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drtreelove
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Posts posted by drtreelove
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Faulty Crossing? Is that a sequel to Faulty Towers? Although this one is no joke.
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My first wife died of lung cancer. She was never a cigarette smoker but she was a meditator and sat for one to two hours a day with heavy incense smoke, often in a closed room. That's one way to achieve transcendence.
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My personal experience is that the air is much better, cleaner and cooler at the higher elevations. At least it was when we lived in CM between 2002 and 2010; I regularly went mountain biking and hiking at the summit of Doi Pui, in the area above Bhuping Palace, Wat Sanku to the forestry checkpoint kiosk to the actual summit, the area where the visitor center and camping site is now, CMU Site A coffee farm and especially Site B where there are cabins to rent. My wife and I would rent an A-frame cabin for a few days to get up and out of the smog. It was rustic, no electricity, sleeping pads and mosquito nets but bring your own bedding and food, for 600 a night at that time.
There are hiking or mt bike trails all over the mountain, cross country out to Mae Rim, from the Khun Chang Kian Hmong village down to the park headquarters or Monthathan falls, or from Doi Pui Mhong Village down to the Samoeng-Hang Dong road. Exploring, exercising in the great outdoors and breathing clean, cool air for awhile was really the only way I could have handled Chiang Mai and it's gross polluters for as long as I did.
https://mychiangmaitour.com/doisuthep-pui_national_park/
https://www.tourismthailand.org/Attraction/Doi-Luang-Chiang-Dao--3986
Doi Inthanon is even higher (the summit is the highest point in Thailand) and a nice day trip, and there are accomodations there too. And then there is the whole of the mountainous north to explore.
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You may get more feedback by posting this on the Food or especially Health forum.
If you think you or loved one have contacted a parasite or disease organism, seek medical help right away. Sheryll on the Health forum will help direct you to a specialist in your geographical area.
If it's general information you want and don't get the specific answer to your question, the safest personal health policy I believe is don't eat raw or undercooked seafood or other meats, wash clean all food, utensils, cutting boards and countertops.
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On 3/13/2019 at 7:53 AM, notagain said:
Thanks again Notagain, and Grollies for the OP. I thoroughly read this paper again today. It's a Masterpiece, in my opinion. The beauty of it is in the comprehensive consideration of so many aspects of the disease, the insect vector, the various control options including cultural/growing condtions, biocontrols, and OMRI listed biopesticides. The authors are aware of some of the most recent biopesticide developments, and also include discussion of biostimulants, humic substances, microbial inoculants, seaweed extracts, microntrients, nanoparticles (? whew!), impacts from environmental stress, and development of HLB resistant varieties. This paper could/should be a guideline for how to comprehensively view modern organic land care and crop management, not only HLB.
Here's my favorite, the master statement from the conclusion:
"It is paramount that a grower applies many control prac-tices simultaneously to get the most effect from each. IPM acts synergistically; the results of the combined efforts will be better than the sum of each part added individually"
https://www.organic-center.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/HLB_FarmerGuide.pdf
And did you see this page: https://www.organic-center.org/who-we-are/meet-our-scientists/
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40 minutes ago, oldcarguy said:
My phone that has LINE on it now
is a Nexus 6 , I want to switch it to a Motorola E5:,
Going back to the seller will not work as I got the E5 from TMobile USA and no one ever heard of LINE here !
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app
My wife just lost all her chats, photos etc but saved the contacts in a phone switch. After the fact, our daughter came around, who is more LINE savvy, and told us that there is a LINE back up function that you have to do first.
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On 3/13/2019 at 7:53 AM, notagain said:
Read This
That's an amazing paper. thanks.
I was out of touch and didn't know about the biological controls that have been explored. I'm not sure this could be achieved without a big gov backed program. Unless its a very large orchard or community cooperative, biological control agents can get wiped out by overspray from a neighboring farm.
