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Brake upgrade on Fortuner.


fredob43

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Stopping distance remains the same.Overbraked Now. Waste of Money. But the Plastic Brembo Covers look nice.thumbsup.gif

I beg to differ. I put a BJmotors/runstop kit (320mm rears, 350mm fronts) onto my old Colorado pickup, the brakes on it were terrible with the 20" wheels (put the stockers on and it was tolerable).

Fitted this package and it stopped very well with the 20" wheels, infact it stopped a lot earlier than the oem with stock wheel. and before you say Iam lying, part of my employment is testing brake, tyre and suspension upgrade packages for the vehicle's we sell (who woulda thought that by adding 1000kg of armour to a vehicle it might need upgraded brakes/tyres and suspension).

I don'tt know if upgrading the rear brakes is good or bad but would not jump to conclusions. Hopefully Runstop are smart enough to design the rear disc brake setup to avoid dramatic imbalance and allowing the EBD / ABS to do its job.

Many current pickups and PPVs use EBD and may not have a hydraulic proportioning valve. Spoonman, do you know any details about EBD with your company brake upgrades? Do you know if EBD compensates and keeps the correct brake bias if only the rear brakes are upgraded like Fred and Thailoht?

It would be interesting to compare the brake systems on the Colorado pickup with drum rears and the Trailblazer with discs to see what differences GM made. Wonder if the EBD settings are the same.

Thailoht, if your rear brakes are wearing faster and your MU7 does have a proportioning valve and not EBD, the proportioning valve may need to be changed. Pickups used load sensing proportioning valves. If your MU7 has one, the bias may be able to be adjusted but the valves also use a low threshold pressure for the front discs to apply the rears first. That is why cars with disc/drum set ups used different valves to disc/disc.

Thanks a lot for the informative post and expanding our insight into this subject!

My MU-7 is 4x4 and uses the EBD system. I am not clear about whether or not any other relevant sensors are involved. I have separate EBD and ABS dashboard warning lights, though they have never been activated, so I take it the on-board EBD system believes it is operating properly.

To be clear about the whole situation: The rear dual caliper disc pads on the driver's side were equally worn all the way down (almost to the backing plate) but the rear disc pads on the passenger side were all equally only 'slightly more than half worn' and the rubber brake piston dust boots on the calipers on the passenger side have been torn. Both L & R side of the front disc pads show less than half disc pad wear.

I did upgrade to 20" wheels and tyres (from O.E. 16") and was looking to increase the anemic O.E. braking components to compensate for the wheel and tyre upgrade increase. In addition to the rear brake conversion, Run-Stop also installed 330mm front rotors and their disc pads on all brakes.

The OP may want to re-check with Run-Stop about any affect the rear dual caliper disc brake upgrade may have (if any) on the F - R Braking Power Distribution in his Fortuner and what is the exact % of F - R Braking Power Distribution in his vehicle.

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Posted 2014-08-13 16:50:21

I have had my Fortuner Sportivo for about 5 years now, having had the engine tweaked I thought it was about time for a brake upgrade.

Having made several inquiries I settled for a Runstop replacement kit for the rear drums.

Contacted BJ motors BKK [email protected] 022246580-2 very helpful. They wanted an email stating car model year engine wheel size etc I also asked about fitting of same.

Within an hour I had received a reply recommending their 320dics with twin callipers 27,500bt for the kit they also included a photo break down of how it's done looks easy and it is but unless you have all the right pulley's and presses your buggered.

They also recommended a fitting company not 10 minutes from where I live very handy.

After a trip to the fitter to discus the set up I was given a price of 4,000bt for fitting including a rear axle oil change recommended.

Paid a deposit and they ordered the parts this was a Monday afternoon by midday the next day they had receive the kit and Wednesday in I go at just after 8am. All sorted I was home at about 12.30pm after a little run round.

Right was the 31,500bt well spent.

Dose it stop better yes not to easy at first to give an accurate % wise answer just running about town but after just completing a return journey of some 1,000km fully loaded in high temperatures + the usual heavy rain, I can tell you it's fantastic I guesstimate at least 40/50% better.

It does take a bit of getting used to pressure peddle wise at first but after that it's all plain sailing.

Down side.

