Lancashirelad

Your post is a bit unclear. Are you taking the same vehicle for test that your son took last year? I can't answer your question, but as for taking older diesels for test: put some injector cleaner through it a week before and give it a good thrashing in the days just before the test.

Whilst recovering from minor surgery I've finally had time to read your vlog. Very interesting & well written. Thanks for the link.

Hand book should tell you. Sticker inside the filler flap? Phone/see the main agent.

Yes springs need to be on to do a leak test. Never heard of using water, always used petrol, it will leak where water wont. Maybe look for tuned/customised car groups on F-book and ask there.

LHD cars not allowed on the road in Thailand. The gas pedal would still be on the right. OP be aware many car footwells will not have sufficent room to fit a gas pedal to the left of the brake. A hand operated throttle would probably be a simpler option. (I have fitted several sets of dual controls to driving school cars).

When I buy a dashcam it will be one that does not have a screen, they are distracting, especially at night and entirely unecessary.

There are numerous breakers yards in Bang Na, I don't know where specifically.

That's true, but it's rare to see a coppper cored rad these day. I have one on my 1963 Land Rover.

I didn't say that (although its correct) Canthai55 did, but you have attributed the post to me.

We usually agree on most things here, but 'work' and 'labour' are the same thing. ????

inferior cooling?

On the other hand, I've never seen a top hose connection glued on, they are part of the tank moulding. Example: Aluminium radiator with plastic tanks.

Many modern radiators have ally cores with plastic header and footer tanks.

OP regarding your coolant loss issue, you need to establish if your engine is losing or using it. If using a compression test would be the next step.

To do this yourself and get a decent finish you need some knowledge of how to sand the rust spots. No doubt there are plenty of 'How to' videos on Youtube. You start with a medium grade paper and gradually work down to an almost smooth wet n dry. (used wet). Once primed & dry the primer needs to be sanded. If you can see any sanding scratches in the primer, it will need more sanding and more primer. Good preparation is the key to a good finish. As Kwasaki said, it is not expensive to get panels resprayed in Thailand and it will be far better job.

Not recommended. This leads to a harsh ride, premature central band wear and poor emergency stopping capabilities in the wet.

I agree. My point was that the cheapest (which is what the OP was asking for) when it comes to learning a life skill may not be the best option.

I'd go for a diesel auto. As Kwasaki said, Isuzu or Toyota. (Just about any garage is familiar with them). There are various websites in Thailand where you can check prices of vehicles for sale. I don't have a list to hand but Bahtsold is one. Bargains can sometimes be found from farang who are returning to their home country.

On 27.10.2015 a user named puuchai299 wrote on Thaivisa: I was a UK Government approved Driving Instructor for 24 years. (though I didn't do it full time). Nowadays if anyone asks me for recommendations I tell them to look for the most expensive independant instructor they can find, NOT THE CHEAPEST. There is a reason that instructor has a full diary and is able to command their fee.

https://www.redbookasiapacific.com/th/index.php?lang=en&

Are trains not running?

With most vehicles the VIN does not give the exact date of manufacture. From the serial number (last 6 digits)* that information can be accessed by Honda. *The number of digits may vary by manufacturer.

Positive earth polarity was phased out in the 60's. I have a 1963 Land Rover that was positive earth but I changed it over to negative earth about 30 years ago.

If the recommended tyre pressure is, say, 26psi and you run them at 40 you can expect: A harsh ride. Very poor stopping ability in the wet. Premature wear across the central band of the tread.

It's a very simple job to test if there is current coming to the glow plug feed and simple to test the individual glow plugs, they dont even need to be removed. In my view it's a waste of money to take a vehicle of this age and mileage to a main stealer, oops, dealer. I'd look for an independant diesel specialist or an auto electrician.