drtreelove

"I've tried to deter snails with eggshells..."  I just read a Myth Busters article on eggshells that says this is not effective and not the same as diatomaceous earth just because the ground eggshells look the same.

" and an organic insect deterrent."  key word being "insect", which of course snails and slugs are not. May or may not be effective. 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/diatomaceous-earth-neem-65-g-i442962505-s819062085.html

https://www.learningwithexperts.com/gardening/blog/organic-slugs-snails-control

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/insects/organic-snail-control.htm

We had coral vine growing on our farm in Chiang Mai. It's beautiful but an aggressive grower. Be sure that you have the space, and can manage the maintenance. It will take over if it likes your garden and trees. 

I never had to propagate it, but the literature says seeds or tubers. 

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/vines/coral-vine/growing-coral-vines-in-gardens.htm

To member Pogust; regarding your PM to me about permaculture agroforestry. This is the pinned discussion that I thought you would be interested in. I encourage you to post your questions here, because there are other members who may contribute who have more experience with this subject than I do.  

3 minutes ago, tonray said:

Looks more like insect chewing....go out at night 2 AM - 4AM with flashlight....you might see large Snails chewing them up. The big Snails in my garden decimate everything at ground level...I have to use either raised beds or put them in rounded pots which they have a problem climbing into....

May be part of it, but look at the new growth coming out, not chewed, but severely deformed. Better close ups would help. 

The stunted and deformed new growth appears to be a fungal disease and/or nutrient deficiency problem, more so than a pest.  But I am unable to zoom in on your photos for a closer look.  There are some chunks gone out of leaves, but I don't think that is a primary problem.  Nutrient deficiencies create susceptibility to disease. 

My wife and I have grown pak kana in two locations in Thailand and in California and have not had this problem. It is one of the easiest and least problematic veggies that I have grown.  But I always go all out at soil preparation, with soil testing and complete nutrient building and balancing. 

Other, more experienced growers here may have specific information for you. But my suggestion is to address the possibility of soil borne fungal disease with an immediate drench with EM or another biological fungicide like trychoderma h. And use a COF (complete organic fertilizer) to build soil fertility.  Organic Totto has both, a high quality EM and a good bokashi fertilizer.  https://www.organictotto.com/  They are also on FB and LINE. I have no business association with this company, but I have used their excellent products. 

If you are growing commercially with a large garden, then consider contacting my friends at bonemeal dot net for soil testing and organic farming bulk materials supply. 

Here is another article:  King Calcium from Graeme Sait.

https://blog.nutri-tech.com.au/king-calcium/

18 hours ago, gk10002000 said:

There is a reason why many small scale farmers would crush up the chicken egg shells and put them in their compost or in the soil

Good point, but it takes a lot of egg shells to make a difference, and time. Agricultural lime and gypsum are cheap. 

https://www.growveg.com/guides/using-eggshells-in-the-garden/

August 29, 2014 by Permakulturnik

The importance of Calcium for health and proper functioning of the plant

Calcium is one of the elements, which are essential for plants. They need it in very large quantities – in Good soil, giving the highest value of fruits and vegetables, calcium is more than all the other necessary elements combined plants. It performs many functions in the plant (Calcium functions):

·         Regulates the absorption of other minerals by plants

·         It stimulates the correct elongation of plant cells

·         Strengthens the structure of the cell wall, which are responsible for the proper form and shape of plants

·         Participates in the process of enzymatic and hormonal

·         It helps to protect plants from heat stress

·         Protects the plant by diseases – many fungi and bacteria secretes enzymes, that attack the cell walls of plants. Strong and rich in calcium, cell walls are better able to resist the invasion of pathogens

·         Affects the quality of the fruit

·         It is needed for the proper functioning of stomata

"Stay at home" conditions may provide time for self-education and sharing of information.  

I ask because I've never seen this species.  From your photos I recognized the similarities to another species of the same genus, 'bottle tree', Brachychiton populneus, that my father had planted in the front yard of the home where I grew up. 

Brachychiton acerifolius  Flame bottle tree  Native to Australia

https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/brachychiton-acerifolius

Please post photos of entire tree, and the trunk and bark.

Where in Thailand did you see this tree?

Second one yes, mayom that got hacked, then resprouted with vigorous uprights.

People plant trees like this without consideration of how large they get, then find it necessary to mutilate them for size control.

You can possibly save this one for a year or two at least, (and preserve your luck, fame and fortune), by performing a major crown reduction pruning.  From the photo, if mine, I might make the following cuts:

Take out the largest stubbed stem all the way down.

