A trip to Thailand's great northeast

[OldChinaHam]

Glad I found this topic, and I am bookmarking it.

I do not enjoy the well trodden path so much as something less crowded by fellow Farangs.

I do not drive in Thailand but maybe by next February my Thai will be not so terrible,

And I can find a driver to pilot a rental 4 wheel drive.

I am not getting any younger, so I am anxious to take a jaunt like this.

Maybe by next February I will have found a non-Farang female companion to share the trip.

4 decades ago I took a taxi from Sattahip to Bangkok, but I don't remember much.,

This time, I really am looking forward to taking a longer trip like the one suggested here in the North of Thailand.

But this time I will remain sober, I think.

I wonder if it is also possible just to use a small tent and sleep outside by your truck or something?

[Donnie Brasco]

I'd like to see TAT put together a Khmer stone temple tour.

These buildings went up at the same time as the great cathedrals of Europe

This period of Thailand's history and the country's Hindu, Brahman past deserve way more attention and study.

Be happy to hear from anyone who's made the effort or who could recommend reading.

Thanks

Donnie

[toenail]

I've taken the regular bus up to Khon Kan and Roi-et with no problem. Surprisingly at the large cities in Isaan, there are decent hotels and even Tesco/ Big C/ and Home Pro!!! The cities in Isaan are not as isolated as they once were...

[OldChinaHam]

Would anyone be able to comment on procedures to follow in case of health emergencies during such a trip if one were out in the sticks? Are local hospitals adequate?

What would happen? Would they send you back to Chiang Mai in a copter or something?

[Cuban]

I do not enjoy the well trodden path so much as something less crowded by fellow Farangs.

I do not drive in Thailand but maybe by next February my Thai will be not so terrible,

And I can find a driver to pilot a rental 4 wheel drive.

I am not getting any younger, so I am anxious to take a jaunt like this.

Maybe by next February I will have found a non-Farang female companion to share the trip.

I wonder if it is also possible just to use a small tent and sleep outside by your truck or something?

There are farangs dotted throughout Issan now, it would interesting to hear from others about the population density but I would put it at about 1:700 as a rough guess. At any local feature building or "thing" that might be considered an organised tourist attraction you are likely to encounter the usual coach parties to whom the attraction will cater to as a priority over and above your needs as the backhanders ensure as good a experience for the customers of the tour organiser who is a repeat client rather than your one of visit.

The issue of entry fees for farangs being x20 local rates is well covered in other threads, if it bothers you sort out you Thai Driving licence etc before posting about the disparity here.

The problem with using a Thai driver of the type that you are having this perfect vision of taking you to interesting little places off the beaten track with magical clearings with a pool to swim in and maybe a few rising trout to provide an impromptu fish super before camping under the stars..... This does not exist:

With very few exceptions Thais know the routes they have travelled before. They generally don't know "other" and there is little motivation to go to a place unless they know it is an attraction. I have travelled with my wife across Thailand top to bottom and across the East and Western limits and whenever we were close to a place of interest (I was using maps and details from travel books and the internet) within 10Km and asked directions "locals" would either never have heard of the place or think it was "over there somewhere" (then point in a random direction), objective being not to loose face and second make you go away after buying fruit, coke in a bag or whatever they were selling.

Much of Issan is dry non productive scrub-land. Where it is cultivated it will be rice paddy. Where it is too wet it will be either for fish or mosquitoes and snakes. Dotted between these zones are huge chicken farms, distilleries for making ethanol for fuel or the sugar cane to supply them. If you are driving up Hwy 2 you go through the cement factories where everything is covered in cement dust.

Camping is fairly popular in some of the national parks and only during cool season. I suggest you become fully accustomed to Thai client before considering this activity, most Thais will not do this. There are cheap hotels in most towns of 40,000 population or more. When travelling (covering large distances) consider using the many "Short Time" hotels/motels that charge room by the hour. They offer a bed (sheets normally have to be requested) air-con and a place to refresh and eat for a few hours, a much better choice than checking into a so called resort hotel and being very very disappointed with what they consider a "hotel" yet are happy to charge +1,000 Baht a night in the middle of nowhere.

