Working at Chulalongkorn. Where to live?

[chemist]

Dear members and others,

 

Here's the situation:

 

- Job offer at Chulalongkorn University (lecturer/research scientist).

 

- I have a wife and a five year old daughter. A baby on the way in October.

 

- We can live anywhere in Bangkok, as long as the place is within walking distance from a BTS and/or an MRT station.

 

- Apartment budget: Up to 15 k per month. We want to be able to cook our own food.

 

- Our daughter will be needing an anuban school, reasonably priced and not too far from where we live.

 

- We have a car and a motorcycle, and would prefer a location relatively close to a highway/tollway.

 

- A location close to some greenery/park would be a plus.

 

- Any recommendations/tips/advice will be highly appreciated.

 

Regards,

 

Chemist

[fishbrando]

If you're working at Chula, living near the MRT might be good since you can get off at Sam Yan station.

 

Rama 9 has some reasonably priced rooms and is near Sirat tollway, but I can't say there's a lot of greenery around there and I'm not sure about the availability of schools.

 

[bbi1]

The pay at Chula must be absolutely shithouse if all you can afford for a family of 3 is a rental of 15k baht per month  Is the pay really that bad?

[al007]

Your best bet maybe temp accommodation one month then talk to people at work

[luteplayer1981]

Hello Chemist

 

I would recommend you look in the area of Onnut bts station extending over to Onnut road (soi 77). There are several condo developments in the area. One low-rise complex of buildings is called The Link which often has sublet or rental signs on posts, just across the street from the Lotus parking lot on soi 50. There is also a condo building about 20 meters from the Onnut fresh market (go in to the market parking area) which has tons of food options, food courts in the morning and day and is opposite a Big C mall with other shopping options. I have seen a couple of anubans (kindergartens) up on Onnut road away from Sukhumvit, but there are plenty of schools in the area. There are many developments in the area as you will see if you take stroll around.

Travelling from Onnut station on the skytrain (bts) to Siam (chula) takes 15-20 minutes depending on time of day and volume of passengers. From there you are within walking distance to most faculties.

As for green space, this is Bangkok so you must lower expectations. However, probably the best kept secret in the green space department is the Chula campus itself which is an oasis of peace in the center of the city with cheap food cantines for students and staff, cafes galore, free bus shuttle (4 routes) to and from the Siam bts station, several exercise facilities including a virtually new sports complex with 50 meter pool and programs for kids as well as others. This is in addition to libraries, bookstores, parks, etc. all within walking distance of the National Stadium bts stop (or Sam Yan underground) from which you can get to Onnut station in 20 minutes.

Living on campus is not such a good idea due to limited options in markets and cost of living in addition to the problem of living where you work (running into students/colleagues when not working,etc.).

 

Keep in mind, rental prices go up the closer they are located to the bts. You pay for convenience, however there are plenty of places in the vicinity within your budget.

 

Good luck!

[Acharn]

There are lots of apartment buildings on Soi Sala Daeng. Back when I was seventy years old they would have been easy walking distance to Chula. I don't know what rental they're looking for, but many of the buildings weren't new the last time I looked around there (eight or nine years ago).  There's an entrance to the expressway on Sukhumvit next to Soi Nana. There's a BTS station on Sukhumvit in between Witthayu Road and Soi Ruamrudee. Lumphini Park is also very nearby, on Rama IV Road. Granted, it's your jammed together old style urban hellhole, but it's really quite nice. I  would recommend you take some time, maybe on a week-end to  explore the area, especially since you have a motorcycle. I enjoyed walking around there, but I'm weird. Also, it depends what you consider walking distance. To me, back then, half a mile or so was no big deal, a mile was not unthinkable.

[DogNo1]

Yeah, national university pay is notoriously poor.

[chemist]

The pay ain't that bad, actually.

 

Chemist

[Chou Anou]

22 hours ago, bbi1 said:

The pay at Chula must be absolutely shithouse if all you can afford for a family of 3 is a rental of 15k baht per month  Is the pay really that bad?

I have a friend (Thai) with a PhD from a prestigious UK university who is a lecturer at Chula--yeah, the pay really can be that bad.

Edited July 6, 2017 by Chou Anou

[chemist]

Thanks for the replies so far. On Nut seems to be a viable alternative in many ways. What about Sam Rong, where the BTS system ends these days? Anyone with experience from that area (not far from On Nut, I know)?

 

How is the general traffic situation in On Nut and Sam Rong?

 

Edited July 7, 2017 by chemist
Forgot some stuff.

[chemist]

Since the subject was brought up: My salary will be about 60 k per month if I put in a little research and teach a few periods extra per week. Way better than I usually can hope for, since I'm not a native English speaker.