I am pesimistic about practicality of some of the excellent program components and availability for Thailand. Most of the sophisticated new biopesticide materials are not available here. And those that are may not get enough percentage of control to satisfy local growers.
I like this:
-The important takeaway message from these studies and
publications is that:
-Insecticides approved for organic production use can
work almost as well as standard synthetic insecticides
but provide control for a shorter period.
-OMRI approved insecticides should be applied in
rotation and diligently in response to insect scouting
and sampling counts that meet action thresholds;
this could mean every 2 weeks.
-OMRI approved horticultural oils not only provided
strong control (80% adult mortality in some studies)
when used alone but can increase adult ACP mortality
to 97% when combined with other products such
as M-Pede or Grandevo.
(M-Pede is a commercial brand of insecticidal soap.)
Combine with horticultural oil is something I didn't mention before but I've used this tank mix for other pest issues with great success.
This paper indicates that insecticide and oil mix has longer residual than botanicals or soap alone. And this combo may be the most affordable. 97%, can't touch that with anything else.
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The one thing I don't buy with some of this thinking, is the old "which comes first" scenario, in this case it's the bacterium or the psyllid. This article seems to indicate that the plant is weakened by the bacterial infection and then the infestation by the psyllid occurs after the fact. I don't think so.
I'm not a scientist, just an old tree worker since I was a kid, evolved over the years into tree doctor, trying to figure out the nitty gritty of what I'm working with. Unless we're talking about an occult phenomenon, or some science that I don't yet understand, for a bacterial disease to be present in plant tissues, it would have had to have a method of entry, a path of introduction; it doesn't just manifest out of nowhere. Spores can be blown in the wind and rain, honey bees can introduce through flowers (fireblight), wounding can open a path of entry, or sometimes spores can land on bark tissues and create lesions that progress into systemic infections (bacterial cankers).
From what I've read from University of Florida and U California, from China and other research, it's been pretty well established that the Asian citrus psyllid is the primary vector of the HLB bacteria. It's a sucking insect that feeds on infected plants and then flies and feeds on uninfected plants where it inserts mouth parts and fluids and through that path of entry introduces the bacterium into the new plant. As far as I know, no other path of entry has been established. Tell me if I'm wrong.
The the susceptibility of the plant to infestation as well as for the bacterium to thrive, is where I join in the notion that growing conditions, soil and water management are fundamental issues. Detrimental practices also come into play, like years of hard chemistry applications in the form of chemical pesticides and high NPK fertlizers that disrupt soil health and the processes of nutrient assimilation.
It takes time and money to rebuild soil health after detrimental practices are discontinued. From my experience, with the "high nutrient density" approach (Albrecht school), with soil testing, prescribed mineral and biological amendments, building soil organic matter, mulching and intellilgent water management, some positive results will be seen right away, but it really starts to kick in with best results in about two years. That's when you start to see a reall drop off in pest and disease incidence, due to building of plant resistance.
If you are committed to a comprehensive organic program, no hard chemistry pesticides or fertilizers, intelligent soil and water management and IPM, during that two year period of time, it is especially important to keep up with a preventive spray program to deter the feeding by the disease vector, the ACP. Unfortunately, soft chemistry botanical insect pest repellents don't have a long residual effectiveness. This means spraying neem or another botanical will have to be done every two weeks, or every week during high risk periods of the pest life cycle. But it makes an organic program time consuming and expensive.
Azadirachtin (neem extract) concentrates are available, and are effective as a repellent, feeding and reproductive disruptor, but they are not cheap, especially with two week interval applications. Then there is wood vinegar and some other botanicals available, with which i don't have much experience. Aromatic oils, rosemary, clove, lemon grass, etc, some which you can make yourself, may be effective. They would be appropriate for citrus because the residual oils and odors would not be as much of an issue as it is with produce or thin skinned fruits that would have to be washed.
In my opinion, the spraying or injection of anti-biotics is unnecessary for HLB, unless it is ever proved that the bacterium enter through the flowers or by any other path than the psyllid feeding. If you can keep the psyllids off the plants and from feeding, then there will be no bacteria in or on the plant to make anti-biotics an appropriate method of control.