Finding interesting places: Travel books, maps and on-line research is generally better that the Thai Tourist publications which tend to be driven by and focus on developed attractions that exist to separate the tourist Dollar, Pound, Yen and Euro etc from the person carrying them. We were on a trip from Khon Kaen going up top Pai by 4x4 and found great waterfalls off the beaten track (needed a 4x4 to get there through overgrown unmade almost-roads) no attraction center or admission fees. Also no first-aid, refuelling stops or recovery process, when you go off-road you need the experience to know when to turn round or have a second vehicle with you. When we last when way off into explore mode up somewhere around Chang Mai we were on a great mountain track and have left where the map ended some Km behind where there was no mobile phone signal or people, that's when to turn back.

I find travelling by pick-up truck by far the best means of getting around, if you are buying get a 4x4 not a wannabe High-rider or similar, a few years old is enough unless you seek new. This is not so much because you will be driving off-road across Issan (most of the places you will go has at least concrete road) but the greater cab hight on the Highway offers better visibility and safety. The greater ground clearance is better on the pot-hole filled minor roads as it is on he pot-hole filled major roads, don't get fancy chromed rims - these are for people that only drive in cities who are over compensating for other missing aspects in their life.

Once you have done one temple......

Many of the popular tour books like Lonely Planet are out of date so take what they write with a pinch of salt although they can offer the basis of a framework for a tour. So choose a route that gives you the best of temples and not every temple, some are interesting because of local variation or because they are smaller or massive etc.

Often the best times to visit places are very early in the morning or early evening, this is at odds with the experience of most tourists as they are merely the goods in transit of the coach/minibus driver who is at work during his working day transporting the goods between stopping points on a list. Being the master of your own itinerary means you get the best photographs - so many tourist images seen on-line these days are so washed out because they are taken when the sun bears directly down, also the places are deserted of the masses the coach brings.

ATMs...

There is access to money via ATMs everywhere but they produce plenty of 500/1,000 Baht notes which is fine for Bangkok, Pattaya etc but Issan runs on the 20 Baht note. After visiting the ATM go inside the bank and exchange for 20s and 100s - you will fine you are less likely to be ripped off in change and it is more pleasant to buy some road-side fruit without causing the seller to flounder looking for huge amounts of change from his/her colleagues along the road.

The national dish of Thailand is often said to be Pad-Thai, a curry or even fried rice. I suggest it is noodle soup as sold from a wheeled cart parked at a junction in town or in the parking area of a road-side gas station. Pick and choose from the ingredients available to get your customised dish made to order, 25 Baht.

Although by car/road is the best way to do a tourist trip visiting different locations I strongly recommend doing at least one trip by train from a central base maybe to a city or medium sized town just to explore on foot. It's cheap at something like 10 Baht for a ticket, many Thai travel free on many trains, but they too need a ticket (no charge) and there are inspectors that check that they are carrying these free tickets - train travel is an experience. Best by day, as the night service brings out the weirdos on public transport in every country.

Considering that this thread is really an advert for a tourist book that has had mixed reviews on Amazon, it is a source of ideas and not a definitive reference work, we each have different areas of particular interest and so would best be served by researching what might interest you rather that just buy a tour off the shelf going to the places that offer the guide the best kick-backs.

Hope this inspires and helps.

[Cuban]

Would anyone be able to comment on procedures to follow in case of health emergencies during such a trip if one were out in the sticks?

Are local hospitals adequate?

What would happen? Would they send you back to Chiang Mai in a copter or something?

Depends on the nature of the illness in question.

I've been in the local hospital (town 20,000 population) and the government hospital in Khon Kaen as a patient, broken arm. Both were fine in my experience. Do not expect the world's finest surgeons to be working in the first minor hospital you happen to be near. Some will not have x-ray staff working all hours of the night for example.

THE most important thing for you to do is have adequate health insurance AND the ability to have that communicated to the hospital staff even if you are unconscious, so have the contact details and reference numbers etc in multiple places such as passport, wallet and in your luggage - get basic instructions written in Thai (Google translate?) with the documents - to make Google translate better use simple language in short sentences.

If you are an expat it's worth registering at the local hospital even if you don't need regular health care - if something does happen you are already in the system.

There are no medically equipped helicopters waiting on standby in the Issan area just in case, that I'm aware of. Any transportation will be by road, the quality of the ambulance in terms on equipment and staff (skills) will vary, most are 50 years behind the West and will focus on scoop and run, the 45 minute run to Khon Kaen I experienced had air-con but no oxygen.

If you need obscure medication carry enough with you and consider the impact of loss of luggage - many Thai generics are widely available but if it's propriety or specialist you would be wise to see if it's sold in one of the cities on your route.

