Jump to content

Johnlkuk

Member
  • Posts

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

874 profile views

Johnlkuk's Achievements

Explorer Member

Explorer Member (4/14)

  • One Year In
  • 5 Reactions Given
  • Dedicated Rare
  • 10 Posts
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

17

Reputation

  1. Hi again all, So, with some great help from this forum earlier this year when I was searching for an earth here on the 12th floor: https://aseannow.com/topic/1320063-earth-where-no-earth-exists-on-12th-floor/ I have returned to my condo armed with what I need to make my electrics safe: a new (larger, so expandable) Consumer Unit, main switch and RCBOs. 2 days ago my power was isolated and I switched out the old, unprotected CU which looked like this...... To now what looks like this...... All of the previous wiring around the condo has remained, so all I did prior to this switchover was noted which cable goes where ie. A/C, shower, sockets lights etc. All of these circuits will be rewired in the future, to incorporate the new earth, but for now I have just separated as many double-ups and mixed sized cables as possible, and then fitted into (hopefully appropriate) sized RCBO. Anyway, nothing has tripped and it's been on the past 2 days, so all is great. I do however have a question or 2, whether they are regarded as "code", or just "good practise", I hope to do the best job I can. Q1. So, I have my earth cable coming into the CU now, but should I connect it onto the busbar on the top right, then link it over to the neutral busbar, or should this stay separate and only be used once I've got my twin and earth cables run? Q2. Was I correct to put the larger sized RCBOs nearer to the main switch, then reduced size the further away, or should it be the other way around (smaller to larger)?
  2. Several months later and I am back over and working on the electrics. I've made good progress, but is it OK to continue this thread even though the earthing query has been answered, or should I start a whole new thread? I've now made the CU changeover and it would be good to keep all the info together.
  3. Yes, you're probably right about some scammer sellers, but the OP asked about experiences with selling, so I answered. For some unknown reason other posters then want to comment on how many scammers there are. Yes, little chance of being scammed if you are selling and only accept cash/bank transfer as payment.
  4. I'm neither and happily posted my experience above proving this.
  5. Regarding selling on FB.... Last month I advertised some worn furniture and a desktop PC that was left behind in my recently acquired condo. I had to format the PC beforehand but it sold the day after going live with just one enquiry. Messenger on my phone went berserk with messages for the furniture, which was split into separate adverts: sofa/armchairs, dining table/chairs, sideboard, coffee table etc. The same day as the advert went live I sold the sideboard to the first person to show up, then an hour later, all the rest to a dealer who collected the next morning. He probably got a good deal but I needed a rest from having to respond to enquiries. For the ads - Good photos and clear wording etc, all in English. A farang bought the PC, and all the furniture went to Thais. All paid cash and took the items away. Similar luck might depend on what you're selling, and how you price it, but furniture seems to be red hot judging by my experience.
  6. Yes, my post-posting thoughts exactly. Just disconnect one side of switch (safely) and see if glow goes 👍
  7. I'm not qualified in electrickery, but would be interested in what the pros thought of my approach. For the glowing issue I would start by changing the light switch. My reasoning is that if it is not completely isolating when it is in the "off" position, then some "seepage" maybe occurring, hence the glow. I know in this instance it is the N being switched, but a "leaky" switch would have the same effect whether L or N. To confirm this, you buy a completely new switch and change it. Otherwise, you test the existing switch by swapping it with one of the other switches that operate the same kind of new light (that doesn't glow). If the switch is leaky it will show in it's new position, and the glowing light (with newly positioned old working switch) will glow no more. Obviously with care, and with the appropriate breakers switched off. Find them by turning the lights on first, then switching breakers until the lights go out. If the light fittings can be duff from new, who says the switches can't be nearly duff from years of use?
  8. Next I'll do the same up in the bathroom ceiling and then connect the two together and send back to the CU ready for a 3 core cable changeover sometime in the future (after the RCBO/CU upgrade). Many thanks again for the help and advice, and particularly much respect to you Crossy for sharing your knowledge. 👍
  9. Looks as bright as using the neutral, so I'm well happy. Cable and clamps courtesy of Lazada.
  10. Then connected to one rebar: And then with 2 rebars connected:
  11. An update after some more success using the rebar. 1st picture using live and neutral from a socket:
  12. Correct, no earth found after a good search. There's just live and neutral coming into the condo (red and blue)

×
×
  • Create New...