Jump to content

cheeryble

Advanced Member
  • Posts

    5,080
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by cheeryble

  1. 16 hours ago, Daffy D said:

    I don't quite understand what you're trying to do but this free program came to mind:-

    https://rasterbator.net/

     

    "Raserbator enlarges images to multiple pages. Print and combine them into huge posters"

     

    Raserbator.jpg.fe2982023988c29c77e5c5b798d9c093.jpg

    Anyway may be of interest to someone :thumbsup:

    This sets the imagination firing.

    so for a pic the size of say a door it might need say 60 prints on A4

    I believe black and white prints are just 2 or 3 baht but how much are colour?

  2. Damn I've lost a big post. Lets try pasting 

     

    1609692358_ArtTutorGridPic.jpg.35d41f4087e86a41efbe55b0817f3497.jpg

     

    i just used this site but had to do it in two stages 

     

    1380043435_ArtTutorGridPic(2).jpg.51c33b4de3bcf74a934d2627803c2060.jpg

     

    this method is finding the centre of the picture and marking its grif from there
    this one is good because it isolates the other part you want in a smaller to two boxes and that is just a straight division of 5 from the vertical

    Hi Andy youre really on the case already.

     

    I've gone to the Art Tutor site you used but frankly what you have drawn is just fine.

    I think I prefer the second with a 10 x 6 grid and approx 5 x 5 for the green grid looks good.

     

    Thoughts:

    I think I would like to bring the painting to the edges of the canvas rather than have a white border , but notice your gridlines come past the edge.

    I have a canvas pretty close to the proportions of the photo, so will probably just have to crop or extend the photo image left and right as necessary.

     

    IMG_8591.thumb.JPG.6b159d685d03df0e046f88c9c69511f7.JPG

     

    in fact I just measure the canvas its 150 x 80cm......L/W 1.875

    I now just measured the photo on the screen .......16cm x 9.8cm..... L/W approx 1.6

    This means the canvas is clearly a wider proportion than the photo.

    I could just add black to the left and right to righten the proportion.

    Or I think it would look OK if I cropped the bottom a bit.

    Cropping the top would lose a bit of the action, the winding track.

     

    I've just cropped a tiny bit at top and more at the bottom and the resulting proportions pretty much fit the canvas yet the change doesn't detract from the image I think......maybe even an improvement. See below.

    Chores to do will be back to work outlaying the grid on the canvas

     

    IMG_8523.jpg.998279c22a3bd9baa34b7c7c75263b6b.jpg

     

    Thanks for all help and any more bright ideas.

    It would be great to have a grid with a whole number of vertical lines starting and finishing on the L and R sides exactly.

    I realise the horizontal lines cannot be a whole number with this canvas but would be nice to have squares and the first gridline concurrent with the top or bottom

  3. 19 hours ago, Farangwithaplan said:

    how many grids wide do you want it to be top left corner to top right corner.

    How many grids wide to you want the secondary grid?

    How many grids do you want in the secondary grid?

     

     

    Do you just want the grids to be superimposed on the picture?

    What colour do you want the grid lines to be?

    Do the grid lines have to be a particular thickness or just generally thin?

     

     

     

     

    Thanks.....as Andy has posted examples that look quite satisfactory I can decide answers to your.....and my,.....queations 

    working from them I think

     

  4. Below is a photo Id like to copy with paint on A large canvas.

     

    I'd like to transfer the basic shape using a grid.

     

    If anyone's feeling particularly smart could I make a finer scale grid around the walking figure......like a grid inside one of the square or rectangles the main grid?

     

    Can anyone suggest a clever way to do this?

     

    Thanks v much

     

    IMG_8523.thumb.jpg.530ee565b620b80b574fc1ca8610d91d.jpg

  5. There's certainly been competition with all the new buildings but they are much of a sort......the 32 sqm sort you don't like. They and even most of the bigger ones look good at first but in fact are pretty low quality, narrow hallways , melamine kitchens, cheap fittings etc.

    Older buildings in very good locations have more advantages and places like Skybreeze are in great demand with all the advantages of a terrific saltwater pool and walks and rides through CMU campus and up the hills via very nice student eateries and coffee shops. 

