Muhendis

Agreed but the poachers will know about it soon enough anway.

I used my Tabien Baan which I forgot on the day so had to pop back home for it. This error was quite fortunate because, by the time I got back to the DLT, the crowds had thinned out and I whistled through in under an Hour. The medical cert can be got from your local private clinic for 100 Baht but these clinics, staffed by a doctor from the local hospital. tend to be only open evenings and week ends.

I should add that I don't use my bore hole water except in an emergency. That water causes a lot of damage particularly in the solar heated hot water system. My bore hole water calcium carbonate reading is way off the scale at over 2,000 ppm. I almost exclusively use a surface water well which, after passing through the resin filter, is so soft it feels like the soap is never completely rinsed off.

Then it may change to save the "Banteng protesters".

I recently did mine. First do the test in English on line and print it. Then just turn up with Tabien Baan et.al. at the dlt. And within a couple of hours go home with nice shiny new licence. The appointment is for people who don't do the test on line and need to reserve a seat to watch the video for an hour.

Mine also works like a dream although there's nothing automatic about it. I need to spend maybe half a day back flushing the sediment tanks and rejuvenating the resin. I will be changing one of the sediment filter tank media to a turbidity reducing media. No problem in the last ten years but the extra rain in 2022 produced a whole load of suspended particles which pre storage tank filters can't do much about. The plus side is that my wife can see how hard I work to keep the house systems in order which she seems to find comforting.

A resin filter would be the first choice however the are only good for 10% of the problem. If you don't mind spending Mega bucks you could get a CDI unit like this; https://www.lenntech.com/processes/capacitive-deionization-cdi-.htm

Sounds good for free compost. We have a drain for ours also but nothing has ever come out of it as far as I know. It empties into a ditch which only has water in it for a couple of months of the year.

Nah. Spring return but same motor runs backwards.

And eat them? Euck! Been in my house for ten or more years and never pumped the sceptic tanks. All still works fine as far as I know.

I'll remember that next time I look at a klong.

The final solution. Float switch in tank. When tank is full float switch closes and sends a signal to solar panel array. A motor runs pulling a blind across the panels thus preventing pump from running. When the water is used another float switch, located near the bottom of the tank, closes and the blind uncovers the panels allowing more water to be pumped into the tank. ???? No animals were harmed in working out this solution.

But at the same time make facilities/amenities available for the majority who want to do the right thing.

Good thinking and all worked out well. However. The reasoning is incomplete. In a 3 phase system the ATS needs to detect if any one phase is down. So the internals of the switch will be such that all inputs need to have power and if any one phase is lost the relay will be de-energised.

Back to you Chinese junk?

Please make sure that the output side is wired with the two neutrals connected together and the two lives connected together like in the drawing.

Not on mine but I suppose different switches can do different things. The installation book is the definitive source for this info. Needless to say those green connectors can be left alone for a basic change over function.

https://www.google.com/search?q=inside+an+auto+transfer+switch+tear+dpwn&source=lmns&bih=937&biw=1920&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiIxvf4h9b9AhV0q1YBHVVQCjEQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:8b6337cb,vid:m1cX25IO2Bo,st:17

They are nothing to do with the basic function but are volt free and can be used for gen set starting.

Inside the ATS there is a relay, a motor and two main MCBs. The relay is powered by the "N" circuit I think and will remain energised until power is lost at that input. When the relay is de-energised the motor is powered to cause the MCBs to switch over to the "R" circuit. The opposite happens when power is restored to "N" input. Make sure the supply to the "N" side and the "R" side is good.

That's a good idea in conjunction with a ballcock. The riser would need a spring loaded relief valve to ensure that the pump can't misdirect water out through it under normal tank filling conditions. The scenario would be that the tank fills. The ballcock closes. Pumped water pressure overcomes relief valve and pump merrily carries on working without undue stress. The relief valve could be at the pump end of the pipe so that pumped but unwanted water can return to the lake. Oh. Wait a minute. I think I already said that..................????

Have you considered the Automatic (sorry) Syphon approach. When the water in the tank gets too high, the syphon will start draining water out 'til the water level gets to the bottom of the syphon inlet. No power needed but I have no idea where to get or how to make one. They can be found as science projects on google.

Could be done but I thought this forum was for the frugal approach.

Mount a mobile phone on a three port solenoid valve so that when the mobile phone rings the valve will open allowing the pumped water to return to the point of origin thus no longer filling the tank. Said solenoid valve is powered from the pump solar panel and reverts to tank filling state when night falls. Ok back to serious solutions.

I go with the fat Rat snake too.