drtreelove

ค้นหาผู้ผลิต Verticutter ที่มีคุณภาพ และ Verticutter ใน Alibaba.com

scarifier, verticutter, renovator, de-thatcher, are similar tools/machines. I haven't seen a power verticutter, but I haven't looked. Maybe the power equipment shop in Bangkok that KickStart often mentions. If you are in Chiang Mai ask Khun Surasak at Sriyont farm equipment on the east river road in Wat Gate district. He is very helpful and he may be able to order a machine for you. I doubt if he has one in stock. It is not a process that is common for Thai home landscapes, maybe golf courses, but there's will probably be larger tractor drawn implements. 

I've seen a manual dethatcher rake but can't remember if it was Home Pro, Global House or other.

19-Tine Adjustable Thatch Rake | eBay

If it's thatch control you are trying to achieve, you can do a certain amount with biological decomp aids, like a good EM, or compost tea inoculant. I used EM from OrganicTotto on our Malaysia grass lawn, once a month or so in the irrigation water, as well as twice annual compost topdressing, and never had to dethatch. But that's Ya Malaysia, it's easy to manage. I used to manage landscapes with burmuda grass and annual dethatching was essential. 

Dr Supachai, Big Smile Dental Clinic. คลินิกยิ้มแฉ่ง เชียงใหม่ - Photos | Facebook

He has taken care of dental needs for me and my family for 18 years. He's good, and affordable.  

Humic substances, humic acid, fulvic acid, humin are very valuable components in a soil and plant health program with many benefits. I use humate ore (leonardite) and its derivatives regularly in soil amendment mixes and fulvic acid in foliar fertilization.  But quality matters and there are many poor quality products that are sold to the unknowing. 

AgroLig is available in Thailand, I bought it from bonemeal.net. 

Agro-Lig | Minerals Technologies Inc.

Read more about benefits through this link and the attached article

Organic Humate Fertilizers - Humic and Fulvic (agsolcanada.com)

ORGANICMATTERPettit.pdf

3 hours ago, TKI said:

What i understand from what i have been told is this:

The powder is from Europe. It is made of nano particulated mineral stone. It is dissolved in water and then sprayed on on the plant foliage. The mineral crystals supply nutrients to the plant. But mainly, for their molecular activity, vibration or pulsation (whatever it is called, i am not a physicist :)) they are loaded with a certain positive energy. Which is supposed to vitalize the plant, aid to healthy growth and increase its resistance to diseases and water shortages. 

 

 

You may be on to something on the cutting edge of plant nutrition and quite useful.  Now that you explain that the product is nano particle based, I know that nanotechnology in plant nutrition is an emerging science with some positive research on uses and benefits.

Nanoparticles in sustainable agriculture: An emerging opportunity - ScienceDirect

(PDF) Nanotechnology: Innovative Approach in Crop Nutrition Management (researchgate.net)

I'm interested in this but haven't explored it, except that I use a high quality fulvic acid product as a nano particle adjuvant, a carrier for leaf penetration of nutrients in foliar fertilization. And the fulvic acid substance has its own beneficial actions.

I believe in soil and the amazing relationships and processes present in biologically active living soil with growing plants, as the primary medium for plant nutrition. I have seen many systems and products that try to shortcut and avoid the hard work and expense that soil improvement takes.  I've used foliar treatments as a supplement to good soil based nutrition, but never thought that foliar applicaitions can replace nature's beautiful, natural way of soil based fertility.  But with a nano particle fertilizer, maybe you will prove me wrong.

If the product is European based, there will likely be some studies behind it, and you should get your hands on all the information that you can. Besides field trials, in order to legally sell a fertilizer product in Thailand you will have to have documentation of the product description as well as a lab analysis of the contents.  

With the new normal, cannabis growers may be interested. As well as vegetable growers, hydroponic growers and home gardeners. It would be a great thing if you could help nourish the rice crops and livestock feed crops, that are usually grown on worn out, nutrient deficient soils and only harsh chemical fertilizer inputs that don't provide optimum nutrients for healthy food production. 

My recomendation is to focus on getting the irrigation part ready, because the hot season is coming right up. In most areas of Thailand, except maybe in the mountains, it gets hot and dry by the middle of February, especially by March.  New sod or rejuvenated existing grass could be lost very fast without adequate water. You will need to water at every stage, planting, aeration, fertilizing, and daily maintenance. So decide what method you will use and get it functional during the next few weeks. 

I highly recommend that you consider going organic with your lawn care. Here are a couple of links with some tips. There is a lot more info on the Internet including YouTube videos. 

