Why Bangkok street food sucks: Opinion

[webfact]

OPINION: Why Bangkok street food sucks
By Terence Wang

Illustration: Oliver Raw

OPINION – Sometimes it doesn’t hurt to slaughter a sacred cow. Especially when it’s shitting all over the sidewalk. The holy soiler of our beloved streets I’ll be examining in this article is something people often – and incorrectly – cite as one of the best things about living in Bangkok: street food.

I’ve lived here for two-and-a-half years, so I know a lot more than most people about street “cuisine.” It’s almost never organic, and it certainly doesn’t deserve to be called “artisanal.” If it contains meat, it will be the cheapest meat money can buy, meat made from animals that have endured a lifetime of sheer hell before being slaughtered, chopped into little pieces and deep-fried in two-month-old palm oil for your dubious “pleasure.”

And it’s dangerous. Where there is street food, there are rats and even worse vermin. The product has often been sitting out in the searing Bangkok heat all day before it reaches your tender insides. Sometimes, to cut costs, vendors wash plates and silverware in khlong water. We all know what goes in the khlongs – and it ain’t dish soap. People can and have died after eating street food. Ask any doctor in the city – street food is literally killer.

“But street food tastes so good,” I hear you whimper. “Don’t trash street food, it tastes so good.” To that, I give you three letters: ‘M’, ‘S’ and ‘G’. Monosodium glutamate is the dirty little secret of the dirty little street food world. This is because MSG is the easiest way a vendor with a meager budget can put out a product that tastes good. MSG is a mind-altering chemical that makes you think food tastes better than it really does. It is a lie. Street food is a lie.

And what’s so great about sitting on shitty plastic furniture, inhaling fumes and listening to engine noise while you eat, anyway? Most annoying of all, street food stalls make it a nightmare to navigate the Bangkok sidewalks, which are narrow enough as it is. Because Grandma Daeng insists on setting up her fried-banana shack on the pavement every morning, many are now less than half the width they need to be. The result is constant bottlenecks that make fantasizing about acts of ultraviolence against other pedestrians a regular feature of our daily commutes. [read more...]

Full story: http://bangkok.coconuts.co/2013/08/14/opinion-why-bangkok-street-food-sucks

-- Coconuts Bangkok 2013-08-14

[lomatopo]

Pretty much agree that most, not all, soi chow has too much oil, salt, sugar, Ajinimoto and no real balance/flavor profiles.

I'd also like to see more food courts like Singapore, which, as the author points out, had a similar problem with street vendors.

"Bangkok is in dire need of a solution to the street food problem. As is often the case with issues of urban management, the city must look to Singapore for the answer. Aware of the problem since the 1950s, the authorities in Singapore moved troublesome vendors into “hawker centers” and, later, air-conditioned food courts. Happily, street food in today’s Singapore is sold in an environment the authorities can control. It’s safe, regulated and the streets of the city are a pleasure to stroll down."

[harrry]

I vote for the Singapore solution too. Clear sidewalks. Vendors in inside or outside foodcourts with proper toilets running water and health supervision of food.

Edited August 14, 2013 by harrry

[BanTamo]

Oh yes. Please make Bangkok like Singapore. NOT

[MaxLee]

Unfortunately if you are poor, you can't really eat healthy

[tominbkk]

Fair enough then. But can you imagine if a bowl of noodles went from 30 to 125 baht overnight in Thailand?

I agree as well about controlling the street food a bit more, though there are some great places around my neighborhood that I would hate to see shut down, esp. as nothing else is open as late as they are.

Edited August 14, 2013 by tominbkk

[tingtongfarang]

Although i eat street food maybe twice a week i really do dislike the way vendors of all kinds not only food make it impossible to walk anywhere,

It was explained to me that the police have a hand in this and vendors have to pay on a monthly basis, the same even happens in areas designed to be used for vending.

[tominbkk]

while it may be true of some, it is most certainly not true of all.

buddy needs to go eat some proper street food.

As for the singapore comparison, well mr wang, you are entitled to your opinion.

There's street food around the 7/11 by my house that opens at night, is clean, and cheap. Pad Thai, gio nam, kao mun gai, and a little steak place all coexist comfortably and have tons of business.

[tominbkk]

Also, once we get the street food in check, we can get rid of all those prostitutes. Then stop selling gum.

[ViKrav]

Bangkok has traffic problem. It's fact.

Bangkok HAS NOT 'street food' problem. It's also fact (at least for me).

If you don't like Bangkok style street food,

go to Singapore or any other city you like,

but don't try to set your own rules here, please.

[canman]

Organising the BKK street vendors into food courts would make no differance at all. In fact I suspect it would make the problem worse as you would end up with a concentration of unsanitary operations where the vermon and roaches would thrive.

