Linking a switch to a power socket..?

[JungleBiker]

I'll have an extractor fan high up in the wall - beyond reach, without a ladder. I'm thinking to have a power socket near to the fan so that I can plug the fan into that socket. Then I'd like to bring wires down the wall to another "box" embedded in the wall. In that box I'd like to have a switch so that I can switch the fan on-and-off. Will this be okay or not? I'm concerned that perhaps switches are only intended to be used for lights and not linked to power sockets.

Also, is it okay to have the power cable go into the switch box and then up to the socket for the fan, or should the power cable go directly to the fan socket and then have another cable going from the fan socket to the switch box? If either way is acceptable, I'll go with the first way because it means only one cable going up the wall to the socket.

Thanks.

JB

[Tywais]

You can get AC boxes with the socket and switch combined in it pretty cheap and easily available such as Global house, Home Pro, etc. Just run the live to the box and plug the fan into the socket and can turn it off/on easily. I have several distributed and mounted in our kitchen as the house had insufficient outlets and I wanted all the electrical appliances switchable.

[Water Buffalo]

Switches can be used for anything.

The first way is fine.

[Tywais]

Mine looks similar to this one but with Thai style 3 prong sockets.

[bankruatsteve]

Not sure why you want to plug in the fan? Since you are switching, you can wire direct to the fan wires (cut off the plug). Either way should only need one 2-wire cable to/from the fan and switch.

[lopburi3]

Makes it easier to change the fan if required? And yes normal wall switch used here should be fine for fan - but switch will have an amperage rating and care should be taken not to exceed that (or even come close).

[Crossy]

We have exactly this arrangement.

Extractor fan on a switch next to the light switch (powered by the lighting circuit), single socket next to the fan location with the fan plugged in.

No issues whatever, if in the UK you should put a "Fan Only" label on the socket.

[IMHO]

We have exactly this arrangement.

Extractor fan on a switch next to the light switch (powered by the lighting circuit), single socket next to the fan location with the fan plugged in.

No issues whatever, if in the UK you should put a "Fan Only" label on the socket.

Why the "fan only" label Crossy? Is there something about running it through a standard 16A "lighting" switch that negates plugging in some other type of load?

Serious Q BTW, I have plans to do the same sort of thing for my powered speakers, so the whole power-up/power-down sequence is a little more convenient (signal on first, off last <--> speakers on last/off first).

Edited July 16, 2014 by IMHO

[Crossy]

It's a UK thing, you wouldn't understand

But don't expect me to either

Actually, most UK lighting circuits are fused at 6A so plugging in a 3kW heater would pop the breaker.

[jacko45k]

We have exactly this arrangement.

Extractor fan on a switch next to the light switch (powered by the lighting circuit), single socket next to the fan location with the fan plugged in.

No issues whatever, if in the UK you should put a "Fan Only" label on the socket.

Why the "fan only" label Crossy? Is there something about running it through a standard 16A "lighting" switch that negates plugging in some other type of load?

A bit like the 'shaver only' sockets in hotel bathrooms.

[laobali]

Domestic extractor fans are usually only 40-50W - less than old light bulbs or tubes. Unless you've got an industrial extractor, using the lighting circuit and switch is not really an issue.

[Rorri]

Not sure why you want to plug in the fan? Since you are switching, you can wire direct to the fan wires (cut off the plug). Either way should only need one 2-wire cable to/from the fan and switch.

Makes for easy/safer replacement of the fan.

[wazzi]

Domestic extractor fans are usually only 40-50W - less than old light bulbs or tubes. Unless you've got an industrial extractor, using the lighting circuit and switch is not really an issue.

True, it will work but , If the light circuit is used for this purpose then the socket should be clearly marked Fan Only or designed to only accept the fan plug ( here in Aus we can use a special plug and socket for this purpose ) It is not acceptable and is illegal in lots of countries to put a general use power socket on a light circuit.

[laobali]

Domestic extractor fans are usually only 40-50W - less than old light bulbs or tubes. Unless you've got an industrial extractor, using the lighting circuit and switch is not really an issue.

True, it will work but , If the light circuit is used for this purpose then the socket should be clearly marked Fan Only or designed to only accept the fan plug ( here in Aus we can use a special plug and socket for this purpose ) It is not acceptable and is illegal in lots of countries to put a general use power socket on a light circuit.

That may well be, but we are talking about Thailand, right?

[Varangkul]

Where is the extractor fan located? If it is in the bathroom then switches should all be outside the room, or activated by a "pull-strng"

Additionally, the reason why "Shaver' sockets are so marked is because they are normally located within the bathroom complex, and are highly fused.

Edited July 16, 2014 by Varangkul

[RichCor]

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned... make sure the switch is on the verified LOAD/LINE side of the circuit.

