tomster

Bobsuruncle, Sorry for the late reply, I will post pictures tomorrow when I am back at the house. Cheers.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-hydroponic-nutrients-in-5-minutes.894332/ The link to the calculator goes to a 404. R-W is Run To Waste - I have no idea what the rest of it means...????

Believe it or not a nutrient with this NPK would not be allowed in Thailand - 4:2:3 For whatever reason you can only register plant fertilisers that have an NPK that adds up to 20 or more. Hence the overdoing it on the NPK. The even sillier thing is that if it doesn't add up to 20 it's not like it can't be classed as a fertiliser, it just can't be registered. Maybe there is a way around it if the nutrient is made here as Nutra Hydro products don't add up to 20 so maybe there is something else I am not aware of - my experience was with importing but I think it would apply to locally made as well. Madness.

Hi Rob, I just tried and failed to import a well known Aussie made range of nutrients, the import rules are totally and utterly ridiculous. So far I know of only two locally made options although I am about to start testing a third in the coming days which I expect to the best priced and most effective going forward. Here are the two that I know of: https://www.accenthydroponicsthailand.com/457887/flowering I'm not sure which is their grow formula, probably this one: https://www.accenthydroponicsthailand.com/457886/culture-s I know people using the flowering version and it seems to work well enough although it's low P. Also there is a local company that appeared after June 9th - Nutra Hydro: https://www.lazada.co.th/nutra-hydro/ I'm sure there are others that I don't know of and others will add them - it's a good question. Cheers.

Thanks Mr Meesseks. I have seen the Nutra brand and tried to get talking to them but they insisted on using Shopee chat - so gave up on that. Quite why anybody would copy a 3 part nutrient when most people here use organic hot soil or coco run to waste is beyond me, but I wish them well. Mycrorhizals are everywhere but the Great White Shark product has been around since the early days of my UK company, so it must be around 15-17 years old now. During that time I never saw another Mycorrhiza product perform as well (although Mykos is also very good and available here), I'm sure there are others but that one really gets the plant roots firing out. I also tried this one and it didn't seem to do much and they do market the same product for cannabis in another link on their account: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2809076077-s10238236549.html On that link you sent there is no breakdown of the types of Mycorrhiza that it delivers - compare that to the Great White Shark info: Endomycorrhiza Glomus aggregatum – 83 props per gram Glomus intraradices – 83 props per gram Glomus mosseae – 83 props per gram Glomus etunicatum – 83 props per gram Glomus clarum – 11 props per gram Glomus monosporum – 11 props per gram Paraglomus brazilianum – 11 props per gram Glomus deserticola – 11 props per gram Gigaspora margarita – 11 props per gram Ectomycorrhiza Pisolithus tinctorious – 187,875 propagules per gram Rhizopogon luteolus – 5,219 props per gram Rhizopogon fulvigleba – 5,219 props per gram Rhizopogon villosullus – 5,219 props per gram Rhizopogon amylopogon – 5,219 props per gram Scleroderma citrinum – 5,219 props per gram Scleroderma cepa – 5,219 props per gram Bacteria Azotobacter chroococcum – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Bacillus subtilis – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Bacillus licheniformis – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Bacillus azotoformans – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Bacillus megaterium – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Bacillus coagulans – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Bacillus pumilus – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Bacillus amyloliquefaciens – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Paenibacillus durum – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Paenibacillus polymyxa – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Saccharomyces cerevisiae – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Pseudomonas aureofaciens – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Pseudomonas fluorescens – 525,000 CFU’s per gram Trichoderma koningii-187,875 CFU’s per gram Trichoderma harzianum-125,250 CFU’s per gram Not saying the local one doesn't work but I think the local producers have a way to go yet before they get to where products like Great White & Mykos have been for a very long time. Cheers.

Good luck, any other questions just ask. ????