Reduce the other two tall stems, down to the outward directed lateral branch.

Water it, let it resprout and then shape the new growth away from the house as best possible. 

This can buy you some time until new, more appropriately placed plantings can grow up. 

For the previous mayom, and any others under the utility cables, maybe buy a telescopic pole-pruner (HomePro), and/or a step ladder, and just keep it shaped down below the lines with frequent pruning.  

The first tree looks familiar, I think its a variety of guava but not sure. Maybe someone else can help with ID. 

It appears to have a sucking insect pest that is causing the leaf distortions. Aphids, or a leaf miner (tiny larva of a moth). The pest may be visible on the underside of the leaves. I don't think this is a leaf fungal disease or environmental cause. If it is a fruit tree you don't want to use a systemic insecticide, so maybe spray every week during the spring flush of growth with a botanical insect repellent. Azadirachtin (neem tree seed extract) is widely available. Home Pro or Global House garden section, or ask for ya ka maleng (insecticide) section, and 'nam sadao' (neem). Hand held pump up sprayers are available, but for one small tree you could use an ironing type spray bottle.  

Or just pick off the affected leaves to reduce the pest population, the infestation may be seasonal and temporary with the flush of new tender growth. I don't think its a killer. 

mayom reduction.pdf

On 3/19/2020 at 8:44 AM, CGW said:

I think the "Scientists" have done enough for the time being 

Nothing is 100% environmentally friendly, depends on how you classify it? your looking for the impossible, nobody said growing was easy, sometimes you have to resort to using time and labour.

You are right that there is nothing 100% environmentally friendly if you are looking, like the Grumpy one, to "attack and destroy".  "Environmentally friendly" needs a different mind-set.  There is a tremendous amount of R&D and new generation of bio-pesticides, botanical insecticides and biological fungicides. But no one product that fits all. Only one attitude that fits all - IPM (Intelligent Plant Management) We have to know our target pest/disease, the life cycle, the host plant and its vulnerabilities, and management options that can work to minimize pest pressure and plant susceptibility.  Soil fertility and water management are first considerations. 

Some organic program compatible materials (environmentally friendly) that can significantly reduce pest populations, plant and crop damage if used properly are:

Horticultural oil - smothers overwintering eggs and larvae

70% Neem oil - in-season preventive management of sucking and chewing insect pests, mites and some leaf fungal disease

B.t. (Bacillus thurengiensis) - for actively feeding young moth larvae/caterpillars. Mosquito larvae control. 

Botanical insecticides (many). Azadirachtin neem concentrate, pyrethrins (chrysanthemum flower extract), rosemary oil, clove oil, etc.

Wood vinegar - insecticide, fungicide. herbicide at stronger concentrations.

Spinosad - bioinsecticide

Insecticidal soap - contact insecticide

Herbicidal soap - contact herbicide

Copper fungicides

Biological fungicides - Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus amylolquefaciens, Streptomyces lydicus, Reynoutria sachalinensis, Trichoderma hazarianum and others.  

BIOLOGICAL FUNGICIDES (good information on how to use these)
http://ipm.uconn.edu/documents/raw2/html/836.php?aid=836

CERTIS USA is a leader in biopesticides

https://www.certisusa.com/

I took interest and looked further for information on mayom. I just found this. No wonder it is a "lucky tree".  Corona virus preventive? 

http://theindianvegan.blogspot.com/2013/03/all-about-star-gooseberry-phyllanthus.html

I don't know the second tree, but the first I believe is a very common tree called Mayom in Thailand and considered a "lucky tree". It's English common name is star gooseberry. Botanical name Phyllanthus acidus.

"Phyllanthus acidus, known as the Otaheite gooseberry, Malay gooseberry, Tahitian gooseberry, country gooseberry, star gooseberry, starberry, West India gooseberry, or simply gooseberry tree, is one of the trees with edible small yellow berries fruit in the family Phyllanthaceae."

"There are many types of lucky tree in Thailand and Thai people believe that a Mayom tree (Star Gooseberry) planted in front of the house will bring fame and success." 

As for the utility lines over the trees, it could be an issue, but needs to be evaluated.  Are you sure it is electrical service lines, or is it the telephone or Internet service or cable TV line. It makes a difference for risk of power interruption or electrical shock if the tree becomes energized.  Phone and cable are very low voltage and less risk, insulated power lines are less risk but still could become higher risk if the insulation is rubbed off. Bare electrical lines are highest risk for conduction into the tree and shorting out your power supply. Safest is to keep the tree pruned away from the lines all together, but sometimes exceptions can be made by pruning the tree for clearance to minimize contact. 