The hand brake isn't as effective as before on steep hills but an extra click on the handle sorts that out, other than that nothing.

N/B my Sportivo wheels have a 16" internal dimension leaving a gap of some 1.1/4 " between rim and the outside edge of the callipers so whether the standard Fortuner wheels can accommodate this set up I don't know. But what I do know that I should have had it done years ago.

Forgot their wed site it's www.runstopbj.com.

Congrats on your new brakes! I know you are going to enjoy them! clap2.gif

I had the exact same rear caliper brake upgrade kit installed on my brand new MU-7. I could not get to the upgrade center fast enough after I bought it. The improvement in braking was instantaneous and 'quite' noticeable and your description is what I experienced! Now my big MU-7 stops on a dime, with barely any brake pedal effort at all, like a good 4 wheel disc brake vehicle should! It helps me do these LOS mountains like Steve McQueen in, 'Bullit', and performs superbly in rain.

I upgraded to 4 wheel disc brakes because they are better than drum brakes and the brake of choice in higher model, more expensive cars - I would think any auto enthusiast knows that.

As confirmed by the Run-Stop tech, the factory brake bias valve to control the front rear % is factory set and was not been adjusted. They said the factory front rear % for my SUV is 45% - 55%. I have been driving 2 years now (31.5 km total) and I looked at my brake pad wear: The rear disc pads are wearing down faster than the front disc pads in my RWD (4x4 on-the-fly) vehicle.

Surprisingly, the techs also said that their caliper piston rubber dust boots only lasts 1 - 2 years! 2 of the 4 of my rear rubber dust boots are torn!

Thank you for backing up my findings, I did try and put in an informative post but as usual with the motoring section on TV everyone knows better than you do, then without any first hand experience of what's been done or how/if it works just poo poo it out of hand.

I can concur with your statement on pedal pressure you only have to breath on the pedal now and it stops as you say on a dime, hence I said it did take a bit of getting used to. Not to sure about Steve McQueen if I remember right he was in the air more times than he was on the road best of luck with that one.

Regarding the rear pads wearing quicker than the front it could be something quite simple like softer pads that would equate for the difference in wear and not necessarily the Bias Valve setting.

But I would have them looked at regarding as to why they are not wearing at the same pace.

N/B.

Someone stated the cost was 35,000bt it was actually 31,500bt, and it doesn't have 'bimbo' covers the callipers are silvery just like the ones on the front.

Edited by fredob43
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With all the toing a froing I forgot to put in a bit of trivia.

My Tuna is 5 years old and completed just over 70,000km front pads have less than 20% wear.

But the rear shoes when I inspected them last week during the change were almost shot. So looks like the rears wear a lot quicker on a Tuna than the front's. The brake set up I do believe is the same on the Vigo if it's the same wear wise with those I cant confirm. As said just a bit of trivia but well worth noting.

Edited by fredob43
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With all the toing a froing I forgot to put in a bit of trivia.

My Tuna is 5 years old and completed just over 70,000km front pads have less than 20% wear.

But the rear shoes when I inspected them last week during the change were almost shot. So looks like the rears wear a lot quicker on a Tuna than the front's. The brake set up I do believe is the same on the Vigo if it's the same wear wise with those I cant confirm. As said just a bit of trivia but well worth noting.

Well worth noting indeed! Thanks for the posting! :-)

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My 1988 Volvo Estate was the first car I had with discs all round with ABS. The pad size on the rear were near half the size of the front as the fronts do most of the work.

Rear drum brake shoes usually last a long time, BUT it depends on the material used.

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Stopping distance remains the same.Overbraked Now. Waste of Money. But the Plastic Brembo Covers look nice.thumbsup.gif

I beg to differ. I put a BJmotors/runstop kit (320mm rears, 350mm fronts) onto my old Colorado pickup, the brakes on it were terrible with the 20" wheels (put the stockers on and it was tolerable).

Fitted this package and it stopped very well with the 20" wheels, infact it stopped a lot earlier than the oem with stock wheel. and before you say Iam lying, part of my employment is testing brake, tyre and suspension upgrade packages for the vehicle's we sell (who woulda thought that by adding 1000kg of armour to a vehicle it might need upgraded brakes/tyres and suspension).

