canthai55

Sure - let's all ride Chinese 10hp bikes. All we need

Three days ago I bought the NMAX that I posted about previously.

Congrats on the new bike.

+1 for Pacsafe products. Have 2 of their bags, used them for years. High quality.

Just looked at a M3 hatchback in Chiang Mai this morning. Nice. Top spec except for paddle shifter and sunroof

1,094,000

Some posters here are seriously deluded.

Name me one country in the world which practices REAL democracy. Answer - not one.

Oh sure - they tell you it is, and if you believe that I have some ocean front property in Switzerland for sale.

Politics is controlled by the wealthy - always has been, always will be.

Remember venetian blinds for the inside of the rear window ?

So you had a car with more grunt than a cobra on a straight 400m piece of road.... thats awesome.

Did the dinosaur also eat up the Cobra out on the road through the twisty bits ?

Think you will find that the AC Cobra - as well as the Tiger - were not great handling cars.

Especially the Big Blocks in the AC. Very front heavy, lots of understeer - which could be compensated for with the throttle but still ...

Down the straights tho' - very quick.

TA's Poncho the same - wins by Big Torque and Good Traction

+1 Boyesen. Used them in my dirt bikes for years.

Wish he was around in my racing days !! Would have saved many hours cutting and welding expansion chambers looking for that little bit extra.

My advise - do not post garbage like this in your opening post -

""I mean, I've been in all kind of scum in this trash country,""

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer, NO..........I could put a V8 in a fridge, put wheels on it to go quick, but......

Guys putting 1000cc bike engines in go carts - how would that suit you.

200 kph 2 inches off the ground !!

Back to the OP ...

I see a couple of problems in installing a softer suspension - where to get in LOS is the first one. In North America it would not be an issue - all the aftermarket manufacturers can provide technical info to enable you to set up your ride just how you want it. Any reputable spring manufacturer can build leaf or coil springs to suit - even variable rate springs so you would not loose too much load carrying capacity while ensuring a smooth ride when unladen.

The second one - finding someone with the knowledge to give you proper advise here.

Might be worth a look at the racers. Many savvy tuners here, just a matter of finding one who understands what you want, and can steer you in the right direction of where to source the parts.

ECU - many places. 3.0 Toyota very popular.

Big brakes - in my opinion these and the large diameter wheels with ultra low profile tires is more a 'Look At Me' thing and bring no practical value in the real world. The ride suffers from the lack of sidewall, are very noisy - and you pay through the noise for the privilege.

Good Luck

Safety issue as the rubber diaphragm can develop leaks.

Glad to hear your positive experience.

I have a Thai friend who has had much the same to say regarding the brand.

Then why didn't they fit soft springs from factory with stout sway bars..?

Why didn't Pontiac build their Trans Am like you did yours ?

Same answer I guess - people want to modify to suit an intended purpose.

But to make 100% sure - ask Toyota. Or GM.

Same non-answer from both parties.

copying is all they have ever done since WW2.

As is quoted in my post, this is what I was replying to.

Then why didn't they fit soft springs from factory with stout sway bars..?

Spring rate determined by GVW of the vehicle.

If you never approach this figure, then go softer for improved ride and handling.

Why not fitted from factory - cost.

If you soften the springs you may get a problem with body roll, just not worth the risk in my opinion.

Springs mostly handle vertical loads - pitch.

Yaw and roll control will be handled by a good set of sway bars and quality shock absorbers.

Springs carry the weight of the vehicle. Shock absorbers damped the oscillations of the spring.

If you want a softer ride, you need to install springs with a lower rate.

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/spring-rate-vs-load-rate/

changing needle and needle jets every 10k miles or 15k kms.

Never done it. Never needed to. And do not know anyone else who has had to.

Found these in USA. Sent email for a list of carb parts he can supply. Will bring over for you if you need.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-K-L-KEIHIN-VB-VD-CARBURETOR-N424-26-SLOW-JET-55-18-4808-/181614061204

Been restoring old bikes and cars my whole life. 1950's Brit, 1960's Jap, HD, Indians.

You need a source of spare parts, a shop manual, and the mechanical know-how to do the work. And a large tool collection.

Sounds like all the above is lacking here.

One thing I have learned - old is just that - old. Plastic brittle, rubber hard, junk.

What I would do to this bike if it was mine - say the carbs are 30mm. Buy a new Mikuni of about 45mm. Take new carb - which is NEW, has nitrile seals so gasahol is not a problem, you can get parts for it ... to a welding shop that does AC GTAW. Have a simple Y manifold fabricated so the one carb can feed both cylinders.

Install with new throttle cable.

Jet as per Mikuni instructions. Buy a IR non-contact temp gun to set jetting according to exhaust port temps.

Throw all the old carb junk far away.

Then do the same for the ignition system. This leaves you with NEW induction, NEW electrical, and the old air pump - meaning the pistons, cylinders, heads etc.

Best thing I ever did to ALL of the old junk I restored. Runs like new - because it is.

As I have said I want new ones, the originals are very old and the bike runs a bit rough, with one cylinder rich the other lean, with both mixture screws in the same position, both carbs synchronised and both floats set at 7.5mm.

Everything else on the fuel system has been renewed and so I want to get everything up to date.

I already have jet cleaners, which actually only fit the main jet, the other pilot jet #35 being too small even for the tiny size 6.

These pictures were taken from a website, they are not mine, as I have said, mine are a bit manky..

Jets do not wear out. Carbs do. On old ones, the hard chrome piston rides right on the aluminum body of the carb. After many miles, there is clearance between the two. If this is so, you will never get it to run crisp.

Old bikes - first thing is replace carbs with new. Can't get the same ones, get close enuf or switch to Mikuni.

Or do what the guys do who restore Vincents, etc. Bore the carb body, insert sleeve, hone to correct clearance.

Now it looks old, but it ain't. It's new.

Soak in carb cleaner, and use a tip cleaner designed for an oxy acetylene torch.

Available at any tool shop who sells welding supplies.

Be gentle, as you do not want to change the diameter of the holes, or make them egg shaped.

16 year old truck with rusty water in rad - my guess is the rad is plugged. Pressure test will only show leaks. If the rad tubes are full of rust particules it will pressure test OK but you will not get the water circulation required to keep the engine cool.

If it were mine I would flush - probably 3 or 4 times, bypassing the rad, and replace it. Along with a new thermostat.