Crossy

Love 'em to bits, but this is the single best photo I took whilst they were here. That's the back end of the van taking them to the airport

UK grandkids were here for 3 weeks in April which also skewed the PEA consumption by increasing our daily usage "somewhat", it's also been hot, hot, hot. In a normal month we would have easily covered everything using solar.

Here we are, May 1st. April figures. Potentially confusing as we are in the throes of an upgrade expanding to 13.1kWP on 14-April then further expanding to 15.3kWP on 22-April. That's it for panel expansion for now, got to sort out storage and new inverters next. EDIT According to PEA's bill estimator the 1,392kWh our solar created out of thin air would be worth 6,962Baht.

Probably less than that in reality (closer to 15A tops), and once rooms are down to temperature ...

A pukka 3-phase pump will have very different windings to a single-phase capacitor pump, what you are measuring resistance wise suggests you do have the right kind of motor (it wouldn't be the first time although an actual 3-phase motor likely wouldn't have run at all). Anyway, since you seem to be drawing something like stall current, I wonder if the rotor is locked (sucked in a rock?) or is it even actually seized.

Before hauling the beast up 70m, try testing the capacitor by substitution, it's by far the most likely failure point. Are you getting those currents in each wire but the pump isn't actually running?? I'm assuming you have a single-phase, capacitor-run (3-wires + ground) rather than an actual 3-phase pump. If the pump is actually new then it's time to go back to the supplier if it's not the capacitor.

And like magic ...

Believe it or not you can get pretty much anything from some little retail shop down a side alley, it's knowing where to go that's the trick. Your first port of call should be your local bike-taxi chaps, they know everything and everyone, and once you know where to go, they'll even go and pick up an exchange bottle for a nominal fee.

Yeah, using 48V rated fuses in a "48V" system may not necessarily be a good idea, battery voltage can be over 58V at times. Although in this case the fuses were apparently correctly rated.

Absolutely NOT us!!! The linked thread is an interesting read. Fire investigators determined that it was a fuse that continued to arc after it had opened that initiated the conflagration. Many forum members do not necessarily agree.

Take care out there chaps, mitigate against the worst possible outcome ... https://diysolarforum.com/threads/house-burned-down.83098/

Actually, I do use online banking apps and am fully aware of the history available. I was just pointing out that transactions can appear in the history long after one would imagine they should. Since you evidently don't need further help, I'll not bother.

There is no such thing as "British English" there is just English and the US version developed by British-hating Noah Webster. Neither is "better", neither is "correct" (many will disagree with me on that point), both work equally well provided the context is understood and clear. What irks me is when someone mixes the two, particularly in technical documents (evidently just copy/paste). Example from a recent document "The Initialize screen is used when the operator wants to initialise cards". Grrr.

you can get pretty accurate by starting with a small (3mm or so) masonry bit, (they don't wander as readily as bigger ones) then gradually enlarging the hole to your desired size, but it still may not be accurate enough.

Are you saying that you checked a neighbour's place and they don't jump? If so, you may have a bad connection somewhere. Any "fizzing" noises or "interesting" smells? check all your breakers for discolouring of the plastic. Check the voltage at your incoming breaker, and at the meter. Whilst you are there check that the connections are tight, use a well-insulated screwdriver, wear rubber gloves (new washing-up gloves will do) just to ensure you don't get a tingle.

Task-A = fit new batteries in your meter. If you have an older analog type multimeter you can use that to see if the voltage really is hopping around (this type of meter still has its uses).

Yeah, that's what I meant by my last sentence "Pack behind it where your wall is less than straight." I would fix it at two ends, then determine where your other screws will go preferably where the wood is actually touching the wall, no packing needed then.

Inverter units are much more tolerant of low supply voltage, but they behave as constant-power loads, lower voltage means they pull more amps => even lower voltage ... Exactly the same real issues as using an AVR. I'd hang on until PEA come up with a solution unless you can get a suitable AVR (about 3kVA) to just run your larger A/C for a sensible price to bridge you over the hot period.

Do check your historical transactions. I've noticed that Lazada refunds, whilst taking to the "next billing cycle", actually appear on the statement at the date the refund was processed (so if you were refunded on Feb 29th look there on your online transactions) so that could be well in the past.

Indeed, although in the case of LiFePO4 packs if the hydrogen is being emitted there're rather more serious issues afoot. Now, if we are using lead-acid then ...

Hmmm, great minds ... Also a Toshiba of similar vintage! OK, it was Madam who installed the bungee, my claim to fame is that I made the cat keyholder when I was about 6.

At least the flood will put the fire out! Seriously, Lithium-Iron-Phosphate (LiFePO4) chemistry is much safer than the NMC (or Li-ion) chemistry used in your smartphone, scooter, hover-board, monowheel and a lot of EVs and has a much-reduced tendency to "thermal-runaway". Many suggest that they are at least as safe as lead-acid (which have a different set of safety issues). LiFePO4 will burn if persuaded but most incidents involving them seem to be of an electrical rather than chemical nature. At least, that's how they start, a shorted LiFePO4 cell will out-gas and one of the products is hydrogen which is somewhat flammable. Concentrate on good electrical design and implementation, adequately rated cables protected by suitable breakers and/or fuses. It's far better to avoid starting a conflagration rather than to try to extinguish one. Our friends at the National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) have things to say about ESS installation and location. Chapter 15 is the relevant bit for domestic systems. <Removed copyrighted document, plenty of places to download it> EDIT You can view direct from the NFPA website for free (you have to create a free account) start here: - https://link.nfpa.org/free-access/publications/855/2020 EDIT 2: - Actually, you can view the latest version too.

Ignoring (for now) the actual chemical energy that's contained in the various battery chemistries (some are rather more "energetic" than others). It is worth remembering that a 10kWh battery pack (about 200Ah @ 48V) contains about as much energy as a litre of petrol/gasoline. Treat your batteries as you would the gas can for your mower! Once our packs are fully configured, we will have >60kWh of storage, about 1.5 US gallons of gas! That's staying well away from our home!! If it decides to go "whoosh" we may lose the car-port and the car but the house should be well out of range.

That's not a breaker. THIS is a breaker! The 250A DC MCCB which I intend using as an overall battery isolator sitting next to one of the more regular MCBs we find in our homes!

Mike Pinder, a singer, songwriter and keyboard player who helped form the progressive-rock band the Moody Blues and was among the first and most prominent exponents of an early electronic instrument, the Mellotron, died April 24 at his home near Sacramento. He was 82. His son Daniel Pinder confirmed the death but did not provide a specific cause. Mr. Pinder was the last surviving member of the original lineup of the Moody Blues. https://www.washingtonpost.com/obituaries/2024/04/25/mike-pinder-moody-blues-dead-obituary/