I've experienced too many surprising/excitable moments during my time here because someone wired a switch (or breaker) on the neutral side

[wayned]

In the US some of the rooms , bedrooms, living rooms, dens, etc., do not have overhead lights. They have one or two wall sockets that are switchable using a switch in the normal location. You have to plug a suitable, asthetially pleasing, table lamp or other lamp into the socket to get light in the room.

Most of the houses are wired with 12/3 romex throughout and smaller wire is not used for lighting. The CU is usually configured with one circuit breaker for each room and there is no seperation between lights and power circuits.

Installing a switchable outlet for your fan using standard switches should not be a problem

[Crossy]

As noted above, it would be fine in the UK, so it will be fine in Thailand. We even allow sockets in the bathroom in the UK now.

[ericthai]

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned... make sure the switch is on the verified LOAD/LINE side of the circuit.

I've experienced too many surprising/excitable moments during my time here because someone wired a switch (or breaker) on the neutral side

Yes, Very good comment. If you run the neutral line through the switch and not the load line then anyone touching this can get a shock.

So you understand, on the switch there is only a connection for one wire. Also make sure the switch is rated for the amps that the fan

will draw.

[Jaggg88]

<script type='text/javascript'>window.mod_pagespeed_start = Number(new Date());</script>

Domestic extractor fans are usually only 40-50W - less than old light bulbs or tubes. Unless you've got an industrial extractor, using the lighting circuit and switch is not really an issue.

True, it will work but , If the light circuit is used for this purpose then the socket should be clearly marked Fan Only or designed to only accept the fan plug ( here in Aus we can use a special plug and socket for this purpose ) It is not acceptable and is illegal in lots of countries to put a general use power socket on a light circuit.

That may well be, but we are talking about Thailand, right? alt=biggrin.png>

We use a smaller plug here in the UK too or at least we used too. A better solution would be to cut the plug off and hard wire the fan into a fused switch - harder to change the fan but a cleaner safer solution.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/Flat+Plate+Polished+Chrome+Wiring+Accessories/Flat+Polished+Chrome+Fused+Spur+13A+Switched++Neon++Flex+Outlet/d190/sd2760/p30348

[sandyf]

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned... make sure the switch is on the verified LOAD/LINE side of the circuit.

I've experienced too many surprising/excitable moments during my time here because someone wired a switch (or breaker) on the neutral side

Door bells are normally switched on the neutral.

[sandyf]

We have exactly this arrangement.

Extractor fan on a switch next to the light switch (powered by the lighting circuit), single socket next to the fan location with the fan plugged in.

No issues whatever, if in the UK you should put a "Fan Only" label on the socket.

Why the "fan only" label Crossy? Is there something about running it through a standard 16A "lighting" switch that negates plugging in some other type of load?

Serious Q BTW, I have plans to do the same sort of thing for my powered speakers, so the whole power-up/power-down sequence is a little more convenient (signal on first, off last <--> speakers on last/off first).

Sockets that have a reduced power capacity should be marked to that effect.

[sandyf]

<script type='text/javascript'>window.mod_pagespeed_start = Number(new Date());</script>

Domestic extractor fans are usually only 40-50W - less than old light bulbs or tubes. Unless you've got an industrial extractor, using the lighting circuit and switch is not really an issue.

True, it will work but , If the light circuit is used for this purpose then the socket should be clearly marked Fan Only or designed to only accept the fan plug ( here in Aus we can use a special plug and socket for this purpose ) It is not acceptable and is illegal in lots of countries to put a general use power socket on a light circuit.

That may well be, but we are talking about Thailand, right? alt=biggrin.png>

We use a smaller plug here in the UK too or at least we used too. A better solution would be to cut the plug off and hard wire the fan into a fused switch - harder to change the fan but a cleaner safer solution.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/Flat+Plate+Polished+Chrome+Wiring+Accessories/Flat+Polished+Chrome+Fused+Spur+13A+Switched++Neon++Flex+Outlet/d190/sd2760/p30348

Showing your age now, the old 5A plugs went out with the Ark.

[KhnomKhnom]

Your AC source can go to the switch first. Best to use a Double Pole Single Throw switch and that allows you to kill both the hot and neutral sides of the incoming line. Two wires run up to the fan from the switch. There you can mount a socket or just wire the fan directly into the two wires from the switch.

The problem with a Single Pole Single Throw switch is that does not accommodate any mistaken switching of the incoming AC source electricity. Normally, this Single Pole switch would kill the hot line, but better to kill both sides of the incoming AC source.

The rating on the switch should exceed the power rating of the fan. 16 or 14 AWG size wire is ok with both sides of the line same size wires.

I hope you know more than this simple message. If not, hire the work done.

[thomasteve]

Where is the extractor fan located? If it is in the bathroom then switches should all be outside the room, or activated by a "pull-strng"

Additionally, the reason why "Shaver' sockets are so marked is because they are normally located within the bathroom complex, and are highly fused.

Not so much highly fused but they were (still are ?) expensive if intended for use near water as they had an integral isolating transformer for the ultimate in safety.