    • Like 1
  6. I personally do not understand why it is not reasonable to be expected to have medical insurance cover here in Thailand.

     

    Everyone knows or should be aware of the non provisions for expats and should accept responsibility to make sure they have adequate cover.

     

    I personally feel obliged to make sure, should I have need of it I am covered and carry a medical card around with me all the time.

     

    I am now 75 and came here 27 years ago and have been covered from the day my initial 180 UK I had ran out.

     

    Sure the premiums go up but I am safe in the knowledge I can depend on it should the need ever arise.

     

    I'm not sure what the alternatives are but do know that without back up funds or M. Ins. your chances of getting free cover are zero as of the last time I read an article covering this important subject.

     

    There could also be a massive bill being issued to your loved ones following the initial emergency treatment we are allowed ?????

     

    Get insured you know it makes sense

     

    Busby

     

     

    I prefer to pay for myself and choose where I will be treated and buy meds and not pay for others who are insured and automatically go to the most expensive places.

    I prefer not to pay for insurance offices and staff and advertising etc, and not be subject to their decisions.

    In some instances if time allows I may decide to return for free treatment in the country in which I paid in in my younger years to benefit in my older years.

     

    I would end with a question:

    I have at least one chronic condition which will certainly not get covered by insurance. Do insurance companies reduce premiums if they reduce their potential payouts by reducing conditions covered?

     

    I understand there’s a place for insurance but not for me thanks

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

  7. I got an extension of stay to my non-O visa stamp very recently same as the last 15 years. If it turns out I need to get insurance would it have to be by 31 October or would it have to be when I next apply for an extension?

     

    I realize answering can be difficult.

     

    Secondly if I got married officially does this get rid of the need for this health insurance?

    Thanks

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect

     

  8. I double checked my passport and indeed on the first stamps it clearly says non-O.

     

    So I just looked up on WIKI and found this among other types of visa 

     

    IMG_8576.jpg.1514a3cb89b6ddc414f16324eb905462.jpg

     

    So firstly it says retirement visa is O-A not O

    Secondly where does the "non" as in non-O come into it?

     

    Lastly i looked up the longstay govt website to see what the annual premium might be....doesn't seem to be available.

    As the sum covered is only 400k one would presume the premium would be much less than the premium private insurance companies have been offering as they would be on the hook for very large "sums insured" and people I know who are insured tend to go to expensive hospitals. So dow we know whats being offered?

     

    Thoughts?

     

    EDIT:

    It looks like the longstay.tgia site indeed points to private companies not some sort of govt scheme.

    I personally have been self insuring, have the assets to do so, and am happy doing so. If I have to get insurance I will no longer have the option to "shop around" and make major economies on treatment and pharmaceuticals

  9. Two conflicting answers but still much appreciated You both have your own experience. As the rafters are short And came from the local village crew they’re probably then they are probably thin.

    As for concrete board don’t think necessary JS don’t forget there is a metal sheet roof above and then the profiled insulation clued in glued gluedIn there certainly won’t be any leakage and Doubt any condensation… But perhaps it wouldn’t Hurt to use the green Chiprock For a few baht extra.

    Only other question is what centers to put the horizontally placed galvanized strips on to leave the joins in the plasterboard short enough they won’t crack open.I would guess 40 cm?

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect

     

     

  10. Yes, I agree, not wood! The guys who installed my gypsum board (inside), and concrete board with mosquito proof ventilation holes (outside, under the eaves) installed a layer of light metal galvanised strips that are then screwed into directly through the board with no need for drilling. Mine are at 40cm centres to prevent sagging (at their recommendation), but 60cm centres is basically fine too - or so they told me.

    Like this (and it is cheap as chips): 
     
    67687250_488614778568866_3462040448585957376_n.jpg.a641d0c0d455ff0d88dab8ca05049a9e.jpg


    The light galvanized strips need to be screwed with holes into the rafter? And the self tappers thru gypyroc into Galvanised strips?


    Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app
  11. I certainly agree that single lengths is great to ensure a leak free roof, even in the fiercest storms. My lengths were 9.1m and almost unbelievably they came on a pickup with a special frame fitted (see picture earlier in the thread). I also agree that the 2 or 3mm glued on insulation with reflective foil massively cuts down heat transfer and deadens the sound of rain. I fitted it on my outdoor bathroom that I built ahead of building the main house and I am very happy with it. Mine's been on for a year and hasn't sagged or fallen apart yet, but I have seen many that have. I don't know how you go about choosing the good stuff? I guess I was just lucky. I bought that from Lion Steel in Hangdong, Chiang Mai. I'm glad to hear yours is working out well for you.

     

    I also want to share in more detail, for anyone interested, the alternative way I chose for my main house:

     

    For my main house I chose the "hard" bonded insulation from Bluescope and am super pleased with it. I also went for the foil bonded on its underside to prevent heat radiating downwards, but if you were leaving it exposed there is a paintable option too. The bonded insulation actually gives a flat ceiling to its underside and I have seen a friend leave this exposed on a "lean to" to his house and painted it to match the house - it actually gives a decent flat ceiling and looks good.

     

    The real reasons I went with the 25mm bonded insulation is that it is much quieter during rain and very little heat passes through (25mm insulation makes a significant difference compared to a couple of mm). I have a gypsum ceiling fitted 8" below the roof (at the same angle) with no rockwool and have mosquito proof ventilation all the way along both the top and bottom eves.

     

    The idea is that air enters at the bottom eve, passes between the gypsum and the well insulated roof covering, and any heat and moisture that is there leaves at the top eve. I have to say that it works really well - physics in action I guess! The idea behind no rockwool being installed is partly to save money on something not needed with this system, and also to let heat out through the gypsum at night. It seems that with the well insulated covering and good "attic space" ventilation the rockwool isn't needed - at least on my house (my gypsum ceilings are just at ambient temperature, even in the middle of the day). I also went for a white colour on top since the way my house is situated you never see the roof anyway, and it is by far the most reflective colour - again keeping the heat out of my tiny attic space!

     

    My covering with the 25mm bonded insulation cost B100,000 including fixings for a roof of 26m x 9.1m (237 square metres). That works out at about B420 per square meter for covering (including fixings and flashings) with no loft insulation to buy. Not super cheap, but not bad either and is certainly one way to a quiet, cool, and cost effective roof. YMMV!  [emoji846]

     

     

    We had The roof on mom’s original bungalow and verandah I built extendedA couple of meters or so With no insulation as it’s just at the edge.

    Where we joined Mum’s Bungy to the main new house with a room 3 m wide x 5m long on the back the guys have used what I think you’re talking about, a profiled firm insulation.

    We will probably slap some Chiprock GYPROC underneath it as I think that insulation will be enough as in your case.

    So the job will be to attach the Jip rock to the raftersThere. Do you think the best thing is to attach timbers 2*1 First with hard as nails glue then screw the chip rock or will the Jip rock screw straight into the rafters Which after all are quite light weight?

    IMG_8525.JPG.b067b814cddc9cce7dabfece2e6fc956.JPGIMG_8526.JPG.e138be9fc76ee06264b38d2f68174c22.JPG

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

  12. Okay, maybe I am using wrong words, buy these are the one I mean59d885c7c0f2a_images(45).jpg.d344fba257ea968ceaf29ce4f5629fbb.jpg&key=e2dc3080e45537fb0cc5475c205e506d72c3ea760e137e5408722d9341e3d78a

     

    Are those large red tiles or sheets insulated?

    If not if I was you I would go for the regular metal sheet from top to bottom one piece Probably cheaper too .....And certainly nice to have that glued on thin insulation I don’t think you need to think of expensive stuff that’s profiled, Combined with Rockwool on the ceilings rock wool on the ceilings it’s great.

