Full service on a 4x4 2.5 Diesel pickup

[Steps]

I have just bought an 8 year old Mazda Fighter 4x4 2.5 Turbo Diesel Pickup Truck and want to give it the full hit for piece of mind. This vehicle has 136,000 on the clock (not sure if that's miles or KM). I would like to know what the full hit will consist of and if there are any recommendations for other things to change/replace.

I have a fair idea:

1. oil and filter
2. fuel filter
3. air filter and re-gas the unit as it is not that cool
4. AC Filter
5. transmission oil
6. Differential oil
7. Bleed brake and clutch oil
8. Wiper rubbers

Did i miss anything?

I am also going to replace

1. brake pads and rear drum pads and possibly disks and drums
2. 3 electric window motors that are slow
3. central locking motor that only locks the 2 front doors

Is there anything else you would recommend replacing?

Would you recommend taking this vehicle to the Mazda dealership garage or would i be just as good to take it to a roadside garage that looked decent?

All input appreciated

[Jitar]

It will be 136,000 km which is OK for one of these trucks, assuming it is correct. You already have a pretty good plan for the service. Have you checked the Mazda service schedule? Couple of additional things you could check:below.

I think Ford / Mazda used a timing belt around this era. If so, you should check if it has been changed at 100,000km.

The EGR valve should be cleaned every 40,000km or something similar so it may be due.

Thailand can be hard on rubber so a good inspection of the accessory belts and hoses is a good idea. Also check the inlet ducting and air-cleaner enclosure. Turbos die fast if there is a leak after the air-cleaner.

Check H4 and L4 engage and disengage OK. There are a few switches and a vacuum servo for the front axle disconnect / auto free hubs that sometimes stick. Have a look at the half shaft CV boots, especially if the truck has been used as a 4WD. If the drive shaft uni's have grease nipples try to get them greased.

I would also check the head lights, the older Ford Ranger we had as a work truck couldn't dazzle a dim candle.

Our Ford's steering was always a bit vague, assume the Mazda is the same. If in doubt check front ball joints & tyres and give it an alignment.

The dealer or independent mechanic choice is pretty much down to who you know and the quality of your local dealers mechanics. The Mazda dealer we use has been OK for services but we use an independent shops for brakes and anything more substantial. The independent shops will give you more options for non-genuine parts if you want to save some cost.

Happy travels with your Mazda.

[Steps]

It will be 136,000 km which is OK for one of these trucks, assuming it is correct. You already have a pretty good plan for the service. Have you checked the Mazda service schedule? Couple of additional things you could check:below.

I think Ford / Mazda used a timing belt around this era. If so, you should check if it has been changed at 100,000km.

The EGR valve should be cleaned every 40,000km or something similar so it may be due.

Thailand can be hard on rubber so a good inspection of the accessory belts and hoses is a good idea. Also check the inlet ducting and air-cleaner enclosure. Turbos die fast if there is a leak after the air-cleaner.

Check H4 and L4 engage and disengage OK. There are a few switches and a vacuum servo for the front axle disconnect / auto free hubs that sometimes stick. Have a look at the half shaft CV boots, especially if the truck has been used as a 4WD. If the drive shaft uni's have grease nipples try to get them greased.

I would also check the head lights, the older Ford Ranger we had as a work truck couldn't dazzle a dim candle.

Our Ford's steering was always a bit vague, assume the Mazda is the same. If in doubt check front ball joints & tyres and give it an alignment.

The dealer or independent mechanic choice is pretty much down to who you know and the quality of your local dealers mechanics. The Mazda dealer we use has been OK for services but we use an independent shops for brakes and anything more substantial. The independent shops will give you more options for non-genuine parts if you want to save some cost.

Happy travels with your Mazda.

Great feedback Jitar,

One thing i have most definitely noticed is the unresponsive steering. It needs a an alignment that's for sure but i have a feeling that there is something else not quite right. Front ball joints? Maybe! I hope the mechanics would pick up on something like this during the service!! How would i check the front ball joints out on my own?