This approach that I've suggested is concerned with prevention, for plants not yet infected. Pro-active vs reactive. The article that Grollies presented was oriented to curing active infections and declining/dying plants. Thats a tall order and something I have not been involved with. But I like their approach of stopping detrimental practices and building soil health as a primary concerns for rebuilding plant health. A proprietary curative formula? I guess everybody has to have something to sell in order to make ends meet.
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Thanks for that. I support this concept. I was contacted by a forum member from Malaysia who has just completed 15 years of field work in China along the same lines, and they came to similar conclusions and have developed a similar successful program.
The ag world is slowly but surely waking up to the fundamental truth, that soil health is the foundation of plant health. And rejecting the falsehood of the powerful chemical fertilzer industry that since the second world war has funded and dominated university soil science. Old information is being revived and noticed, particularly the work of Dr William Albrecht, and being carried into mainstream ag practices now by modern proponents of high nutrient density growing, like Neal Kinsey, the awesome worldwide work of Australian Graeme Sait (Nutrition Rules, Nutrition Matters), Steve Solomon (The Intelligent Gardener), who took much of his material from my soils guru (thanks to Rice 555 who tipped me to his work and book on this forum about 10 years ago), Michael Astera (The Ideal Soil, A Handbook for the New Agriculture). I used his mineral balancing system for my customers and my own garden and was seeing good results, so I went all-in on trusting his position that with balanced mineralization along with building organic matter content and active beneficial soil biology, that plant resistance to pests and diseases would be enhanced and so much pesticide use, including botanicals, would not be needed. It worked in my own garden and for my customers.
i grew up in Arizona with a father who was a Univerity of California educated horticulturist. Apart from his work as a public parks planner, he managed citrus orchards. As a kid I hung out and played in the groves, so I inherited knowledge of the management practices as I grew into a tree care specialist myself. The orange and grapefruit trees were planted on well placed centers that allowed a full foliar canopy all the way to the ground, this shaded the soil surface and preserved soil moisture. Along with letting the leaf litter remain as mulch, it also suppressed weed growth.
They deep flood-irrigated every 10 days with up to 10 inches of water column, high burms that held the irrigation water as it percolated deep into the soil profile. They fertilized with steer manure from the big feedlots outside of Phoenix, then lightly disced in between the trees but never under the driplines, and i never saw them spray pesticides or herbicides. But they did harvest bumper crops of big sweet fruit from the full foliar canopies of the healthiest citrus I've ever seen.
I started my weekend pruning career at 12 years old on citrus trees, just pruning out dead wood and light thinning. I will never forget the irrigation. - For a kid in the hot summer desert sun, 10 inches of water was heaven, we skim-boarded and splashed around and had a great time, then rested under the private spaces and cool micro-climate of the citrus canopies. All this taught me alot about tree care before i ever knew I would make a life of it. Drip irrigation? Intense tillage and herbicides and chemical ferts? Give me a break, no wonder the trees are susceptible and sick!
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On 3/9/2019 at 5:58 PM, xtrnuno41 said:
Any insecticide is poison, so can effect ALL living creatures.
Hog wash ! you have no idea what you are talking about. There are many "soft chemistry" materials classified as "insecticides" that are far from harmful to "all living creatures".. There are long standing botanical pesticides that have been used in organic gardening and farming for decades, and there is a whole new generation of bio-insecticides and biological fungicides that are derived from naturally occuring botanical extracts, benefical bacteria and fungi and other plant pest control substances. And also, there are methods of application that are specific and targeted and don't contaminate the larger environment or food products.
Here's a few available in the US with OMRI listing, with some available in Thailand under different names. Read the product descriptions and get an education.
INSECTICIDES:
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/
https://www.domyown.com/monterey-70-neem-oil-p-2841.html
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/azamax-azadirachtin/
https://www.planetnatural.com/neem-benefits/
Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests (not plants) like aphids, thrips, whitefly, spider mites, mealybugs, root aphids and more!
