Crossy

The whole point of using TNC-S is to provide a metallic (low resitance) path from your earthed metalwork back to the star-point of the transformer. This means that any L-E fault will create enough current to operate the circuit protection (MCB). In the past the system actually provided a separate ground connection back to the star point as TNS. Without that metallic connection you are reliant on the resistance via your rod which could be several hundred ohms. Hence the need for a protective device that operates at a much lower current (your RCD/RCBO). Having lots of N earthing points (MEN) reduces the risk imposed by a broken neutral. Detailed discussion, diagrams etc. in the Wiki here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system

You should be able to get an RCBO to replace the main breaker. Check the size because that CU looks a bit small top-bottom. OR Replace individual MCBs with single width RCBOs so you can protect only the "risky" circuits and not lose everything if there's a problem. Obviously both solutions would need the plug-in type unit rather than DIN.

If it's buried nobody will ever know although I personally wouldn't put the VAF in there, singles would be fine. If you do go with VAF in the trunking/conduit de-rate to 17A (in reality you are never likely to get near that on an outlet circuit). Our wiring is in chased conduit, of course it was done during construction so the mess wasn't an issue. 24,000 BTU A/C will use about 2.4kW at full chat - 11A - No worries whatever on 2.5 unless the run as very long ???? The biggest water heater you could put on 2.5 would be 4.5kW - 20A or so - Might be too small if you are up-north or like DIY skin removal.

That small square trunking stuff looks like a good idea, singles in there and you're good to go. Unless the load is large and constant I'd not worry about 2.5mm2 singles overheating. There's nothing to stop you using a 1.5mm2 earth conductor to gain a little more space.

How would the leakage get from the earthing system to the camera, the plug is 2 pin? Agree with the comment on meters, all sorts of interesting voltages can be read by a high z voltmeter, although our OP is feeling the tingle so there's at least some current behind it. I really don't think there's much our OP can do, adding a ground to the camera should stop the tickle but may introduce other issues if he's using wired connections to the studio (but the wired connection should introduce studio ground anyway unless the whole lot is floating around!).

Just avoid any girlfriends called Amber

Our local plastic mouldings place has assorted boats, I'm sure there's something similar near you. Another place at Talad Thai.

Getting splashed isn't a concern although directing the shower at it should be avoided. Proper earthing and an RCBO (it probably has one built-in too) and you're good to go.

It was a long time ago, 1950's early 60s, if they did fall off the beast would pause whilst they climbed back on for a rather damp school day. They would all be hopping on a motocy now, probably more hazardous ????

OK, all MCBs off, remove the link between the RCD N out and the N bar immediately above, this should isolate the RCD completely - still trip? If it does I think you have a defective unit, which bit did you replace?? If it's ok try with earths off and neutrals off connecting one N at a time until it trips. Dumb question, is the "Test" button stuck?? EDIT Whilst all the neutrals are off the N bar check that it is isolated from the box.

Long, long ago my wife went to a school that was on the "wrong" side of a river, it was about a 1km walk to the nearest bridge. If she had been very good she and her sister were allowed to ride the water buffalo across the river standing barefoot on its back. Send the buffalo home once at school. Reverse the procedure to go home, buffalo was sent over to collect them. Of course she's told my English grand-daughters about this, they have informed us that they've done elephants last time they were here, they want to do water buffaloes next time!

In reality it's a non-issue, modern equipment is polarity insensitive (if you have a 1960's TV which is "live chassis"** it's a different matter). It should however be fixed, easy DIY if you have a screwdriver ???? ** A lot of early TVs and wirelesses had no mains transformer. One pole of the supply (the neutral) was connected directly to the chassis, the other (live) went through a meaty dropper resistor before supplying all the valve heaters (in series) and being rectified to provide the valve HT. Obviously reversing the supply on one of these could get "interesting".

Why did I read this as "no more than 5 on a motorcycle"???

Are they sick ones??

Around 25kg a piece. MegaHome have some even bigger ones, gave me a hernia just looking at them!!

Right now prices seem to be sliding downwards after a peak at the end of last year. I think I'd wait unless I was installing immediately. EDIT https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2014234503503 Jinyuan 340W poly panels 3,750 Baht a pop, seems to be plentry of stock. OR https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2103200552946 Trina 445W mono at 5,390 Baht each, rather limited stock.

Yup ^^^ if you get a "domestic" contactor they are the same form-factor as DIN mount breakers, handy and neat mounting in a DIN box. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/ac-240v-25a-2-reed-ac-contactor-2p-closed-domestic-35-mm-din-rail-i3698218298-s13991069206.html

Most if not all inverter A/Cs have a "minimum cooling rate" below which the compressor (and the outside fan) does actually shut down. This is probably what you are seeing. The min and max cooling capacities should be in the manual, time to open the plastic bag

Get yourself one of these chaps https://www.lazada.co.th/products/habotest-ht107t-plus-ht107b-socket-tester-thunelectric-i2557036299-s9098364095.html?

I find it very difficult to believe that a long term member with over 2k posts is unaware of the yellow tabien baan (house book for foreigners) and the pink "foreigner" ID card.

One assumes the tripod bush on the camera is electrically connected to the bit that's doing the shocking.

Tripping with all the branch MCBs off? Look for a N-E fault, damp or bugs in an outlet somewhere possibly. You could start by disconnecting all the neutrals from your neutral bar (all breakers off) then connect them one at a time until you get a trip. Then investigate that circuit. If it still trips with all the neutrals isolated then time to start posting photos of the distribution board wiring. I'm assuming there have been no recent wiring changes of course.

The old adage is "Volts Jolts, Mills Kills", as Steve notes above 1mA is around the threshold of perception (but people vary significantly, I can certainly feel around half that), anything over 5mA or so and you will know all about it!! You could try measuring the leakage current to ground by measuring the voltage across, say 10kohm resistor between ground and the power supply output (your meter is unlikely to be able to measure AC currents this small so we have to convert them into a voltage and then use Mr Ohm's law V/R=I). With small shocks it's not actually the shock that does the damage, it's the involuntary reaction to the tingle, drop the screwdriver, fall off the ladder etc. Adding a ground to the camera certainly won't hurt (if it has RCA connectors the shield makes a good access point to the metalwork). Beware of earth loops introducing hum on the audio if you have wired connections into the studio kit (although those ought to stop the tingle by themselves if the studio is properly grounded).

Any indication where it came from? Maybe they still have that valve.