unheard

Well designed houses are not the norm over here.

But again that particular technique of spreading and smoothing cement powder, which is very popular and common in Thailand, has nothing to do with real polished concrete floors and shouldn't be referred to as a real thing. There are also other techniques and materials which include resins and coatings to achieve the appearance of polished concrete. Most of them are just cheap imitations but can be quite durable as a floor finish. Real concrete polished floors are superior on every level, but very expensive in comparison and over here can normally be seen only in commercial buildings.

Yeah, in the beach areas. But inland? Even in the areas where the night temps are almost always cool and comfortable. The amount of heat a virtual greenhouse will absorb during the sunny day would be tremendous.

The OP hasn't mentioned what kind of the roof exhaust he's talking about if any. If there are no openings in the upper area of the roof or if they're relatively small then there's no any need for any additional soffit holes.

And unknown levels of formaldehyde out-gassing.

Also available in a variety of non-slip grades - recommended for wet floors.

@CLW "Terrazzo or polished concrete. Haven't found out a pricing yet. " Polished concrete is a great option but it's almost impossible to get one in Thailand, at least at reasonable prices. The other possible option that looks like polished concrete is a paint on coating. I think it's fairly cheap to apply and looks relatively good if you like that kind of a look, but it has nothing to do with polished concrete and doesn't offer any of its qualities.

Sounds like the only way to get to water in your particular place is by utilizing percussion air hammers driven by a powerful air compressor. Those things are not cheap. I think you need to expand your search to the nearby bigger cities. Also get prepared to pay north of 200K to the company that is properly equipped for your local geology.

That would require communication between the architect and the solar company - the solar install would need to be finalized and then translated into the houses' roof plan well before construction starts. Not as simple as it sounds.

Room insulation and window orientation are super important. Generic calculators are not designed to factor in those important variables.

double post

↑ This You're the first one in this thread to mention efficiency as reported in EER or SEER @stament Shop for higher SEER units, preferably rated at more than SEER 22 and displaying 5★★★ EGAT label. They're generally more expensive to buy but will pay for themselves in electricity savings over the long run. Unless you're on solar then it doesn't matter. Also the other high quality brand that I haven't seen mentioned here is Fujitsu. They have some very efficient models, which I think are called Fujitsu imax.

Plywood is much more stable compared to solid wood and would be a much better choice of material over particle board for humid environments.

Not because of filtration deficiencies. He got algae due to improper water balance. In most cases his algae problem can be quickly fixed by shocking and scrubbing, then filtering all dead algae out and then repeating until it's all completely gone. But it will be back again unless he fixes his water imbalance, especially free chlorine levels. That would require periodic testing of his water to make sure it's balanced, with appropriate for his pool, levels of free chlorine.

Not entirely correct: Does Adding Chlorine Raise or Lower pH? Depending on the type of chlorine you’re using, it will either raise or lower the pH in your pool. Chlorine tablets are typically trichlor with a low pH level of around 3. Being acidic, adding chlorine tablets to your water will lower the pH of your water, though this effect may be insignificant if your pH level tends to increase over time – which is common in swimming pools. Powder or granular chlorine can be more varied. You can find it as trichlor, dichlor, or calcium hypochlorite. While dichlor is slightly acidic, it’s reasonably close to neutral with a pH level of 6.5, which means it’s going to have a much lesser effect on your pH compared to trichlor. Calcium hypochlorite, however, is highly alkaline with a pH of around 12, so this is going to raise the pH level of the water (as well as increase the calcium hardness level, for that matter). Finally, liquid chlorine is sodium hypochlorite with a pH level of around 13, so it’s also going to increase the pH of your water. However, liquid chlorine only temporarily raises pH, effectively making it pH neutral in the long term. https://poolonomics.com/how-does-ph-affect-chlorine/#does-adding-chlorine-raise-or-lower-ph

While that page does provide some useful advice, it doesn't sound too competent in the end by stating: "Continue to shock your pool once a week".

Thank you!

Where can it be purchased? Couldn't find much on Lazada...

Or even cheaper fiberglass rolls will work wonders in preventing attic heat transmission to ceilings.

Hey it's all good! No apologies necessary.

That wasn't me. Looks like you've confused me with another poster.

Well, that's why I have an insulated metal roof. As I have previously mentioned, the steel roof sheet with a layer of 25mm of PU insulation feels barely warm to touch after many hours spent sitting under direct sunlight. Don't have any experience with insulated concrete tiles. But it shouldn't be drastically different. Still... The difference between concrete and metal is their thermal masses. Metal is quick to heat but also quick to cool. Concrete is the direct opposite - very slow to heat up but is also slow to cool down. In addition to thermal mass, thermal inertia also plays a big role. Concrete is obviously much higher on both compared to metal, thus making it a very hot material in the roof application.

That's how PU insulated steel roofs are constructed, with this thermal break present by design. The metal roof sheets are not in contact with metal roof beams - they're separated by the insulation layer.

No, it will not adhere to foil. The foil would need to be removed.

OK I still think I mis-understood what you meant under your prior statement: "spray on foam or radiant barrier and radiant barrier wins every time". As in the cost and easiness of application? Or as in the general contribution to the "hot attic" condition? Spray on foam greatly reduces heat by convection and overall attic temperatures even without ventilation. There's also a layer of a silvery foil (assuming for the purpose of a radiant barrier) applied on top of the sprayed on foam during production of the steel metal insulated sheets. The radiant barrier technique does nothing for convective heating which leads to hot attic temps.