First free solo Rock Climb ascent in Phuket -- watch it POV!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

uploadfromtaptalk1412928274189.jpg

The satellite image is better. Can See the stone.

Thanks for sharing @hansgruber! Actually I know that formation and was going to mention about it but you beat me to it Like Chalong Bay Cliffs it's an abandoned development site that looks like someone was wanting to develop but gave up -- and that was many years ago! It's down Rassada Rd. not super far from Rajahabat University (but on the other side of Thepkassatri Rd.) About 13 years or so ago I lived down that road for about 6 months and could see the area, which one day I hiked back into (it's not super far). If memory serves me correctly I think yes, it is at least as high if not higher than the center section of Chalong Bay Cliffs; I also have the impression it was wider in scope as well but can't remember for sure.

However, I do also distinctly remember walking up to one of the walls and testing some rock, which broke away pretty easily, instant turn off to a mostly solo climber, and never went back. Part of the problem is that wall largely faces west, so gets more sun, wind and rain (and which is why the CBC site is largely good rock, because it faces south and receives less of these).

All of that said, it's quite possible that with the help of another person or two and some top ropes, that some of the better routes could be cleaned of weathered rock and made into good climbs -- certainly worth another look!

And also glad to hear that you like hiking and exploring -- as I'd bet you know there are actually a lot of "unvisited/unseen" (except maybe by rubber tree planters/harvesters perhaps) places in the hills and jungles of Phuket! So would be great to have an "on the ground" adventurer like yourself (or any others' contributions welcome too), keeping an eye open for interesting rock formations (even shorter boulders, esp. if they're good rock). And if you find a cool place that we are able to climb at, we'll be happy to name the site after you, maybe "Hans Gruber Heights" (or whatever takes your fancy).

Esp. if people are interested to contribute or even just check out the adventures of others, as mused above in a previous post, maybe we can start a new sub-forum, something like Phuket Adventures & Explorations (only outdoor stuff of course, no bars, shopping or restaurants), though not being very long here on TV I wouldn't know at this point how to do that or if even possible. Sorry for the long post!

How about Hans Gruber Fell?

hans fall.jpg

A fell (from Old Norse fell, fjall, "mountain"[1]) is a high and barren landscape feature, such as a mountain range or moor-covered hills - Wiki

Ha that'd work. And maybe if I climb a route without a rope I can call it "Hans Solo"

[KarenBravo]

How about Hans Gruber Fell?

hans fall.jpg

A fell (from Old Norse fell, fjall, "mountain"[1]) is a high and barren landscape feature, such as a mountain range or moor-covered hills - Wiki

Ha that'd work. And maybe if I climb a route without a rope I can call it "Hans Solo"

You would have to do it with only one hand. The character's name is Han Solo.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

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How about Hans Gruber Fell?

hans fall.jpg

A fell (from Old Norse fell, fjall, "mountain"[1]) is a high and barren landscape feature, such as a mountain range or moor-covered hills - Wiki

Ha that'd work. And maybe if I climb a route without a rope I can call it "Hans Solo" alt=laugh.png>

You would have to do it with only one hand. The character's name is Han Solo.

Ok, got me on that one but I'd bet he has the most misspelled name of all the Star Wars characters....for about 40 years I've always thought it had an 's'

Edited October 11, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[stevehaigh]

its great this thread is getting alot of interest. i started a climbing thread years ago looking for phuketian looking to team up amd climb in krabi and seach local spot but got nointerest at all

nice to see ir happening now

[Tapster]

@Gforcejunkypkt

That main wall you mention is plenty high enough to bolt, especially as it looks somewhat steep and quite smooth in places, therefore lots of potential for falling off!!

Most ropes these days are 60m, with some being 70m but that's not very common.

If your rope's 60m, obviously that means you can climb up to a max of 30m with your man on the ground still holding the end of the rope when he lowers you off from the anchors at the top! Any higher and the rope would slip through the belay device towards the end of lowering-off, with hilarious results (not)!