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/botanigard-es-insecticide/
https://www.domyown.com/bioceres-wp-p-17144.html
Metarhizium anisopliae is a naturally occurring fungus — not genetically modified — found in soils worldwide. Once the spores come in contact with susceptible insects they penetrate the cuticle or exoskeleton and begin to grow inside, causing the insect to die.
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/met52-ec/
https://www.novozymes.com/en/advance-your-business/agriculture/crop-production/crop-production-met52
https://www.domyown.com/foxfarm-bush-doctor-force-of-nature-miticide-p-17475.html
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/monterey-garden-insect-spray-spinosad/
https://www.domyown.com/bonide-all-seasons-horticultural-spray-oil-p-1525.html
https://www.domyown.com/bonide-insecticidal-soap-rtu-p-1667.html
https://www.domyown.com/evergreen-pyrethrum-concentrate-p-1875.html
https://www.domyown.com/monterey-bt-insecticide-p-2821.html
https://www.domyown.com/essentria-general-household-spray-p-1957.html
https://www.domyown.com/ecovia-ec-p-9660.html
You probably won't find Thai pest control companies using these, so it's best to do your own.
What the more resonsible and trained PC operator's here use for outdoor perimeter spraying to keep down ants, cockroaches, centipedes etc, and for indoor base board spraying for ants and cockroaches, is usually pyrethroids, like cypermethrin. This is low toxicity for mammals, with re-entry designated for as soon as the material dries. Cats are most sensitive to pyrethroids but it takes a relatively high concentration to affect a cat, not at the low concentrations used for pest control. The material is so dilute if mixed according to product label rates, that it is not going to cause any negative effects or poisoned pets. Except, as others have pointed out, most hard chemistry pesticides are extremely toxic to fish and other aquatic life. Foliar sprays should take into account and avoid pollinator foraging periods. honeybees.
There are some PC operators who spray the whole garden and not just the targeted ant trails and common entry points, and some that still use older generation toxic pesticides like organophosphates and carbamates. Some of those can make you or your dog sick with direct exposure.
Termite control through the underground closed systems are usually with fipronil or fenucarb. "Closed system" is the key term, these should not be sprayed in an open environment, but some PC operators may do so. One PCO in Chiang Mai, when I asked what he was using, proudly showed me his fenucarb training certificate and appeared very responsible about his work and avoiding environmental contamination.
I don't know it all but I do have some experience and extensive training and licensing from Calfornia, one of the most strict jurisdictions. You can forward questions or copy of PCO proposal and materials and I will be happy to review and comment to the best of my abilitiy.
Home Pro has some sweet little plastic hand-held pump up sprayers, white with green top, and the yellow with blue is really nice, and they have some organic program compatible insecticides, wood vinegar and citronella and neem. I keep the yellow one with eucalyptus and citronella extracts for outdoor mosquito repellent spraying around doors and windows. I just started growing some lemon grass to make my own. And the clear white sprayer to mix Chaindrite Stefast (bifenthrin a pyrethroid) for monthly outdoor barrier sprays for ant trails, cockroach and centipede home entry points, doorway thresholds. I keep a can of Chaindrite Crack and Crevice for spot spraying. Most of our pest control is accomplished with cleanliness, sanitation and exclusion, fully screened and pestering my family to keep doors and windows closed. We have big water monitor lizards that come around, but thats another catergory.
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We have one of these plants in our yard, planted in the ground for about two years. My wife purchased it at a local plant nursery. It's a beauty for sure, I love it, it blooms all year. The flowers on ours have a faint fragrance, not powerful like plumeria or gardenia. It's so delicate and pretty and easy to care for. Ours is in sun only part of the day and more shade is developing as the trees grow up, but the water jasmine keeps on growing and blooming.
i wasn't familiar with it before my wife brought it home. and I'd never seen it as a bonsai or large shrub like in the links you provided. If it's adaptable as a bonsai i think it would be fine in a pot, maybe upgrade and root prune every couple of years.