Organic Lawn Care: How to Go Chemical-Free and Maintenance Tips - This Old House

Organic Lawn Care 101 - Maintaining a Chemical-Free Lawn | Planet Natural

On 1/4/2021 at 7:30 AM, ourmanflint said:

Nobody has mentioned Groundnuts yet have they? Would have thought Isaan was a good location for growing them successfully. 

The climate would be okay I believe, but I'm not sure about the soil.  It depends on the site and the soil management. Groundnuts need sandy soil, or well amended, loose soil in good tilth. The reason is that peanuts develop just below the soil grade and to harvest them, the plant is pulled up, peanuts, roots and all; the nuts are picked from the pulled up plant. If the soil is too heavy, of course it's harder to pull up the plant without losing a percentage of the nuts. 

I have not worked with peanuts in modern mechanized harvest.  In the organic farm that I worked at in India, the soil in the groundnut fields was a sandy loam that had many seasons of incorporating the crop residues by tractor discing, post harvest peanut plants, as the well as the millet and sorgum rotations, along with dairy manure. So the soil was rich and had amazing tilth, the peanut production was abundant, and the harvest was a breeze. 

17 hours ago, planemad said:

 

 

 

 

Seems that this has stumped everyone. After much research, it appears that the Latin name is Gmelina philippensis, Gmelina elliptica, or Gmelina villosa. Common names include Hedgehog, Parrot's Beak and Ching-chai. I found it through the Thai name ต้นช้องแมว which translates simply as Cypress.

 

Interesting, thanks. 

On 1/10/2021 at 6:39 PM, cooked said:

I was a so called lawn and green specialist, have a lot of qualifications and experience.  You want to know what I do? I let the cows out on to the greenish bit when it gets to untidy.

Cooked my friend, is that what its come to, with all your qualifications and experience?  Buriram style lawn care, let the cows out? OMG.  ????

Lets help the guy, and others who may have the same question. 

There are reasons to consider alternatives to lawn grass, and to use other ground covers that are more ecologically friendly and are not so needy of water, power equipment use and chemical fertilizers. But if you are determined, here are some thoughts:

The first step in my opinion, is to evaluate your resources and budget and how much work you are willing to do yourself, or will you be hiring workers to install and maintain your lawn. 

If your existing grass is in reasonably good condition, growing on reasonably good soil and not heavily weed infested, then work with improving the soil and water management as much as possible.

The right amount of watering is critical, not too much or too little. Too much can create root rot, too little will allow drought stress. Install a good irrigation system or use a hose-end sprinkler from HomePro or other shop, that you move around to get good watering done, usually daily during the dry season. Deep watering encourages deeper rooting and better drought tolerance, but don't keep it muddy wet. Get to know your own soil and how much water it takes to wet it, and how long it takes to dry out.  Water accordingly. 

The second easiest improvement to make is to "top-dress" the grass with a half inch (1.25 cm) or so of fine, composted chicken manure (like the CP sack compost ("pui insee") product called Maw Din. Don't add so much so that it covers the grass and shades it out from sunlight and photosynthesis. Water it so that it filters in to the grass and down to the soil grade.  A more thorough application would be to aerate and allow the compost to filter in to the holes as well as down through the grass blades. The composted chicken manure will be enough fertilizer to get started, but after a month or so, when the weather starts to warm up, you can begin to fertilize monthly or every six weeks with an organic or chemical fertilizer product. To be discussed later. 

But if your grass is trash and you're not sure how much is the desireable grass and how much is just green weed growth, then you may want to consider starting over by removing the existing turf and installing new sod.  Many grass vendors offer this installation, but they will likely short cut the process and lay the grass on top of hard clay without much preparation. I've always done my own sod installations, and incorporated (dug or rototilled) a good amount of compost into the soil before laying the sod.  Good preparation makes a difference for grass health, appearance and longevity. 

Seeding is an option, but it takes a few weeks for the seeds to sprout and the grass to establish, and during that time you cannot walk or play or allow pets or kids (or cows) to disturb the new growth, and weed growth can get established sometimes faster than the grass. Go with sod. 

I'm sorry to see that you haven't had some replies. I passed it up at first view because you have asked a huge question that would take considerable time and expertise to answer completely. 

Preparation is everything when installing a new lawn: incorporation of organic matter/compost, and installation of an irrigation system or planning how you will water the grass with sprinklers or drenching during the dry season. But you have an existing lawn, so you will have to start with what you have and go from there. Aeration, pulling of plugs or poking holes provides entry sites for adding fine compost and maybe gypsum to improve the growing conditions and allow oxygen to penetrate a compacted clay soil. 

