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shaggy1969

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heres the picture of what i had to do,

its the top conector to the 3 point i dont know the name, but it was over 24" long to start with, now its down to 8" and a little ajustment,

and the other thing im on about is the drive from the PTO, i had to cut that down too to make it fit,

all up and running now,

i know i dont have a roll cage but my land is all flat, as you can see, i am going to make a hood for it though to keep the sun of me while i play with my toy, as mac calls it,,lol

thanks for your coments too dal, i would love to meet many of here, and my door is allways open with a bed for any that want to visit,,

jake

Jake, you may be in danger. Are you real familiar with 3 point setups? I have never seen the bottom bars so high at the back unless I'm just seeing it poorly. That would cause a need to shorten the top bar.

The idea of a 3 point is safety. They didn't lift until years after they were invented. They were put into use to keep the tractor from coming over backwards on top of you.

Suppose you have no implement on the tractor and you want to pull a small tree over. You put a chain around the tree and attach the other end to the tractor. If you attach that chain to the tractor at a point that is higher than the rear axle, the front end of the tractor will rise and keep coming right on over on top of you.

If however you attach the chain to the tractor low down such as to the factory draw bar, the pull will force the front end down and you will be safe. Can you picture attaching the chain up by the seat, and how that would pull the back down and the front up? The tractor has enough traction and low enough gears to rotate the tractor rather than the rear tires!!

This is why the bottom bars of a 3 point are always lower than the rear axle - because that's where the real pull is. If the connecting points on the back of those bottom bars are actually higher than the axle, you are going to get crushed.

Tractor rollover is still the #1 killer of all types on a farm.

Edited by NeverSure
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Jake, I really can't see enough in those pictures. Is it at all possible that you are completely missing the two main lower forged draw bars and are instead pulling with the lift bars that are attached to the hydraulic lift points?

I see two gray-blue lift links in your pictures and a possibility that they are doing the pulling. Look at the attached pic please. There are two large draw bars that are attached to the main housing under the axle. They do the pulling safely from down low. Then there are two lift links that go from those main bars up to the hydraulic lift. They aren't for pulling, but only for lifting. Then the top link is almost hidden as it disappears at the top of the picture, pointing up in this case.

I think it is possible that you are missing the main draw bars/lower links and someone has altered your lift link ends so that they can pull.

If I'm just not seeing it right, I apologize. If I'm right it would explain why you had to shorten the top link and the PTO shaft, for sure.

So when I add it all together - having to shorten those things, not seeing lower arms, seeing what looks like the lift arms set to pull from up high, please forgive me for being suspicious of the setup. If my suspicions are right, you are in serious danger while you also damage your hydraulic lift.

my5085-19.jpg

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here you go cliff,

i even had to cut of the traylor mount as that was fouling the PTO lincage and wouldnt let it turn,, i never pull a traylor so it didnt matter,

but they must of put it on at manifacture as the welding was good and neet,

thank you for your concern mate, i do understand tractors a little as my mum had a farm, still does but smaller,,

jake

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