hook-up is and they don't leave any extra wire on the cable you need to disconnect...I did not hook up the box yet as I do not want to damage anything, does the light have to be blinking ??

Cool! I was hoping that once the automotive 'Heavy Weights' weighed in that you would get some results......am anticipating you posting your results!!

Phillipm, TransAm and MRO: Can you post any of your experiences with the results from Diesel Performance-Boost Chip installations in this engine?

We got stuck in traffic on the way home today so it was almost 2 hours getting home....thank god for the DVD player and lots of stretching out room, it made the time sitting in traffic much easier, but anyways I'm burnt out tonight but will hook it up tomorrow morning....the engine will not be hot either...I hope the difference is noticeable !!!

Gents,

your engine is defentially a commonrail engine,

race-chip along with numerous other brands tend to promote the y-socket plug,

which replaces/bypass the original commonrail line connector plug.

underneath the throttle body area, you will find the common-rail line, (to identify it, you will see 4 seprate metal connections that feed from pump to injector) at the end of the commonrail you will find a socket plug, remove the socket, and bypass it with the chips (y-socket plug). simple.

as i keep mentioning, don't buy a chip that claims to be universal, as each ecu parameter and signals are different, and what might work Well for an one application, wont have the same benefit as with another application.

spend your money once, and do it the right way. no doubt you will gain the best performance comparatively.

think I might have found the connection...would it be possible that it is in the middle of the common rail and not on the end as there is a connection with the same 3 prong connection ?? I did hook it up to the cables and it fit...on the test piece the light stayed on and did not blink...I could've had a loose wire as it is pretty tight where the hook-up is and they don't leave any extra wire on the cable you need to disconnect...I did not hook up the box yet as I do not want to damage anything, does the light have to be blinking ??

Cool! I was hoping that once the automotive 'Heavy Weights' weighed in that you would get some results......am anticipating you posting your results!!

Phillipm, TransAm and MRO: Can you post any of your experiences with the results from Diesel Performance-Boost Chip installations in this engine?

With the race chip, it really is a cheap hop up but it works. If you want to go down the big money route then there is better. You can internally adjust the chip with 2 dials which l have done extensively but had engine noise increase and one engine shut down so l have come back to the factory setting which is OK. You will feel the difference for sure.

OK some will not want to tinker but l think everyone must, just to find that optimum setting. Only takes 2 minutes to adjust so no real problem. As has been stated elsewhere, if the chip fits all then l am sure tinkering is needed. My chip from factory had the wrong settings for my ride so you at least must check inside that the dials are set correctly.

Yes I had to go shopping to find a torx #10 to open the unit...I will see how it runs as it is set from factory ?? Then I will search for the sweet spot. Thanks for the help everyone.

We got stuck in traffic on the way home today so it was almost 2 hours getting home....thank god for the DVD player and lots of stretching out room, it made the time sitting in traffic much easier, but anyways I'm burnt out tonight but will hook it up tomorrow morning....the engine will not be hot either...I hope the difference is noticeable !!!

Would this guy make a good one-person commercial promoting the MU-7 or what!!? I like it!

I for one, will be up first thing in the A.M. with my warmed Soy-milk(?) (sai toom) and (extra) Bah-Thong-goes (sp?) in anticipation of your post!

With the race chip, it really is a cheap hop up but it works. If you want to go down the big money route then there is better. You can internally adjust the chip with 2 dials which l have done extensively but had engine noise increase and one engine shut down so l have come back to the factory setting which is OK. You will feel the difference for sure.

OK some will not want to tinker but l think everyone must, just to find that optimum setting. Only takes 2 minutes to adjust so no real problem. As has been stated elsewhere, if the chip fits all then l am sure tinkering is needed. My chip from factory had the wrong settings for my ride so you at least must check inside that the dials are set correctly.

While we are all waiting on Richardshane to post back, can you explain and help us understand the comparative technical performance differences between some of these chips?

I gather that the Race Chip will add 'some kind of power boost', but going into a little detail, what is it about the race chip that makes it rate so lowly amongst you professionals - where / how is it lacking? Also what is it about the better chips that rate them higher among you guys - what do these chips have and what do they do that the Race Chip doesn't?

We are referring to only the group of chips that won't void a car warranty?

With the race chip, it really is a cheap hop up but it works. If you want to go down the big money route then there is better. You can internally adjust the chip with 2 dials which l have done extensively but had engine noise increase and one engine shut down so l have come back to the factory setting which is OK. You will feel the difference for sure.

