sinewave

piston and rings are around 2k-2.5k baht.

boring is less than 500 baht.

labor is around 500-700 baht.

gasket around 200 baht.

the pe28 keihin carb is from the NSR proarm...around 1.5k-2k baht...theres real ones and fake ones, the real ones have copper on the bottom of the slide.

faddy is way overpriced.

the same kit faddy sells for 7k baht can be found for 4800 baht.

I got a hook up on cams for 3500 baht, i think this is close to dbs prices...im not 100% sure, but i think all these cams may be the same just relabled...you have to remove the gear from the original cams and get it pressed onto the new cams...you dont have to drop the engine to change the cams.

The valve shims may need to be replaced to spec also, as a matter of fact if your rebuilding your bike its probably mandatory. around 150 baht each, 3 day wait if the dealer doesnt have the right size in stock.

i will do a motor rebuild. After 45k kms its not blowing smoke and goes fine but does use a little oil. As much as i'd like to buy a new ER6F, economics and the fact that the CBR is fine for my use stops me. Any suggestions on piston, rod, cam or other mods? I'm looking for a slighter faster bike but want to keep the tractability, is it worth the cost of a lighter piston or just go for a factory oversize piston? At the moment i will keep the original CDI unit. I am running a 28mm carbie and bigger exhaust header pipe. I am also running the 15/47 sprocket combo which i find great.

I use the Michelin Sporty Pilots (there is a discussion earlier in this thread), one of the best things you can do to the CBR for ride, handling and safety.

i believe you can use the original cylinder sleeve up to sizes 65-66mm with a little boring out, for the 70mm piston im pretty sure you will have to get another sleeve made.

stage 1 cams are for pistons 66mm and below, stage 2 cams are for 180cc up.

some stiffer clutch springs will give you a much better start.

there's the usual spark mods too, NGK -CR8EGP needle plugs gapped to 1mm there is also a CR8, but it is not a needle plug...remove the resistor in the boot and use a better sparkplug wire.

15/47 is 3.13

14/44 is 3.14

funny thing is eventhough they differ by 0.01 you can still tell the difference...Wondering if a custom ratio like 12/36 (3.00) would have characteristics unlike 14/42 (also 3.00) since the weight would be reduced.

My friend tried 14/47, which was great for wheelies, but felt like the bike was going to blow up and the gears meshed like crap.

here's some numbers i put together:

in order of ratio:

3.35 = 14/47

3.14 = 14/44

3.13 = 15/47

3.00 = 14/42

2.94 = 16/47

2.93 = 15/44

2.86 = 14/40

2.80 = 15/42

2.75 = 16/44

2.67 = 15/40

2.63 = 16/42

2.50 = 16/40

grouped:

3.14 = 14/44

2.93 = 15/44

2.75 = 16/44

3.00 = 14/42

2.80 = 15/42

2.63 = 16/42

2.86 = 14/40

2.67 = 15/40

2.50 = 16/40

thaicbr, you remind me of my drunk uncle...cheers man.

Wondering how many are on this board, and what city y'all are in.

Bangkok here!

sinewave. You have had this done so why don't you just put the part numbers up. That way it will save these poor people spending 200-300b on a parts manual that you already have.

Phobic. still waiting for you current address. PM me and i will send you the pipe and a set of tyres.

i dont have the part numbers handy, but torrentreactor has a few links to download them for free.

asean motors has them, but its cheaper to get them custom made at a machine shop...easiest thing to do is bring them a gear and tell them to cut another one with more teeth.

CBR parts manual is between 200-300 baht...then you can pin point which gears are which.

phobic, did your bike have an aluminum gasket under the cylinder?

been seeing more and more cops on CBR 150's lately, kinda worrying...in the event you have to run, wonder if they are modifying their bikes??? have to check what sprockets theyre using.

got stopped on Sukhumvit two weeks ago and asked about his boxer 200, he said it was fast (160kph) but not smooth like the CBR or Click.

the rev limiter cuts in at around 11.5k-12k...starts sputtering.

getting a new 5th and 6th gear is one of the best things to do for this bike new ratios are something along the lines of:

first number is the main gear/second number is the counter gear.

original gears:

5th 24/25 = 1.04

6th 26/24 = 0.92

new gears:

5th 24/27 = 1.125

6th 26/26 = 1.00

with a new 6th you will pull twice as hard.

phobic try the 14/42 sprocket combo, no lag and no over rev, perfect for city driving up to 110kph...anything faster need to change the front sprocker for out of town trips. I just throw the 15t/16t sprocket under the seat incase I go out of town.

peace, your past carb problems were probably do to the choke engaging itself, along with the fuel valve mounted underneath the gas tank malfunctioning.

to transfer ownership, you need a copy of the registered owners CURRENT ID card - before the ID card expires.

If the ID card is expired you will have to track down the owner and get a current copy...you will also need the 'power of attorney' document - this allows you to transfer ownership without the previous owner being present.

Shipping to another country, just send it as parts. No title required.

Arh racing, I see youre around samut prakan, go to one of the motorcycle taxi's across from seacon square and ask them to lead you to Arh racing....guy did my bike many years ago, but has moved and i can't find him any longer... his son took a handlebar in the gut, so i'm not sure if he's still doing it.

