Pib

Below Tesla Supercharger Thailand article is from Jun/Sep 2023 when Tesla had 10 supercharger locations in Thailand....as mentioned above now up to 17 locations mostly at some Central malls. If the Tesla charging fee per KW is still around 10 baht/KW then it's more pricey than other chargers (i.e., PTT, PEA, EA Anywhere, etc) in Thailand. https://autolifethailand.tv/tesla-supercharger-250-kw-thailand-location/

At this time Tesla Supercharger 17 locations are mostly located at some "Central" malls typically located inside a metro area versus being along major highways. https://www.tesla.com/en_th/findus/list/superchargers/Thailand Superchargers - Thailand Bluport Hua Hin, Prachuap Khiri Khan 8 89 Phet Kasem Rd77110 Central Ayutthaya, Ayutthaya 129/1, 129/2, 129/3 Asia Road13000 Central Eastville, Bangkok 69/2 Pradit Manutham RdKhwaeng Lat Phrao10230 Central Korat, Korat 990 Thanon Mittraphap30000 Central Ladprao, Bangkok 1693 Phahonyothin RoadKhwaeng Chatuchak10900 Central Lampang, Lampang 319 319 ถนน ซุปเปอร์ไฮเวย์สาย ลำปาง - งาว, Tambon Suan Dok52100 Central Pattaya, Pattaya 33/99 moo 9 BanglamungBanglamung20150 Central Rama 2, Bangkok 160 Thanon Praram 2Khwaeng Samae Dam10150 Central Rama 3, Bangkok 79 Ratchadaphisek RdChong Nonsi10120 Central Village, Samut Prakan 98/1 Thanon Suvarnabhumi 310540 Central World, Bangkok 4 4/1-4/2 Rama I RdKhwaeng Pathum Wan10330 Garage Cafe Chumphon, Chumphon 9 Phet Kasem Rd86210 ICONSIAM, Bangkok 299 Soi Charoen Nakhon 5Khwaeng Khlong Ton Sai10600 Marché Thonglor, Bangkok 150 Soi Sukhumvit 55Khwaeng Khlong Tan Nuea10110 Robinson Lifestyle Kampaengphet, Kampaengphet 651/1 Thanon Charoensuk62000 Robinson Lifestyle Kanchanaburi, Kanchanaburi 110 9 ถ. เลี่ยงเมืองกาญจนบุรี Pak Phraek71000 Tesla Centre, Bangkok 7, 7/1 Ramkhamhaeng RdKhwaeng Hua Mak10240

Yeap....been a common occurrence for major/long holiday periods for the BOI LTR website. However, the BOI LTR Visa sister BOI "SMART" visa website stays up and running. https://smart-visa.boi.go.th/smart/

Above video is based on news articles over the last week or so....like below news articles which gives a good overview of the issue....see weblink for full artilce....a partial quote also below. https://www.ft.com/content/496f3bfa-9f0c-4145-9024-188572a280fd

Above "used" Tesla prices pretty much follow below "new" Tesla prices. If the new vehicle price drops the corresponding used vehicle price will drop. Same thing happens for ICEV or most any product.

Although it doesn't display SoH it's not hard to determine SoH. You basically discharge the EV down to a very low percentage...the closer to zero percent the better....to zero would be the best. If not discharging all the way to zero...say only to 1 or 2% left then be sure to apply a correction factor in the test for that remaining 1 to 2%. Then using the power meter on your wall charger (either built-in meter or an external one you can add for just a couple hundred baht) to measure how many KWH input to the battery corrected for charging loss (charging loss is 9% between my wall charger and my Atto battery) and knowing my Atto battery KWH size I can determine SoH. A person can use the Accumulated Charge Energy OBD2 data for more accurate measurements which I did. I did a SoH check using this method a few months ago when the Atto had around 7,000Km on it and the SoH was 100%. I started the test from only 2% charge, determined (i.e., a best estimate) on how many KWH charge that 2% represented based on distance efficiency of the 98 to 99%....then measured the amount of KWH to charge to 100% corrected for charging loss, and a little more math...when the calculating dust settled it showed I had a 100% SoH. But as mentioned the Atto only had 7,000 Km and a few months under its belt...not really long enough to experience much of any battery degradation. Tesla SoH test basically does it this way by first completely discharging the battery, measuring many KWH it takes to charge back to 100%, and then comparing that to the battery size....then it gives you a SoH readout based purely on it's OBD2 data. But before it reached the point of being able to provide an updated SoH a complete discharge and recharge had to occur. Youtubes indicate that test can take around 24 hours (or longer) on a Tesla. Best to start the test from a low charge point to minimize the amount of time to fully discharge the battery for a person who drives a Tesla.

No....or at least I haven't seen it anywhere.