1. Lowering the lights down onto stressed plants of any age is the opposite of what needs to be done - they are already struggling to transpire and this just makes it worse. It looks like you have this light: https://shopee.co.th/【พร้อมส่ง】ไฟปลูกต้นไม้-โคมไฟปลูกต้นไม้-HEMPEAS-GD2000-300W-Full-Spectrum-with-IR-UV-Grow-Light-ไฟปลูกต้นไม้-i.99442487.3056845466 That is a 300W light at full power - it's not really suitable for seedlings. It should be on about 25% power and no closer than 70cm for seedlings. Something like this would be much better (the 6500K version): https://masakigarden.com/shop/led-tube-2f-15w-set/ When you have a healthy looking young plant with several nodes and active daily vertical growth then you can pop them under the bigger LED, which does looks like it has a decent spectrum for veg growth by what they put on the listing (although not sure I believe that PAR Chart to be honest - they don't list the diodes by quantity so impossible to check) : 2. That soil is not potting soil for young plants, as above they are getting locked out. Get some of this: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/plants-center-1-potgrond-h-i2003162624-s6441208580.html Also get some Mycorrhizal powder - this really, really helps get the roots going: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/great-white-mycorrhizae-5-20-i2986387924-s10966581283.html? For nutrients the choices here are rubbish, the best I have found so far is General Hydroponics. The have their 3 part which works well but is fiddly to use, they also have this which I have used on young plants at 0.25 grams per litre (you will need some cheap jewellery scales to use this product): https://shopee.co.th/Maxi-Gro--10-5-14----GHE--ปุ๋ยหลักทำใบ--i.87157335.7870762290 https://shopee.co.th/เครื่องชั่งดิจิตอล-ตาชั่งดิจิตอล-ชั่งทอง-ชั่งเพชร--0-1--500-กรัม--i.24578886.6320228236 3. As above use PH corrected water at all times, around 6.2-6.5 is fine. Remember Coco and Peat are inert substrates so PH is massively important. Here are two options for PH meters that can be manually calibrated, avoid the auto calibration unless you spend 1,000 Baht upwards: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/ph-led-ph-i1659122611-s4622618788.html https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i122609286-s127996867.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 You also need to be able to calibrate the PH Pens (do it at 4 & 7), so you will need this: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i1978886344-s6332054048.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 Hope that helps. Cheers.

Hi Mixed, When you say mainly for veg - do you mean it's for mother plants only? The Mars Hydro grow lights have a decent amount of blue in them compared to other grow lights, but if you are looking for veg only then vertical lamp metal halide lamps still provides better results (but you can't flower with them, obviously). These are a 400W Phillips Metal Halide with 80cm parabolic and there are two 85w full spectrum LEDs on the side walls adding spectrum, so around 530w in total. I will change the reflector over to 100cm when it arrives and that will allow for 9 plants under it that will look like that - I don't think there are any "Full Spectrum" LED's on the market that will give you this kind of vegative growth. If you have your heart set on LED then that light will do veg as good as any, but you may want to add more blue with some LED bars such as this one: https://masakigarden.com/shop/led-tube-2f-15w-set/ A combination of the Mars FC-E lights and added blue via the LED bars on the sides should give you a pretty decent veg light. No Aircon no problem, but you will absolutely need a good extractor fan in that case. Hope that helps - cheers.

OMG!

The male is of no use at all unless you are look to breed plants, or make rope etc. Most people destroy them I presume. Your plants seem to have something biting the leaves by the looks of things...

This plant looks like it has thrip, by the way. The cameras on phones can do weird things so it may be something else but you should look closely at it as if it is thrip they will need dealing with or your yield will be seriously impacted.

This one is male, get rid of it. The others look like females but it's not so easy to tell from the photos.

Pretty sure that is not the case if you can get the right paperwork (and it is possible), the rest of the post is absolutely spot on.

You're welcome - just remember to keep it very high above your plants and turned right down if it's in a grow tent. ???? Cheers.

