Should You Visit the "Long Neck" Kayan?

[rabbitrabbit]

In June of 1979, National Geographic published an article titled "Anatomy of a Burmese Beauty Secret" by Dr. John M. Keshishian, M.D. The article featured a photo of a woman decked out in full traditional Kayan garb, silver pendants dangling from her hair and ears, red and white shirt embroidered with colourful stitching, neck wrapped in approximately 30 gleaming brass coils. She looks tall and proud, shoulders sloped back, staring straight ahead, and yet her eyes are wet and red, like she might have just cried.

Focused on the apparent physical effects of the heavy brass coils worn by these "Burmese beauties," the author revealed here for the first time in international media that the rings do not, in fact, elongate the neck; rather, they press down on the chest and clavicle bones. "Each added loop increases pressure downward on the vertebral column," said Keshishian. "Something had to give – and did."

Therein began a profound global fascination with the cultural practices of one of Burma's smallest yet most photographically over-represented tribes: the Kayan. Or technically, the Kayan Lahwi, if we're referring only to the subgroup that wears the brass neck coils (within which there are several more smaller sub-tribes). Around the world, our collective sense of fascination with the Kayan's unique standards of beauty knows no end. And yet, the lives of these people remain shrouded in mystery, misconceptions and vague notions of suffering that the torrents of tourist photos and earnest journalistic forays seem unable to fully unravel.

So, what are we missing?

Keep reading here.........
http://www.chiangmainews.com/ecmn/viewfa.php?id=3893
(Frozen in Time, Stuck in Place: Inside the Controversial World of the "Long Neck" Kayan)

[Somtamnication]

No. They are enslaved. How would you like to be looked at while you are eating a burger in your house?

[isanbirder]

The Long Neck zoos are appalling places in a supposedly modern society, and it is easy to say, Don't visit them. (I went once to see what one was like)

But it's not as easy as that. They are refugees, like so many other Burmese, and have no land on which to grow their food. If people don't visit them, the repulsive entrepreneurs who farm them now would just abandon them, and their last state would be worse than their first.

So what should we do? get on our high horses, and leave them to be abandoned, or visit them, knowing that at least enough of our exorbitant entrance fee would be used to keep their body and soul together?

It's not an easy thing to answer.

[tim armstrong]

I believe that the thai guy who tried to set them up near Pattaya as a tourist attraction a couple of years ago was run out of town by locals who also thought it was appalling. But not sure, I hope that was the case.

[Big Pinkie]

you get a much closer and more intimate look if you visit them in the backstreets of chiang mai

[wym]

Just like feeding elephants brought into urban areas by beggars, or giving money to those cripples and baby/lady (not actually mother and child) pairs owned by the police/mafia and put out to beg in tourist areas - don't.

If you really want to help, find the many genuine NGO/charities that are trying to help and give there, not to their abusive owners.

[GuestHouse]

The question is not should anyone visit, the question is should they be on display in the first place.

These people are refugees under protection of the UNHCR. Thailand is a signatory to the UNHCR and as such is obliged to obey the principles on the treatment of refugees.

One of which is that refugees should not be placed on show or display.

The failing here is two fold - Thailand has failed to abide by its obligations (well there's a tourist Baht to be made) AND the UNHCR has failed repeatedly and over many years to call Thailand to task on this.

Visiting is a personal choice - but it absolutely is taking part in the abuse of other human beings.

As the Thais like to say UP2U

Sadly too many don't care so long as they get their own Facebook moment and tragically the Thai government don't give a shit so long as they get the tourist Baht.

What the Fkcu the UNHCR have as an excuse is anyone's guess.

[JusMe]

Visiting is a personal choice - but it absolutely is taking part in the abuse of other human beings.

I came close a number of years back, riding a motorbike into the hills and came across one of the display villages. Surrounded by tour vans and shops, the village was restricted to those who paid to get in.

And you know it wasn't the villagers who collected that fee!

It was a human zoo, clearly the abuse of human beings, and I refused to enter then, recommend that no one visit now, and will never go there myself.

[johnnynmonic]

I went to Ban Nai Soi once...never again. A little zoo for people.

Many of the long-necked women in that "village" (the place seemed to have been built wholly to house this tourist attraction) were young ladies who came from Burma and of the same language group as the real Kayin long-necks. These took being a long-neck tourist attraction in Thailand to be a better career than whatever was available in their home villages. (source: was traveling with an especially gabby Burmese guy who spoke their language and chatted them up while we were there).

[uptheos]

Just like feeding elephants brought into urban areas by beggars, or giving money to those cripples and baby/lady (not actually mother and child) pairs owned by the police/mafia and put out to beg in tourist areas - don't.

If you really want to help, find the many genuine NGO/charities that are trying to help and give there, not to their abusive owners.