[IMHO]

We have exactly this arrangement.

Extractor fan on a switch next to the light switch (powered by the lighting circuit), single socket next to the fan location with the fan plugged in.

No issues whatever, if in the UK you should put a "Fan Only" label on the socket.

Why the "fan only" label Crossy? Is there something about running it through a standard 16A "lighting" switch that negates plugging in some other type of load?

Serious Q BTW, I have plans to do the same sort of thing for my powered speakers, so the whole power-up/power-down sequence is a little more convenient (signal on first, off last <--> speakers on last/off first).

Sockets that have a reduced power capacity should be marked to that effect.

If using a 16AX rated switch to control a 16A socket, with 4mm2 THW used throughout and connected to a 16A breaker, what what be the reduced capacity?

(Again, serious Q! The load I plan to put on each of these is around 1,600 watts at peak, ~600 watts avg).

Edited July 16, 2014 by IMHO

[sandyf]

We have exactly this arrangement.

Extractor fan on a switch next to the light switch (powered by the lighting circuit), single socket next to the fan location with the fan plugged in.

No issues whatever, if in the UK you should put a "Fan Only" label on the socket.

Why the "fan only" label Crossy? Is there something about running it through a standard 16A "lighting" switch that negates plugging in some other type of load?

Serious Q BTW, I have plans to do the same sort of thing for my powered speakers, so the whole power-up/power-down sequence is a little more convenient (signal on first, off last <--> speakers on last/off first).

Sockets that have a reduced power capacity should be marked to that effect.

If using a 16AX rated switch to control a 16A socket, with 4mm2 THW used throughout and connected to a 16A breaker, what what be the reduced capacity?

(Again, serious Q! The load I plan to put on each of these is around 1,600 watts at peak, ~600 watts avg).

There wouldn't be any reduced capacity. Standard wall sockets are rated at 13A, equivalent to a 3Kw load. Rule of thumb is 4A per Kw. Just have to be cautious with highly inductive loads that may have a high starting current but a breaker would normally prevent any damage.

[hugh2121]

By all means plug into a switched socket but first check the current rating for the switch against current used by the fan. In this instance I would prefer to use a switchless socket (most Thai switches are flimsy) and install a fan with a pull cord operated switch. That way an earth would not be necessary if the fan has a metal case but mounted out of reach. Most appliances in Thailand, even those with metal cases do not seem to have an earth wire connected to the plug but many have a terminal to connect an earth wire. Safety first. Check toasters, kettles, irons etc. on sale. 99% are unsafe and would not be permitted in Europe. A two pin plug is a dead (pun intended) giveaway. Most electrical equipment "Made in China" horrifies me.

I am a qualified electrical engineer and a qualified electronics engineer. I hope this post helps some people who are not as aware of electrical safety.

[sandyf]

By all means plug into a switched socket but first check the current rating for the switch against current used by the fan. In this instance I would prefer to use a switchless socket (most Thai switches are flimsy) and install a fan with a pull cord operated switch. That way an earth would not be necessary if the fan has a metal case but mounted out of reach. Most appliances in Thailand, even those with metal cases do not seem to have an earth wire connected to the plug but many have a terminal to connect an earth wire. Safety first. Check toasters, kettles, irons etc. on sale. 99% are unsafe and would not be permitted in Europe. A two pin plug is a dead (pun intended) giveaway. Most electrical equipment "Made in China" horrifies me.

I am a qualified electrical engineer and a qualified electronics engineer. I hope this post helps some people who are not as aware of electrical safety.

Good advice but a bit misleading on the plugs. With double insulation two pin is an acceptable format and cannot be taken as a no go appliance. These days 2 pin plugs are fairly common in the UK. By 2 pin, I mean the standard UK 3 pin construction but with a plastic earth pin.

[thomasteve]

By all means plug into a switched socket but first check the current rating for the switch against current used by the fan. In this instance I would prefer to use a switchless socket (most Thai switches are flimsy) and install a fan with a pull cord operated switch. That way an earth would not be necessary if the fan has a metal case but mounted out of reach. Most appliances in Thailand, even those with metal cases do not seem to have an earth wire connected to the plug but many have a terminal to connect an earth wire. Safety first. Check toasters, kettles, irons etc. on sale. 99% are unsafe and would not be permitted in Europe. A two pin plug is a dead (pun intended) giveaway. Most electrical equipment "Made in China" horrifies me.

I am a qualified electrical engineer and a qualified electronics engineer. I hope this post helps some people who are not as aware of electrical safety.

Good advice but a bit misleading on the plugs. With double insulation two pin is an acceptable format and cannot be taken as a no go appliance. These days 2 pin plugs are fairly common in the UK. By 2 pin, I mean the standard UK 3 pin construction but with a plastic earth pin.

The reference was to toasters, kettles and irons though and the majority of those are of insulation class1 and do require earthing.