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How To Join Two bits Of Wood?


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Posted

I want to join the bits of wood in the photo to make a couple of doors.

The wood is 4" x 1". The design says to use pocket holes but I tried drilling holes and the wood is too thin.

Any ideas? Thanks.post-11421-0-54883500-1381762873_thumb.j

Posted

Also, the wood is really hard. I don't think it has to be too strong as I'll be putting more wood across it, but could be wrong. ANother photo to show the size of the doors.post-11421-0-85686100-1381763588_thumb.j

Posted (edited)

I would use either dove tail joints or mortise and tenon joints, but I doubt if you know what they are or how to make them.

The other alternatives are, get a couple of G clamps and use wood glue, or get some 6 inch nails.

PS, I am not being funny, but where did you get the design from?

PPS you could also use dowels, drill holes in both the pieces of wood, insert dowels and glue.

Edited by rgs2001uk
Posted

Without having the proper tools to make the joints as mentioned above, I would cut the ends of the boards at 45 degree angles and use wood glue, Elmer's if you can find it, and countersunk flat head screws from the outside in both directions.

  • Like 1
Posted

Did you try drilling the pockets by hand (without a guide)? Not easy sad.png

There's a thread somewhere discussing pocket joints and availability of the guides in Thailand.

The Z-frame door above looks easy to make and strong.

If you need to go with a frame then a simple half-lap joint is easy in timber as thick as 1", glue and screw for strength.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint

https://www.google.com/search?q=half+lap+joint&client=firefox-a&hs=WwY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ZIVcUs2UEImNrgfxz4GIBQ&ved=0CDYQsAQ

  • Like 1
Posted

Without having the proper tools to make the joints as mentioned above, I would cut the ends of the boards at 45 degree angles and use wood glue, Elmer's if you can find it, and countersunk flat head screws from the outside in both directions.

Thanks.Good idea but I have already pre cut the wood.
Posted

Did you try drilling the pockets by hand (without a guide)? Not easy sad.png

There's a thread somewhere discussing pocket joints and availability of the guides in Thailand.

The Z-frame door above looks easy to make and strong.

If you need to go with a frame then a simple half-lap joint is easy in timber as thick as 1", glue and screw for strength.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint

https://www.google.com/search?q=half+lap+joint&client=firefox-a&hs=WwY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ZIVcUs2UEImNrgfxz4GIBQ&ved=0CDYQsAQ

Yes, and broke the drill first try.

Thanks for the links. A lap joint looks good and strong but I've not got a long enough bit of wood now for that.

Posted

Could you glue / screw triangular plywood corner pieces on each corner? Easy and strong (but ugly).

What sort of tools do you have, power saw, router, drill?

Practical solutions obviously depend upon the tools available.

Posted (edited)

Use steel right angle brackets in the inside corners.

post-26396-0-07218800-1381814961_thumb.j

Edited by Mrjlh
  • Like 1
Posted

Dowel joint would only require a drill, or use metal angle brackets.

attachicon.gifDowel Joint.jpgattachicon.gifCorner Bracket 1.jpgattachicon.gifCorner Bracket 2.jpg

The problem with dowel joints is that unless you have a drill press and the proper fixture to keep the wood completely straight it's not an option it is impossible to drill the dowel holes with a hand drill and no fixture. Lap joints work great but it is difficult to get the lap thickness exact and full lap doubles the thickness of the frame As I said, I normally use 45 degree cuts, glue and counter sunk screws. The counter sunk holes can be filled and be made invisible.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks rgs

Here is where I got the design from.

http://ana-white.com/2012/04/plans/small-cedar-fence-picket-storage-shed

OK, now I understand what she has done.

The frustrating thing for me is, I could knock that door up for you in a couple of hours.

Thats one of the beauties of this forum, plenty of people willing to share their expertise, its a pity we never get to do it in reality.

KISS.

(no offence meant).

Posted (edited)

Looks a crap design to me, great to get covered in water when trying to open the doors, why they didnt angle the roof to one side instead.

Make sure to use waterproof glue pva.

Substitute wood for shera board also.

Edited by kannot
Posted

Thanks rgs

Here is where I got the design from.

http://ana-white.com/2012/04/plans/small-cedar-fence-picket-storage-shed

OK, now I understand what she has done.

The frustrating thing for me is, I could knock that door up for you in a couple of hours.

Thats one of the beauties of this forum, plenty of people willing to share their expertise, its a pity we never get to do it in reality.

KISS.

(no offence meant).

Yeah this forum is very helpful.

I really am a beginner with DIY.

I don't think I'll follow her design as the door frame wood is not the same as the sherawood I'm going to use. I think I might do the z-door or put the sherawood on the outside of her frame instead of the inside, the again maybe the door won't open correctly.

Posted

Get a rectangular piece of plywood 3.66 mill or thicker for extra strength. Glue your boards onto this and varnish it the same colour. Have the plywood side on the inside.

Would have been better if you had cut the wood at 45 degrees. Measure twice, cut once.

Posted

Get a rectangular piece of plywood 3.66 mill or thicker for extra strength. Glue your boards onto this and varnish it the same colour. Have the plywood side on the inside.

Would have been better if you had cut the wood at 45 degrees. Measure twice, cut once.

Good idea , thanks.

I'm using sherawood now. Tis may sound like a silly question but can you varnish sherawood?

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