A Non OA visa is different....that's the Non-immigrant visa that requires health insurance....I can understand a IO asking to see health insurance not to imply they would on each entry. The OA visa is typically one people try to cancel and get another type like a Non O visa that does not require insurance...lord knows there is about a zillion post on AN regarding people trying to dump their OA and get a O visa.. I expect it's not uncommon for some IOs to ask for insurance paperwork when seeing a person has an OA visa. Yea, an LTR visa require health coverage but it can be a health policy or being self-insured. If an IO asks for health insurance for a Non-O visa or LTR Visa I expect it just an inexperienced IO especially if challenging an LTR visa. I doubt some IOs see LTR visas very often....I expect it's like an a rare bird sighting for some IOs and it may confuse some, but LTR visa are slowly being sighted more and more.

The amount of KW being used at any point in time on the EV display represents all power traction battery usage occurring at that time....like if driving along with the A/C turned on and say just for discussion it showed around 13KW being used. In my BYD Atto assuming the car has already cooled down inside and it's a HOT day like today being around 37-39C around 1.5KW of that 13KW power usage would be from the A/C usage. That works out to around 11 to 12% of the power being used....which also means if you could stand to drive without an A/C in 37-39C weather then your EV could probably get 11 to 12% more range. Now some BYD vehicle owners out there might ask, "Pib, how do you know its1.5KW since the EV KW real time usage only displays to whole number....does "not" reflect to a decimal point while driving....like 1.5, 14.2, 13.8KW, etc?" Well, it because I have used OBD2 data (i.e., an OBD2 dongle with a OBD2 app) while driving along which does provide readouts to 1 or 2 decimal points depending on the parameter being measured For example, the Percent of Charge remaining only reflects whole numbers from 0 to 100% on the EV display but in OBD2 data it reflects to one decimal point....example: 95% displayed on the EV could be anything between 94.5% to 95.4%........40% could be anything from 39.5 to 40.4%.....etc....it just how BYD rounds the charge percentage. And for a 100% charge percentage as soon as the charge drops to 99.4% in the OBD2 data the EV display will drop to 99% (but anything from 99.5 to 100% the EV still shows 100%)....kinda explains why going from 100% to 99% generally happens faster than from 99 to 98%, 50 to 49%, etc. So, when you are watching your EV display the very second the charge percentage drops to say 80% you really have 80.4%, when it drops to 40 your really have 40.4%, etc. And when you are charging the EV at home like on the wall charger when say the charge percentage shows 90% it can be anything from 89.5% to 90.4% in the OBD2 data....so, the very moment the display charges to 90% you really have 89.5% charge per OBD2 data which displays to one decimal point regarding charge percentage. Now for "real time" KW usage (repeat, real time usage) the OBD2 data displays to two decimal points....like 14.12KW, 12.89KW, etc. So, when just setting at a red light at a dead stop with the A/C running if the EV displays say 1KW it could actually be using 1.00 to 1.99KW....if displaying 2KW it could actually be using 2.00 to 2.99KW, etc., and if the EV displays 0KW that does not mean you are not using any power as your A/C continues to hum along....it just means the A/C is using 0.99KW or less. Basically, for real time KW usage it "rounds-down" to a whole number....ex: 0.99 or 0.50KW would round down to 0KW.......1.01 or 1.99KW would round down to 1KW. For real time usage it just the way my Atto rounds and displays numbers....I expect other BYD models do it the same way....BYD rounds differently for certain parameters. Now, where the displays shows your KW usage "over the Past 50Km" extrapolated to represent KW/100Km that does display on the EV to the first decimal point like 12.6KW, 15.1KW, etc. Anyway, it just so happens today I did around 150Km of driving over approx 2.5hrs...visited the MIL...the ambient temp was in the 37 to 39C ballpark....A/C set to 22C....at a stop light while my EV display would show 1KW being used, my OBD2 data shows around 1.5 to 1.8KW really being used.....even if I squeaked up to 1.99KW usage on OB2 data by lowering the temp a little the EV display would still show 1KW...but as soon as I hit 2.0KW the EV display would change to 2KW. And when starting the A/C in the "MAX" mode where the A/C goes balls to the wall at 18C to quickly cool the car down the A/C can pull approx 3.25KW but as soon as it gets things cooled down somewhat it shifts to Auto mode and say to 22C then the KW usage will drop below 2KW....maybe go down close to or even below 1KW...a lot depends on just how hot the inside of the car is. A few months ago when it was a lot cooler....more like around 30C everyday...with my A/C set to 22C at stop light the EV display would sometimes drop to 0KW....but as already mentioned I was still using power but it was just 0.99KW or less real world but the way the EV rounded down "real time" KW usage it makes it look like you are using less or very little power. In closing and just to repeat although the "real time usage" which is changing/updating a couple times per second when it comes to actual consumption being reported like on the Past 50Km usage, total consumption since owning the car, etc., that is still being reporting to you to the first decimal point like 12.7Km, etc. Yeap, OBD2 data will give a person more detailed KW usage....to the 1st or 2nd decimal point depending on what is being measured. I got some info on battery temperature also but will leave that for another post.