That's an easy one. I believe this is Cerbera odollam  Common names -ping pong tree, or suicide tree, teen ped nam in Thai 

https://www.thaigardendesign.com/cerbera-odollam-pong-pong-tree/  

Its a medium size evergreen tree not huge, 10 meters. It's an attractive and desirable ornamental tree with white flowers in season. The seed pods can be a curiosity, not exactly attractive, but a nuisance when they fall. You can read about the "suicide tree" characteristics on your own.

From the size of the stump in your photo, it appears that this was a mature tree.  The re-sprouts will grow vigorously with an existing root system. The problem is, that they are attached superficially to the outer growing layer of the stump. Therefore without a normal, stable attachment, as they get large and vulnerable to wind exposure, they can easily break off and fall, creating a high risk situation for property damage or personal injury.  I recommend not trying to save this tree, it will never be a good tree again for a small residential yard and it will be problematic.  Start over with a younger tree or a different species.

Remove the sprouts as they occur until the stump completely dies from lack of photosynthesis.  (It may take a couple of years of repeated sprout removal) 

Or cut and poison the stump by spraying an herbicide on the cut surfaces. (Glyphosate 24%) This works best if you re-cut the stump at a lower level and then immediately spray the cut surface. 

Or have the stump removed. - A big job for that size stump, and then you have a massive hole to fill.  

I hope that helps.  Don

1 hour ago, Lacessit said:

The face mask is to protect other people from you. Virus spread is much more curtailed if some one with the virus is coughing and sneezing into the mask, instead of projecting virus up to two metres away.

Thank you for intelligent response.  Also a face mask is regarded as a courtesy. By wearing a face mask if you absolutely have to go out public, you are showing consideration for others and not breathing in their face.  Anyone can be a carrier and not know it.  

On 3/8/2020 at 10:54 PM, Grumpy John said:

There should be some product that can attack and destroy insects and,  for that matter a product for weed destruction...one which really works.   With scientist knowing so much I am surprised we don't have the perfect chemi now! 

There are good products available, but not one quick fix that fits all pests and situations as we would like.  We have to try and identify what we are dealing with, the habits and life cycle of the pest and how best to target it with appropriate treatment/management. The best treatment is not always a product, but it can be a management method to interrupt the life cycle of the pest.  That is what Integrated Pest Management is all about. Pest control products are just tools that can be used in some situations as part of a larger management plan.  Think IPM first, with products to kill pests as a secondary choice, only in some situations. 

The Corona virus is an example, there is no cure available at the present time, only preventive management. Its the same with many agricultural pests and diseases. 

https://www2.ipm.ucanr.edu/What-is-IPM/

Sriyont, farm equipment sales and service on the road on the east side of the river in Wat Gate district. 

https://www.yanmar.com/en_th/dealerlocator/th/213294/

5 hours ago, Lacessit said:

Just wondering if mango fruit fly has any natural predators. We don't seem to have any problem with my GF's trees near Chiang Rai. We don't use any sprays or fertilisers.

Natural controls may be present, but most likely you don't have an active population near your property, from which to fly in and infest your trees. We lived in a dense mango growing area with a history of fruit fly infestations.  There are IPM guidelines available that include multiple control modalities, sanitation, bait traps and sprays, search 'mango fruit fly management".  

Finding a shop with a good range of products, and especially finding reliable advise on organic methods and materials is near impossible in Thailand. I have tried and I have asked for support on this forum for years with little success.  Instead of trying to find a shop that has it all, it is better in my opinion to define what you are looking for and search for that product or products in shops and online, Lazada and others. Most advise that is available is founded on trying to find a quick fix substitute for chemical remedies.  But an organic approach is best if it employs a full range of comprehensive best management practices, soil fertility and water management being the most important. 

Mango fruit fly kicked our ass in Chiang Mai. I had no idea first year how fast and furious that pest could come in. Second year on the bagging method proved effective, although time consuming. We had mature trees that had to be climbed for bagging. Red weaver ants held and fiercely defended the territory against climbers, but they couldn't keep up with the fruit flies. Our neighbor and part time helper was the orchard foreman for a very large mango and mixed fruit tree export oriented farm nearby. They used bagging method for fruit fly control. 

