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The treasures of Ayutthaya

Chusri Ngamprasert
The Sunday Nation

 

Gems and gold artefacts from the old capital’s temple crypts go on view

 

AYUTTHAYA'S CHAO Sam Phraya National Museum is a magnet for kids on school field trips. They arrive at the elegant edifice by the busload and amble about in pockets, scurrying to assemble when the teacher summons them to the main hall.

At the moment there's a special attraction at the museum - the exhibition "Ayutthaya Gold: World Heritage, National Heritage". It's a tribute to His Majesty the King, who initiated the establishment of national museums across the country, and continues through December 5, his birthday.

The show is stunning - and certainly not just for kids.

"We'll start at the special exhibition in the small room because it's the highlight for today," a teacher says before handing her young charges over to a tour guide. "Remember, you can't take photos of this exhibition!"

 

Swarming into the hall, the youngsters dash to the closest display cases, squeezing in to see the historical artefacts. The jewellery and embossed gold plaques are mesmerising.

"Look at those beautiful rings - I think they're engagement rings!" one little girl squeals. 

"That elephant is awesome - it has wings! I'm going to draw it in my notebook," a boy tells his chums.

The golden plaques are also embossed with the shapes of a horse, cow, fish, turtle and the mythological creatures of Himmaphan, the forest at the base of Mount Meru in Hindu mythology. 

These were once used to present offerings to the Buddha, who is himself depicted on plaques in various poses - pang leela (walking), pang samadhi (meditating) and pang Mara wichai (subduing Mara). The level of craftsmanship required to emboss the imagery on a thin plate of gold is astonishing.

"The golden objects were excavated from gru - the crypts found in many temples in Ayutthaya. Most came from Wat Ratchaburana," explains museum official Rangsun Thata. 

"They include gold regalia, ornaments, religious objects and religious offerings. The value of golden artefacts from the Early Ayutthaya Period is far greater than the face value of the gold, since they reflect the politics, economy and culture of the past. 

"These objects represent the wealth of Ayutthaya, which accrued from tributes paid by lesser states, from royally sponsored overseas and domestic trade, and from import and export duties on what was a monopolistic trade. 

"Western chroniclers always pointed out that Ayutthaya was prosperous because it was a trading centre, an important trading port for Southeast Asia," Rangsun says. 

"King Narai was a magnificent ruler. His extensive trade activities brought people from other parts of the world to settle in Ayutthaya. The foreigners all had their own quarters in the city - the Chinese, Lao, Vietnamese, Persians and Europeans. We've found hints of Chinese, Muslim and Persian designs in some of the golden objects from the Wat Ratchaburana crypt. Some of the regalia also shows Khmer influences."

Rangsun notes that, since ancient times, only the nobility was permitted to wear gold, in accordance with sumptuary law, which was designed to curb public extravagance. 

"Elegant gold ornaments, accessories and utensils like these reflected the power of the ruler and the strength of the state. They required a high degree of craftsmanship. And they were always related to religious offerings, royal regalia or royal ceremonies."

His explanation becomes apparent in the gleaming golden betel nuts (jan mak) and betel-leaf casket (song plu) kept in one display case. It's been assumed they were used in the coronation of kings. 

In 1956 archaeologists from the government's Fine Arts Department chose Wat Mahathat as the first site to excavate, Rangsun says. 

"Many gold objects and other valuable artefacts were found in the crypt, and once news about the treasures spread, a lot of people wanted to get a share." 

"Tomb raiders" descended on Wat Ratchaburana the following year, triggering a scandal involving the police guarding the temple. The story became public when one of the policemen involved in the theft arrived at his station drunk and in a mood to brag, saying he'd share his newfound wealth with his superintendent. 

People decided the spirit guardian of the crypt must have put a curse on him, and superstition mounted when another thief was caught at Hua Rau market wearing a gold crown and wielding a gold sword. There was a popular rumour that everyone involved in the thievery met a tragic end because of the curse.

"The archaeologists managed to retrieve some of the treasures, but likely less than 20 per cent of what was stolen. The rest has never been traced," says Rangsun.

The bulk of that 20 per cent resides on the second floor of the museum, as a permanent exhibition. My jaw drops at the first glimpse. 

"The gold objects from the Wat Ratchaburana crypt are exceptional because they all date to the Early Ayutthaya Period, around the 15th century," Bank, an officer at the permanent exhibition, points out. "No artefacts had ever been from that period until these were uncovered in the late 1950s. The craftsmanship of the day was really outstanding. The delicate patterns, the encrusted jewels and the delicate golden thread woven into a crown for a noblewoman - it's unbeatable.

"Now," he says, "let me show you the famous pieces from the 1957 scandal. This is the crown the thief was wearing and the sword he was swinging when he was nabbed in the market." 

An hour flies by in lively conversation, and when it's time to leave, Bank lowers his voice and says, "You know, I once saw the ghost of the crypt guardian.

"She was chained to the model of the golden stupa, right in this room. I think the curse is real!"

A JAW-DROPPING EXHIBITION

"Ayutthaya Gold: World Heritage, National Heritage" continues through December 5 at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum in Ayutthaya.

The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday from 9am to 4pm.

Call (035) 241 587 or visit www.FineArts.go.th/chaosampraya.

 

Source: http://www.nationmultimedia.com/sunday/The-treasures-of-Ayutthaya-30294443.html

 

 

 

-- © Copyright The Nation 2016-09-04

[canopus1969]

thief was caught at Hua Rau market wearing a gold crown and wielding a gold sword.

 

Love it  

[AGareth2]

thought they were all in Burma

must be fake

[DrTuner]

7 hours ago, rooster59 said:

The foreigners all had their own quarters in the city - the Chinese, Lao, Vietnamese, Persians and Europeans.

Good old times.

[Oxx]

5 hours ago, AGareth2 said:

thought they were all in Burma

must be fake

 

Nonsense.  Almost all the Ayutthaya gold that survives has been retrieved from within chedi and Buddha figures.  The Burmese simply didn't know it was there.  It's only been rediscovered relatively recently.

 

Unfortunately, much of the gold has been plundered from chedi and melted down over the last few decades by the unscrupulous.  Only a tiny fraction remains.