james24 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Basically my bike broke last week after a long journey, the red light came on the dashboard and the engine had seized from overheating apparently. At the time I noticed leaking oil. Anyways I put it into repair with a Honda shop I wish I hadnt and they stripped it apart and tried to do me on parts. I sorted the parts out myself in the end for way under half the price. The piston, gasket and something else Im not sure what was replaced. Unbelievably they wanted 5000bt Tonight I have noticed that a quick 3 minute drive to 7-11 caused the bike to get quite hot when I felt underneath. Since its been "repaired" I have noticed some oil leaking but thought it might be the wax they put on the bike to make it look new. However by its color it looks more like oil. The bike if I had to describe it also now feels very jolty on acceleration and slowing down, almost like its waiting for something to kick in, does anyone know what this could be and what I can do? I have a feeling that the guys that fixed are just waiting for me to return Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 can anyone suggest what i could do myself? id like to learn how to look after my bike instead of getting ripped everytime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wana Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 can anyone suggest what i could do myself? id like to learn how to look after my bike instead of getting ripped everytime i dont think 5000 is so bad to sort out a bike with a seized engine and replace everything you mentioned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rickster Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 can anyone suggest what i could do myself? id like to learn how to look after my bike instead of getting ripped everytime Buy a Haynes manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) My guess is that the 5000Baht would have done the trick and if paid it would have included a warranty on the work done. If the bike over heated there's a good chance the head might have been warped and thus need replacing (the most expensive part of that 5000Baht quote for sure) then there's the question "why did it over heat" and further parts will need replacing etc etc.... I'll never know the full extent of the damage caused to your engine but 5000Baht from a Honda dealership with genuine parts and a warranty on the work carried out is a fair price to be honest As for your current symptoms, did it ride well before you noticed it getting hot on the way to 7/11, where is the oil leaking from (try to find the highest point), does the bike have the correct water level in it's expansion tank and what colour is the oil when check on the dip stick? A little more info and i'm sure members or myself can give you some answers. Karl Edited March 6, 2012 by karlos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SumetCycle Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Is this the new Click 125? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Did they remember to put water in it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Is this the new Click 125? I'd be worried if it was, the only reason a new Honda would fail would be due to incorrect levels, which i hope all Honda mechanics could carry out. It's more than likely due to a lack of water and / or a faulty cooling system on an older bike, just as to what failed in the cooling system is anyone's guess with out a little more info Edited March 6, 2012 by karlos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macknife Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 My new CBR engine seized because the honda mechanics forgot to put the oil in it. fair enough they sorted it out under warranty and she now runs perfectly. To the OP if you did it yourself rather than pay 5000B then you are at fault. 5000B sounds reasonable to me, you should have paid it and got it done properly. Now it seems you will have to take it back to Honda anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 thanks for your help guys I noticed today that the oil stick is pretty dry, not really very wet. They told me they filled it so Im not sure whats happening there The oil I have established is leaking exactly under the stand, not the one to park the bike but the one that elevates it off the ground. I understand that 5000bt might be reasonable but even with original parts they were screwing me. I literally went to the honda on suthep road yesterday with the list the kad luang guys gave me originally with what is needed and was told 3000bt with service. The kad luang's was without service aswell. Regarding water Im not sure but like I say the bike is bloody hot now and would replacing a piston or gasket really cause this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wana Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) thanks for your help guys I noticed today that the oil stick is pretty dry, not really very wet. They told me they filled it so Im not sure whats happening there The oil I have established is leaking exactly under the stand, not the one to park the bike but the one that elevates it off the ground. I