Thinking about the headlights, i was coming back from Bangkok the other day and had to get my face right up to the windscreen at one point. Bad lighting on the road?...........................Yes, but i think your right, maybe the headlights need a tweak or replacement?

I am just doing a search now for a service schedule and manual.

Thank you

[transam]

If you have a dodgy ball joint you will feel it through the steering wheel, perhaps even hear it.

[Steps]

If you have a dodgy ball joint you will feel it through the steering wheel, perhaps even hear it.

Well the steering shakes after at about 70 and i was guessing that that might be the wheels needing balancing?

[transam]

If you have a dodgy ball joint you will feel it through the steering wheel, perhaps even hear it.

Well the steering shakes after at about 70 and i was guessing that that might be the wheels needing balancing?

Yep, get the tracking checked and wheels balanced. They can check joints etc when the wheels are off. Tracking to be done last........

[Jitar]

Ford & Mazda used old style recirculating ball steering which has a few more joints and does not feel as nice as the newer rack and pinion systems, but is still OK if everything is in good condition.

You can check the tie rods by lifting the front wheels and rocking them to check for clearance. Rocking the steering wheel and watching the free play in the linkage also works.

Wheel shake might be wheel balance, tyres or brake disc run-out as well but a good tyre / alignment shop should be able to fix it.

[Jitar]

Steps if you don't have the Mazda service schedule, Ford's web site has the 2006-2011 Ranger service items at

http://www.ford.co.th/en/ford-owners/services/maintenance#overlay=1248947598422

The lists are in Thai but you can guess or use google translate etc. Your Mazda should be similar.

[Steps]

Steps if you don't have the Mazda service schedule, Ford's web site has the 2006-2011 Ranger service items at

http://www.ford.co.th/en/ford-owners/services/maintenance#overlay=1248947598422

The lists are in Thai but you can guess or use google translate etc. Your Mazda should be similar.

Thanks for the link. I have had a look through with the missus to make sure everything is covered. I want to know what to check after the service has been done so i actually know it has been done.

Cheers

[wilcopops]

Check steering - ball joints

suspension - shocks and bushes

Shocks

Wheel bearings

Alternator

Air con compressor

Check all belts and pulleys

Check Turbo

clutch

Have you made sure there 4x4 is working?

all these parts if ignored previosly could show wear by now.

you'll be amazed ay how properly balanced wheels tires and new shocks can make a car feel like new.

[Steps]

Check steering - ball joints

suspension - shocks and bushes

Shocks

Wheel bearings

Alternator

Air con compressor

Check all belts and pulleys

Check Turbo

clutch

Have you made sure there 4x4 is working?

all these parts if ignored previosly could show wear by now.

you'll be amazed ay how properly balanced wheels tires and new shocks can make a car feel like new.

Your last point about balancing the wheels, new tires and shocks interests me and was gona get a new post as i plan to lift the truck maybe 6inches and get bigger wheels on it. If i done this, would i need to get new suspension to match the lift?

P.S. The 4x4 is working

Thanks

[wilcopops]

Check steering - ball joints

suspension - shocks and bushes

Shocks

Wheel bearings

Alternator

Air con compressor

Check all belts and pulleys

Check Turbo

clutch

Have you made sure there 4x4 is working?

all these parts if ignored previosly could show wear by now.

you'll be amazed ay how properly balanced wheels tires and new shocks can make a car feel like new.

Your last point about balancing the wheels, new tires and shocks interests me and was gona get a new post as i plan to lift the truck maybe 6inches and get bigger wheels on it. If i done this, would i need to get new suspension to match the lift?

P.S. The 4x4 is working

Thanks

Lifting 6 inches?

Yes, you'll need to sort out the front especially. Lifting the rear presents no real problems, (The rear axle will need tilting to keep in line with any mods to) - but the front has all the transmission, suspension and steering to contend with. Independent front suspension (as on the current pickups) presents more complications than a plain beam axle.

You might also consider whether you need locking diffs etc.