[laislica]

Great advice.

As to prescription pills etc, whilst there are many generic ones available there are quite a few that you can only get with a Doctors note.

Also, Thailand is well known for selling fake anything.

[David48]

There are farangs dotted throughout Issan now,

<snip>

Hope this inspires and helps.

...

For some considered travel advice, read his musings a few posts up.

I really enjoyed reading that ... thanks!

.

[wellred]

Sounds nice. I think I may try squeeze in a week on my next trip. Does anyone know if any of the Thai airlines fly from any Issan cities to the South?

[slipperylobster]

If you like standing in lines, driving through horrendous traffic, rowdy young backpackers, drunk sexpats and sleazy bars then you will miss all of these things greatly in Udon. You may even ask yourself why you would want to come to this part of Isaan. As for me, I dread going to Bangkok for any reason. Although I love the beach, I do not enjoy not being able to park my car and despise the vendors. Koh Phayam in the West and Koh Chang in the East are my preferences for island trips. Loei has beautiful mountain vistas and very cool weather (in season) and is only 2 hours from Udon. Nong Khai is about 45 minutes. There are 3 National Parks within one hour drive of the city. In Udon, people are still smiling and you can walk through the mall or Nong Prajak park and have a good chat without going to a bar. Many Thai Restaurants have live music and good food. I have found that there are many good looking ladies who are approachable. Rent here is more affordable, and transportation is reasonable. Hotel rooms can be rented for 5000 a month/plus utilities...if you go behind Watana Hospital by Nong Prajak Park. Do not stay near Soi Sampan (unless you like girlie bars/sexpats). Its not what Udon is about. Come hereM and rent a scooter (no ripoffs) and try to get out with the locals. Tawang Daeng and Yellowbird Disco have live music/dancing but go after 10pm. Classical Thai Music and other types of live music are available, but you are best going there with a local who knows where the places are. Its pretty spread out. Get away from the train station. You may find yourself chatting up ladies who have non-bar type jobs. You will get invited to weddings, parties, Isaan style nightclubs, etc. Many swimming pools, golf courses, good gym in the physical education college. If you do need farang bars, there is nutty park and Day and Night. Last time I was there, I saw some cuties and enough expats to chat up. Is all more refreshing up here with none of the tourist and mafia crapola that drives you nutty.

[sirchai]

What about the Ubon Ratchathani candle festival this month....you'll also meet some' hansum" tourist police volunteers with lots of skin whitener on,-

http://www.thailand-hotel.com/blog/ubon-ratchathani-candle-festival-thailand-on-july-2013/

Edited July 5, 2013 by sirchai

[MrRed]

I have been to Isaan many times and I know why so few tourists go there.

Why?

Apart from som tam, larb and gai yang, there is nothing out there.

Ahh OK! but still you......... "have been to Isaan many times"

[craigt3365]

i have lived in this area between Khon Kaen and Udon Thani, for the past 6 years and it is far way above the best area of any other place in Thailand for residing in. You get to feel the true thailand at first hand, not like at any of the many over commercial. over priced places, where tourist flock to, and get ripped off.

Most tourists like to flock to the commercial, over-priced places though. They're like sheep - they just follow other tourists. Not many any interested in seeing anything off the beaten track.

Could also be because those touristy places have some really nice things to see and do. Like Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Kanchanaburi, Phuket, Khao Lak, etc.

I'd like to see TAT put together a Khmer stone temple tour.

These buildings went up at the same time as the great cathedrals of Europe

This period of Thailand's history and the country's Hindu, Brahman past deserve way more attention and study.

Be happy to hear from anyone who's made the effort or who could recommend reading.

Thanks

Donnie

I've seen bus tours being advertised before. But I think they are targeting wealthier Thais. One was recently advertised with a professor from the fine arts department. Not sure if it was in English, but it was advertised in English. I'll try to see if I can find the advert. Sounded really interesting. They were timing it to coincide with the 4 times of year the sun shines through all the portals.

[craigt3365]

Sounds nice. I think I may try squeeze in a week on my next trip. Does anyone know if any of the Thai airlines fly from any Issan cities to the South?

A few are listed here:

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/527870-airline-information-and-flight-deals-for-expats/

But they do seem to come and go, and routes change fairly often.