understand that 5000bt might be reasonable but even with original parts they were screwing me. I literally went to the honda on suthep road yesterday with the list the kad luang guys gave me originally with what is needed and was told 3000bt with service. The kad luang's was without service aswell. Regarding water Im not sure but like I say the bike is bloody hot now and would replacing a piston or gasket really cause this? Regarding water Im not sure but like I say the bike is bloody hot now and would replacing a piston or gasket really cause this? how can you not be sure if there is water in your bike or not ? did it never dawn on you to check ? Edited March 7, 2012 by wana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 If no or low water it will cease up. Re-bore piston etc. You sure your leak is not dirty water. Just asking cos if it is water that was your original problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wana Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 riding until you seize an engine is a pretty big disaster ,i can only imagine what this would cost in another country 5000 thb or around 100 GBP sounds like you got off pretty light from an official honda dealership dealerships in europe would probably charge that much just to make an appointment , take it in,get it on the stands diagnose the problem and then give you an estimate for the work + parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 cheers guys I have no idea how to check the water in my click, the reason my bike broke was because I didn't put any new oil in it for 6 months, thats how clueless I am. I do however keep it topped up with coolant. How can I check/top up the water level. Piston was replaced as were the rings and the gasket, thats it. As far as I can tell and from again a novice point of view there was no engine seize. I say this because the bike still ticked when I tried to start it aswell as it nearly starting when I kick started it. The color is the same as the oil, just checked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vel_tins Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 cheers guys I have no idea how to check the water in my click, the reason my bike broke was because I didn't put any new oil in it for 6 months, thats how clueless I am. I do however keep it topped up with coolant. How can I check/top up the water level. Piston was replaced as were the rings and the gasket, thats it. As far as I can tell and from again a novice point of view there was no engine seize. I say this because the bike still ticked when I tried to start it aswell as it nearly starting when I kick started it. The color is the same as the oil, just checked Not 100% sure about the click's exact location, but all other liquid cooled scooters I know, have an "expansion tank" either under the seat or foot pads. You have to remove some plastic fairings, which is easy and only a "Phillips screwdriver" _should_ be needed. Then check the coolant level in the tank, and check if the water is clear or if it has some kind of "white creamy consistence". If yes, Water and Oil have mixed up. Also check the Oil level, and the consistence. Clear=ok, white and creamy=water is inside engine oil. PS: If the the oil level was always ok, during your above mentioned "six months period", than this is not the reason, why your engine has broken! Well, _ if there was no engine seize_, a new piston with rings *could* be enough, but only, if the cylinder bore has no damages from the piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) cheers guys I have no idea how to check the water in my click, the reason my bike broke was because I didn't put any new oil in it for 6 months, thats how clueless I am. I do however keep it topped up with coolant. How can I check/top up the water level. Piston was replaced as were the rings and the gasket, thats it. As far as I can tell and from again a novice point of view there was no engine seize. I say this because the bike still ticked when I tried to start it aswell as it nearly starting when I kick started it. The color is the same as the oil, just checked Not 100% sure about the click's exact location, but all other liquid cooled scooters I know, have an "expansion tank" either under the seat or foot pads. You have to remove some plastic fairings, which is easy and only a "Phillips screwdriver" _should_ be needed. Then check the coolant level in the tank, and check if the water is clear or if it has some kind of "white creamy consistence". If yes, Water and Oil have mixed up. Also check the Oil level, and the consistence. Clear=ok, white and creamy=water is inside engine oil. PS: If the the oil level was always ok, during your above mentioned "six months period", than this is not the reason, why your engine has broken! Well, _ if there was no engine seize_, a new piston with rings *could* be enough, but only, if the cylinder bore has no damages from the piston. right Im gonna get on the case tommorow afternoon and see what I can find regarding the water. Can I ask will removing the plastic panels also enable me to see the oil level...? thanks man Edited March 7, 2012 by james24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wana Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 