Front n Rear will be worth doing ,but just rears useless.

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Stopping distance remains the same.Overbraked Now. Waste of Money. But the Plastic Brembo Covers look nice.thumbsup.gif

I beg to differ. I put a BJmotors/runstop kit (320mm rears, 350mm fronts) onto my old Colorado pickup, the brakes on it were terrible with the 20" wheels (put the stockers on and it was tolerable).

Fitted this package and it stopped very well with the 20" wheels, infact it stopped a lot earlier than the oem with stock wheel. and before you say Iam lying, part of my employment is testing brake, tyre and suspension upgrade packages for the vehicle's we sell (who woulda thought that by adding 1000kg of armour to a vehicle it might need upgraded brakes/tyres and suspension).

Front n Rear will be worth doing ,but just rears useless.
I know your not English but what part of two peeps post that have had the rear conversion done, telling you that the system works very well with only the back changed and not both do you not understand.

Re an earlier post of yours referring to me as Mr wonderful thanks for that, but one bit I cant grasp is I should listen to peeps with brains so I can become more knowledgeable. I'll be happy to do same if only you would point out who these so called peeps with brains are.

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Front n Rear will be worth doing ,but just rears useless.
I know your not English but what part of two peeps post that have had the rear conversion done, telling you that the system works very well with only the back changed and not both do you not understand.

Re an earlier post of yours referring to me as Mr wonderful thanks for that, but one bit I cant grasp is I should listen to peeps with brains so I can become more knowledgeable. I'll be happy to do same if only you would point out who these so called peeps with brains are.

You cannot improve braking by just changing the rear without improving the front unless you fit an adjustable bias valve. With modern abs and vsc l cannot see how it can be done. I have done it on non abs etc stuff. The telling point is when you slam the anchors on in the wet and find your backend is trying to overtake you if homework has not been done.

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While all the old thoughts on the matter are true, this is a 2 tonne barge with rear drum brakes. The newer versions have disks (large ones from memory ) as standard.

Rear drum brakes aren't really upto a 2 tonne lump that's meant to be driven like a car.

Plus the fortuner has 4 rear seats and a large boot (trunk to keep WS happy), I'd like to know what the axle loads are , but it must have much more weight on the rear than a normal saloon car and keep more there than a standard saloon while braking allowing more use of the rear brakes. The original drums aren't really upto it.

The disks should improve steady braking , but as TA says the test will come in an emergency stop especially in the rain, if the balance is or isn't ok.

I can't believe I'm sticking up for a fortuner . Uggh. Many today as everyday being driven like battering rans and having to undertake the slow barges hogging the outside lane. rolleyes.gif

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Front n Rear will be worth doing ,but just rears useless.

I know your not English but what part of two peeps post that have had the rear conversion done, telling you that the system works very well with only the back changed and not both do you not understand.

Re an earlier post of yours referring to me as Mr wonderful thanks for that, but one bit I cant grasp is I should listen to peeps with brains so I can become more knowledgeable. I'll be happy to do same if only you would point out who these so called peeps with brains are.

You cannot improve braking by just changing the rear without improving the front unless you fit an adjustable bias valve. With modern abs and vsc l cannot see how it can be done. I have done it on non abs etc stuff. The telling point is when you slam the anchors on in the wet and find your backend is trying to overtake you if homework has not been done.

I only put my post in once I had tried it in all conditions, my 1,000+km fully laden return run was in dry and also very wet, temp in the tyres between 30c and 44c and I can assure you I did at times give it a very large right brake foot if only to see how it would react. And every time it seem to good to be true.

Regards your earlier post about shoe wear only once have I ever had to change the shoes that was on a Ford Anglia and that had drums all round well before your time no doubt when they used to use copper rivets to secure them.

The ones on my Tuna were buggered the leading edge on all the shoes were no more than a 1/16" thick a couple of months and it would have been metal on metal.

What Toyota line them with I don't know but it must be very soft maybe they do it for better grip/ only a guess on that.

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Most of em sept You. Spoonman fitted bigger Rotors or Disks.That would certainly reduce stopping distance,especialy fully laded from higher speeds.If your pleased,thats all that matters.