In practice you'd want a greater margin of safety than that so a 20m wall is a decent pitch. On the higher parts of the wall and by the sound of it, at this other place in Phuket Town, we'd do a single-pitch climb to an obvious stopping point and maybe a second pitch from that, if the climbing was good, for those climbers with the skills to do a multi-pitch climb with abseil/rappel descent.

Sounds like lots of potential. Can't wait!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

its great this thread is getting alot of interest. i started a climbing thread years ago looking for phuketian looking to team up amd climb in krabi and seach local spot but got nointerest at all

nice to see ir happening now

I've only become active on TV recently or otherwise I would have joined you Steve!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

@Gforcejunkypkt

That main wall you mention is plenty high enough to bolt, especially as it looks somewhat steep and quite smooth in places, therefore lots of potential for falling off!!

Most ropes these days are 60m, with some being 70m but that's not very common.

If your rope's 60m, obviously that means you can climb up to a max of 30m with your man on the ground still holding the end of the rope when he lowers you off from the anchors at the top! Any higher and the rope would slip through the belay device towards the end of lowering-off, with hilarious results (not)!

In practice you'd want a greater margin of safety than that so a 20m wall is a decent pitch. On the higher parts of the wall and by the sound of it, at this other place in Phuket Town, we'd do a single-pitch climb to an obvious stopping point and maybe a second pitch from that, if the climbing was good, for those climbers with the skills to do a multi-pitch climb with abseil/rappel descent.

Sounds like lots of potential. Can't wait!

Good stuff @ Tapster -- I re-visited Chalong Bay Cliffs yesterday for more exploration, pics and a bit of shorter climbing/bouldering (and kinda got my @ss kicked on a couple of routes, will make a new video soon as I can and post some more pix).

On the left side of the cliff area and behind is a massive amount of good rock covering most of the hillside -- that whole hillside is part of a massive rock formation there. However, most of it's sloped and not really challenging from a climbing perspective (but kinda tough from a hiking perspective -- I was exhausted after a couple of hours of hiking/scrambling/climbing/fighting the jungle, then darkness on the way out -- but there are at least a few good bouldering problems, more info to follow, stay tuned.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hey guys, been busy with work so haven't quite finished a video about my 2nd visit to CBC, but for now here are a few pix of the main wall up close:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/97518208@N05/15370898735/in/photostream/lightbox/

[Tapster]

mmmm............interesting!

It looks quite featureless and there's quite a lot of water seepage with moss and organic growth.

I guess we're just going to have to see what's climbable.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to it.

[stevehaigh]

i just had a look at some nice sea cliffs directly below the big wind turbine between Nai Harn and Ya Nui 7°46'12.80"N 98°18'19.30"E

its about 20m high and looks like it has some pretty challenging routes including an overhang, the rock quality looks ok. some places to set up anchors on top and very easy to get to from the parking lot at the view point. would be nice early morning before the sun kicks in.

[hansgruber]

i just had a look at some nice sea cliffs directly below the big wind turbine between Nai Harn and Ya Nui 7°46'12.80"N 98°18'19.30"E

its about 20m high and looks like it has some pretty challenging routes including an overhang, the rock quality looks ok. some places to set up anchors on top and very easy to get to from the parking lot at the view point. would be nice early morning before the sun kicks in.

You mean above Ao sane and Baan Krating?

It's possible to get those the clifftops from the back road to Kata. A few guys jump and glide down on parachutes to nai harn from up top. It's the most amazing view from up there. Especially at sunset with the distant islands in view.

There are some rock faces below but would need to repel down on a rope or climb from Ao sane beach.

Sent from my LG-D858

[Tapster]

@Stevehaigh

Oooo..........it just gets better and better!!

Roll on 2015!

[stevehaigh]

i just had a look at some nice sea cliffs directly below the big wind turbine between Nai Harn and Ya Nui 7°46'12.80"N 98°18'19.30"E

its about 20m high and looks like it has some pretty challenging routes including an overhang, the rock quality looks ok. some places to set up anchors on top and very easy to get to from the parking lot at the view point. would be nice early morning before the sun kicks in.