cheers guys I have no idea how to check the water in my click, the reason my bike broke was because I didn't put any new oil in it for 6 months, thats how clueless I am. I do however keep it topped up with coolant. How can I check/top up the water level. Piston was replaced as were the rings and the gasket, thats it. As far as I can tell and from again a novice point of view there was no engine seize. I say this because the bike still ticked when I tried to start it aswell as it nearly starting when I kick started it. The color is the same as the oil, just checked Not 100% sure about the click's exact location, but all other liquid cooled scooters I know, have an "expansion tank" either under the seat or foot pads. You have to remove some plastic fairings, which is easy and only a "Phillips screwdriver" _should_ be needed. Then check the coolant level in the tank, and check if the water is clear or if it has some kind of "white creamy consistence". If yes, Water and Oil have mixed up. Also check the Oil level, and the consistence. Clear=ok, white and creamy=water is inside engine oil. PS: If the the oil level was always ok, during your above mentioned "six months period", than this is not the reason, why your engine has broken! Well, _ if there was no engine seize_, a new piston with rings *could* be enough, but only, if the cylinder bore has no damages from the piston. right Im gonna get on the case tommorow afternoon and see what I can find regarding the water. Can I ask will removing the plastic panels also enable me to see the oil level...? thanks man you should probably be able to see the oil level without removing any panels,look for the black plastic bung on the side of the engine ,twist it anti clockwise when the engine has cooled ,not right after riding and there should be a small dipstick inside marked with a min and max level hopefuly the oil is between these two markings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 cheers guys I have no idea how to check the water in my click, the reason my bike broke was because I didn't put any new oil in it for 6 months, thats how clueless I am. I do however keep it topped up with coolant. How can I check/top up the water level. Piston was replaced as were the rings and the gasket, thats it. As far as I can tell and from again a novice point of view there was no engine seize. I say this because the bike still ticked when I tried to start it aswell as it nearly starting when I kick started it. The color is the same as the oil, just checked Not 100% sure about the click's exact location, but all other liquid cooled scooters I know, have an "expansion tank" either under the seat or foot pads. You have to remove some plastic fairings, which is easy and only a "Phillips screwdriver" _should_ be needed. Then check the coolant level in the tank, and check if the water is clear or if it has some kind of "white creamy consistence". If yes, Water and Oil have mixed up. Also check the Oil level, and the consistence. Clear=ok, white and creamy=water is inside engine oil. PS: If the the oil level was always ok, during your above mentioned "six months period", than this is not the reason, why your engine has broken! Well, _ if there was no engine seize_, a new piston with rings *could* be enough, but only, if the cylinder bore has no damages from the piston. right Im gonna get on the case tommorow afternoon and see what I can find regarding the water. Can I ask will removing the plastic panels also enable me to see the oil level...? thanks man you should probably be able to see the oil level without removing any panels,look for the black plastic bung on the side of the engine ,twist it anti clockwise when the engine has cooled ,not right after riding and there should be a small dipstick inside marked with a min and max level hopefuly the oil is between these two markings ah right thanks I know the one, thats what Id been checking and it was quite dry today, woulld this perhaps explain the jumpiness of the bike, it seems to kind of kick in rather than accelerate/decelerate smoothly...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Tried to tackle it today but looks like I need a special tool for the bolts which means I couldn't check the water level. I am slightly confused though, is the water in a part of the coolant liquid jug, the big plastic thing? I also noticed today that any speed below 40 the speedometer arrow seems to spaz out and flicker quite violently. To add to the list I stopped the bike after a 20 minute ride averaging 40 at 5.30pm and noticed than my exhaust pipe was smoking, now that cant be right surely, it never so=moked when I use to bomb it o mae sai all day..!