Bail Ace you'll never convince someone whose spent 30,000 on brakes that they are not better.laugh.png

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Most of em sept You. Spoonman fitted bigger Rotors or Disks.That would certainly reduce stopping distance,especialy fully laded from higher speeds.If your pleased,thats all that matters.

Bail Ace you'll never convince someone whose spent 30,000 on brakes that they are not better.laugh.png

I'm sure brake feel is improved and much less effort to pull the car up would be noticed. However I would doubt braking distance would be shortened - abs is activated on stock brakes under hard braking as it would with larger brakes. Better, wider and stickier tyres would need to be added to complement the brakes. The big brakes would let the abs activate more easily under hard braking with oem tyres. Even with stock brakes, the stopping distance can be reduced if better tyres are used. I noticed that when I changed my tyres from 195 to 215. Abs was less likely to engage with the wider tires, especially when new.

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Most of em sept You. Spoonman fitted bigger Rotors or Disks.That would certainly reduce stopping distance,especialy fully laded from higher speeds.If your pleased,thats all that matters.

Bail Ace you'll never convince someone whose spent 30,000 on brakes that they are not better.laugh.png

I'm sure brake feel is improved and much less effort to pull the car up would be noticed. However I would doubt braking distance would be shortened - abs is activated on stock brakes under hard braking as it would with larger brakes. Better, wider and stickier tyres would need to be added to complement the brakes. The big brakes would let the abs activate more easily under hard braking with oem tyres. Even with stock brakes, the stopping distance can be reduced if better tyres are used. I noticed that when I changed my tyres from 195 to 215. Abs was less likely to engage with the wider tires, especially when new.

Somethings are priceless ......

I have been posting the results of my upgrades for the 2 years I have had them. My upgrades have all come from suggestions and recommendations of TV members, many from the period in time when posters took it upon themselves to share ideas and help one another.

Fredob43's experience and reaction to our rear disc brake conversion upgrade was exactly as mine was. This upgrade looks soon to be moot on SUVs because all the mfg are making 4 wheel disc brakes O.E. now.

Converting my O.E. drum brakes to disc brakes is an improvement in my vehicle's braking. Disc brakes trump drum brakes. The increase quality of the braking power with 4 wheel disc brakes should be undeniable to all except the most mechanically challenged. It was immediately obvious to me. If those who are interested bother to browse back to some of my previous posts, I believe I mentioned in some detail how much I credited this disc brake upgrade as well as the tyre choice for my new wider 20" wheels for help in possibly saving a little 5 year old girl's life or preventing seriously injury at the very least when she ran from behind a stopped song taew that had been coming from the opposite direction, and directly into the path of my MU-7! It had been raining but was only drizzling at the time and the roads were wet and it was a narrow country road. The instant I saw the top of her head as she ran into my vehicle's path, I hit the brakes ....... my big 1800kg MU-7 stopped on a dime! No skidding!! My vehicle hit the girl and she flew about 3 meters into the air but luckily was bounced to and landed on the grass and dirt to the passenger side of my vehicle. Even more luckily, the x-rays showed no broken bones or concussion - just head, arm and leg bumps and bruises. The point here is that these disc brakes passed 'real life' stopping test on wet roads. My vehicle's O.E. drum brakes and tyres could never have stopped like that, and in time, and that poor little girl would have surely been dragged under my vehicle .....

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Most of em sept You. Spoonman fitted bigger Rotors or Disks.That would certainly reduce stopping distance,especialy fully laded from higher speeds.If your pleased,thats all that matters.

Bail Ace you'll never convince someone whose spent 30,000 on brakes that they are not better.laugh.png

I'm sure brake feel is improved and much less effort to pull the car up would be noticed. However I would doubt braking distance would be shortened - abs is activated on stock brakes under hard braking as it would with larger brakes. Better, wider and stickier tyres would need to be added to complement the brakes. The big brakes would let the abs activate more easily under hard braking with oem tyres. Even with stock brakes, the stopping distance can be reduced if better tyres are used. I noticed that when I changed my tyres from 195 to 215. Abs was less likely to engage with the wider tires, especially when new.

Somethings are priceless ......

I have been posting the results of my upgrades for the 2 years I have had them. My upgrades have all come from suggestions and recommendations of TV members, many from the period in time when posters took it upon themselves to share ideas and help one another.