The standard chemical insecticide treatment is chlorpyrifos canopy sprays.  To find an organic program compatible substitute for this would be cost prohibitive. Organic insect pest repellents like neem azadirachtin or other botanicals would have to be sprayed every week or two at the most, because there is very little residual effectiveness. Short residual is because of biodegradable properties, which reduce environmental contamination, which make it organic. 

I don't know about mango fruit fly in this respect, but generally reducing pests and diseases is best achieved by good water management and building soil fertility with soil test based mineral and biological amendments, and other organic best management practices.  Get away from high NPK chemical fertilizers which do more harm than good and create susceptibility to pests and diseases. 

You assumption may be a little off, as is the treatment.  The condition appears to me to be signs of wounding and tree response to a bacterial infection, or more likely, a beetle borer, or clear-wing moth borer, that has invaded the tree trunk to feed and/or lay eggs which when hatched become larvae that feed on the internal tissues.

If you see flying insects around the external sites, they could be secondary (not the cause) and are attracted to the sugary alcoholic exudate. 

Does the foliar canopy appear healthy or is there branch dieback?  

Some borers are more destructive to the host tree than others. Some invade and do minimal damage, come and go. Some test the tree but don't propagate and become a major infestation.  But some adult beetles and especially their larvae do extensive boring and form galleries that cut off the sap flow between roots and foliage, eventually causing top dieback or death of the tree. Some borers introduce fungal pathogens that grow inside the tree and do major damage.

Many borer infestations are brought on by water deficit, drought stress, that makes trees vulnerable to infestations. Nutrient deficiencies can contribute to susceptibility. Be sure to manage soil and water adequately.  

I don't know the common pests of this rosewood tree. But a general treatment for borer prevention may stop the infestation. In some cases, adult beetles emerge after pupation and fly back to the same tree or nearby trees of the same species. Applying a protective insecticide barrier to the external area of the tree trunk that is being affected, will discourage beetles from further activity in that tree. Killing the adults or larvae that are already inside the tree is not practical, but preventing more activity is a very successful way to deal with it. Although mine is not a positive diagnosis, just a best guess from seeing your photos. 

This treatment is called "trunk banding" or "basal bark treatment". It involves mixing and applying by sprayer, of a solution of a strong contact and residual action insecticide (not a systemic) to the bark surface around the lower trunk where the pest activity is present. 

My choice would be a pyrethroid (synthetic chemical form of the old standard botanical insecticide, pyrethrum or pyrethrins.) Pyrethroids are not organic program compatible, but are least toxic and by method of application there is not a lot of environmental exposure. It is sprayed on the lower tree trunk only where the activity is located, and binds with the bark to provide a protective coating. It is not a foliar canopy spray. Manage to prevent heavy overspray and spills.

I would use permethrin, cypermethrin or bifenthrin.  Bifenthrin has the longest residual effectiveness. it is the active ingredient in the widely available Chaindrite Stedfast 30SC. Lotus with mosquito sprays, HomePro garden section and others. Ask for "ya ka maleng". 

Mix 100 to 150 ml per one liter of water in a hand-held pump up sprayer or backpack sprayer. Yes it needs to be a strong solution in order to get full season residual effectiveness.  Spray the tree trunk to the point of runoff. Protect yourself from skin, eye and respiratory exposure. Once on the tree and dried the area can be re-entered by people and pets and farm animals. 

https://www.toagroup.com/en/product/product-details?url=chaindrite-stedfast-30-sc

By the way, mosquito repellent sprays are weak solutions with a very short residual effectiveness, a few hours to a day at most.  

I hope this helps. Please post follow up information and photos. 

You may be aware that you have a very valuable tree of an endangered species. 

https://www.newsweek.com/2017/08/18/siamese-rosewood-tree-thailand-poachers-646904.html

14 hours ago, JungleBiker said:

 

Actually it is used to cure trees. See: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/225658140_Control_of_Phytophthora_Root_Rot_of_Avocado_With_Phosphorous_Acid

 

Quote, "A twenty per cent solution of partially neutralised phosphorous acid when injected into the trunks of seven-year-old trees affected by phytophthora root rot permitted rapid recovery of trees over a 12 month period." 

 

A popular tool for injecting avocado in Australia is shown here: 

 

 

 

Available from this company: 

http://www.chemjet.com.au/how-it-works/ 

 

However, your tree is too small to inject. Normally, small trees are protected with foliar sprays but you could start off with a soil drench and a spray on the leaves. I'm using Aliette on our avocado (in Laos). (About 650 baht/kg).  