    Your sheets will most likely involve wastage two as your Sheets are unlikely to fit exactly top to bottom where as the long metal sheets Are just cut to length

     

    The following pic is some time ago now larger and neater

    IMG_6520.JPG.88e5df91d0cec0959c793fca2b92b621.JPG

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

     

  13. I should've mentioned that the Bluescope steel roofing came from the place found at (18.761777, 99.041102). It doesn't seem to come up in any English search, but this is the main Bluescope place in Chiang Mai and the prices via them are comparable to non-Bluescope elsewhere. You will, of course, need a Thai speaker. We found their service and prices to be excellent, and with a large product range too.

    If you buy Bluescope from anywhere else it is much more expensive. I don't know for sure, but I assume all of the other outlets are just resellers from this place - with associated price mark-up.

    You're welcome...  [emoji846]

     

    Damn wish I’d known about yr Bluescope place before, we only bought the last of the sheet a couple of months ago


    Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app
  14. On September 25, 2019 at 6:18 PM, eyecatcher said:

    Metal sheets, they dont make steel tiles.

    Profiled metal sheets start at about 180bt/m2

    4*2 structural steel say  300bt/m2

    Cheap 2" insulation 50bt/m2

     

    Thats a cheap charlie building a shed standard.

    Quality job, double it.

    Hey Mr Eye aren't the rafters on 120cm centres, and other 4x2 only at ridge and bottom, and valleys?

    Does 300bt/m2 sound a lot?

  15. Get the sheets with the glued on 3mm foam with reflective coating.

    Decent quality so the foam doesn't come off, but we felt no need for the best Bluescope..........if we have to change the sheet in 10 years or whenever it will be cheap, frame and fascias already there, the sheets up in a day.

    Also didn't feel the need for hidden attachments.

    If you combine the thinly (but surprisingly efficaciously) insulated sheet with above ceiling Rockwool you,ll be well insulated for heat and noise, I've now been through storms and its a pleasant muffled sound.

    Go to a supplier he will calculate the prices quickly.

  16. You’re bang on Ubonjoe.

    I spoke to an old Thai friend who I’d heard had been doing an immigration service.

    She said like you I can safely go at 8.

    She said we don’t need her help, and listed what was needed.

    One thing in particular she noted was that not only do I need the bank letter......which I now have......but that I also need to update the bank books (i have the money in two accounts same bank) on application day, which will be tomorrow, Thursday 26th.) as the bank won’t be open early this needs to be done at an update machine. All with signed copies of course except the original bank letter. Go figure.

     

    I do still have a kind of urgent question.

     

    At 8am or whenever I or the missus get a number what do we need to show at that stage? Is it just the passport because it would be much more convenient to update the bank books and get all my copies opposite immigration after having the number.

    And what happens at 9.......is that when appointment times are given out?

    Can I get my updates and copies between 9 and my appointment?

    Basically I’m concerned whether a passport alone is enough to get a number and I might be left high and dry.

     

    Ps by the by is it possible to get a bank book updated in the update machine of another bank if I just pay a fee or has to be my own bank?

     

    Do hope I can get an answer tonight or early morn8ng

     

    Thanks v much!

     

    Pps I have Parkinson’s and a hospital letter, and it is v uncomfortable to stand up, certainly not in a line. Worse than walking. Is there some sort of accommodation made for those like me? Seats? If not I’ll be sitting on the deck :).....seriously!

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect

     

     

  17. You can apply up to 30 days prior (45 days some offices).
    Never a good idea to leave it until the last minute.

    Yeah been busy and overlooked it.

    I thought I’d heard one can go like 8 or so now.
    Was hoping so as 7 isn’t in my universe really.
    Prefer not to make wife get up she needs the rest.
    Is there a. Recommended queueing service to get number anyone?


    Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app
  18. Sorry the same old subject...but it changes

    A bit late for this (due by 28th Sept.) so need to do it right.

    My wife has offered to do the early queue for me.

    I figure I need to get bank letter tomorrow Wednesday 25th, then missus queues next day Thursday 26th.

    1. What time does she need to queue, and bearing in mind I’d need an hour or two to arrive can she request a 'not before' time

    2. Hope to go Thursday or Friday, but are extensions issued Saturday?

    3. I have Parkinson’s.....v uncomfortable standing long....do they have any arrangements for those like me?

     

    Thanxalot

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

×
×
  • Create New...