Organising the BKK street vendors into food courts and putting into place a functioning government run licensing and health inspection rating scheme such as they have in Singapore would work. Anyone here believe that would happen??

Edited August 14, 2013 by canman

[tominbkk]

Bangkok has traffic problem. It's fact.

Bangkok HAS NOT 'street food' problem. It's also fact (at least for me).

If you don't like Bangkok style street food,

go to Singapore or any other city you like,

but don't try to set your own rules here, please.

Singapore has people who enjoy being told what they can and cannot do. Thailand, maybe not so much!

[harrry]

Also, once we get the street food in check, we can get rid of all those prostitutes. Then stop selling gum.

So you have never heard of Geylang.

And you can buy gum now.

Place has gone to the dogs.....no wonder I was able to photograph this last time I was there.

[Kaoboi Bebobp]

I stopped eating street food in late 2010, due to no particular decisive event. It's a culmination of witnessed unhygienic behaviour by vendors and decidedly poor quality ingredients and cooking oils. Example: one night at Sukuhumwit soi 33, I watched the lady cook shuffling fried rice and reach deep into her mouth with two fingers and pull something out, then put that hand back on the spatula, the same hand with which she'd pulled raw chicken out of the ice chest. To say nothing of the soiled apron, filthy wipe rags and such.

There's no system of perfect food prep habits and health inspections. I just wanted to lower the risk of food poisoning and swallowing very low quality ingredients.

I know I wouldn't mind paying more for a dish if I thought I was getting better ingredients and sanitary food prep conditions. I think Thais also appreciate clean(er) food. My (ex) GF's Jomtien restaurant was taking more customers from the dirt-floor eateries because they recognized how clean her place was, and it was. And even said they'd pay more if she raised her prices. So I think it's not only farangs who are concerned.

[Kananga]

Fair enough then. But can you imagine if a bowl of noodles went from 30 to 125 baht overnight in Thailand?

I agree as well about controlling the street food a bit more, though there are some great places around my neighborhood that I would hate to see shut down, esp. as nothing else is open as late as they are.

Why would a bowl of noodles go from 30 baht to 125 baht overnight?

[TheSpade]

I don't want Bangkok to become sterile and lifeless like Singapore. Sure street carts do block up the streets at times so there's a point there but saying he food is poor quality and unhygienic whilst it might be true just means if you don't like it then don't eat it.

I think I'll go get a bowl of Radna Moo from my local street place. Yum.

[Kananga]

I don't want Bangkok to become sterile and lifeless like Singapore. Sure street carts do block up the streets at times so there's a point there but saying he food is poor quality and unhygienic whilst it might be true just means if you don't like it then don't eat it.

I think I'll go get a bowl of Radna Moo from my local street place. Yum.

Sterile and lifeless? You should have got off the tourist trail!

[lomatopo]

The popularity of indoor (coupon) food courts, and all the outdoor-covered food courts in/near every single large wet market here in Bangkok, leads me to believe that the concept is wholly acceptable, and probably preferable for both consumers and vendors. But I do understand people are not tolerant of change. Who doesn't love seeing a street vendor pour 20 liters of used cooking oil down the street drain? Or watching a passing dog lift his leg on the freshly washed plates, chopsticks and sporks.

[balo]

I avoid eating street food if I can . It's just not healthy for you , even if some of it tastes good.

Yes I am paying 100 baht for my dinner inside a small restaurant instead of 30 baht outside.

[ChrisB87]

"I’ve lived here for two-and-a-half years, so I know a lot more than most people about street “cuisine.”" - This is just priceless!

Edited August 14, 2013 by ChrisB87

[Wavefloater]

I didn't want to read anymore when this guy feels that a mere 2-1/2 years in Bangkok makes him an authority about ANYTHING there.

But lets take a look at this ludicrous article.

First of all, the price of street food should tell anybody with even an ounce of common sense that it's not going to be artisan quality product or <deleted>' organic. Let's get real.

Second, he goes on about how it worsens the problem of rats and similar vermin. Well, the real attraction for the vermin in streets like Bangkok's is the garbage -- it's placed by the street side in great quantities by restaurants, residents, and other business. There's a hell of a lot more of that than there is waste/refuse from the street vendors.

Once again, common sense should kick in and make people realize that cleanliness standards (dish cleaning, etc) are probably going to be compromised at a street stall, so one makes their choice knowing that.

Does this guy really think that MSG is ONLY used in street food?

Now, as for the ambiance offered by a street vendor, roadside eating is not everybody's cup of tea, but isn't the romantic image of a sidewalk cafe in Paris iconic in the world of dining? Some people love to eat out near the street to enjoy the parade of life as it passes by. Others feel an air-conditioned restaurant is better. each to their own. If this guy had his way and all the street vendors were forced inside, it would be just plain sad.

