Led Lolly Yellow Lolly

Changed my mind - delete

My interpretation is you've seen some cute girl in some Honda marketing material and now you want to track her down to either buy her flowers of follow her home. Weirdo.

Honda

If the OP can't separate the screwed up immigration system from general Thai society, it's probably a good idea to go live in a hut on a mountain in Alaska. In my 20 years in Thailand, I never felt unwelcome. Thais are cordial, polite and friendly. If you behave like a douchebag you'll probably get suckerpunched.

As Crossy highlights, the 220 - 12 volt transformer is effectively giving the galvanic isolation (with the caveat the transformer must be rated for such a deployment. Also, if the wires come loose on the 220 volt side and drop onto the 12 volt side, this is clearly hugely dangerous and you should NOT be surprised if that risk is present). I agonised for a long time on the way forward when I renovated our commercial pool. In the end I went for 12 Volt DC LED luminaires and used Meanwell AC/DC constant voltage PSUs. . . I also used a 3-phase Siemens RCD (costly!!!) on the incomer to give additional safety and generally improve the standard of the the pump room (pumps are 3-phase). . . What'll really get your head in a twist is the topic of equipotential bonding and wet zones around a pool. All the rebar in the pool is supposed to be bonded to the hand rails, metal window frames, everything. It's a huge topic.

Triple N is garbage. It's not just the undersized copper, it's the PVS sheath, I've has no end of problems with tome aircon compressors where the installer used Triple N as the insulation perished in a matter of months. Personally I won't touch anything other that BCC, Yazaki if BCC is out of stock.

Technically, with some regs it's possible to use any colour as the CPC conductor BUT you must mark it with some green tape at both ends. Personally I frown on the practice.

Did they make the cables ultra safe with a wrap of PVC tape?

Lots of things going on here. I actually operate a licence place recognition system to record all the ingress and egress from our main site. This gives me some great insight, and the detail from the better ANPR cameras is very high (in that those that think their plate is unreadable may surprised to learn it often IS readable) . . . There are plates that have faded. However, there are people that spray their plates to make them look faded. Lots of people obscure a single letter of their plate with a piece of tape I saw one vehicle that fashioned a very obvious camera guard that made the plate readable from pedetrain level but obscured it from camera height. Clever, but it highlights how lackadaisical enforcement is. I noted one particular vehicle that's been driving around with a trade plate for at least 3 years. Lots of local vehicles with no plates at all.

It's completely normal. They always check my BP after I've walked form the car park in 40 degree temperatures. It's absurd. I also have severe anxiety in hospital environments.

The first thing to go on the outdoor compressor is the start capacitor. Easy to swap out and test. 99% of the time this is the fix. There are almost no parts on the compressor to fail. The retards that came to look at it for you are, well, retards.

What did your quack do to diagnose high blood pressure? My BP is ALWAYS in the 150/95 range at hospital. At home it's <= 125/80.

I just walked to work and took this picture to clarify what I mean....

Well, if you want say you're a douchebag to other road users, the cheap way is after market alloys.

You need to establish if it's just the lights or whole house issue. If it's whole house, the first place I'd be looking is the LV side cutouts on the transformer. Obviously you're not going to be doing that, it'll be the PEA/MEA, but I know these are a common point of failure as they often go bad on our own transformers (we have 4 and I have my own set of hot sticks to replace the fuses). Basically they're big blade fuses, but the blades are often ill-fitting, and the jaws need squeezing closer together so the blades of the fuses fit more snugly. Without a snug fit the connection oxidises and begins arcing. The arcing creates more oxidisation and from there it goes rapidly downhill. This lowers your voltage and it starts jumping all over the place. This is a very common cause of flakey power but it is little known by the average consumer. The modus operandi of the PEA is to just bash them from the sides to move them closer together and make the fit more snug.

Nothing says 'douchebag' quite like a personalised number plate.