 

 

I have heard that Agri-Fos is available in Thailand. Other products available in Thailand are Aliette and metalaxyl. 

 

This paper is relatively up to date: https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/avocados/control-phytophthora-root-rot-avocado-phosphite-review

 

Note the reference to the Pegg Wheel: https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/avocados/growing-avocados-–-pegg-wheel-controlling-phytophthora-root-rot Besides planting on a mound or ridge, a thick layer of mulch is very beneficial for avocado but keep away from the trunk. Calcium also has a fungicidal effect on phytophthora, so dolomite and gypsum are recommended (usually mixed with the soil before planting).

 

By the way, a healthy avocado tree will have white roots. If roots are not white, that is a sign of a problem.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This Pegg Wheel concept is interesting and is a good example of a comprehensive management program, including resistant species selection. 

But there are a couple of things that I strongly disagree with.  

1. the water management suggestions are opposite of what works in my experience. Root rot of various susceptible tree species is something that I deal with frequently and have for many years. Small, frequent irrigation is what keeps roots wet and predisposes root rot. Infrequent deep irrigation allows a drying out period that interrupts the disease cycle.  My father managed citrus orchards and I witnessed from a young age the successful flood irrigation program. 10 inches of water every 10 days. Drip systems are common cause for root rot when programed for multiple waterings per week. Soil conditions and drainage has to be taken into account. But the principle is that  if you keep roots wet, certain tree species will develop root rot.  

2. Applying metalaxyl fungicide at planting will be contrary to organic growing principles and will kill off beneficial soil biology.  I would instead apply a biological fungicide that complements healthy soil life. 

My application of mefanoxam is a calculated exception to save an infected tree. It is applied around the base of the trunk for uptake by adventitious roots and not throughout the root zone. It is an effective curative systemic fungicide specific for Phytophthora infections. 

11 hours ago, drtreelove said:

I wish I could believe that, but in fact there are some factors that are not discussed in the research that are practical considerations in the field. There is often a big difference in what is reported from controlled scientific research from what is actual experience in field conditions.  I have been using these materials for some years, Aliette for 30 years and the others for at least 15 years.  (I have the phosphorous acid fungicide  in my pickup right now,, used some yesterday and will use the balance today. I have 25 chemjet injectors, and other injection equipment, Aliette, Thiophanate Methyl, Mefenoxam and a range of biological fungicides and botanical insecticides. )

 

The big issues that are not presented in the paper, are that

1. Aliette and some other chemical fungicides will rapidly develop resistance by the target pathogens and become ineffective after a season or two of applications. So don't count on ongoing control with hard chemistry.  If you are growing avocados or citrus, you should know and use best management practices and preventive measures for crown rot, and not have to rely on chemical fungicides.

 

2. By the time you know that your tree has P. cinnamomi, (stem discoloration, bleeding cankers, foliar dieback) there has been a considerable amount of destruction of the growing layer and conductive tissue, throughout a major portion of the root crown and lower trunk circumference. This necrotic tissue cannot regenerate. So even if you stop the advance of the disease, there has been irreparable damage. The fungicide does not cure or regenerate this damaged tissue, no matter how much you spray or inject, it can only prevent or suppress the advance of the disease. 

 

The only reason that I can think of for why you are relying on the hard chemistry, is that you have planted in poor conditions or have not practiced best management and are now desperately trying to counter the effects of inevitable disease progression. This is the reason that I have so many customers, poor soil and water management and now a desperate attempt at cure of advanced conditions. Many advanced conditions I cannot help, I have to refuse as incurable. 

 

So by far the best approach is to get the soil and water management right from the beginning, and use biological fungicides and systemic phosphorous acid fungicide as preventive, not curative. Use Calcium and other mineral nutrients along with complete nutrition, not with isolated curative expectations. It's the complete nutrition package and balance that creates soil and plant health. Don

 

 

Hands on today, not Thailand but Scotts Valley California, near San Francisco and Silicon Valley. 

Reliant is an American brand of phosphite systemic fungicide as being discussed here.  We are using it for treatment of native oak trees to prevent Sudden Oak Death syndrome (Phytophthora ramorum).  This is a different species of water-mold from the Phythopthora cinnamomi that causes avocado crown rot, but the symptoms are similar and the treatment has similar action against the pathogen.

