sometimewoodworker

Your suspicion is wrong. The check to see if the batteries are dead is simple. Touch both ends of the tool and you will get a green light. Touch just the line conductor (but not the end of the tool) and you will also get a green light. While, or before, touching the line connection you will get both green and red Touch only the neutral conductor (but not the end of the tool) and you will nothing Touch the end of the tool while, or before, touching the neutral connection you will only a green light So you require a light to show to know that the battery’s have sufficient charge. No light means dead, or no, batteries it is possible, I don’t know because my batteries are charged, that with dead batteries you will get a green from the line connection without touching the back of the tool. With dead batteries you will get nothing from the neutral connection.

RCBO’s come in types A AC F and B AC are in general in other countries are not permitted as the do not deal with D/C So for general use type A or type F are best FWIW I have 2 x AC’s and 1 x A MCB’s come in B, C and D tripping curves this is domestic and ignores those above D Tripping characteristics: Type B devices are designed to trip at fault currents of 3-5 times rated current (In). For example a 10A device will trip at 30-50A. Type C devices are designed to trip at 5-10 times In (50-100A for a 10A device). Type D devices are designed to trip at 10-20 times In (100-200A for a 10A device). So looking at my post above which was not very clear I was talking about MCB’s not RCBO’s

Some components are required to be wired with correct in/out orientation, other components are ambivalent so can go either way. So you need to know which type you have to answer your question. If you mean “put 2 floating bus bar legs into the same terminal, the answer is you probably can but should not do it because if you do one set of breakers will be stressed as the bus bar will be in the wrong orientation. The only way that would work is if you have a kinked bus bar. Your abbreviations are obtuse. Please explain. The are roughly, but you can just enlarge the opening with a file if you want.

The class of RCD is actually rather more complicated than your recommendation. Certainly the class C units that are ubiquitous are usually the wrong ones. I have some circuits where class C is correct however the majority should be class B as should the majority of domestic installs. There are few electricians working on domestic installs and even fewer will do, or be asked to do, the circuit tests that will tell you which breaker type is suitable and which will only trip when the fault is dramatically larger than they should be triggered. The classes of circuits where a C type breaker is correct are ones with large inrush currents like my woodworking power tools with ¾ HP ~ 2 HP and up motors, also pumps will typically need a class C The correct class of breaker requires proper circuit testing and few have the equipment required, training in its use, or are paid for the time that is needed to use it. An earth resistance metre is expensive and because an earth resistance test is never required for a domestic instal check nobody has them. TLDR type C are used because few installing understand why they should not and they don’t nuisance trip on circuits with a pump. I am sure that my installation would not pass a proper safety check however it is good enough and though I do know an actual electrician I don’t think it is worth getting him to do an actual check. In the U.K. a safety check is a legal requirement for many so you must pay the ฿25,000 an up inspection fee.

That depends in the wiring and the switch. I have some light switches that require a neutral, so those switches have neutral in the wall enclosure.

You are wrong that LEDs are not used in the test screwdrivers Though they do require batteries. The green is from touching both ends, the green has and red shows an active line socket. So the ways they detect are slightly different.

Pulling the plug’s is likely to reduce the damage caused by a close strike, tripping all the power MCB’s will do a little as long as the strike is far enough away. However with a close strike you are not protected as you will get an induced spike that has the chance of killing everything. So the real question is how often do you get strike close to you? If the answer is occasionally or seldom then you are just cutting light with virtuous benefits. If the answer is frequently then you should spend the money to do a reasonable job of protecting your house. At the moment it seems as if you have the theatre of protection with little need for it along with the fun of emulating bats.

You haven’t really asked a question that can get an answer. For our house there is nothing need to change. All the answers are in the thread. Triple glazing will require special windows as the overall width of the glazing unit is more than anything off the shelf can handle

That is why you, as a neophyte, should use more than 1 test device, if you add a 30 baht neon screwdriver (I know it’s probably an LED now) then it will light up, even though your meter shows nothing. The other thing you should do is wear safety 😉 filopflops and if possible keep one hand in your pocket. Both of these precautions will be enough to probably reduce a shock to a minor disturbance and as long as it doesn’t cause you to fall off the ladder you will continue to live a long time. I can’t remember how many shocks I have got, probably single or low double digits, & maybe even none in Thailand, but every one was an uncomfortable reminder that I probably hadn’t followed my own advice not to touch the bitty bits.

