NanLaew

Excellent, fast response, thanks. No flies on you I see. No mules either.

You realize that you just publicly admitted to a crime, right? What crime?

It's "mule" account. "A money mule is someone who lets someone else use their bank account to transfer money, often keeping a little bit for themselves. If you get caught, you could get a criminal record. " https://www.nationalcrimeagency.gov.uk/moneymuling

The relentless march towards the cashless society got a big boost during Covid. There's no turning that back now. Go crypto.

@stoner? Are you there" Hello...?

YouTubers are desperate for income too.

For clarity, THAI never lost their FAA certification. The FAA downgraded CAAT to Category II status. Since THAI had no plans to serve the US, it was a moot point. THAI unaffected by FAA Category II status of Civil Aviation Administration of Thailand (CAAT) Bangkok, 1 December 2015 – Mr. Charamporn Jotikasthira, THAI President, said that due to the result of the Federal Aviation Administration’s (FAA) report from the audit of CAAT in October 2015, there remain oversight matters requiring the FAA to issue a Category II status to the CAAT, from Category I. A Category II status of the CAAT signifies that all air carriers certified under the CAAT are not able to increase flights or operate to new destinations in the United States of America. However, for THAI there is no commercial or customer impact as THAI had already ceased operations to its only US destination of Los Angeles as of 25 October 2015. Although THAI is no longer operating its aircraft to the USA, THAI continues to serve customers through codeshare and interline partners to USA destinations. THAI confirms its commitment to aviation safety standards, and assures all that THAI operates with the highest international aviation safety standards. https://www.thaiairways.com/en_GB/news/news_announcement/news_detail/FAA_News.page?

No, it's probably because you're growing more petals.

There was a comment by a member in a recent thread on how Thailand ignores sexual violence, especially against females and minors, because it's 'in their culture'.

Many British and American citizens are denied opening or even maintaining a bank in their homelands because of their chosen 'immigration status'.

And most of them are probably proxy accounts for those who can't.

Obviously not for dodgy Slavic and eastern Mediterranean types with bulging wallets who are dodging the conflict zones and laundering their 'investments'.

Yes brian, right brian...

Normal engine start-up on push back wasn't achieved, hence the tech problem, it was eventually pulled back to the gate after the Captain tried to re-start but failed. If the APU could not be started the aircraft would be grounded anyway. And grounding is precisely what happened. Strewth!... we're good, eh?

Noted. Per my earlier post, I have sorted the local issue but if I ever went to Screwfix or B&Q in the UK for those, I would hope that the salesperson would advise me of such and sell me the bespoke dimmer as well. As it stands, as of yesterday, there's a pushy sales chap at my local Mega Home who now knows the difference between regular and dimmable, and it's not just about the latter being paeng.

Mainly because my house is a menagerie with too many indolent sitting around all day doing 'stuff' on their smartphones. I don't need a phone app to change my 'mood.'

Sorted. Checked the newly opened Mega Home and in among the GU3.5's were a couple of Lamptan MR16 DIM 7W LED. At 289 baht, more double the price of the non-dimmable and available in both daylight and warm white. Bought one of each to test back home with the new Panasonic LED dimmers, and they worked great. The LEDs also fit inside the existing BEC adjustable holders and use the same connector, so just a case of buying three more tomorrow, removing the old step-down transformers and replacing the dimmer switches. There was also a cheaper Lumax ECO JCDR 6W at 129 baht, but it only comes in warm white.

Gotta luv them loose cannons, eh?

You are assuming that a 'normal' engine start-up on push back was ever done. You are also assuming that the APU "could" be started. But it's also highly likely that the whole chain of events has been misinterpreted and misreported by local media. I reckon that's a safe assumption.

Plenty of recent stories being reported in the Thai media about local and foreign women filing complaints with the police against abusive partners, family members and 'Tinder' losers.

That was my experience last year, but due to the constant changes behind the walls, it could be a bit different now. After you get the benefit of a quicker security screening, you tell the immigration officer you need a re-entry permit and depending on how busy they are, they'll either show you the way to Zone 2 or escort you there. If the IO retains your boarding pass, then you will need to retrace your steps from Zone 2. If you have your boarding pass, then you can rejoin the regular immigration lines next to the re-entry permit office. Or, as the other thread you linked to has suggested, forego the fast-track option and just get in line with the plebs for Zone 2 and burn less calories. You have a class of ticket that allows you lounge access once you are air-side, and I think that's more beneficial than saving a few minutes at security on the land-side. PS: I also recommend NOT faffing about with downloaded, prefilled, forms and pictures beforehand since, for a small premium, they'll do that for you when you apply at Zone 2. Just give them your address and phone number handy on a bit of notepaper so they can fill it in. Bon voyage mon vieux

Just have his stamp transferred to his other passport, just the same as if it were a new one. But... This is his only option. The earlier suggestion in OP will not work. ... Maybe he should go ask at his local immigration office.

I am upgrading the lighting in the master bedroom that has a total of 8 of those old-fashioned dimmable GU5.3 12 V incandescent downlights, each with a heat-generating 60W transformer inline. I am looking to replace them with dimmable LED downlights, about 3.5 W to 5 W so they fit the same sized holes in the ceiling (9 cm o.d and a 7 cm hole). I got ahead of myself and purchased some new LED dimmer switches (to replace the incandescent dimmer switches) and LED downlights but didn't know that the LED lights need to be dimmable and the ones I bought aren't! No worries, they can be used in the new annex. So, looking around for dimmable LED's and the local market seems a bit sparse. Lazada seems to have some, with most coming from China. If anyone has done this already, what did you buy? Something like this (from the UK) would be nice. I can always replace the socket bases to GU10 on the current BEC fittings.

No, it's for members of the extended family. Mrs NL has suggested that once they fly the coop, then they could be rented out, but I don't see that happening in my lifetime. Any ideas on RCB and/or RCBO for the 'wet' appliances? I am also going to run the wiring in half-inch white pvc conduit with surface-mounted switch and socket boxes, same as I did with my shed. Semi-industrial looking, but I have a feeling that the 'electrician' I will be watching over has loads of VAF building wire (no VAF-G!) and hundreds of those wall staples of yore.

Bump. The annex now has four rooms, each with its own ensuite and is going to have its own power line/meter and the Thai style house will be moved onto that line, just finalising things with the light company. The main house will be standalone. So, back to internal wiring for the annex. With 4 air-conditioned rooms, each with en-suite bathrooms. Initially I was thinking a 14-breaker CU with four 16 A breakers for air conditioners, four 16 A RCBO/breakers for hot-water shower units, four 10 A breaker for room lighting and four 16 A breaker for the room wall sockets. That makes each room 'standalone' for power. I used Schneider Square D CU and breakers for my shed, so will go the same way with the annex. I was also looking at the Schneider Square D CU that has 8+4 and believe with an RCD protecting the 4 slots on the right, this may be an option for having better protection for the shower units? But with only 8 breakers on the left side, that reduces my capacity for individual (4-each) aircon, lights and wall outlet power. What's the safest, no-overkill (unfortunate pun) method for these hot water shower units? On a bus bar of four hanging off the RCD in the 8+4 CU? Or in the original 16-slot CU with individual RCBO's?