drtreelove

Big Smile Dental Clinic.  Dr Supachai.  We have used him for years. High quality, good communications, reasonable pricing. 

https://www.facebook.com/BigSmileChiangmai

They have moved from old Arak Road location to new office on the 1001 hwy, on the stretch after SuperHwy and before Mee Chok/ring road.

13 hours ago, IsaanAussie said:

Thanks for your last two posts, very helpful. Do you have a source of soil testing and amendment prescriptions here in Thailand we could use? 

I will have a look at the Trichodermia product when next in town, sounds like a viable tool against damping off and possibly rice blast. 

Yes the Trichoderma h. biofungicide is becoming quite popular, for soil borne pathogens and foliar fungal disease suppression.  There are several formulations/strains on the shelf at the big cannabis growers supply shops here in weed-legal California. Also, I was just taking a fresh look at tree wound dressings and found an Australian Trichoderma product that has some research behind it, for vineyard pruning cut treatments. I'm going to be recommending it for tree root pruning on construction sites for suppression of soil borne fungal pathogens that infect cut roots and cause root and crown rot. The thing to know about biological fungicides,  is that they are not the same as chemical fungicides, the action is different, and they need moisture and sugar-food to survive and stay effective. 

The photos I posted of products are from an ag shop across the road from MaeJo U campus, Chiang Mai. There may be other sources. 

For soil testing, I have not found resources in Thailand for full range nutrient analysis consistent with my preferred system of high nutrient density/Cation Exchange Capacity based analysis, only SLAN system (Sufficiency Level of Supplied Nutrients).  Most growers don't know the difference and think that a university must have the best soil testing available. But that is controversial. SLAN is field-crop/broadacre oriented for chemical fertilizer inputs and does not use Total CEC and does not address cation balancing and full range of macro and micro nutrients. SLAN will get you what's needed for maximum yield with minimal expense, but it won't necessarily get you high quality, best taste and color, shelf life and nutrition, pest and disease resistance. 

I haven't used NTS 'Nutrition Farming' soil testing services out of Queensland, but you may know more about that than I do through your Aussie agronomist friend.  I have been working with the bonemeal factory out of Nakhon Pathom,  with some of their Thai farmer customers, organic growers who are sending soil samples to Logan Labs in the US, a state of the art CEC based lab, popular with Albrecht system farmers. Contact bonemeal.net for quotes on soil testing. And they have bulk amendments for sale too.

gecko eggs? 

In addition: 

-if you are mixing these bio-pesticides, put a liter of molasses in the tank mix as sugar-food for the beneficial biology. (available at HomePro garden section)

- avoid high NPK chemical fertilizers. If it turns out to be a disease, like Phytophthora root and crown rot, the high N and K will contribute to the advance of the disease.  High salt index fertilizers dessicate roots and increase drought stress, and are detrimental to beneficial soil organisms. 

- do soil testing and prescription amendments, based on actual deficiencies found.

- build soil fertility with organic matter inputs

- use a high quality EM soil drench regularly. I do monthly with EM-1 or EM from OrganicTotto, one liter per 20 liters water.   

Cooked is right, without a positive ID you are just going on hear-say and will not be able to address the problem directly.

I have not seen the rapid die-back that you are describing, attributed to "worms".  This type of rapid mortality is most often, in my experience, attributed to water deficit, drought stress.  Have you ruled that out? What is your irrigation program? 

Or the opposite, overwatering and root rot. How have you improved the soil in order to avoid poor drainage and nutrient deficiencies? High Magnesium to Calcium ratio makes a tight soil that cannot drain well. Jackfruit trees are highly susceptible to this. 

Look at these cultural factors first. Even if there turns out to be a pest or disease, the cultural factors, growing conditions will have created the susceptibility. I find this 99% of the time. An aggressive pest or disease that is not dependent on predisposing factors in the cultural conditions, is rare. 

If I suspected a "worm" infestation, I would get down and dirty and dig up a recent, or preferably an "in progress" fatality, examine the roots and root crown for specific damage, discoloration, and presence of grubs or other biology. Try to determine the exact damage and identify a specific causal agent.

Post photos if you do not have an educated advisor other than "a local", or a relationship with a university pomologist or laboratory. (In Chiang Mai I got good information on local pest and disease management from MaeJo U and Chiang Mai U agriculture dept and a helpful pomology professor). 

Short of a positive ID, I would approach it with a general purpose treatment program.  You don't say how many trees you have, but if a significant number, then a 'must have' is a 200 liter hydraulic tank sprayer. If one or two trees, then you can use a watering can or buckets. 

If I were guessing at possible soil borne disease or insect pests, beetles or moths and their larvae, I would make a soil drench tank mix with Azadirachtin (neem seed oil extract insecticide) for possible nematode infestation, plus two other types of biopesticides, Tricoderma h. to combat soil borne fungal disease, and Beauveria b. along with Metarhizium a. for grubs/larvae/worms of insect pest origin.