OK some will not want to tinker but l think everyone must, just to find that optimum setting. Only takes 2 minutes to adjust so no real problem. As has been stated elsewhere, if the chip fits all then l am sure tinkering is needed. My chip from factory had the wrong settings for my ride so you at least must check inside that the dials are set correctly.

While we are all waiting on Richardshane to post back, can you explain and help us understand the comparative technical performance differences between some of these chips?

I gather that the Race Chip will add 'some kind of power boost', but going into a little detail, what it is about the race chip that makes it rate so lowly rated amongst you professionals - where/how is it lacking? Also what is it about the better chips that rate them higher among you guys - what do they have and what do they do that the race chip doesn't?

The race chips does one thing only, increase the pressure on diesel injected into engine. one box fits all, and some adjustments can be done to suit your engine. 20% increase in power available, at a very low cost

Advanced engine tuning by electronics, in addition alters the timing and length of injection. With car on dyno, checking output on wheels, electronics can be adjusted for this engine/exhaust/car to perform perfectly. 30-40% more power available

Lets hope philipm comes on board, he is very knowledgable on these japs/thai 4 pots and on this subject

BTW, the reason for racechips for not knowing your MU7, is that it doesnt exist in Germany. Izu pickups are sold in very limited numbers outside LOS, and not even sure VGS is available outside LOS, since its a Euro III emission engine, not legal in Europe as Euro IV is now required. Next year Chevys/Izus new engine is out, as are new pickups and SUV

All the thai/japs truck/suv engines void warranty when chips tuned. Wouldnt worry. My 2006 Vigo 3,0 has passed 100k km by now, Mega Power chips providing more power than racechips, no problems. It does have a second auto oilcooler though.

While we are all waiting on Richardshane to post back, can you explain and help us understand the comparative technical performance differences between some of these chips?

I wrote a basic overview on some of the more easily "reversible" options a while ago, here:

Finally have it installed and running, so far I've tried 2 settings and it has increased power a tiny bit of the line but midway(50-70km) is where you can feel it when you floor it....and since the Mu-7 already has quite good power the increase certainly does not feel like 30% as stated on the website. For now this will do but not impressed as much as I thought I would be and as for the "racechip" company customer service they SUCK !! The last e-mail I got was where they told me I don't have a common rail motor, I've e-mailed them twice since with NO reply. What would I tell others....DON'T bother once they have your money they don't give a hoot, buy something local where you can get proper support the increase in power just isn't worth it when dealing with companies such as this...When my warranty runs out I will look for other more permanent options, thanks for all your help guys....! Time to drive to Pattaya and try some other settings....??

While we are all waiting on Richardshane to post back, can you explain and help us understand the comparative technical performance differences between some of these chips?

I wrote a basic overview on some of the more easily "reversible" options a while ago, here: http://www.thaivisa....ost__p__3774365

This was very eye opening (if not jaw dropping) technical facts for thought.....Excellent!

The race chips does one thing only, increase the pressure on diesel injected into engine. one box fits all, and some adjustments can be done to suit your engine. 20% increase in power available, at a very low cost

Advanced engine tuning by electronics, in addition alters the timing and length of injection. With car on dyno, checking output on wheels, electronics can be adjusted for this engine/exhaust/car to perform perfectly. 30-40% more power available

Lets hope philipm comes on board, he is very knowledgable on these japs/thai 4 pots and on this subject

BTW, the reason for racechips for not knowing your MU7, is that it doesnt exist in Germany. Izu pickups are sold in very limited numbers outside LOS, and not even sure VGS is available outside LOS, since its a Euro III emission engine, not legal in Europe as Euro IV is now required. Next year Chevys/Izus new engine is out, as are new pickups and SUV

All the thai/japs truck/suv engines void warranty when chips tuned. Wouldnt worry. My 2006 Vigo 3,0 has passed 100k km by now, Mega Power chips providing more power than racechips, no problems. It does have a second auto oilcooler though.

Is the basic difference between Euro III and Euro IV just pollution emission or (and?) does it effect the engine performance, too? What effect will the Euro IV have on these pre 2012 engines?

So the Race Chip (brand that Richardshane has) only increases the pressure on diesel injected into engine (not by electronic tuning or is not by 'advanced' electronic tuning)? While the 'better' class of chips do use 'advanced' electronic tuning (which produces a more precise result) thus is why they are 'better'. Do I have it right?