You mean above Ao sane and Baan Krating?

It's possible to get those the clifftops from the back road to Kata. A few guys jump and glide down on parachutes to nai harn from up top. It's the most amazing view from up there. Especially at sunset with the distant islands in view.

There are some rock faces below but would need to repel down on a rope or climb from Ao sane beach.

Sent from my LG-D858

isn't Ao Sane north of Nai Harn? i'm talking about an area south of Nai Harn just below the wind turbines. i doubt they are great routes but they may have some good moves on, and can't beat the view and best all all, super easy to get to.

but also very interested to find the area you are talking about Hans. i'll take a drive over there this a.m.

Edited October 19, 2014 by stevehaigh

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Good to see you guys thinking sharing about and exploring possible climbing sites.

Never been to the place above Ao Sane and just did a little checking at a big outcrop near water at Nui beach near Nai Harn but found it quite weathered and brittle so haven't checked any further in the area.

But maybe with some proper cleaning there could be some decent climbs opened in both the places you are referring to -- can't wait to get back from the States! In the meantime if any of you check out the places would be happy to see your recce reports.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi there, still overseas but finally was able to finish a video of my 2nd visit to Chalong Bay Cliffs area -- actually one part of the backside. This video is called 'Biking, Hiking, Climbing & Thorn Tree Fighting' and includes some of each, while trying to keep the video length not too crazy.

While not as 'epic' or dangerous as my solo ascent of 'What Mid-life Crisis', I hope it will give you a further glimpse of what that area has to offer -- though there's more still to be explored (not to mention other sites mentioned by some).

I was admittedly kind of stupid and left my house too late, not arriving at the site until a bit after 4:30pm, which I knew would be cutting it close light wise but just wanted to get out for at least some adventure before a busy couple of weeks. And of course I didn't count on a (rather time consuming) battle with a quite nasty thorn tree just to get on a climb, as the video shows. I actually had to hike down the hill and through the jungle in total darkness (except my Note 3 light app), next time I will surely pack a head lamp.

And can't tell you how scratched up I was after that encounter with the thorn tree -- and by the time I got home I felt like a truck had run over me (3 times more tired than after the solo ascent!) I'm not sure but I think the little thorns (many of which the tips break off and become embedded in your skin) must have some little poison or something. If you just get a couple no big deal but I had at least 25-30 on my legs & arms, so I think the cumulative effect was pretty strong -- instead of going to bed very late about 3-4am as I usually do, I passed out at my desk about 10:30pm. Next day too my entire body was sore and super tired. Suffice it say, as much as I love nature and wish to preserve it, next visit back I'm bringing some cutters and giving that bush a nice trim so we can more easily get to that lovely crack!

Edited October 23, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

BTW, would love to see videos n pix by others if you go exploring in the wild anywhere on Phuket! And of course they don't have to be all fancy, with music etc (takes a long time to do all that!), we're here for fun and info not video academy awards:)

[stevehaigh]

that looks like a nice crack climb with a bit of cleaning. maybe rappel down from the top first with some tree trimming tools next time.

where exactly is this Barret? can you post GPS co-ords?

thx

[Gforcejunkypkt]

that looks like a nice crack climb with a bit of cleaning. maybe rappel down from the top first with some tree trimming tools next time.

where exactly is this Barret? can you post GPS co-ords?

thx

It's right around the left side of the main cliff (if facing to the cliffs), just takes a hike through the jungle below or a scramble higher along the ridge to get to (which is easier, otherwise you'll have to climb/scramble up the reasonably steep hillside like I did).

Latitude: 7°49'27.84"N

Longitude: 98°19'25.78"E

That thorn bush will best be attacked from the base of the climb, I'm going to bring a flamethrower....

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Here's a boulder/outcrop I noticed recently near Big Buddha. Doesn't look huge in scope but depending on how much rock is below the tree line and whether it's steep enough, there might be a decent route there or two. Easiest access looks to be from Big Buddha itself, so will take a look see over there in the near future.

[Tapster]

That's great. There seems to be more and more possibilities opening up.

