I want to join the bits of wood in the photo to make a couple of doors.

The wood is 4" x 1". The design says to use pocket holes but I tried drilling holes and the wood is too thin.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Also, the wood is really hard. I don't think it has to be too strong as I'll be putting more wood across it, but could be wrong. ANother photo to show the size of the doors.

I would use either dove tail joints or mortise and tenon joints, but I doubt if you know what they are or how to make them.

The other alternatives are, get a couple of G clamps and use wood glue, or get some 6 inch nails.

PS, I am not being funny, but where did you get the design from?

PPS you could also use dowels, drill holes in both the pieces of wood, insert dowels and glue.

Edited October 14, 201312 yr by rgs2001uk

You dont say where the door is for, read here on how to make a simple Z frame.

http://buildaclubhouse.com/building/clubhouse-molding-and-accessories.html

Thanks rgs

Here is where I got the design from.

http://ana-white.com/2012/04/plans/small-cedar-fence-picket-storage-shed

Without having the proper tools to make the joints as mentioned above, I would cut the ends of the boards at 45 degree angles and use wood glue, Elmer's if you can find it, and countersunk flat head screws from the outside in both directions.

Did you try drilling the pockets by hand (without a guide)? Not easy

There's a thread somewhere discussing pocket joints and availability of the guides in Thailand.

The Z-frame door above looks easy to make and strong.

If you need to go with a frame then a simple half-lap joint is easy in timber as thick as 1", glue and screw for strength.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint

https://www.google.com/search?q=half+lap+joint&client=firefox-a&hs=WwY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ZIVcUs2UEImNrgfxz4GIBQ&ved=0CDYQsAQ

Without having the proper tools to make the joints as mentioned above, I would cut the ends of the boards at 45 degree angles and use wood glue, Elmer's if you can find it, and countersunk flat head screws from the outside in both directions.

Thanks.Good idea but I have already pre cut the wood.

Did you try drilling the pockets by hand (without a guide)? Not easy

There's a thread somewhere discussing pocket joints and availability of the guides in Thailand.

The Z-frame door above looks easy to make and strong.

If you need to go with a frame then a simple half-lap joint is easy in timber as thick as 1", glue and screw for strength.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint

https://www.google.com/search?q=half+lap+joint&client=firefox-a&hs=WwY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ZIVcUs2UEImNrgfxz4GIBQ&ved=0CDYQsAQ

Yes, and broke the drill first try.

Thanks for the links. A lap joint looks good and strong but I've not got a long enough bit of wood now for that.

Could you glue / screw triangular plywood corner pieces on each corner? Easy and strong (but ugly).

What sort of tools do you have, power saw, router, drill?

Practical solutions obviously depend upon the tools available.

Dowel joint would only require a drill, or use metal angle brackets.

+1 ^^^

Metal angles, cheap, effective and neater than the plywood

Use steel right angle brackets in the inside corners.

Edited October 15, 201312 yr by Mrjlh

I never thought of metal bracket - sounds easy - do you know if Homepro/Do Home, Thai Watsadu have them?

HomePro certainly carry that sort of thing, don't forget screws (and a new drill)

Take the photo.

Dowel joint would only require a drill, or use metal angle brackets.

Dowel Joint.jpgCorner Bracket 1.jpgCorner Bracket 2.jpg

The problem with dowel joints is that unless you have a drill press and the proper fixture to keep the wood completely straight it's not an option it is impossible to drill the dowel holes with a hand drill and no fixture. Lap joints work great but it is difficult to get the lap thickness exact and full lap doubles the thickness of the frame As I said, I normally use 45 degree cuts, glue and counter sunk screws. The counter sunk holes can be filled and be made invisible.

Thanks rgs

Here is where I got the design from.

http://ana-white.com/2012/04/plans/small-cedar-fence-picket-storage-shed

OK, now I understand what she has done.

The frustrating thing for me is, I could knock that door up for you in a couple of hours.

Thats one of the beauties of this forum, plenty of people willing to share their expertise, its a pity we never get to do it in reality.

KISS.

(no offence meant).

Looks a crap design to me, great to get covered in water when trying to open the doors, why they didnt angle the roof to one side instead.

Make sure to use waterproof glue pva.

Substitute wood for shera board also.

Edited October 15, 201312 yr by kannot

or not stand in front of the shed in the pissing rain.

Thanks rgs

Here is where I got the design from.

http://ana-white.com/2012/04/plans/small-cedar-fence-picket-storage-shed

OK, now I understand what she has done.

The frustrating thing for me is, I could knock that door up for you in a couple of hours.

Thats one of the beauties of this forum, plenty of people willing to share their expertise, its a pity we never get to do it in reality.

KISS.

(no offence meant).

Yeah this forum is very helpful.

I really am a beginner with DIY.

I don't think I'll follow her design as the door frame wood is not the same as the sherawood I'm going to use. I think I might do the z-door or put the sherawood on the outside of her frame instead of the inside, the again maybe the door won't open correctly.

Get a rectangular piece of plywood 3.66 mill or thicker for extra strength. Glue your boards onto this and varnish it the same colour. Have the plywood side on the inside.

Would have been better if you had cut the wood at 45 degrees. Measure twice, cut once.

Get a rectangular piece of plywood 3.66 mill or thicker for extra strength. Glue your boards onto this and varnish it the same colour. Have the plywood side on the inside.

Would have been better if you had cut the wood at 45 degrees. Measure twice, cut once.

Good idea , thanks.

I'm using sherawood now. Tis may sound like a silly question but can you varnish sherawood?