Fredob43's experience and reaction to our rear disc brake conversion upgrade was exactly as mine was. This upgrade looks soon to be moot on SUVs because all the mfg are making 4 wheel disc brakes O.E. now.

Converting my O.E. drum brakes to disc brakes is an improvement in my vehicle's braking. Disc brakes trump drum brakes. The increase quality of the braking power with 4 wheel disc brakes should be undeniable to all except the most mechanically challenged. It was immediately obvious to me. If those who are interested bother to browse back to some of my previous posts, I believe I mentioned in some detail how much I credited this disc brake upgrade as well as the tyre choice for my new wider 20" wheels for help in possibly saving a little 5 year old girl's life or preventing seriously injury at the very least when she ran from behind a stopped song taew that had been coming from the opposite direction, and directly into the path of my MU-7! It had been raining but was only drizzling at the time and the roads were wet and it was a narrow country road. The instant I saw the top of her head as she ran into my vehicle's path, I hit the brakes ....... my big 1800kg MU-7 stopped on a dime! No skidding!! My vehicle hit the girl and she flew about 3 meters into the air but luckily was bounced to and landed on the grass and dirt to the passenger side of my vehicle. Even more luckily, the x-rays showed no broken bones or concussion - just head, arm and leg bumps and bruises. The point here is that these disc brakes passed 'real life' stopping test on wet roads. My vehicle's O.E. drum brakes and tyres could never have stopped like that, and in time, and that poor little girl would have surely been dragged under my vehicle .....

I was referring to a disc to disc change, not referring to changing out drums for discs. Drums are rather hopeless, especially on a heavy suv....and you also changed to wider tyres that contributes to better braking. Not just the brakes alone!

edit: the larger rotors will help braking distance by reducing fade as they dissipate heat better under repeated hard braking. Drums are even worse for fade as they have hardly any surface area exposed directly to the air.

Edited by culicine
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Most of em sept You. Spoonman fitted bigger Rotors or Disks.That would certainly reduce stopping distance,especialy fully laded from higher speeds.If your pleased,thats all that matters.

Bail Ace you'll never convince someone whose spent 30,000 on brakes that they are not better.laugh.png

I'm sure brake feel is improved and much less effort to pull the car up would be noticed. However I would doubt braking distance would be shortened - abs is activated on stock brakes under hard braking as it would with larger brakes. Better, wider and stickier tyres would need to be added to complement the brakes. The big brakes would let the abs activate more easily under hard braking with oem tyres. Even with stock brakes, the stopping distance can be reduced if better tyres are used. I noticed that when I changed my tyres from 195 to 215. Abs was less likely to engage with the wider tires, especially when new.

Somethings are priceless ......

I have been posting the results of my upgrades for the 2 years I have had them. My upgrades have all come from suggestions and recommendations of TV members, many from the period in time when posters took it upon themselves to share ideas and help one another.

Fredob43's experience and reaction to our rear disc brake conversion upgrade was exactly as mine was. This upgrade looks soon to be moot on SUVs because all the mfg are making 4 wheel disc brakes O.E. now.

Converting my O.E. drum brakes to disc brakes is an improvement in my vehicle's braking. Disc brakes trump drum brakes. The increase quality of the braking power with 4 wheel disc brakes should be undeniable to all except the most mechanically challenged. It was immediately obvious to me. If those who are interested bother to browse back to some of my previous posts, I believe I mentioned in some detail how much I credited this disc brake upgrade as well as the tyre choice for my new wider 20" wheels for help in possibly saving a little 5 year old girl's life or preventing seriously injury at the very least when she ran from behind a stopped song taew that had been coming from the opposite direction, and directly into the path of my MU-7! It had been raining but was only drizzling at the time and the roads were wet and it was a narrow country road. The instant I saw the top of her head as she ran into my vehicle's path, I hit the brakes ....... my big 1800kg MU-7 stopped on a dime! No skidding!! My vehicle hit the girl and she flew about 3 meters into the air but luckily was bounced to and landed on the grass and dirt to the passenger side of my vehicle. Even more luckily, the x-rays showed no broken bones or concussion - just head, arm and leg bumps and bruises. The point here is that these disc brakes passed 'real life' stopping test on wet roads. My vehicle's O.E. drum brakes and tyres could never have stopped like that, and in time, and that poor little girl would have surely been dragged under my vehicle .....