Genuine being the operative word.

Lots of NGO's in CM and if only funders knew where...............

Regarding the Long Neck's, I guess it's an individual choice.....but I would not go to their place.

[rabbitrabbit]

Did anyone read the original article I posted? It addresses most if not all of your comments/questions: http://www.chiangmainews.com/ecmn/viewfa.php?id=3893

[connda]

Two reasons to visit:

1. You're into freak shows

2. You're into anthropology.

I've never been. Read about them in National Geographic many, many moons ago. That's good enough for me.

[phuketrichard]

the thai government allows them refugee status to remain in Thailand. BUT does not support them at all, They earn $$ by selling goods to tourists and that is the ONLY money they receive.

many have relocated to the states near Mae Hong Son. Ban Nai Soi first visited in 2001, back many times as have made some friends an last visit (July this year) the village is empty, last visit in 2010 they were charging 250 of which the majority did not go to the villagers

They are not forced into the rings an when i aksed many of them how they feel about it, they all said, " better than staying in Burma"

same as should one visit burma before

its a hard call

[janpharma]

Don't go visit them...it's only commercial business...they seem to live as a tribe but it's only a job... although it seems very primitive they aslo charge cell phone batteries and so on ...don't get ripped off buy paying an expensive entrance ticket...

[Ulic]

Just like feeding elephants brought into urban areas by beggars, or giving money to those cripples and baby/lady (not actually mother and child) pairs owned by the police/mafia and put out to beg in tourist areas - don't.

If you really want to help, find the many genuine NGO/charities that are trying to help and give there, not to their abusive owners.

The problem is most NGO/charities including the UN driving around in there new Land Rovers, are just as big a scam.

Huge salaries, big expense accounts, everything first class. Nothing to good for them. From airline tickets to hotels.

Many of these charities spend 90% plus on overhead. They justify that saying buy saying the 2-10 % that gets through to the

needy is better than nothing. As far as I am concerned I prefer my money to go to the bum on the street. Many scams

there as well but I can make the call myself on weather I think its genuine.

[Mudcrab]

Stick to a long neck Chang or Leo

[scubascuba3]

I visited them during a 3 day trek in Mao Hong Song, back in 98 I think. No fee as far as I remember, we stayed in their huts overnight. Think I spent the grand total of 30 baht on a coca cola. The stalls gave them an opportunity to make money for themselves. I enjoyed the experience. I thought the women looked very elegant, must be a long neck thing.

[hellodolly]

I believe that the thai guy who tried to set them up near Pattaya as a tourist attraction a couple of years ago was run out of town by locals who also thought it was appalling. But not sure, I hope that was the case.

and just what did you and the locals do to help them afford food and clothing?

More than likely let them die while you run around patting yourselves on the back.

That is the problem with do gooders hide the problem and move on to their next crusade never mind the trail of destruction behind them that they have fixed so no one can see it.

I am not condemning the people who make it possible for them to live a life even tho it is by being on display. It is a lot better than what they would have if they went back to their homeland or were being given by the dogooders.

[laislica]

Did anyone read the original article I posted? It addresses most if not all of your comments/questions: http://www.chiangmainews.com/ecmn/viewfa.php?id=3893

Yes, I read every word and I wish that I had done so before a tour that I went on paid one village a visit.

I would have been more generous with my Tourists Baht to the actual village people.

We did talk to some of the villages but English was not easy for them.

We did leave some money in the donations boxes but how mush went to the villages is anyone's idea.

The whole thing is deplorable and it does seem to exist so a few can make profit from the many slaves.

However, it is what it is and they prefer life there to their homeland.

I say spread this link and encourage tourists to be generous to the actual villages.

As the article says, To Visit or Not to Visit?

That is the question. And ultimately, the answer is up to you.

But if you do visit, here are some ground rules collected from the Kayan themselves:

Talk to the villagers.

Some don't speak much English, but a few words and smiles can go a long way.

Not only that, but they have lived through things you probably can't imagine.

They have stories to tell. Ask them to share.

Buy some souvenirs.

The Kayan make a living by selling their wares.

Other than that, they're barely scraping by on the meager "salaries" they receive from the authorities.

Most families are surviving on 2,000 baht a month, or much less.

Sure you might find souvenirs cheaper elsewhere, but save your bartering for the Night Bazaar.

Ask before you photograph.

How would you like it if people were constantly walking up to you and snapping photos in your face without so much as a hello?

If you want to take photos, first you should introduce yourself and ask for permission.

And if you're not going to buy anything, tipping for photos is a must.

Bring something to offer.

While not required, this is a nice gesture.

Some rice, books, art supplies or toys for the children, maybe even a game you can play together.

Be polite.

You're a guest.

Ask before entering someone's home. Take off your shoes if you do. Say please and thank you. Smile.