My helper is applying the fungicide with ChemJet injectors for one tree.  The last photo is a basal bark spray with the fungicide mixed with a bark penetrating surfactant, PentraBark, for absorption through the bark into the conductive tissue of the tree for uptake and translocation. The fungicide helps builds tree resistance to disease. The white material on the soil surface is a mixed soil amendment application ready for incorporation, including oyster shell lime and ag gypsum. 

These are oak trees that are not infected, it is a preventive treatment.  If I were dealing with an infected tree, P. ramorum or P. cinnamomi, I would first of all not take on an advanced disease condition. Because I know from experience that it is futile when there has been extensive tissue destruction from the pathogen. But if I get called for a tree in early stage of infection, with less than 10% of the trunk circumference affected with bleeding cankers, I would recommend a two year program of repeated treatments, spring and fall. Phosphite fungicide applications,  Subdue (mefenoxam) soil drench for root uptake, Aliette fungicide foliar spray application, (but only once or twice due to resistance forming). I would also sample the soil for lab analysis of nutrient deficiencies and apply prescription amendments. And I might apply a foliar nutrient solution (foliar fertilization). 

But this is the Silicon Valley economy with high value real estate and money to keep beloved native oaks healthy. 

43 minutes ago, JungleBiker said:

 

Actually it is used to cure trees. See: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/225658140_Control_of_Phytophthora_Root_Rot_of_Avocado_With_Phosphorous_Acid

 

Quote, "A twenty per cent solution of partially neutralised phosphorous acid when injected into the trunks of seven-year-old trees affected by phytophthora root rot permitted rapid recovery of trees over a 12 month period." 

 

A popular tool for injecting avocado in Australia is shown here: 

 

 

 

Available from this company: 

http://www.chemjet.com.au/how-it-works/ 

 

However, your tree is too small to inject. Normally, small trees are protected with foliar sprays but you could start off with a soil drench and a spray on the leaves. I'm using Aliette on our avocado (in Laos). (About 650 baht/kg).  

 

 

I have heard that Agri-Fos is available in Thailand. Other products available in Thailand are Aliette and metalaxyl. 

 

This paper is relatively up to date: https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/avocados/control-phytophthora-root-rot-avocado-phosphite-review

 

Note the reference to the Pegg Wheel: https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/avocados/growing-avocados-–-pegg-wheel-controlling-phytophthora-root-rot Besides planting on a mound or ridge, a thick layer of mulch is very beneficial for avocado but keep away from the trunk. Calcium also has a fungicidal effect on phytophthora, so dolomite and gypsum are recommended (usually mixed with the soil before planting).

 

By the way, a healthy avocado tree will have white roots. If roots are not white, that is a sign of a problem.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wish I could believe that, but in fact there are some factors that are not discussed in the research that are practical considerations in the field. There is often a big difference in what is reported from controlled scientific research from what is actual experience in field conditions.  I have been using these materials for some years, Aliette for 30 years and the others for at least 15 years.  (I have the phosphorous acid fungicide  in my pickup right now,, used some yesterday and will use the balance today. I have 25 chemjet injectors, and other injection equipment, Aliette, Thiophanate Methyl, Mefenoxam and a range of biological fungicides and botanical insecticides. )

The big issues that are not presented in the paper, are that

1. Aliette and some other chemical fungicides will rapidly develop resistance by the target pathogens and become ineffective after a season or two of applications. So don't count on ongoing control with hard chemistry.  If you are growing avocados or citrus, you should know and use best management practices and preventive measures for crown rot, and not have to rely on chemical fungicides.

2. By the time you know that your tree has P. cinnamomi, (stem discoloration, bleeding cankers, foliar dieback) there has been a considerable amount of destruction of the growing layer and conductive tissue, throughout a major portion of the root crown and lower trunk circumference. This necrotic tissue cannot regenerate. So even if you stop the advance of the disease, there has been irreparable damage. The fungicide does not cure or regenerate this damaged tissue, no matter how much you spray or inject, it can only prevent or suppress the advance of the disease. 

The only reason that I can think of for why you are relying on the hard chemistry, is that you have planted in poor conditions or have not practiced best management and are now desperately trying to counter the effects of inevitable disease progression. This is the reason that I have so many customers, poor soil and water management and now a desperate attempt at cure of advanced conditions. Many advanced conditions I cannot help, I have to refuse as incurable. 

So by far the best approach is to get the soil and water management right from the beginning, and use biological fungicides and systemic phosphorous acid fungicide as preventive, not curative. Use Calcium and other mineral nutrients along with complete nutrition, not with isolated curative expectations. It's the complete nutrition package and balance that creates soil and plant health. Don