Mike45 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 I just took a look at the drain the plumper put in for my laundry. Its 10 inches off the floor and comes out of the wall horizontally it doesn't have u- trap. I was planned on buying a top load washing machine and now realize that they don't pump water out like the USA machines I'm accustomed to. I looked at the instructions with a top loader at home pro. Its basically shows the hose laying on the floor with a slight rise at the end but still dumping on the floor. How do I get my drain pipe setup (u-trap, height, etc) to allow it to work with a top loader machine. In my photo you can see the washer pipes to the lower right of the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lopburi3 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Looks as if there is still a hole in the wall so easy enough to cut pipe off and have at floor level. Normally there are no U traps installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike45 Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Looks as if there is still a hole in the wall so easy enough to cut pipe off and have at floor level. Normally there are no U traps installed. Unfortunately its been concreted closed already.I'd like to figure out the right way the first time. I had a problem with a washer that had a pump in my last place. The drain was in the floor. The pipe was barely large enough to fit the drain hose in. It caused a vacuum problem and water wouldn't drain out of the machine without pulling the hose out to break the vacuum causing all the water in the hose to drain out. I'm convinced that whatever I end up with needs to have an air break. I would also like the drain to be odor free. Question is how to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 My top loader will not empty with a raised outlet, l had to fix it at ground level... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 I think some brands (like Samsung) do have drain pumps for top loaders. It sounds like you haven't bought a washer as yet, so just get a front loader or a top loader with a pump. Why create an issue when you can avoid it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 I think some brands (like Samsung) do have drain pumps for top loaders. It sounds like you haven't bought a washer as yet, so just get a front loader or a top loader with a pump. Why create an issue when you can avoid it? My TL has a pump, I can hear it, but it will not pump out a raised outlet to clear ALL the water. If it doesn't clear all the water it stinks in a day or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwonitoy Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 I've got an Electrolux top loader that pumps out to a raised outlet, no problems in four years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 If you all didn't know... most countries have codes that specify laundry standpipe up to 42" with minimum 18" and some 6". Maybe Thailand needs to spew out the drain on the floor, but any 'international' machine will pump it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike45 Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 I think some brands (like Samsung) do have drain pumps for top loaders. It sounds like you haven't bought a washer as yet, so just get a front loader or a top loader with a pump. Why create an issue when you can avoid it?I went to HomePro. They told me all top loaders drained out and front loaders pumped out. We specifically liked a Samsung top loader so I looked at the manual. It showed the drain hose at floor level.My wife has had both top and front loaders. She prefers top but those were USA machines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMHO Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 As others have noted, just get your workers to bang out their patchwork and get an elbow in/close to floor level - the drain pipe from the machine can then be fed into the PVC pipe so water exits it below floor level, so no worries about it spilling back out. Shouldn't be much more than 30 mins work, including re-patching the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike45 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 As others have noted, just get your workers to bang out their patchwork and get an elbow in/close to floor level - the drain pipe from the machine can then be fed into the PVC pipe so water exits it below floor level, so no worries about it spilling back out. Shouldn't be much more than 30 mins work, including re-patching the wall.Do you think it needs a U trap for sewer gases? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 As others have noted, just get your workers to bang out their patchwork and get an elbow in/close to floor level - the drain pipe from the machine can then be fed into the PVC pipe so water exits it below floor level, so no worries about it spilling back out. Shouldn't be much more than 30 mins work, including re-patching the wall. Thats what I had to do, except I put the elbow through the lid of a drain cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike45 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Looks as if there is still a hole in the wall so easy enough to cut pipe off and have at floor level. Normally there are no U traps installed. This is what I am accustomed to seeing as a properly plumbed western washer. There is always a trap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lopburi3 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I know but normally it is not used here. The machine should block back gas if drain fitted into pipe and you could extend outside pipe up wall higher as a vent to prevent any slow drain issues (no air lock). Most directly drain into open drainage so air block is not an issue but do not know your situation and air vents are always a good idea if above head level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogers Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Local top load machines drain by gravity flow. Get your plumber to correct drain through wall at floor level, and build a plinth 5cm high to place your machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaiFelix Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 I had the same problem in a Bangkok rental a few years ago. Bought a top loader thinking it had a pump like back home but it didnt. The outlet was incorporated in the side of a cupboard 30cm above floor and being a rental we couldn't modify it. Good hearted neighbour came up with a solution by welding up a steel stand 30cm high to stand the washing machine on. Worked just fine except the wife had to stand on one of those little plastic stools to unload it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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