[DogNo1]

60 K isn't bad but it will probably be hard to save much money toward retirement.

[gk10002000]

6 hours ago, chemist said:

Since the subject was brought up: My salary will be about 60 k per month if I put in a little research and teach a few periods extra per week. Way better than I usually can hope for, since I'm not a native English speaker.

60 k a month?  Gosh, I have a BS in engineering a MS in math.  I am a native English speaker from the USA.  I wouldn't even consider 60 k even thought I would love to try teaching and living in Thailand.  If you are a scientist, guessing a chemistry major obviously, I think 60k sucks.  But if that meets your life needs, I can understand that.  But 60 K to support yourself a wife and two children?   That sounds like a big stretch.  Expats that retire to Thailand are expected to have an income of 60k per month, never mind supporting a family.  Are you sure you are planning properly?

[asiaexpat]

Look around Onnut (Sukhumvit 77) but be aware anything within reasonable walking distance of the BTS will be more than 15k per month. The Base and Delight Station Onnut currently rent studio rooms for approximately 15k. The walk to the BTS from The Base condo is easy but the trip via BTS and MRT to Sam Yan will be at least and hour. BTS Onnut to Makhasan station then skywalk to Phetchaburi MRT. MRT to Sam Yan. This route has heavy usage in the morning and evening and can require waiting for several trains.  

[asiaexpat]

Correction on route in my last post. BTS from Onnut to Asoke then MRT from Sukhumvit station to Sam Yan station. Sorry for the misleading info. 

[chemist]

5 hours ago, asiaexpat said:

Correction on route in my last post. BTS from Onnut to Asoke then MRT from Sukhumvit station to Sam Yan station. Sorry for the misleading info. 

Thanks! My plan is to take the sky train to Siam and walk to the Science Department at Chula from there. It's not that far, and I actually enjoy walking a lot.

[chemist]

15 hours ago, gk10002000 said:

60 k a month?  Gosh, I have a BS in engineering a MS in math.  I am a native English speaker from the USA.  I wouldn't even consider 60 k even thought I would love to try teaching and living in Thailand.  If you are a scientist, guessing a chemistry major obviously, I think 60k sucks.  But if that meets your life needs, I can understand that.  But 60 K to support yourself a wife and two children?   That sounds like a big stretch.  Expats that retire to Thailand are expected to have an income of 60k per month, never mind supporting a family.  Are you sure you are planning properly?

I have a PhD degree in organic chemistry. That title is a real door opener in Thailand, but when it comes to the really high salaries, such as the ones paid at hi-so private schools, these are usually reserved for native English speakers with a master in education.

 

Right now I'm working in Phetchaburi. The salary here is 38 k, and we don't have to look at every baht. So, we don't anticipate any problems living on 60 k IF we take it easy with taxi trips, eating out and stuff like that and if we live a "small town life" in for example On Nut or Sam Rong or some similar area. Generally, foreign teachers in Thailand are paid shit wages; wages that haven't changed significantly during the last ten years (at least).

 

In your case I would target the exclusive boarding schools spread across Bangkok and possibly elsewhere.

 

-Chemist

Edited July 8, 2017 by chemist
Spelling

[chemist]

One aspect when it comes to working as a teacher in Thailand is how much time you are willing to spend on the job. Maybe your school pays you well, but in return you have to attend extracurricular activities and perhaps "camps" during the weekends. The schools get what they pay for. Here in Phetchaburi, with my 38 k a month, I have the job just to be able to live in Thailand. I basically don't have to attend anything outside of the regular classroom hours (18 per week).

 

The deal with Chulalongkorn University is even better. I only have to teach 5-10 hours per week. Furthermore, I should help students with their thesis and/or project works for 3 hours per week. On top of that I will assist various research groups within the Science Department with manuscript writing (2 manuscripts per month). That's about it. I have worked a lot in academia before and let me put it this way: Lecturers and researchers don't work themselves to death once they have attained the PhD level. Nobody will protest if I leave Chula before 2 pm a Friday afternoon because we're going to Pattaya and the islands close by. What I'm getting at is that you should look att the whole package and not just only the salary. I'm not in Thailand to pursue a career. I'm here because I like living a relaxed life in a tropical climate. If all I wanted was a high salary I certainly wouldn't live here. That's what Europe and America are for.

 

-Chemist

[JerryinTH]

Lots of nice condos in that area. 35k will get you a nice 2br. 

I don't see how you can stay with 2 kids and a wife in a studio on On Nut.. thats not exactly 'living'.