[craigt3365]

What about the Ubon Ratchathani candle festival this month....you'll also meet some' hansum" tourist police volunteers with lots of skin whitener on,-

http://www.thailand-hotel.com/blog/ubon-ratchathani-candle-festival-thailand-on-july-2013/

I think several cities are doing a candle festival this month. I went to one several years ago and it is amazing what they do with wax!

TAT's website is pretty good for finding upcoming festivals and events:

http://www.tourismthailand.org/

I also see lots of tours being promoted, private drivers, etc.

[slipperylobster]

ATMs...

There is access to money via ATMs everywhere but they produce plenty of 500/1,000 Baht notes which is fine for Bangkok, Pattaya etc but Issan runs on the 20 Baht note.

20 Baht notes ?????? LOL....how old is this information? Every ATM I have ever been to issues 1000...and you CAN change a 500 baht note with any vendor/trike. Its not what you think. Prices are lower here..but not dramatically so. And you might get a shock to find out that civilization, as we know it, does exists. The first time somebody told me about Isaan, it was like I never wanted to go. But now, I am here and hate the idea of leaving. Still fly out for 600-1000 baht...Air Asia has deals from Udon to Bangkok and Phuket. Nok Air flies from Udon to Chiang Mai. The airport is a very pleasant experience, and only 10 minutes from my house. I have horses down the street that practice in my back yard for the races on Saturday and Sunday. No lines anywhere.....you just go in (like at the airport) and relax. Golf course and swimming pools and gym all only 10 minutes from my house. I rent an old 3 bedroom 3 bath home on 2 Rai of land and right in Udon City between Nong Prajak Park and the Airport. Buffets and the 4 star hotel Prajactra and Napolai are all you can eat for 180 baht. They give us a 20 percent discount....cuz we love it here.... haha...

[oldsailor35]

What no mention of the F1 racing that is held in Khon Kaen daily?

Oh! is that where its held .........we have the qualifying session here on Samui every day around 4 pm when the hotel resort mini busses collect their guests from the Lompraya ferry boats coming back from Koh Phangan and Koh Tao.

[craigt3365]

What no mention of the F1 racing that is held in Khon Kaen daily?

Oh! is that where its held .........we have the qualifying session here on Samui every day around 4 pm when the hotel resort mini busses collect their guests from the Lompraya ferry boats coming back from Koh Phangan and Koh Tao.

We've got that here in Pattaya on Sukhumvit around 5 PM or so with the buses and mini buses full of Thais and Russians heading home. Plain crazy.

[chuang]

Yes the above places mentioned are worth a visit, have visited all of them would go again if have the chance, nearly lost our way coming down from the dinosaurs park up in the mountain, was trying to make a short cut....it was already late afternoon, finally reached the base and were told the search and rescue were be sent out if we not back in another 15 mins ....no not another trip up there...

[kurnell]

I have been to Isaan many times and I know why so few tourists go there.

Why?

Apart from som tam, larb and gai yang, there is nothing out there.

Ahh OK! but still you......... "have been to Isaan many times"

I didn't say I was the most exciting man on the planet + one has to go upcountry occasionally to appease the savages

[NanLaew]

Meanwhile, in Udon Thani....

Don't tell anyone....if the secret gets out, they will flock here and that means no more 10 baht beer at the 5 story gogo complex next to the water park.....

I know! Even for the blokes that aren't into the chrome pole palaces, some of those young Loatian dancers are stunning and so VERY enthusiastic. Don't really see the need for their "No Bar Fine Thusday's" to get the punters in either. When it all gets too much, I like to cool my heels at the Sports Bar near the big lake with it's all day '2-for-1' Happy Hour on all imported beers. Awesome burgers too! You have to like the free, 'Out on the Town' service they run at the weekends with the local 'skylab' trikes to get you around although I don't really like those ice-cold towels they give away.

I will miss the place after all.

[glegolo]

I live in Isaan in something called Chaiyaphum. My thoughts when reading this thread is. Why bother anyhow to leave the safe big cities along the coastline with its turists??? The suggestions here is anyhow to repeat what you already have been seen or lived in BIG CITIES...

My thought when going to places like the region of i.e. isaan would be to see what it is all about, come closer to the people see how they are.... At least try a bit..... And than go back to normal big city life again.... For me if I would be living in a big city, I would never dream of going to Khorat, Khon Kaen Loi or Surin and than claim to have been in Isaan........

Think it is better to stay home close to bars and the normal tourist ghettos..

Glegolo