The BYD Seal and I think the Dolphin do use a LFP 12V battery; however, the BYD Atto uses a 12V no maintenance "lead acid" battery. See the picture at the bottom from my Atto 3. There are youtube videos showing where some people have swapped out the lead acid battery for an LFP battery. And no the "L" on the end of the part number below does not mean a Lithium type battery....it just relates to battery terminal orientation....many battery part numbers come with a L or R as part of the part number to designate positive/negative terminal orientation. My Atto 3 Battery....lead acid

Yes....this is normal. I submitted my LTR pensioner application by just submitting my latest "monthly" statement from each of U.S. government pensions, a couple of 1099's showing annual distributions of some dividends and a small IRA annual payment along with the bank interest worksheet from my U.S. tax return 1040. I also includes a two page memo where I explained my annual income with a chart that basically converted my monthly pensions to an annual amount and also explained how one of my pension (a Veterans' Administration) pension was totally/100% tax free and how another pension was partially tax free. I wanted to see if I could get away without submitting my US 1040 tax return because income on the form is significantly less because VA pension is totally non-taxable & non-reportable on a tax form by US law...in fact, the VA does not provide any annual tax form like a 1099. I wanted to set the stage "if" BOI asked for my tax return, which is a joint return with the wife, and fell a little below $80K that I had already explained why my tax return amounts were very significantly south of the income amounts shown on the monthly pension statements, etc. And lo and behold the BOI did ask for 1 year worth of tax return....I uploaded that tax return and within just a few hours I could by a status change BOI was now happy I met the income requirement. I feel the initial income data I provided had really satisfied them, HOWEVER, BUT they still wanted to my tax return as "secondary" document support and maybe also knowing if I had a tax return as a US person who is required to file an income tax return regardless of what country or planet you live on that by providing a tax return I wasn't trying to pull the income wool over BOI eyes, tap dancing regarding my income, etc. Now come the LTR 5 year renewal review I won't have to worry that my tax return showing a little less than 80K after all the non-taxable/non reportable stuff since I will have been drawing another retirement fixed income benefit which will up my taxable income by a goodly amount. So, if you want your LTR visa approved you need to provide a tax return since BOI asked for it. If you feel you need to explain your income because the tax return might reflect a much lower income then include a one or two page memo explaining the situation. BOI understands a lot about income taxes, tax laws in other countries, etc...they can figure out when an applicant is trying to make-up income vs really having the income. And that many applicants submit applications once they start drawing a pension and don't want to wait until they have 1 or 2 years worth of "income tax return" documentation to provide further proof of the income. The primary proof for pension/retirement acct type income is still the monthly, quarterly, and/or annual statement you get from that pension paying entity.

Yea....the stats in EOW's post must have been cold winter testing. From going to the weblink in the post it seems the testing was done in the UK but I couldn't find any details about each test like time of year and road condition when the testing was done....maybe it there somewhere but I couldn't fine it and it's not reflected in the chart. By converting the numbers in that chart to Watthours per kilometer the Atto was using 285 Wh/km at a highway speed of 75mph (120kmh). When comparing that 285 Wh/km when cruising at 120kmh (75mph) in -10C weather with heating on it's pretty close to the 257 Wh/km (68mph) when cruising 110kmh in -10C weather with heating on as reflected by below efficiency data at the ev-database.org website. I expect when speeding-up from 110kmh to 120kmh in -10C weather with heaters it would be around 285 Wh/km. I'm not too worried about ever having to operate my Atto in -10C winter weather conditions here in Thailand where range drops very significantly for any EV. https://ev-database.org/car/1782/BYD-ATTO-3#efficiency

Durn near all of the potentially "big" jumps in battery capacity deal with "solid state" battery technology where basically the gooey liquid electrolyte in the battery is replaced with a "solid" electrolyte. Now of course it more technical than just switching from a liquid to solid electrolyte but that's the foundation. Below are a couple of good articles to help explain solid state batteries in layman terms, challenges yet to overcome, etc. Solid state batteries appear to be the next generation of batteries....will definitely increase EV range by a lot. https://www.newscientist.com/article/2398896-what-are-solid-state-batteries-and-why-do-we-need-them/ https://www.samsungsdi.com/column/technology/detail/56462.html?listType=gallery' https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/things-know-solid-state-batteries-vijay-tharad-yfv1c

If EV battery capacity say increases by 50% with a corresponding drop in price of around 50% over the next few years it will cause EV sales to sky rocket and ICEV sales to descend very significantly. Heck, Toyota and Honda will even have to start producing EVs unless they want to fade away while mumbling "ICEV Forever!!!" And assuming more people get comfortable with EV technology (it takes time & learning) and the charging infrastructure continues to improve I think EV sales will continue to grow at a very healthy pace.

Yea...there are EVs that can go 1000Km right now like the NIO ET7 that did the 1000Km run which had a 150KWH battery which is like 2 to 2.5 times the capacity of a typical EV right now. But that big capacity 150KWH battery surely comes at a high price right now. EV battery pack capacity will continue to increase with little to no increase in physical size of battery pack but I think it will be done in small steps instead of like all of a sudden in just a few years all new EVs have twice their current 2024 year range. There is so much battery hype right now....like how Toyota has been promising a solid state battery for years and years and years already that will propel it past Tesla. That Toyota solid state battery is still years away "if", repeat if Toyota ever decides to go the EV way which they don't seem to be really interested in doing.