ray23 Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 Sorry, I thought we were talking about camshaft timing here. Yes, sorry I was also talking about the ignition, as the engine also seems to backfire and that is a good sign that the ignition timing is off... This brings up a good question would this be treaced back to the ignition igniter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard-BKK Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 92057 92057-1403 CHAIN,CAM $64.50 No more then that is it would be worth the peace of mind. IS that the puppy we are looking for? He Ray, you probably also want to order 13235-1068 and 12053-1354, which basically guides the chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semper Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Sorry, I thought we were talking about camshaft timing here. actually all the parts used on teh Bike are OEM parts. I'm the third owner. I bouhgt it from a friend. So I have been around it for many years. No resurfacing nn the heads just new head gaskets. Everything was checked out by a farrang machinist. A cylender hone was all that was needed. But when you consider the first guy thought he could make headgaskets I know where you are coming rf from. That was enough so the valves dented the pistons. Then the rebuild began, the first one this bike had. This sounds like he didn't align the 'timing' marks on the cam gear properly against the TDC mark on the flywheel. I.E. the valves didn't ope/closed at the proper time and hitting the pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard-BKK Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Sorry, I thought we were talking about camshaft timing here. Yes, sorry I was also talking about the ignition, as the engine also seems to backfire and that is a good sign that the ignition timing is off... This brings up a good question would this be treaced back to the ignition igniter? Yes, all problems described before can all related to having a slightly offset ignition timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semper Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) Sorry, I thought we were talking about camshaft timing here. Yes, sorry I was also talking about the ignition, as the engine also seems to backfire and that is a good sign that the ignition timing is off... Yes it could be. But it could also be related to the new valves that were installed. If they just assembled the new valves without resurfacing the valve seats, (not unheard of ) you could have similar result (backfires). Edited June 28, 2012 by Semper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lickey Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Ray, you should find either in areosol form at most big truck accesorie shops or workshops, i really dont know if its availble in a warm country as its usally used in cold countries as a worn diesel engine starting aid, sprayed directly into the inlet air filter.. As an alternative, get a lenght of plastic pipe, 1/4 od, with engine running, place one end in ear and other end move round the manifold joints, listen for abnormal sucking [like a throbbing] noises. Backfiring can be caused by many things, yes,timing can be one of them, others include a partially blocked main jet, my XJR1200 is very guilty of this, specially if i dont drain the fuel from carbs if im not going to use it for the next 3 weeks or so, air getting into the exhaust at head or silencer joint is another,lean fuel mixture making the exhaust valves hot, poorly seating valves ect.. Try not to ride the bike too much until you find the fault Ray, the problems it has could cause an exspensive seizure, All the best, Lickey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Valves I helped seat them. The mechanic I have used years before has it. He says the timing is OK, I know he checjed it bike is torn down. He is going through the carb now. He also located a used 800 engine from Japan for 34K baht. So one way or another this should be over today.. If the used engine goes in Have a heck of a parts engine. If the bike is corrected I'm buying the engine anyway. I want back up engine I don't want to go through this frustration again. Just to many things can go wrong when a mechanic screws up and the second one can't catch what the problem was. Far to many people in the Kitchen. Thanks for all the guidance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard-BKK Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 A spare engine for 34k THB is a good idea... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Ya as long as yuo get the import apaers with 2% tax paid a matter of doing some paper works and the bike is still legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirchai Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Ya as long as yuo get the import apaers with 2% tax paid a matter of doing some paper works and the bike is still legal. Please keep us up to date... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Ya as long as yuo get the import apaers with 2% tax paid a matter of doing some paper works and the bike is still legal. Please keep us up to date... Will do had an intersting twist yesterday the guy went through the timing and carb. Runs about the same. However the battery was low. Left at the farm last night. Took the charger out there and the most it would accept was 3 amps with the battery charger at max. This would normally mean to me the battery is shot adn it maybe. But, it's the second one in six months. Makes me wonder about the rectifier. I have three day before the engine delivery so I'm going to take it back to the shop Monday and check out a different rectifier on it and see what happens. I will also try new coils. I won't be buying these. We managed to test one coil and it was OK, so one more to go. Rectifier we didn't have the equipment. Might as well take a hail mary pass at it. Got the time and it won't cost anything unless I find a bad part if you so. I won't install the back up engine. If we put the new engine in and have the same problems I will know is in the electric system. I will still have my backup engine no matter what. The replacement engine cost 10K more then the pistons, rings and valves cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 (edited) Finally some good news. Stevo spent the last two days with me and my monster, Found