Good work. I liked your recent video as well. Was that a wheelie I saw as you left your house?

Looking forward to seeing all this rock!!!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Got a little gear while @ REI in Seattle, WA.....New rope is 10mm, 60m Flashlight II from Edelweiss, it was pretty much the most affordable dry rope they had but ought to do us ok for a year or two (I also got Spiroll rope protector which will help with keeping it good while top roping). Shoes are also more affordable Tarantula models from La Sportiva; harness is Black Diamond Momentum Speed Adjust. I also brought back 16 block of climbing chalk, so that ought to last a while.

Edited October 29, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Good work. I liked your recent video as well. Was that a wheelie I saw as you left your house?

Yeah, just a little one

[Tapster]

mmmsweet, sweet GEAR!

There's nothing like the feeling of walking into the outdoor shop, totally justified in the buying of shiny new stuff!!

Congratulationsit all looks lovely!!!

??

[Gforcejunkypkt]

mmmsweet, sweet GEAR!

There's nothing like the feeling of walking into the outdoor shop, totally justified in the buying of shiny new stuff!!

Congratulationsit all looks lovely!!!

??

Thanks Tapster -- talk about temptation, got all this from REI's (pretty much the biggest and best outdoor gear supply shop in US) flagship store in Seattle, amazing place where a guy could spend a lot of money very easily if not careful. They have an impressive indoor climbing tower, trails around the store to test MTB's (despite being in the middle of the downtown area) and just about anything you could ever think of in any kind of outdoor gear.

But Steve and I are going to meet up soon and see what we have for gear then maybe go do a recce over at Chalong Bay Cliff to see how best to set up some top rope anchors, will let you know how it goes.

Btw, when you have time maybe you can lay out your gear and take a photo or two, which will give us a further idea of what you have, which might help in planning future gear purchases over the months ahead.

[Tapster]

Hi GFJ,

As I'm pretty snowed under with a massive to-do list leading up to our packing and leaving our house here, so I can't get everything out and photograph it, sorry.

However, I have everything one could possibly need for trad and sport climbing and for route setting.

Just to give you an idea:

• Two 50m static ropes, five or six dynamic climbing ropes.
  
• Two full racks of trad gear with many carabiners, quickdraws, slings, belay devices, etc.
  
• Three or four harnesses, three helmets, many pairs of rock shoes.
  
• Everything for cleaning and setting routes: ascenders, descenders, crowbars, brushes, Bosch 36v cordless drill, bolts, hangers, etc., etc.
  
• I have been collecting all this stuff for years. I haven't needed to buy any new gear in ages.....sadly, because I love new gear as much as the next guy!

What would be very useful for you to have is a Gri-Gri or other so-called "assisted belay device". You may already have one but if you don't, it's a great investment. When sport climbing you don't have to wear yourself out holding the rope tight while someone repeatedly falls off or rests for a long time. Also, if assisting with route setting, you don't have to hold the rope taut for hours as the guy cleans the route, or places bolts. You still have to hold the rope for safety but only loosely in your hand. The Gri-Gri pinches the rope and holds it tightly.

You'll be pleased to know that I normally clean and bolt without assistance. It takes a long time to prepare some routes and I don't like to think of someone having to hold on as I go up and down repeatedly, trying moves or finding the best bolt placements. Anyway, if I'm busy doing that, a willing volunteer could be cleaning another line and top-roping it with someone else.

A few other things you might find useful:

• Some slings, short and long, and a few screwgate carabiners, all for setting up top ropes and very useful for safety. If you can afford it, maybe 4 short slings and 4 long and four to six screwgates. The standard slings these days are 22kN, sewn slings, usually 1m or 2m circumference, and approx 1cm wide, made of Spectra or Dyneema. You can also get one very long sling. I have one of about 6m circumference, again useful for anchors that are a long way from the edge of the crag.
  
• A few ordinary carabiners, snap-gate or wire-gate, for backing up the screwgates for maximum redundancy and safety. Your rope protector will be very handy as well.
  