I think you/we are wasting our time by putting in our findings as according to the Click we are both utterly wrong and talking out of our Butts it cant work they the Brains trust have said it cant. So that's that consider ourselves told.

Yes have read some of your posts before and they have been very informative stating facts.

Thank Buddha you had the conversion as there could be now one less child walking in this world.

Must agree with you about time gone by when TV members used to post good suggestions, now alas all gone and we have been left with peep's that couldn't care less they just seem to put in anything mostly off topic to up their posts numbers sad really.

You and I know it works that's the main thing at least we can go about our travels in a more safe fashion.

Enjoy your motoring I know I will.

Edited by fredob43
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Must tell the Toyota Mini Bus Drivers about this upgrade.

I think...don't forget the Baht buses too.

Don't tell 'em Ace, if one does it the rest will plough into the back of it...........cheesy.gif

Yes, you can see the scenario in Thailand at rear end collision accident, the one who hit the car in front, says " It's your fault you stopped too quickly ".

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Must tell the Toyota Mini Bus Drivers about this upgrade.

No need to the Sportivo already has it. As you should have known if you had opened your eyes learnt and educated yourself before you post.

Your all be glad to hear I've no doubt that I'm thinking of getting a new 7 seat MPV going down the AOP 'ACE to his muckers' suggested route of changing my mini Bus/tank Fortuner for a 4 door VIGO only got to sort out where the missing two seats are. They have to be there one of the Click have said so and none of them can ever be wrong as we all know.

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No need to the Sportivo already has it. As you should have known if you had opened your eyes learnt and educated yourself before you post.

Your all be glad to hear I've no doubt that I'm thinking of getting a new 7 seat MPV going down the AOP 'ACE to his muckers' suggested route of changing my mini Bus/tank Fortuner for a 4 door VIGO only got to sort out where the missing two seats are. They have to be there one of the Click have said so and none of them can ever be wrong as we all know.

My Vigo has more seating capacity than an SUV, I admit passengers have to bring their own chairs though..............laugh.png

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Posted 2014-08-13 16:50:21

I have had my Fortuner Sportivo for about 5 years now, having had the engine tweaked I thought it was about time for a brake upgrade.

Having made several inquiries I settled for a Runstop replacement kit for the rear drums.

Contacted BJ motors BKK [email protected] 022246580-2 very helpful. They wanted an email stating car model year engine wheel size etc I also asked about fitting of same.

Within an hour I had received a reply recommending their 320dics with twin callipers 27,500bt for the kit they also included a photo break down of how it's done looks easy and it is but unless you have all the right pulley's and presses your buggered.

They also recommended a fitting company not 10 minutes from where I live very handy.

After a trip to the fitter to discus the set up I was given a price of 4,000bt for fitting including a rear axle oil change recommended.

Paid a deposit and they ordered the parts this was a Monday afternoon by midday the next day they had receive the kit and Wednesday in I go at just after 8am. All sorted I was home at about 12.30pm after a little run round.

Right was the 31,500bt well spent.

Dose it stop better yes not to easy at first to give an accurate % wise answer just running about town but after just completing a return journey of some 1,000km fully loaded in high temperatures + the usual heavy rain, I can tell you it's fantastic I guesstimate at least 40/50% better.

It does take a bit of getting used to pressure peddle wise at first but after that it's all plain sailing.

Down side.

The hand brake isn't as effective as before on steep hills but an extra click on the handle sorts that out, other than that nothing.

N/B my Sportivo wheels have a 16" internal dimension leaving a gap of some 1.1/4 " between rim and the outside edge of the callipers so whether the standard Fortuner wheels can accommodate this set up I don't know. But what I do know that I should have had it done years ago.

Forgot their wed site it's www.runstopbj.com.