Ours grew up over a meter in height and didnt' have sizeable girth of stems to support itself. It would bend over to the ground with water weight and i was afraid stems would break. So I reluctantly did a 15 -20% crown reduction, drop-crotch pruning to take some height and weight off. I expected it would take some time to recover and start flowering again. But no, it put out new growth and flowers within two or three weeks, and keeps on going.
It has a tendancy to develop interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the veins), even though I use a balanced mineralized COF (complete organic fertilizer), but that's largely due to our alkaline soil and water that interferes with micronutrient uptake. I am working on correcting that. In a pot you would have more control, maybe, if you know how to manage that kind of issue. Test your water ph and use bottled water if you have to. I just bought some peat moss to use as mulch for that plant and a gardenia. I'm starting to use some vinegar once a month in fertigation with our pH 8.0 water, and I'm looking to alter my homemade COF with less calcium and more sulfur.
As for mosquitos, I haven't noticed that. But then we get them without any attractant needed, with large standing bodies of water near by. Thank God for the bat colony that feeds in mass every evening and keeps the numbers down.
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Not my area of expertise, but my wife is a real estate agent and I've seen how she works. Theoretically, you go to the Provincial Land Office with chanote in hand and make an enquiry. But depending on how busy that department is, and if your agent is a regular or not, you may be in for a long wait, unless you have a connection inside. So you often need an "expediter".
For serious deals in the works she has an associate who is an attorney for a major bank main office, property financing department, who gives her bank repo properties to list for sale. He moonlights and helps her with legal and financial issues for other deals. He's on her side and gets the chanote cleared before they do much of anything. I don't know exactly his process on that. I think he's on speed dial with someone on the inside.
But when she is just deciding whether to accept a listing or not and needs to check on a chanote and legit ownership and encumberances, and she needs it right away, she doesn't always use her bank attorney friend. She usually doesn't want to take me along for this, she says it will cost her more, but I've been a couple of times. There is a side street next to the local land office with a row of food stalls. There will usually be one or two shady looking lawyers/fixers sitting there drinking/eating/ talking. Or if not, she rings one to meet her there and they show up within a half hour or so. She chats them up, hands them the documents and I think a brown note or two in an envelope. He goes around the corner into the office and comes back out in about 20 minutes with the info.
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Mike thanks for revealing the bit about the gardener and the 15-15-15, it confirms my suspicion. It is something that many growers just don't get, especially those who are working with old information and are not keeping up on the new agriculture. Because it's deceiving, high NPK gets good growth response, but at the expense of throwing off the soil mineral and biological balance, depleting other nutrients that aren't recognized and are not replenished, but which are important for plant resistance to pests and disease. The high salts dessicate roots, which increases water stress, which invites pest pressure. The harsh chemicals negatively affect beneficial soil biology that is so important for assimilation of nutrients and defense against soil borne pathogens. You think green is good and you're doing something right, and it's cheap, but then you wake up and your plants are covered in pests. And neem doesn't work and you scramble to find something stronger to kill them. Its a viscious cycle, and the reason for so much unneccesary pesticide use and food contamination.
It's not just my idea, here is an interview that demonstrates state-of-the-art agronomy and the preventive approach that focuses on soil health as the first line of management:
"There is no doubt about it. The mismanagement of nitrogen is the biggest player. If you want pests and disease, just start pouring on the nitrogen. Growers put too much importance on this mineral. My most successful growers focus upon having their nitrogen as low as possible."
https://blog.nutri-tech.com.au/interview-with-a-master-agronomist-stephan-timmermans/
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Here's a couple of other new generation biopesticide options that are now available in Thailand:
Through the links to US sources you can read the product descriptions. And I will attached some pics of products that I took in an ag shop in Chiang Mai.