• Again, if you can afford it, and want to get into inspecting and cleaning routes, a 50 or 60m static rope, 10 or 11mm, and a Petzl ascender:
  
  http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Ascender-Reviews/Petzl-Ascension-Ascender
  
  The ascender will go with the Gri-Gri to allow you to go up and down the rope safely, and using a static rope will mean that you won't be bouncing up and down every time you move (approx 7% stretch in dynamic rope). Also you won't knacker your nice climbing rope with the teeth of the ascender. If you get an ascender you'll need even more gear.......two circular-cross-section screwgates for keeping the rope safely in the device. If you get one, you'll see what I mean.

There.......lots of lovely gear to be thinking about!!!

Cool, man!

I'm off back to my to-do list.

I'll hear from you soon. Good luck with the top-roping

[stevehaigh]

wow Tapster, sounds like you could start your own climbing gym.maybe we should rent some land somewhere and build one.

[Tapster]

Hi Steve,

I think it's the same in any hobby or interest that you've done for a while: stuff just builds up, doesn't it?

A new version of something comes out, sometimes a whole new technique evolves, requiring more gear.

You know how it is.

The climbing gym idea is interesting. It's likely that a properly set up, safely-run climbing wall would do quite well in Phuket, especially on rainy days!

Open to the public? Trained instructors? Cafe/bar? ...... how big a vision do you have of this?

When my stuff arrives in Feb/March, I will have a small training wall which I'll be putting up outside the house. It is supported by large threaded bolts which go though the wall and has chains by which it can be raised or lowered to make it easier/harder. You'll be most welcome to give it a try. It's very useful for getting fitter. I'll need it!! I haven't been doing anything like as much climbing recently as I'd like and you can see from the attached photo that it's quite hard to use the wall at the moment!

May I ask your advice, please: I built the training wall from plywood with a softwood frame. It has been mounted inside a garage so far but our new house will only have space outside, where it should be quite dry under the eaves but the wood will be at the mercy of termites and other nasties.

What is the best thing to protect the wood from insects and will the same stuff make it waterproof as well??

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi GFJ,

As I'm pretty snowed under with a massive to-do list leading up to our packing and leaving our house here, so I can't get everything out and photograph it, sorry.

However, I have everything one could possibly need for trad and sport climbing and for route setting.

Just to give you an idea:

• Two 50m static ropes, five or six dynamic climbing ropes.

• Two full racks of trad gear with many carabiners, quickdraws, slings, belay devices, etc.

• Three or four harnesses, three helmets, many pairs of rock shoes.

• Everything for cleaning and setting routes: ascenders, descenders, crowbars, brushes, Bosch 36v cordless drill, bolts, hangers, etc., etc.

• I have been collecting all this stuff for years. I haven't needed to buy any new gear in ages.....sadly, because I love new gear as much as the next guy!

What would be very useful for you to have is a Gri-Gri or other so-called "assisted belay device". You may already have one but if you don't, it's a great investment. When sport climbing you don't have to wear yourself out holding the rope tight while someone repeatedly falls off or rests for a long time. Also, if assisting with route setting, you don't have to hold the rope taut for hours as the guy cleans the route, or places bolts. You still have to hold the rope for safety but only loosely in your hand. The Gri-Gri pinches the rope and holds it tightly.

You'll be pleased to know that I normally clean and bolt without assistance. It takes a long time to prepare some routes and I don't like to think of someone having to hold on as I go up and down repeatedly, trying moves or finding the best bolt placements. Anyway, if I'm busy doing that, a willing volunteer could be cleaning another line and top-roping it with someone else.

A few other things you might find useful:

• Some slings, short and long, and a few screwgate carabiners, all for setting up top ropes and very useful for safety. If you can afford it, maybe 4 short slings and 4 long and four to six screwgates. The standard slings these days are 22kN, sewn slings, usually 1m or 2m circumference, and approx 1cm wide, made of Spectra or Dyneema. You can also get one very long sling. I have one of about 6m circumference, again useful for anchors that are a long way from the edge of the crag.