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Tried to tackle it today but looks like I need a special tool for the bolts which means I couldn't check the water level. I am slightly confused though, is the water in a part of the coolant liquid jug, the big plastic thing? I also noticed today that any speed below 40 the speedometer arrow seems to spaz out and flicker quite violently. To add to the list I stopped the bike after a 20 minute ride averaging 40 at 5.30pm and noticed than my exhaust pipe was smoking, now that cant be right surely, it never so=moked when I use to bomb it o mae sai all day..!! Sitting on the bike look at the engine to your right. You will see a yellow cap with stuff to stop you undoing it. When cold remove the stuff and take a look, BUT your engine re-builders should have done all that. Check and if low then a water leak is your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macknife Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) If your oil dipstick is dry then put some oil in it before you go anywhere. Take it to the nearest Honda dealers that did the work or a different one and explain to them everything as best you can. I don't know your financial status, but work done at a main dealer here is not that expensive at all. Anyway, It seems you have little choice in the matter. Edited March 8, 2012 by macknife Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Tried to tackle it today but looks like I need a special tool for the bolts which means I couldn't check the water level. I am slightly confused though, is the water in a part of the coolant liquid jug, the big plastic thing? I also noticed today that any speed below 40 the speedometer arrow seems to spaz out and flicker quite violently. To add to the list I stopped the bike after a 20 minute ride averaging 40 at 5.30pm and noticed than my exhaust pipe was smoking, now that cant be right surely, it never so=moked when I use to bomb it o mae sai all day..!! Sitting on the bike look at the engine to your right. You will see a yellow cap with stuff to stop you undoing it. When cold remove the stuff and take a look, BUT your engine re-builders should have done all that. Check and if low then a water leak is your problem. Thanks Transam Just checked it and as soon as I opened it all the coolant came flooding out...????!! The water was full, like spilling over full. I refilled the coolant tank and then took it for a drive. It does seem to still get quite hot very quickly but it is running a little bit better which is weird. Would changing the filter perhaps make a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) Tried to tackle it today but looks like I need a special tool for the bolts which means I couldn't check the water level. I am slightly confused though, is the water in a part of the coolant liquid jug, the big plastic thing? I also noticed today that any speed below 40 the speedometer arrow seems to spaz out and flicker quite violently. To add to the list I stopped the bike after a 20 minute ride averaging 40 at 5.30pm and noticed than my exhaust pipe was smoking, now that cant be right surely, it never so=moked when I use to bomb it o mae sai all day..!! Sitting on the bike look at the engine to your right. You will see a yellow cap with stuff to stop you undoing it. When cold remove the stuff and take a look, BUT your engine re-builders should have done all that. Check and if low then a water leak is your problem. Thanks Transam Just checked it and as soon as I opened it all the coolant came flooding out...????!! The water was full, like spilling over full. I refilled the coolant tank and then took it for a drive. It does seem to still get quite hot very quickly but it is running a little bit better which is weird. Would changing the filter perhaps make a difference? You will also need to ensure you bleed the cooling system by removing the yellow cap you half turned that released the water earlier in this thread RELEASE THE CAP WHEN COLD!. Once the cap is removed start the engine, let the bike warm up (not boil over) and blip the throttle a few times to clear any air locks. Once you're sure there's no more air in the system, top the radiator up to it's neck and replace the cap. Then add some water to the recomended level in you expansion tank (the big plastic bottle that used to contain water) Edited March 9, 2012 by karlos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james24 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Thanks guys Bike for some reason seems to be running better but still has a few hitches. Gonna change the filter and see what happens Slightly off topic, transam I saw this and thought of you http://www.worldstarhiphop.com/videos/video.php?v=wshhvnnU2vFUUcH04ibG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Thanks guys Bike for some reason seems to be running better but still has a few hitches. Gonna change the filter and see what happens Slightly off topic, transam I saw this and thought of you http://www.worldstar...nnU2vFUUcH04ibG Thanks, made my day. Stay cool chum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vel_tins Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 It does seem to still get quite hot very quickly...... seems that the water cannot circulate correctly, mainly caused by: air in the cooling system from former repair attempts, (vent it). But you need to fill the water into the expansion tank. too much pressure on the coolant system, caused by a leak between combustion chamber and cooling system (broken gasket, cracked cyl.head, esp. from overheating etc...) broken water pump (unusual) etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now