Finally, his whole sorry attempt at junior journalism reeks of someone who travels to another country and decides that he's going to be the one to set these people straight and make them see that his way is the only way. An embarrassing display of arrogance and naivety, I would say.

Edited August 14, 2013 by Wavefloater

[tingtongfarang]

I avoid eating street food if I can . It's just not healthy for you , even if some of it tastes good.

Yes I am paying 100 baht for my dinner inside a small restaurant instead of 30 baht outside.

After 10 years living here i have been poisoned in resteraunts 2 times...but never at a street food stall, point being you dont see what goes on in a resteraunt kitchen,

For a while the idea of eating street food did not enter my head and i considered it to be too dangerous, it took maybe 1 year to cross this bridge and in the effort i went completly native food wise,

I agree that street food is not healthy in regards to msg and such but i feel to eat it 2 times per week or so is ok, resteraunts i avoid, and prefure to do most of my cooking at home these days.

Edited to say i noticed in the last month thai people at food stalls asking about the rice....i even heard them saying i dont want to eat thaksin rice

Edited August 14, 2013 by tingtongfarang

[lee b]

What ever kind of food it is, it is generally nice. I know alot of wealthy thais that eat at these places, and i dont think they would do if the food was no good at all....

[NCC1701A]

i wish everyone would stop complaining and trying to change Thailand. If you don't like it please don't come here. It will be a sad day when all the unique culture, fun and freedom is gone. If you don't like the wild west, stay out of Dodge.

[BeforeTigers]

I must have gotten a bad batch.
That, or whoever is curating has a secret grudge against BKK.

The last 3 articles TV has linked from Coconuts have been people shitting all over the city.

'I've only dated 32 people in the last 4 weeks. BKK sucks for dating'
'Living in a foreign country is harder than living in my home town'
'street food is all, you know, streety'

Bounce, dude.

[pedro01]

I didn't want to read anymore when this guy feels that a mere 2-1/2 years in Bangkok makes him an authority about ANYTHING there.

But lets take a look at this ludicrous article.

First of all, the price of street food should tell anybody with even an ounce of common sense that it's not going to be artisan quality product or <deleted>' organic. Let's get real.

Second, he goes on about how it worsens the problem of rats and similar vermin. Well, the real attraction for the vermin in streets like Bangkok's is the garbage -- it's placed by the street side in great quantities by restaurants, residents, and other business. There's a hell of a lot more of that than there is waste/refuse from the street vendors.

Once again, common sense should kick in and make people realize that cleanliness standards (dish cleaning, etc) are probably going to be compromised at a street stall, so one makes their choice knowing that.

Does this guy really think that MSG is ONLY used in street food?

Now, as for the ambiance offered by a street vendor, roadside eating is not everybody's cup of tea, but isn't the romantic image of a sidewalk cafe in Paris iconic in the world of dining? Some people love to eat out near the street to enjoy the parade of life as it passes by. Others feel an air-conditioned restaurant is better. each to their own. If this guy had his way and all the street vendors were forced inside, it would be just plain sad.

Finally, his whole sorry attempt at junior journalism reeks of someone who travels to another country and decides that he's going to be the one to set these people straight and make them see that his way is the only way. An embarrassing display of arrogance and naivety, I would say.

Absolutely agree - the whole article is nonsense.

Considering the sheer qty of street food vendors in BKK - they are of course going to be of varied quality. Still, in my 15 years here, I've never gotten sick from street food.

I have quite a few favourites - the noodle guy about 200 metres into Sukhumvit 65 does a roaring trade and the food is excellent, I regularly go out of my way to eat there.

There will always be good and bad ones but all bad? Utter nonsense.

[GreenSnapper]

Whenever someone points out the alledged dangers of MSG - I know the article is utter bùllshit.

The hygiene at street restaurants isn't that great, but all my food poisonings I ever had came from proper restaurants, some even fancy.

[Soi Dog]

Wow! He's lived here a full 2.5 years and he is an expert on Bangkok street food! And here after 12 years the only thing I know for sure is that there is a lot more to know. I guess he must be some kind of genius. He is certainly an expert on the affluent narcissism that is the organic food cult. As for Singapore, the last time I had food poisoning it was from eating at a 5 star hotel restaurant in Singapore. I've never gotten sick from Bangkok street food.

[tcris52]

Once you've finished making Bangkok into another Singapore, squash the current 1,569 km² of Bangkok down to 704 km², including the islands.

Oh wait. The floods and the gulf will take care of that soon enough.

[Katipo]

There are plenty of cheap 'almost on the street' but not blocking the footpath places that serve quality food (with decent looking and tasting) meat for 35 baht in Bangkok.

It's that type of place that you will find me if I want cheap eats.