• A few ordinary carabiners, snap-gate or wire-gate, for backing up the screwgates for maximum redundancy and safety. Your rope protector will be very handy as well.

• Again, if you can afford it, and want to get into inspecting and cleaning routes, a 50 or 60m static rope, 10 or 11mm, and a Petzl ascender:

  http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Ascender-Reviews/Petzl-Ascension-Ascender

  The ascender will go with the Gri-Gri to allow you to go up and down the rope safely, and using a static rope will mean that you won't be bouncing up and down every time you move (approx 7% stretch in dynamic rope). Also you won't knacker your nice climbing rope with the teeth of the ascender. If you get an ascender you'll need even more gear.......two circular-cross-section screwgates for keeping the rope safely in the device. If you get one, you'll see what I mean.

There.......lots of lovely gear to be thinking about!!!

Cool, man!

I'm off back to my to-do list.

I'll hear from you soon. Good luck with the top-roping

Super fantastico Tapster! That's an impressive amount of gear you have, more than sufficient for developing what areas Phuket has to offer (though we're discovering more and more!) Thx too for the suggested gear list, I'll be adding some of these things over the next months -- in fact I'm kicking myself in the rear for forgetting to buy a Gri-Gri at REI, it was on my list but finances were a bit limited, my mom & sister were pressuring me to go to dinner and I just plum forgot (and bought a new pair of shoes instead -- money I should have used to buy a Gri-Gri! Week after next I'll be up in BKK for business though, I'll see if I can find one anywhere then.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi Steve,

I think it's the same in any hobby or interest that you've done for a while: stuff just builds up, doesn't it?

A new version of something comes out, sometimes a whole new technique evolves, requiring more gear.

You know how it is.

The climbing gym idea is interesting. It's likely that a properly set up, safely-run climbing wall would do quite well in Phuket, especially on rainy days!

Open to the public? Trained instructors? Cafe/bar? ...... how big a vision do you have of this?

When my stuff arrives in Feb/March, I will have a small training wall which I'll be putting up outside the house. It is supported by large threaded bolts which go though the wall and has chains by which it can be raised or lowered to make it easier/harder. You'll be most welcome to give it a try. It's very useful for getting fitter. I'll need it!! I haven't been doing anything like as much climbing recently as I'd like and you can see from the attached photo that it's quite hard to use the wall at the moment!

IMG_5391.JPG

May I ask your advice, please: I built the training wall from plywood with a softwood frame. It has been mounted inside a garage so far but our new house will only have space outside, where it should be quite dry under the eaves but the wood will be at the mercy of termites and other nasties.

What is the best thing to protect the wood from insects and will the same stuff make it waterproof as well??

Nice training wall! I've thought about getting such made for myself but just never got around to it! (and have been spending most of my money on motorcycles last 10 years or so:)

Regarding protection for your wall, I'm not really knowledgeable about such things, I'm sure others on the forum could advise better, but yes, insects and mold would be big concerns and for sure some kind of waterproofing would be best -- even though it's under the eaves of your place, strong winds can still bring in rain from the sides depending on geography of where you live (I have a huge space under my split level Thai-style house, but still have to keep my 3 big bikes covered, esp. during monsoon season), it's surprising how much rain can still come in when it's really blowing.

I had an American buddy who about 7 years ago started a small indoor rock climbing gym (but in a not so great location, not anywhere near a tourist area) -- it didn't really last long because his local partners started screwing around, so he got out and it went dead not long after. However, in a decent place with proper management & facilities, it does have some possibility and worth considering in the future (or perhaps possible to 'piggyback' onto another already existing tour operation; I might have some ideas in this regard as I know plenty of adventure tour operators on the island due to my business; something to have a beer or two over in the future for sure

[stevehaigh]

i built this fake rock at the end of my pool as a climbing wall, easy, cheap and far nicer to climb on and more natural that those holds you typically get in a climbing gym.

my ideas would be to team up with a mui thai gym that had a bit of space in the back for a climbing wall. then it could share the office area and then hire a couple of climbing guides from Krabi