Please post your follow up discovery and treatment results. '

10 hours ago, Neilly said:

 

We live outside of town and on two sides is meadow land so we're never likely to have a really nice lawn with all the stuff/seeds that get blow in...I've taken Denim's approach for now...just so long as it ends up fairly uniform without damn great holes all over I'll be happy ????

 

I'm doing this now...I'll let you know in a year or so if it worked out ????

I think in a year or so you will still be out there pulling weeds. Hey as long as you are happy, it gives you something to do. Indefinitely. 

Me, I'd start over, and I'd go with Susco, go with ya Malaysia. It dominates and squeezes out weeds and ants. It's soft and cool and comfortable to lay around on, play with kids and pets. Mow it high, 3 inches, don't scalp it with a krueng tat ya. Water and fertilize. 

On 2/11/2020 at 6:06 AM, Susco said:

Not wanting to hijack this topic, but I have a nice lwan with Malay grass.

 

One section has large patches of a very tiny grass, and the patches are increasing in size.

 

The grass looks a bit like the picture but it is much more dense.

 

Any idea how to get rid of that?

 

Measure the square meters of the unwanted grass. Buy enough ya malaysia sod sections to replace it (one section as sold in most plant markets is half a sq meter) Buy some sacks of compost to fill in, level and top dress. Have a shovel and a hard steel rake on hand (not a flex leaf rake).

Dig out shallow sections of the unwanted grass and replace it with new patches of ya-malaysia sod.  Get it as level as possible, top dress with the compost to fill in the gaps. Water heavily. Hold the rake vertically and use the back of it as a tamper to squish and level the wet sod in place.  (A weighted roller is the professional way to do this, but that piece of equipment and expertise may not be available) 

Keep your malaysia grass healthy with good fertility and water management and it should dominate and suppress other species.  Spot pull weeds and grasses as they appear.  (spot spraying  with herbicide leaves ugly dry spots that take time to regrow)  Some say it needs shade, but my experience is that it can take full sun as long as you water it adequately. 

If you want a really nice lawn and have a budget to do it right, I recommend that you start over.  Use a non-selective herbicide to kill everything that is there, water and wait for resprouting and treat again.  Then invest in good soil preparation, with soil testing and prescription amendments based on actual mineral deficiencies found. Incorporate (roto-till) the recommended amendments plus copious organic matter (at least a 2"-3" layer), high quality compost if you can find it. Lay new sod and continually be diligent in managing fertility, water and weed control. 

https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/organic-lawn-fertilizer.html

https://www.thespruce.com/organic-weed-control-2153150

My stepdaughter lives on a oil palm farm and works at a processing plant in Chumphon.  PM me for contact information. Don

On 2/5/2020 at 11:35 PM, IsaanAussie said:

I have an Australian agronomist friend who consults in Asia and is interested in any opportunities here in Thailand. Typically he works with farming groups in India and Indonesia. Would anyone be potentially interested in being introduced? 

Yes.  You have my email.

Known as KruTor.  tree service owner. but I have been out of touch for a few years. He is a principal with Big Trees organization based in landscape architecture dept at Chula U They had a training program for tree workers.  I don't know current status.

By the way, Dinastinae is a sub-family of scarab beetles with many species.  The photo is I believe of an adult Oryctes rhinoceros

(This is not the "red palm weevil", also an important pest of palms in Thailand)

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/orn/palms/Oryctes_rhinoceros.htm

Prevention is the key to management. Advanced infestations are difficult or impossible to control.  If you have other palms, coconut and ornamentals like your royal palm, they are in peril from further infestations on your property. There have been several discussions on this forum and the Farming forum about preventive control options. Ask me if you need more information. don 

26 minutes ago, sanuk711 said:

Thanks for that feed back Sheryl & the link, although I have some pain, its only just started, so still in the early stages.

_{My advise is don't put it off. If you are sure you need the hip replacement done then schedule as soon as you can.  I waited and thought I could tough it out, but I was in considerable pain for a long time before I realized I aint' that tough, is spite of cortico-steroid injections and other pain meds.}

_{I returned to the US and had my first hip replacement done two months ago at Stanford Hospital, joint replacement center. Paid for 100% by Medicare and an AARP supplement insurance policy.} 

_{While in Thailand I visited several orthopedists in Bangkok, and had decided that if done there I would go with Dr Manoon team at St Louis Hosp.   Quote was 300,000 baht out the door. But I would have had to self-pay.}

_{https://zeekdoc.com/en/doctor/dr-manoon-sakdinakiattikoon-113}

While at the brand new Stanford Hospital in California, I went the full route with physical therapy (which I had not done with my knee replacements and wished I had), and stayed the maximum time that Medicare would cover, 3 nights by choice, and then transferred to a skilled nursing facility where I had intensive physical and occupational therapy twice daily.  I was up and on a walker same day, ditched the walker went to a cane within two weeks, driving a car in just under a month and after a month getting around pretty good with a cane, shopping, tree/property inspections, etc.  The titanium hardware is awesome, works so smooth and the joint continues to improve in strength and function.  The trouble is that I can't fully enjoy it because I need the other hip replaced; scheduled for May. 