Congrats on your new brakes! I know you are going to enjoy them! clap2.gif

I had the exact same rear caliper brake upgrade kit installed on my brand new MU-7. I could not get to the upgrade center fast enough after I bought it. The improvement in braking was instantaneous and 'quite' noticeable and your description is what I experienced! Now my big MU-7 stops on a dime, with barely any brake pedal effort at all, like a good 4 wheel disc brake vehicle should! It helps me do these LOS mountains like Steve McQueen in, 'Bullit', and performs superbly in rain.

I upgraded to 4 wheel disc brakes because they are better than drum brakes and the brake of choice in higher model, more expensive cars - I would think any auto enthusiast knows that.

As confirmed by the Run-Stop tech, the factory brake bias valve to control the front rear % is factory set and was not been adjusted. They said the factory front rear % for my SUV is 45% - 55%. I have been driving 2 years now (31.5 km total) and I looked at my brake pad wear: The rear disc pads are wearing down faster than the front disc pads in my RWD (4x4 on-the-fly) vehicle.

Surprisingly, the techs also said that their caliper piston rubber dust boots only lasts 1 - 2 years! 2 of the 4 of my rear rubber dust boots are torn!

Thank you for backing up my findings, I did try and put in an informative post but as usual with the motoring section on TV everyone knows better than you do, then without any first hand experience of what's been done or how/if it works just poo poo it out of hand.

I can concur with your statement on pedal pressure you only have to breath on the pedal now and it stops as you say on a dime, hence I said it did take a bit of getting used to. Not to sure about Steve McQueen if I remember right he was in the air more times than he was on the road best of luck with that one.

Regarding the rear pads wearing quicker than the front it could be something quite simple like softer pads that would equate for the difference in wear and not necessarily the Bias Valve setting.

But I would have them looked at regarding as to why they are not wearing at the same pace.

N/B.

Someone stated the cost was 35,000bt it was actually 31,500bt, and it doesn't have 'bimbo' covers the callipers are silvery just like the ones on the front.

There can be a vast difference between ownership and understanding. Not too long ago the military here had some nice shiny bomb detectors bought by some-one who didn’t have a clue about detecting bombs. They they went on to decry the true experts in the field when their folly was revealed.

By changing the rear brakes in the chosen manner, braking effectivity has absolutely been compromised.

Some-one here who modifies vehicles at a professional level changes front and rear brakes to maintain the biasing between them. Its common knowledge that the front brakes on; cars, bikes and other vehicles have most of the stopping power.

Uprating the rear brakes only has changed the braking dynamic of the vehicle by transferring some of the braking force from the front to the rear. The bias set by the prime design team (Toyota) has been altered. The full ramifications of this can only be determined by Toyota. No-one else has the design logs for your vehicle.

Certainly the rear wheels will now lock up more frequently

.

The change in the braking dynamic will change the vehicle response times to microprocessor controlled systems such as; ABS, EBD, Traction Control and VSC. In extreme cases, they could be rendered totally useless in certain scenarios. Again, the full effect can only be determined by Toyota.

Not too long ago Lexus had an issue with VSC which went completely undetected throughout their proving test regime and caused some accidents. It was fixed very simply by changing a timing in the microprocessor firmware.

Hopefully, firmware and hardware tolerance factors will limit any detrimental effects of the change. Again, only Toyota can determine this.

A less dramatic and cheaper way to slightly improve braking would have been to upgrade brake pad and shoe materials.

Jerry

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Posted 2014-08-13 16:50:21

I have had my Fortuner Sportivo for about 5 years now, having had the engine tweaked I thought it was about time for a brake upgrade.

Having made several inquiries I settled for a Runstop replacement kit for the rear drums.

Contacted BJ motors BKK [email protected] 022246580-2 very helpful. They wanted an email stating car model year engine wheel size etc I also asked about fitting of same.

Within an hour I had received a reply recommending their 320dics with twin callipers 27,500bt for the kit they also included a photo break down of how it's done looks easy and it is but unless you have all the right pulley's and presses your buggered.

They also recommended a fitting company not 10 minutes from where I live very handy.

After a trip to the fitter to discus the set up I was given a price of 4,000bt for fitting including a rear axle oil change recommended.

Paid a deposit and they ordered the parts this was a Monday afternoon by midday the next day they had receive the kit and Wednesday in I go at just after 8am. All sorted I was home at about 12.30pm after a little run round.

Right was the 31,500bt well spent.