For weed control, fertilization, and other management ideas,  try a search for the many previous discussions here and on the Farming In Thailand forum.  

I went through a similar process, starting with Mark Leoni. He is a true healer, his hands are perceptive and energized for healing. His practice in my opinion is above and beyond conventional chiropractic. He does a very thorough initial assessment, has physical therapists on staff, and refers to an orthopedist MD when appropriate.

I also like St Louis Hospital, the orthopedic department has a full range of specialists. There is also a very good Traditional Chinese Medicine Dept there at St Louis, for acupuncture and herbal medicine.  

Samut Prakan office at Pak Nam is like that, it could have something to do with the fresh air from the sea breeze and being located right on the river. It's well managed, no up-tight officers, I've always been treated respectfully and efficiently.  There are few farangs using that office, so their headache is the multitude of foreign workers being processed for the big industrial sector. 

And when you're done, you can take a stroll along the river, through the market, and take a boat across to the market on the other side and the historical sites. 

Explore Samut Prakan – สถานที่ท่องเที่ยวจังหวัดสมุทรปราการ (paknam.com)

On 12/23/2020 at 11:32 PM, MrJ said:

is there an under soil watering automatic time controlled system for lan/grass available in Thailand?

I don't know about a subsurface system for turf, but if anyone has what you are looking for, it would be Netafim: 

Netafim Thailand - 904 Photos - Product/Service - Phetchaburi Road, Bangkok, Thailand 10310 (facebook.com)

Or Thai Garden Design may know:

Thai Garden Design - The Thai Landscaping Experts

Horrified tourists saw Thai tour guide stung to death by giant wasps - which then feasted on his body for FOUR DAYS (thesun.co.uk)

Yours are surely not these giant Asian hornets, but Tiger wasps or another species.  BTW they are not all bad, they are natural pest predators, biological control agents. But it's inconvenient and sometimes dangerous to have them nest close to your home. 

The posts suggesting hiring a professional or enlisting locals to remove the nest is very good information to consider.

Pesticides sprayed in the outside of the nest will not contact a large percentage of the wasps, eggs and larvae inside. Repeated drenching may do it. 

If you can't find the 20 foot wasp spray, any termite, cockroach, ant insecticide will do the job. But not mosquito spray, its too diluted. 

Use one with an active ingredient of a pyrethroid, like permethrin, cypermethrin, alphacypermethrin, bifenthrin. Pyrethroids at the concentrations used for insect pests, are low toxicity for mammals - people and pets. 

Chaindrite Crack and Crevice (alphacypermethrin, bifinthrin)  aerosol will get you a few feet away. Drench the nest, at night if possible to avoid getting swarmed. Tiger wasps can seriously injure or kill a human. 

A professionally designed and installed system will not be cheap, but maybe worth it if you can afford it. There are many things to consider and Do It Yourself first time usually means a big learning experience.

You may find more suggestions in the Housing/ DIY, and/or Farming forum.  

I am not an irrigation specialist, but I have installed very simple irrigation systems in small yards where we have lived, with parts from Home Pro, Global House and local hardware stores. At our current house, I converted an existing ornamental fish pond to an irrigation water holding tank, supplied from municipal water, with a float valve filler shut off.  I put in a auto pressure pump to feed the PVC lines and impulse sprinklers. I turned it on manually for awhile, but later I installed a simple timer for the water pump on/off switch. 

In Chiang Mai at Kamtieng plant market, there is at least one irrigation shop with all kinds of parts as well as design and installation available. 

Huen Phen in old city 

Baan Huen Phen

But if you are looking for inexpensive hearing aids, Siemans-Signia and DEAR are not in that category.  (After over 50 years of chainsaws and brush chippers, I've tried them all)  The best over the counter devices I've found (in the US, not in Thailand) is RCA Symphonix (if you can get them, try EBay). I keep one as a backup. There's a rechargeable style, and a battery model (least expensive).  They have the best background noise filtering; other cheapies just amplify everything.

RCA Symphonix Personal Sound Amplifier Hearing Aid RPSA05A | eBay

I've been very happy with new Signia hearing aids, as well as warranty repairs from DEAR Hearing. I've used their shops at two locations in Bangkok, also Chiang Mai and Chonburi. 

Go to the main office at Sukhothai Road in Dusit district if you can.

สาขาของเรา — DEAR Hearing

You would have to answer that question, if the cracks appeared in such a short timespan. I suspect that the condition was there, but maybe accelerated with the heavy rainy period. It could be from a rapid growth response, or there is a possibility of a fungal infection with the wet weather. But all the cracked palm stems that I have seen have been related to water and nutrition issues. 