Good luck. I hope yours goes as well as mine has. Don

https://www.nutri-tech.com.au/downloads/seminars/regenerate-nz-feb-2020.pdf

52 minutes ago, farmerjo said:

You hear many of these speakers talk about living soils for the microbes to survive.

Yet in a lot of dry land crop farming that has only a few scattered thunderstorms in the dry season here they still stay present in soils as long as they have dead roots to feed on.

So surely the main message is don't disturb your soil or if you do,keep it to a minimum.

Am i missing something or is this the basis to regenerative successful farming.

Yes you are missing quite a bit regarding what "regenerative agriculture" is all about.  Dead roots to feed on is not enough for healthy soil biology. If that's what you have to work with, no budget for irrigation and soil building, then you really can't hope to regenerate the land you grow on. 

http://www.regenerativeagriculturedefinition.com/

20 hours ago, ireckonso said:

I think i will get some next lazada order now that you have explained it. Im not much on the scientific stuff so good to have someone on here that understands it.

I didn't write the scientific stuff, I searched it out because the new generation of reduced risk bio-pesticides interests me, I work with plant problem diagnosis and treatment everyday and I learn something every time I follow up on a question like this.  

What is even more interesting than acquiring an arsenal of pest control products, is building "high brix", "high nutrient density" biologically active soil, resulting in real plant health.  Then your plants will acquire natural resistance to pests and disease and you won't need the chemistries. 

11 hours ago, ireckonso said:

Looking for some fertilizer components on lazada and found this.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/15-ml-i555716515-s1016650547.html?spm=a2o4m.searchlistcategory.list.10.16be5d0649eMgT&search=1

It says spinosyn on the package when you zoom in but maybe the syn is for synthetic ?

You have a good eye.  That's it, a spinosad equivalent.. 

"Spinetoram is a fermentation product of Saccharopolyspora spinosa and is an analogue of the insecticide spinosad (PC code 110003; registered for application to numerous crops). Spinetoram and spinosad are considered toxicologically equivalent. Its mode of action is disruption of nicotinic/gamma amino butyric acid (GABA)-gated chloride channels."

 "The use of emulsified crop oils or methylated crop oil plus organosilicone combination products as spray adjuvants are recommended.  For resistance management purposes, the use of the same ingredient or products with the same mode of action on consecutive generations of insects should be avoided. " 
 https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/registration/fs_G-4674_01-Oct-09.pdf
 
 

On 1/22/2008 at 5:05 PM, ezzra said:

The olive tree is the oldest cultivated tree in existence and can live for thousands of years. It can survive poor soils, with little water, and its hard, thin leaves are adapted to prevent water loss, so it's an extremely hardy and forgiving tree.

Olives flourish where there is good drainage and cool winters, with hot dry summers without humidity.

 

1000s of years?  Maybe in Jericho. I've been working with them since I was 12 years old and I don't know of an olive tree in my world over 100.  This cut and paste text may apply better to a different climate.

There may be some successful growers in Thailand if they know what they are doing in creating best growing conditions and pest management, but it's not an ideal climate.  Olives did better where I grew up in an arid desert, as long as they were irrigated, infrequently.  In a less favorable environment they are susceptible to a number of pests and diseases, root rot, soft bodied scale insects, olive knot bacterial disease, peacock spot fungal disease, and the fruit is wiped out with olive fruit fly., unless controlled  I know because I get constant calls for diagnosis and treatment. 

Here's the Thai version.  No gophers, bears or coyotes.

Identification is critical.  And take note, this is an important bit of information to go along with good identification of pests vs not-a-pest:

"Keep in mind that the 95 percent of garden visitors are either helpful or harmless. Beneficial insects include ladybugs, lacewings and many others. Learn more in the article Most Bugs are Good Bugs."

Too many gardeners freak out at the first sign of an arthropod on their plants and reach for the insecticide spray. 

3 hours ago, farmerjo said:

Hi Doc,

With the products this guy sells to follow this practise.

How does it compare to chemical farming cost wise for inputs and returns.

Let's say for a soya bean crop in Thailand.

Thanks.

I don't have that kind of first hand experience to enable me to answer.  Reports I've seen and heard are that costs are less, crop quality and profitability become better as the transition is made. But it's not just about substitution of inputs. 

I have not used the Nutri-tech product line, which appears to be excellent adjuvants for soil fertility building and plant health, above and beyond the basic Albrecht mineral balancing system. 

As for cost comparisons for inputs and returns, I don't think it's that simple. Regenerative farming involves more than substitution of inputs, it involves changes in thinking and practices. See the interview with Klaas and Mary-Howell Martens in Graeme Sait's book Nutrition Rules. (free e-book when you sign up for the newsletter)  They are large-scale
organic growers in the US and talk about transitioning to nutrient dense organic farming, what it takes, costs and returns.  Like the only farmers that I know who make ends meet, they have developed niche markets and specialty crops for profitability. Natural Agriculture with their 120 rai organic farm in Chiang Mai have built their soil for key market produce to maintain 5% organic matter. They sell their organic products to resort restaurants from the north to the south.