Normally in a lift you have to think about what kind of wheels and tires you are going to fit and what height they need to be to clear the body work - this of course varies with. make of vehicle.

You need to keep alignments etc.

I quoted someone about 150 to 200k for the full monty on a lift of about 6 inches.

[Steps]

Check steering - ball joints

suspension - shocks and bushes

Shocks

Wheel bearings

Alternator

Air con compressor

Check all belts and pulleys

Check Turbo

clutch

Have you made sure there 4x4 is working?

all these parts if ignored previosly could show wear by now.

you'll be amazed ay how properly balanced wheels tires and new shocks can make a car feel like new.

Your last point about balancing the wheels, new tires and shocks interests me and was gona get a new post as i plan to lift the truck maybe 6inches and get bigger wheels on it. If i done this, would i need to get new suspension to match the lift?

P.S. The 4x4 is working

Thanks

Lifting 6 inches?

Yes, you'll need to sort out the front especially. Lifting the rear presents no real problems, (The rear axle will need tilting to keep in line with any mods to) - but the front has all the transmission, suspension and steering to contend with. Independent front suspension (as on the current pickups) presents more complications than a plain beam axle.

You might also consider whether you need locking diffs etc.

Normally in a lift you have to think about what kind of wheels and tires you are going to fit and what height they need to be to clear the body work - this of course varies with. make of vehicle.

You need to keep alignments etc.

I quoted someone about 150 to 200k for the full monty on a lift of about 6 inches.

Holy Sh*t, I didn't realize it was that expensive. Maybe i will make that the very last project. What kind of wheels and tire size are you looking at for a 6inch lift? and how much would tires cost?

Thanks

[wilcopops]

Check steering - ball joints

suspension - shocks and bushes

Shocks

Wheel bearings

Alternator

Air con compressor

Check all belts and pulleys

Check Turbo

clutch

Have you made sure there 4x4 is working?

all these parts if ignored previosly could show wear by now.

you'll be amazed ay how properly balanced wheels tires and new shocks can make a car feel like new.

Your last point about balancing the wheels, new tires and shocks interests me and was gona get a new post as i plan to lift the truck maybe 6inches and get bigger wheels on it. If i done this, would i need to get new suspension to match the lift?

P.S. The 4x4 is working

Thanks

Lifting 6 inches?

Yes, you'll need to sort out the front especially. Lifting the rear presents no real problems, (The rear axle will need tilting to keep in line with any mods to) - but the front has all the transmission, suspension and steering to contend with. Independent front suspension (as on the current pickups) presents more complications than a plain beam axle.

You might also consider whether you need locking diffs etc.

Normally in a lift you have to think about what kind of wheels and tires you are going to fit and what height they need to be to clear the body work - this of course varies with. make of vehicle.

You need to keep alignments etc.

I quoted someone about 150 to 200k for the full monty on a lift of about 6 inches.

Holy Sh*t, I didn't realize it was that expensive. Maybe i will make that the very last project. What kind of wheels and tire size are you looking at for a 6inch lift? and how much would tires cost?

Thanks

You get what you pay for.

A lot would depend on what you intend to do with the vehicle. I use mine for a lot of long distance touring and a lot of that has been on very poor - even non-existent roads in both Thailand and Laos.

I don't know what size tires you can fit on your model - it depends on the raise to some extent and the original wheel arch/steering geometry on your vehicle.

If you are going to be off-road a lot you might consider getting steel wheels made up - that would cost about 12 to 15 k for the set. (alloys are about the same price.) - you most probably could use the original wheels ....but my set of Goodrich LT295/75R16(AT) were about 8000 baht each. I'm sure you can get cheaper if you buy Thai - Maxxis - or similar.

I'm not sure how much travel is available on the Ford/Mazda front suspension and how much lift is available without lowering the front diff/axle assembly.....that's when you need a lift kit.

​if you are serious about join off-road you might want to consider changing front and rear bars and fitting tow bars and winch.

PM me if you want some ideas on want can be done. I have a couple of places i'm in league with who can give you a quote.

what part of the country are you in?