HighPriority

I hadn’t noticed the chinese with big gold necklaces, beware the ladyboys ! ????

Vaccination, such a burden… ????

How big do these things grow Owl ?

Why don’t hackers and malicious types use vpn’s ?

Thank you Owl and other contributors for the entertainment. ps Owl I’m getting your rain, only 28mm so far today but it’s just started up again. The past 3 days have yielded 98, 102 and 104mm !

23.1613 on wise right now… ???? W⚓️

I do hope you're licensed to provide such profound financial advice, you might be wiser to solicit via PM... ????

Thanks for the heads up adum, I’ll kill myself now to avoid the rush… ????

Have you spoken to Ting about your nut problem Owl…? ????

An Indian and his gold chain are easily parted… ????

You two bird brains… ????

“Textured” might be the word you’re looking for ? “Sandpaper” finishes are dreadful to clean.

All too common. But bear in mind that it goes a bit deeper than “shiny is slippery” polished porcelain for eg is actually a more open pore structure then the standard matt finish and as such is surprisingly slip resistant. Lapparto finish or semi polished is also good.

Hasippi Rd… my wife has just explained to me it is Haa Sippi Rd, 50 year Rd she says. My wife and I have been to a seafood restaurant up on that Rd a couple of times, good food and a great view over Pa Tong. One night we took a couple of my farang mates up there along with a couple of her friends and a driver they knew, Toon. The lady that ran the place was a great hostess and at the end of the evening we retired down to Bangla Rd, the girls took us to a bar on a side Soi called “<deleted> Bar” same hostess… ???? The first time my wife took me to the restaurant on Haa Sippi Rd she made me dismount her scooby and walk down the bottom part as it was too steep (she’s very cautious on the bike) I ran that road a couple of times and going down the other side was crazy treacherous, just running !! Im looking forward to getting back over. Edit the bar name was an abbreviation of “blow employment”

One more time, just for those with an inflated opinion of themselves and their opinion… Youve used “MrFixit” product, maybe twice… great for you ???????? And “Flintcoat” !! WOW, you are awesome. Why don’t you tell me how many 20kg drums of “Ardex WPM155” you’ve used ? I have used HUNDREDS, and counting its predecessors it would be one thousand plus 20kg units over my career. I an an active professional ceramic tiler of 40 years, my then state based waterproofing licence was number 016. The product I recommended as my second choice solution to the OP’s problem “Ardex WPM300” is a product I’ve only used once, as in my line of work it’s a specialty product. I’ve read many of your posts and on many subjects you are very knowledgeable but I dislike your self presumed superiority to everyone else. Have a nice day ????????

Personally, I’d still prefer the guttering method, but appreciate that it may be hard to work with your neighbour. Good luck ????????

You’re an extremely infuriating man Jerome. The OP stated that the mortar joints of the blockwork are poor. Thats number 1 ingress point for water. It sounds like the wall is 2-4m wide and the space from the neighboring wall is 200mm, so how about you let us all know how you propose to fill all those mortar joints prior to applying the paint or other membrane ? If the joints are not sealed water will penetrate the blocks and any coating you are thinking of will peel and blister because of the moisture coming in, be it a paint/coating on the inside or outside… which is why I recommended the product I did, because it’s easy to apply from the accessible interior of the room and it will not be affected by any moisture, damp or water. In fact it can be applied to damp surfaces. Now if you need any further education on the product and why it’s fit for purpose I’ll send you my payID… have a good night ????????

Everyone understands that the yanks raising interest rates will attract currency and put downward pressure on currencies that don’t raise their rates to retain parity…

I was trying to keep it simple, but you are correct, I made it too simple. Essentially standard waterproofing membranes are designed to be on the same side of a structure as the water… the water sort of pushes the membrane onto the surface. Negative hydrostatic pressure (rising damp) membranes bond so tightly to the substrate that the water and salts cannot push it off (bubbling, lifting or peeling) The situation the OP is describing is a rising damp type problem, or lateral damp if you will… If there was access then a surface patch and/or render coat followed by paint would solve his problem.

So now you say the RBA should raise interest rates ? Previously you’ve belittled them for doing just that.

Most typical waterproofing membranes act a bit like a pool liner, you apply (usually paint) them onto the inside of a vessel (tank, shower wall/floor, pond etc) and the water rests against it and is contained. If however the waterproof membrane is on the outside of the structure the water seeps through and literally pushes the membrane off the surface as they are just a thick, rubbery paint. The negative hydrostatic membranes are usually a modified epoxy that makes a better bond to/into the substrate enabling it to withstand the water trying to push it off. As to being able to fill voids in the wall by making multiple passes it really depends on the size of the voids. In a shower situation you would flush the imperfections with silicone (or cement mortar) and apply membrane over that, small imperfections you could “load up” your brush and fill, but they often open up again on the first/second coats. To fill poorly mortared block joints with membrane only in a situation where you were forced to only use a paint roller to apply would be a pretty tough ask. IMHO I’d go with the WPM 300 on the inside of the wall as my preferred coating, but a guttering would beat everything.

The problem with rolling paint or waterproofing over the outside is that presumably (and in the OP’s opinion the mortar to the blockwork is poor) paint and waterproofing will not fill those voids and water will still penetrate the wall. By applying a negative hydrostatic pressure membrane to the inside of the wall you stop the moisture getting inside, which is the end goal for the op.

Can you get a galvanized steel guttering formed up to fit between the two walls and channel the water away ? Or you could purchase a two part acrylic epoxy waterproofing membrane and apply it to the inside wall surface and 300/500 mm of the floor. Such a product is designed as a barrier to rising damp, from memory it can be painted within a day or two but not later. I’m a ceramic tiler and have used a product called Ardex WPM 300 for this purpose, give it a Google.

I thought the English were as hard to insult as us Aussies ?

Come to Oz Owl, bring your floaties you’ll need em, and you can have all the stinking carp you want !!