No. There are 2 switch units that push into a backplane, so you can swap out 1 or both.

I assume that by baht you really mean BTU the, Thai standard is 700~900 However I have fitted and used a 500 BTU per m3 with a standard AC so that works, with an inverter you can certainly go a bit bigger and the cost difference is very little.

I suspect that many have learned from years ago that you should exactly or under specify you AC. With the almost complete takeover of inverter units the old Thai “use a bigger unit because it will cool quicker and ignore the fact of bad humidity control” poor advice is now not at all bad. A 25%~50% over specified unit is almost certainly no problem and will control both temperature and humidity.

It is rather important that you give your definition of quality jointers, also of course that you describe what you mean by a jointer. I rather suspect that you maybe American, you may not know that the tools you are probably referring to are known as planers in most other countries. The kind of information is the in-feed/out-feed bed length and material, the style of cutter (straight knives, curved knives, spiral knives) but the most important is the width you want in the bed. Do you want, for example, a plainer thicknesseser. Lastly do you want it floor standing or desktop. 6” will be affordable once you start going wider it’s likely that the price will double for 8” and up.

I believe that is a correct statement. Here we need to understand the definition and exactly how the remittance system is interpreted. It is my belief that funds in transit through financial institutions such as banks (most travel this way) into Thailand are not considered remittances until they arrive at a persons account. This would make sense as otherwise it is virtually impossible to define. There are some who have a rabid belief that this is not the case. If I am correct then since the funds are being transferred from overseas (via Wise but SWIFT would also work) into the account of the recipient and are specifically a gift, the recipient has no tax liability (see gift tax rules) the sender has no liability as they have not received a remittance. So at exactly what point does an overseas remittance become a remittance? I contend that it must be at the point of receiving into a person’s (or companies) account in Thailand. We have some posters who believe that the funds in transit through the financial system have tax liabilities during the transit not only at the point of receipt. There are proposed law changes that will stop the Thai tax system from being a remittance one but until, or if, this ever happens it is my belief that I have a correct understanding and an overseas transfer as a gift is a legitimate legal tax minimisation strategy and it is non assessable for anyone in Thailand, subject, of course, to gift tax limits.

While an entertaining discussion there are a few problems. The receiver of a remittance is potentially taxable, the remitter being outside Thailand has no liability. Received advice is that gifts should be supported by a contract. If you are able to get JPM to sign a gift contract (you can’t, they won’t) then you can consider it a gift. If however it just magically appears in your account then it is not yours and you must make every effort to return it to sender, if you don’t then you are guilty of Conversion. JPM probably considers the funds are held by them as a trustee but yours not theirs so are sending you your funds.

Spelling please, though it is possibly an accurate description 🙂😉 The money goes into your account, thus you receive it, thus you are liable

Any amounts in any kind of account pre 1/1/2024 are non assessable (see p 162). There is nothing magical about bank accounts, they are just easy to define. The difficulty comes with proving the exact values as of 1/1/2024 this is why bed-and-breakfasting is advisable, if you didn’t/couldn’t B&B then you have commingled funds and a headache!

The transfer goes OP -> Wise U.K. then U.K. Wise -> Wise Thailand then Wise Thailand -> gift recipient’s account. Thus not touching the OP’s account, thus no tax liability for the OP. The OP has not remitted funds into their account/s

It is, in fact true, though if you did not crystallise the accounts as of 1/1/2024 you now have commingled funds this makes life complicated.

The guidance is precisely as the OP “now ignored” as stated. No overseas inter-account transfer required, other than to the overseas Wise receiving account,. Irrespective of Tax residency of the person making the gift Others disagree. YMMV TIT

Trying to leach? PLONK!

I have! I paid for what I have got, so can you. As has been said if you pay nothing for advice it is likely to be as worth as much as the amount paid.

One of the directors of one of the big four accounting firms explicitly disagrees with you, though you need to do it correctly.

Did you not read the reply?

While you were notified of a £5 fee you were not informed if the lower exchange rate you received, nor the other fees taken before the money hit your account. Your amount was about 1.5% less than you would have got using Wise