This is the only person i can recommend, since he did prior work to my bike and did a good job, nothing ever broke, but took it back once to readjust the timing...some shops can do it, but not all shops can do it properly without things breaking.

cost me 6k baht, excluding cdi, gears, brake reservoir and a 428 instead of the 415 chain.

i'll poke around and see if he's still doing it, i'll let you know later.

lithium iron phosphate batteries need to be a bit cheaper before they go mainstream, there's only a handful of manufacturers with reliable products.

there's the :

1. intake/exhaust port and carburetor port mods

2. advanced ignition mod

3. four stages to the clutch mod - springs, shorter post, less plates, copper plates

4. the bike should already have carbon reeds, but may be worn out by now.

5. lengthened stroke - but will be lethargic for the first 15 feet (unless you rev up), but then the powerband will slap you in the face - not really good for city driving.

6. 415 racing chain and sprockets

7. bigger brake reservoir, stainless braided lines

8. CDI - don't over rev and blow your piston.

9. higher compression, either shave the head or a taller piston - if applicable

10. internal gears, probably the best mod if there are any deadspots -

eg: the cbr 150 has an extremely short 1st gear and a tall 6th gear that drops rpms way too much.

My 1st, 2nd, 5th, 6th gears have been done and pulls twice as hard in 6th. Shifting from 5th to 6th the stock gearing loses about 1200 rpm, now im only losing 500 rpm on the upshift.

Aw- seems I missed a food fight? Hope it was a good one!

In other news, the reclusive sinewave has finally been caught on camera...

Party on scooter boy!

keep it up buddy, i know what your riding.

Ah- didn't realize you were on such a limited budget... Guess you can't afford a proper bike.

so what are you riding?

Drag racing on a skinny tire 150... SineWave must have MAD skills!

2500 baht for a set of tires - OR 2500baht for a carb OR racing clutch plates/pressure plates and racing springs OR 2500 baht is half the cost of a 180cc bore up kit OR 2500 baht is the cost of a good pipe and silencer.

get the picture?

i'll get the training wheels last fellas, because i 'do' have mad skills....don't weigh over 70kilos and aren't as top heavy as you fat bastards.

around the bends? thats where i excel, but obviously bangkok traffic doesn't really allow for many twist and bends....so the tires will come last.

why wear the tires out before the power really comes together?...that would be a waste of money.

it amazes me how some people change from the worn out skinny stock IRC's - then move to a new and wider tire with fresh rubber and say the new tires are far better with much better grip....

just got back from ban saen leaving from the srinakarin/pattanakarn intersection, going through suvarnabhumi airport connecting to bang na....1 hour flat very windy day, going through ang sila...average 110 kph

The tires don't bother me at all, only time they freak me out is over painted road stripes....I set my bike up for straight runs and prefer a harder compound. Plus i know how to ride it

Spoked wheels aren't actually lighter than the mags, its a myth...i did a weight comparison between mags and unspoked alloy rims, and the difference was less than 100 grams...add the spokes and they may just end up being heavier.

the major difference would be the flywheel effect, the more equal weight distribution around the rim adds a more balanced momentum....the effect of spokes cutting the air may or may not have a desireable effect also.

no pics

im 80/90 - 90/80 friends 80/90 - 110/80... plain IRC eagles the 110 grips alot better than the 90/80......your bike, i don't know what size...

thaicbr he fixed it up...the silencer had to be repacked and was losing too much back pressure, and the jetting was off...gotta rejet with a new pipe, or else it will run lean.

we aint running 160 kph sustained, too dangerous and too much wind resistance...but it's happening as well as for many other thai guys that have a stronger spark.

bigbike - get it right>>>modified 150cc bored and stroked to 250cc, modified clutch, crank, cdi, pipe, carb and porting up to 140 kph...full race set up...not just a 150cc bike, but i understand your are one of the members with a reading and comprehension problem...i use to meet guys like you on the track >>get a bad start and blame it on the bike.

i know 3 cbr 150's that are doing 160kph, speedometer not gps...but since no bike is 100% accurate, its compareable to other bikes...all riders are under 80 kilos.

but requires regapping the plug, removing the resistor, and better sparkplug wire for a stronger spark....and a sprocket ratio of 15/44, 15/47 or 14/44 >>> 16/38/40/42/44...won't cut it.

one of these bikes is my friends, another is mine and the other is your old bike thaicbr, after i gave your buyer some tips.

Sinewave. 2600baht your were ripped mate. I've had two done now (and one was a modified cbr150 barrel onto a cbr250) and they cost me 700 and 900baht respectively. Not Honda badged parts but a high quality OEM product.

So yes Croc it does make sense to change it if that gives you peace of mind. also get a good disc lock (maybe with an alarm (you can get them on mocyc.com)

Allan

.

that was original OEM honda parts with -key hole slide cover assembly- and additional key barrel for the rear seat lock assembly, didn't get it done, just checked on the price while i was getting my fuel filter changed...my jaws dropped when they told me 2600 baht, i told her i'd wait.

i use a padlock through the sprocket...cheap and effective, get solex not solo

2600 baht

god i hope that bikes comes to thailand.

I've never had to tighten a belt.

The Thai postal system can deliver motorcycles, there are a couple of CBR 150's in the thai visa classified section as mentioned earlier.

I believe the real question is - "Have you ever ridden a full 150cc race bike"....My NSR 150 which was highly modified with stock displacement would KILL bigger bikes up to 140kph....

Hey silly, yeah we all read that nonsense you posted...

And you honestly believe it?!

What a muppet!

Huh?...Muppet?....I don't understand British banter, are you suggesting i'm in collaboration with Kermit the Frog?..