That light is very overpowered for a 1.2m tent. You will need to keep it very high off the plants for most of the grow, maybe 60-80cm and turned down to about 60-70% otherwise you will fry your young plants, as they get bigger then you can lower it or increase the power but that really is a strong light for that size of tent (they are optimised for 1.5m tents and even then are over-powered).

Yeah I agree.

There are strains that are hard to grow (some strains cannot tolerate stress training for even canopy production, hate having wet roots aka irrigation intolerant, need very low temperatures and are very susceptible to mold which is very hard to control here). There are some strains that take a really long time to flower, they therefore use more energy to produce and they block the growing equipment from being used on faster growing, more profitable strains. There are strains that are very low yielding but produce high levels of secondary metabolites so are very sought after for their uniqueness. Then there are strains that are all 3 of the above - of course they will always fetch good money and will be sought after as demand will be higher than supply. @Bday Prang mentioned above the difference between Stella and Chang being minimal and he is right, but that is not the case with indoor Cannabis - there is loads more to it. But 1,000 a gram for the mainstream indoor strains is clearly ridiculous whichever way you look at it.

Ah right, cool - didn't know that.

Does the milk state it's 6.6 on the bottle?

If the budget pen calibrates properly at 2 points (in our case 4 & 7) then there can't be any difference. If you put them in the same solution they would read the same, so not sure how Bluelab has better performance at measuring anything - they just last longer. When they do break, and yeah Bluelab stuff does break, you can get the repaired or replaced for free - the lifespan and warranty are the main difference (and possibly not need to calibrate so often). Don't get me wrong I love Bluelab equipment, but most people just don't need it.

Ah, cool - not seen the budget ones with the screw adjuster before, thanks. The auto calibrate version of that pen is basically worthless, I went through 3 and they all worked for a few days then died.

They are excellent but for most people the price is simply not justified - as long as you calibrate the pen I linked to above once a week it does exactly the same job as the Bluelab equipment.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i3096982642-s11425823709.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 Expensive but best Lightmix soil I have found here so far. Mix with one 70l bag of it with about 3-4kg worm castings for best results. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i1897682199-s5961880190.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 Also a good idea to add in some friendly fungi if you haven't added it by then: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2809076077-s10238236549.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 Other things you can add are rice husks (very cheap here and a good source of silica which plants love) and Fulvic acid, although I add both Silica and Fulvic in liquid form with the feed to make sure that they get enough throughout the plants life - they make a huge difference. Totally agree with the heavily fertilized soils here (we used to call them hot soil in the UK) - they are OK if you know how to read the plants but yields are always low. Quality can be good but very hard to control the feed to a level where the plants don't get nutrient burn and lockout.

If you want to grow premium cannabis you will need to grow with 24hr aircon here in Thailand. Temps should ideally be 26 degrees C or under. BUT - temperature is not the biggest issue as aircon is everywhere, growing indoors in Thailand is all about humidity control. If you are in week 4-7 of flower and you let the humidity go above 40% you are absolutely asking for bud rot - it gets every grower here sooner or later. Some aircons seem to be able to deal with the humidity whilst the air is being extracted, others not so much. You will need to set the the growing environment up and test thoroughly first to see if your aircon can handle it, most I think cannot so dehumidifiers will be needed. If you just grow 3-4 plants in an open tent/room then you will not produce dense enough buds for this to be a problem, but if you want to grow the premium weed then you absolutely need to focus on humidity control. These are worth their weight in gold: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/inkbirdihc-200-10a-i1180092435-s2797328741.html

For accurate PH/EC calibration these are what you need: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i1978886344-s6332054048.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 https://www.lazada.co.th/products/ec-meter-14-mscm-005-mscm-120ml-i687184202.html A good PH/EC pen for the money is this one: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i122609286-s127996867.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 I really prefer the screw calibration over the auto calibrate type as you get finer control and they are way more reliable overall.