a dodgy spark plug cable to the reat cylnder. Repaired 20 baht. We now have fire to that pupppy HAPPY DAYS!!!!! Found an air leak at the manifold, few odds and ends needed on the carb. The biggy is now two O rings for the intake manifold and the rubber connector from the carb and intake manifold. So I have hit the point to order. Anyone have any idea what the parts are? Edited July 6, 2012 by ray23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_boo Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Finally some good news. Stevo spent the last two days with me and my monster, Found a dodgy spark plug cable to the reat cylnder. Repaired 20 baht. We now have fire to that pupppy HAPPY DAYS!!!!! Found an air leak at the manifold, few odds and ends needed on the carb. The biggy is now two O rings for the intake manifold and the rubber connector from the carb and intake manifold. So I have hit the point to order. Anyone have any idea what the parts are? It appears that you're looking for the 92005A (which is a common Kawasaki O-ring from the looks of it...not sure of the rest of the number) and perhaps the 16065-1123 (carb holder? which seems to be widely available also). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Finally some good news. Stevo spent the last two days with me and my monster, Found a dodgy spark plug cable to the reat cylnder. Repaired 20 baht. We now have fire to that pupppy HAPPY DAYS!!!!! Found an air leak at the manifold, few odds and ends needed on the carb. The biggy is now two O rings for the intake manifold and the rubber connector from the carb and intake manifold. So I have hit the point to order. Anyone have any idea what the parts are? It appears that you're looking for the 92005A (which is a common Kawasaki O-ring from the looks of it...not sure of the rest of the number) and perhaps the 16065-1123 (carb holder? which seems to be widely available also). Give the man a cigar, who would of thunk it on the cylnder head/ I just tried to post the same diagram adn it wouldn't let me do it I found the 16605 the 92005 will be right if it is a large O ring that goes on the Intake manifold. Thank you very much. I'm getting there guys got the rear cylender firing. It looks like the Thai mechainics ran the car very rich to compensate for the air leak, Man was it a mess, rubber gunk all around it. Really reduced the carb op parts buy list ionce I had somone who knew what they were doing and could take the carb apart. Being able to look is heck of an advantage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lickey Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Glad you got there in the end Ray, have you got time to cancel the spare engine still?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_boo Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 (edited) Ray, make sure that you get the 92005A as it is different from the non-a version and apparently is not a followup as the slight change would suggest. **edit** If you're going to get me a cigar I only take the finest cigars that are rolled on the nude thighs of sultry mulatto women.... Edited July 6, 2012 by dave_boo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard-BKK Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) I'm not sure what you get when you order a 92005A, the official Kawasaki part numbers is with two group of numbers. Therefore you probably look for a Kawasaki part No. 92005-1061 which is a Breather Pipe Fitting for the Kawasaki VN800 1995/6 model and probably will cost you something like 650 to 750 THB. For the standard O-rings I would advice you to go to a Toyota or Mitsubishi dealer/parts center and show the old O-rings (probably any automotive parts center will work)... No idea what they will cost, but it cannot be that much... Edited July 7, 2012 by Richard-BKK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted July 7, 2012 Author Share Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) Cigars can't say as I blame you sounds pretty nice to me. Good idea on the O rings they go on the intake manifold. I'm just waiting now to see if Babbit has a stage one dyno jet kit. That have one listed as a stage one and two, About twice as much though. Bike Bandit does have the stage one. Thought I would take the time to get the right bolts for the different parts of the bike that Thai Mechainics have put in whatever was handy. In the end your chasing wrenches a every five seconds. Might as well put a stop to that now. Nuts and bolts are not expensive, Maybe by next month I will have the bike the way it's supposed to be. You guys have beena great help and it is appreciated. At least I have gotten to learn more about the bike through this process. Spare engine is on hold now that I have the right direction, in the end don't think it would have changed a thing. The difference is a qaulified mecahinc that is willing to chase ghost's Edited July 7, 2012 by ray23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lickey Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Ray, at this stage i would be very inclined to do a compression test, running with a weak mixture might have caused a slight heat seize at some time, like sticking piston rings and a scored bore, or burnt valves, quite common with a weak fuel mixture and specialy on V Twins where its happened on the rear cylinder, also iif the cooling system has been suspect. Dont have a compression tester? you can make an easy tester, Take out the insulation of an old spark plug,get a steel/brass schrader valve stem from a tyre shop, get somchai to braze this in the plug, set the engine on TDC, fit the plug and pump up, listen at the oil filler,carb and exhaust pipe, any rushing of air will point to the problem, there you go, youve learnt another trick, we,ll make a mechanic of you yet!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Actually just the opposite running very rich. Along with not being a mechanic, I have poor writing skills as well. The darn spark plugs are so deep in, it would be real trick to do a compression check without removing the head covers. Lets see where this leads us. I'm confident we have it now. It's clear in my mind what the first mechanic did that others were not finding. He broke the seal on the rubber gunk at the carb holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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