Dose it stop better yes not to easy at first to give an accurate % wise answer just running about town but after just completing a return journey of some 1,000km fully loaded in high temperatures + the usual heavy rain, I can tell you it's fantastic I guesstimate at least 40/50% better.

It does take a bit of getting used to pressure peddle wise at first but after that it's all plain sailing.

Down side.

The hand brake isn't as effective as before on steep hills but an extra click on the handle sorts that out, other than that nothing.

N/B my Sportivo wheels have a 16" internal dimension leaving a gap of some 1.1/4 " between rim and the outside edge of the callipers so whether the standard Fortuner wheels can accommodate this set up I don't know. But what I do know that I should have had it done years ago.

Forgot their wed site it's www.runstopbj.com.

Congrats on your new brakes! I know you are going to enjoy them! clap2.gif

I had the exact same rear caliper brake upgrade kit installed on my brand new MU-7. I could not get to the upgrade center fast enough after I bought it. The improvement in braking was instantaneous and 'quite' noticeable and your description is what I experienced! Now my big MU-7 stops on a dime, with barely any brake pedal effort at all, like a good 4 wheel disc brake vehicle should! It helps me do these LOS mountains like Steve McQueen in, 'Bullit', and performs superbly in rain.

I upgraded to 4 wheel disc brakes because they are better than drum brakes and the brake of choice in higher model, more expensive cars - I would think any auto enthusiast knows that.

As confirmed by the Run-Stop tech, the factory brake bias valve to control the front rear % is factory set and was not been adjusted. They said the factory front rear % for my SUV is 45% - 55%. I have been driving 2 years now (31.5 km total) and I looked at my brake pad wear: The rear disc pads are wearing down faster than the front disc pads in my RWD (4x4 on-the-fly) vehicle.

Surprisingly, the techs also said that their caliper piston rubber dust boots only lasts 1 - 2 years! 2 of the 4 of my rear rubber dust boots are torn!

Thank you for backing up my findings, I did try and put in an informative post but as usual with the motoring section on TV everyone knows better than you do, then without any first hand experience of what's been done or how/if it works just poo poo it out of hand.

I can concur with your statement on pedal pressure you only have to breath on the pedal now and it stops as you say on a dime, hence I said it did take a bit of getting used to. Not to sure about Steve McQueen if I remember right he was in the air more times than he was on the road best of luck with that one.

Regarding the rear pads wearing quicker than the front it could be something quite simple like softer pads that would equate for the difference in wear and not necessarily the Bias Valve setting.

But I would have them looked at regarding as to why they are not wearing at the same pace.

N/B.

Someone stated the cost was 35,000bt it was actually 31,500bt, and it doesn't have 'bimbo' covers the callipers are silvery just like the ones on the front.

There can be a vast difference between ownership and understanding. Not too long ago the military here had some nice shiny bomb detectors bought by some-one who didn’t have a clue about detecting bombs. They they went on to decry the true experts in the field when their folly was revealed.

By changing the rear brakes in the chosen manner, braking effectivity has absolutely been compromised.

Some-one here who modifies vehicles at a professional level changes front and rear brakes to maintain the biasing between them. Its common knowledge that the front brakes on; cars, bikes and other vehicles have most of the stopping power.

Uprating the rear brakes only has changed the braking dynamic of the vehicle by transferring some of the braking force from the front to the rear. The bias set by the prime design team (Toyota) has been altered. The full ramifications of this can only be determined by Toyota. No-one else has the design logs for your vehicle.

Certainly the rear wheels will now lock up more frequently

.

The change in the braking dynamic will change the vehicle response times to microprocessor controlled systems such as; ABS, EBD, Traction Control and VSC. In extreme cases, they could be rendered totally useless in certain scenarios. Again, the full effect can only be determined by Toyota.

Not too long ago Lexus had an issue with VSC which went completely undetected throughout their proving test regime and caused some accidents. It was fixed very simply by changing a timing in the microprocessor firmware.

Hopefully, firmware and hardware tolerance factors will limit any detrimental effects of the change. Again, only Toyota can determine this.

A less dramatic and cheaper way to slightly improve braking would have been to upgrade brake pad and shoe materials.

Jerry

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