[chemist]

Is the BTS system reliable if I want to commute daily from let's say On Nut to Chulalongkorn University?

[impulse]

On 7/6/2017 at 5:38 AM, bbi1 said:

The pay at Chula must be absolutely shithouse if all you can afford for a family of 3 is a rental of 15k baht per month Is the pay really that bad?

 

That's his budget, not "all he can afford".   Lots of us don't fall into the trap of being house poor.  That's the same budget I gave to the real estate agent when we went looking around Asoke.  My workmates without a budget got to look at apartments in the 75,000- 120,000 range and I got a very livable place for 20,000.  The building is older, but the management is great and I'm 2 minutes from the office.

 

[impulse]

9 minutes ago, chemist said:

Is the BTS system reliable if I want to commute daily from let's say On Nut to Chulalongkorn University?

 

Extremely reliable during operating hours from 06:00 to midnight (which may be incorrect today- my memory leaks).  There's sometimes a 1-2 train queue at Siam station getting between the Silom line and the Sukhumvit line.  But the BTS is well over 99% reliable.

 

[lime_lh]

Hello Chemist

You say you are not a native English speaker and are happy with 60k. I find your English fantastic (better than most 'natives'), and believe you deserve more than that amount.

Unfortunately, newish condos like LPN are already going for 15k but they are mostly big enough to accommodate just 2 adults with no kids. Looks like you need to consider older places.

[asanee]

1.Chula has its own pink small buses that loop around campus to connect with BTS-Siam.

2.BTS is horrendously overcrowded on that part and in the peaks. Just be aware-there is no real alternative.

3.Samrong-the ''town'' is a very  much lower-class workers mostly old-style thai shophouses,narrowly stacked onto one another. Seems to have a lot of black people living there.

Area between bangna (avoid that-a traffic-choked hellhole) and baring (the former terminus) -Srong was pretty rural and sees heavy new development along the many side-sois. Compared to Onnut it lacks enough shops/provisons etc nearby.

 You may consider using the klong Saen Saep canal boats  to live close by to it for more choice of housing. A little further from Chula, but still walkable in the western ideas.

Also dont forget that MRT=underground also is pretty close to other side of Chula (chamchuree) and also has those pink buses. With the upcoming link to the outer purple line, it opens many more areas of town to you-but commute will take longer.

[buick]

have you used hipflat.co.th/en to help with your search ?  you can edit your search to be near a particular BTS/MRT station.  and they have a 'map' feature so you can see all the properties on the map (versus a 'listing' of individual units).  if i were you, i'd pick sam yan and see if you can find something close to work.  you might have to pay a bit more than 15k, but likely less than 20k.  you'd save a little by not having to pay for the commute from another area (like onnut).  you would be walking distance to lumphini park.  the sidewalks along rama IV are not bad, somewhat wide and not to cluttered with street food stalls, sidewalk merchants, etc... 

 

certain areas of the BTS/MRT can be very crowded during rush hours.  not sure what your times of commute will be.  onnut to siam between 8-9 is about as bad as it gets.  the morning and evening commute on the MRT into/out of silom business district is also very crowded.  so you probably don't want to be using the MRT to get to work from somewhere like suttisan station. it is amazing how many people get packed in there.

 

 

[chemist]

Some of you have suggested that I, with my background, should aim for a salary higher than 60 k per month. Where do I find these high-paying jobs? Is there anything other than teaching I can do in Thailand (I only speak basic Thai), considering my PhD degree in organic chemistry and a two year University Diploma in mathematics?

 

-Chemist

[biker Bob]

On 7/7/2017 at 5:15 PM, chemist said:

Thanks for the replies so far. On Nut seems to be a viable alternative in many ways. What about Sam Rong, where the BTS system ends these days? Anyone with experience from that area (not far from On Nut, I know)?

 

How is the general traffic situation in On Nut and Sam Rong?

 

I would have a look at Soi Baring, Sukhumvit 107.  A lot of new places down that soi. 

[chemist]

On ‎7‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 3:24 PM, biker Bob said:

I would have a look at Soi Baring, Sukhumvit 107.  A lot of new places down that soi. 

My thoughts exactly! A lot of nice places to rent, and also a good school for our daughter (St Joseph's) on the same soi. I'll check the place out ASAP.

[metisdead]

Inflammatory posts have been removed. 

[chemist]

On ‎7‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 7:50 AM, metisdead said:

Inflammatory posts have been removed. 

Inflammatory posts?? Who the h**l can come up with inflammatory posts dealing with this subject? Well, I haven't seen them since I haven't looked at Thaivisa for a while. Probably for the best.

 

Cheers

 

Chemist