As far as removing the affected stems, you have to be the judge. If the green fronds have dried up then yes, that stem may be dead.  But surface cracking may not affect the uptake of water and nutrients. If the foliar growth appears normal then there may be no need to remove that portion. Palms have vascular bundles/conductive tissue throughout the stem and not just around the outside circumference like other woody trees. So even with superficial damage, the uptake can continue. 

What Causes Cracks In My Palm Tree Trunk? (gardenersyards.com)

Rosemary Plants: Care and Growing Guide (thespruce.com)

Soil

Grow rosemary in sandy, well-draining soil. This plant is native to the rocky hillsides of the Mediterranean and doesn't do well if its roots stay wet.

Water

Water rosemary plants when the soil is completely dry. Be careful not to over-water and avoid making the soil soggy (especially when growing in containers), as this leads to root rot.

Your plants are possibly experiencing "damping off" disease.  IssanAussie called attention to this phenomenon in a previous similar discussion in the last year or two in the farming forum. 

Damping off - Wikipedia

Good water management is first, overwatering can cause root rot, water deficit can cause die-back.

Complete soil fertility and plant nutrition is essential for enabling plants to build natural resistance to disease. 

Complete organic fertilizer will help, like OrganicTotto bokashi, which has complete nutrition including calcium and micro-nutrients that most high NPK chemical fertilizers don't have. 

Don't sterilize the soil or you will kill the multitude of vital, beneficial soil organisims along with the few pathogens.

EM can help, but I would use a specific biological fungicide with Trichoderma harzianum strain to combat the various fungal pathogens that are a possible cause of the damping off. 

Trichoderma harzianum - Wikipedia

Light thinning and shaping of water jasmine is usually all that is required.

If the plants are grown as a hedge or for screening purpose, then shaping the longest, tallest shoots down into the intended height and shape, without excessive reduction cuts is easy to do. It's best to do this frequently, like monthly, so that excessive reduction is never needed. Heavy reduction produces and heavy growth response and sets you up for major maintenance needs. 

If the plants are grown as individuals, with natural form and beauty preserved, then light thinning and structural corrections can accompany a light shaping. 

Pruning should always be done based on assessment of the current condition of the plant, intended function (screening, ornamental aesthetics, flowering, fruiting) size and density of foliage and other factors. Trees and shrubs should be pruned only with purpose and with awareness of the growth response and physiological effects. Heavy pruning means reduction of leaf surface and therefore reduction in capacity for photosynthesis of sugars that nourish the plant. Heavy reduction pruning can result in stress and susceptibility to pests and disease, starvation, and a drastic vegetative growth response as the plant tries to regain leaf surface for food manufacture. 

Water management and fertilization should be considered along with timing of a pruning operation. Pruning after the primary flowering cycle is preferred. Pruning in early spring will produce a heavier growth response during spring flush of growth. Pruning during fall or dry season will mean less of a growth response, species, site conditions, soil moisture and other factors considered. 

It can be detrimental for tree health and survival to raise the grade in the root zone. Extraordinary measures can be taken, but it's still a gamble on whether the tree will adapt.  Filling soil against the trunk and root collar of the tree is often a death sentence. Raising the soil grade over the absorbing root system is sometimes tolerated by the tree, but it can also mean a long slow decline and eventual mortality. You may not know until the damage is done and is irreversible. 

The primary issue is aeration of absorbing roots and the fill soil creating hypoxia (lack of oxygen), which can impair root function and lead to root rot. Impaired drainage and wet roots that can't dry out in between rains or watering can create root rot.  The standard is not to raise the grade more than 6inches (15 cm) in a period of one year or more, without providing an aeration and drainage system. Fill 4 to 6 inches max, then wait for the absorbing roots to re-surface before adding more. 

Does the kind of dirt we use matter?  YES. For trees and other plant materials, think "soil", rich in mineral nutrients, organic matter and soil organisms.  For fill material, clayey subsoil is often used, which will be okay if you don't expect plants to thrive in it without serious soil building improvements. 

https://www.tinyplantation.com/soil-fertilizers/soil-vs-dirt#:~:text=Soil vs Dirt There is a big difference,but it is not where it should be.

Rangpur lime? 

https://leafyplace.com/types-of-limes/#:~:text=Types%20of%20Limes%3A%20Varieties%20of%20Lime%20Fruit%20from,Limes.%205%20Calamansi%20Limes%20%28Philippine%20Limes%29%20More%20items