For the foliar pests I would go with the Beauveria, for soil and compost grubs including coconut rhinoceros beetle, I would use the Metarhizium (green muscaridine fungus).
This is a new and rapidly developing product catergory. Those who use "pesticides" as a dirty word across the board should take note and get educated in new environmentally friendly and sustaninable biopesticide technologies being developed due to popular demand and a huge potential market.
Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests (not plants) like aphids, thrips, whitefly, spider mites, mealybugs, root aphids and more!
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/botanigard-es-insecticide/
https://www.domyown.com/bioceres-wp-p-17144.html
Metarhizium anisopliae is a naturally occurring fungus — not genetically modified — found in soils worldwide. Once the spores come in contact with susceptible insects they penetrate the cuticle or exoskeleton and begin to grow inside, causing the insect to die.
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/met52-ec/
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8 hours ago, moe666 said:
yes Dr. Don on Suk 23 you can google him my last phone number for office is 022580350
When i was looking last year, I was told that Dr Don passed away.
I highly recommend Mark Leoni and his physical therapy team. He is an American expat trained and experienced in the US, practicing here for many years. He is highly professional and effective. His is not a straight chiropractic, quick fix adjustment approach, but a thorough assessment and comprehensive treatment program. And he refers to medical doctors and hospital labs when appropriate.
His office is in gated MooBan 5 minutes walk from OnNut BTS, or you can park on the street at the office.
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I have seen insecticidal soap at a specialty organic farm shop, but its not widely available. You can make your own. Here is one article. Be sure to note the type of soap recommended. And even though it is "organic" program compatible, protect your eyes and use conservatively, target active pests only, don't spra the whole frikkin garden. ????
https://www.hortmag.com/weekly-tips/pests-diseases/mix-your-own-insecticidal-soap-for-garden-pests
Standard personal protection, even with bio-pesticides, is long sleeve shirt and long pants, shoes/boots and socks, chemical resistant gloves and eye protection. Shower after application.
Wood vinegar is a more widely available organic program pesticide here. My local Home Pro had two brands on the shelf in the garden section last week when I was buying molasses to brew some EM. In high concentrations it a weed killer, so take note of mixing rates and use conservatively.
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My wife is an agent with a major brokerage in Bangkok. They have listings in the locations you mention. I'll PM you with contact information.
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It appears to be "soft-bodied scale", a sucking insect pest. But many of the adults look like they have been parasitized, holes in the body and drying up. So you may have mini-wasps ovipositing and working on your behalf.
It looks like there are a lot of crawlers present, hordes of smaller white nymphs looking for a spot to insert piercing sucking mouth parts and settle in for the duration. They will not be subject to the parasitoid yet. A summer oil, 1% hort oil will smother them and not burn foliage like 2% dormant spray might. Insecticidal soap will kill them on contact. Maybe wood vinegar, but I haven't used it.
The adult scale insects are protected by a waxy coating, something like their cousins mealybugs, so contact sprays are not effective, only in the "crawler" or immature stage. Neem or other botanicals are good as repellent, for prevention but not for this kind of advanced activity. Hosing them off doesn't work as well with scale as it does with mealybugs.
Soft bodied scale are often predominant in more shaded areas of the foliar canopy, but that can vary. If so, you can possibly prune out the most infested branches to cut down on numbers, and thin the canopy for more air and light circulation. I have found this very effective with citrus.
Avoid high NPK chemical fertilizers, especially with Nitrogen value over 10%, which are a magnet for pests. Use slow release, COF (complete organic fertilizer) and build soil organic matter and humus. Good soil fertility and water management enhances plant resistance to pests and diseases. Unfortunately the new generation mineralized COF's with beneficial microbial inoculants, that are so widely available in the US, Europe and Australia now, haven't caught on in Thailand. So you have to try to put together your own program. Good compost, aged manure, mulching and EM or compost tea may be the best you can do. Bat guano, worm castings and other organic fertilizer are available.
Now you know what can happen, and the early spring timing, next year you can be better prepared to start a preventive program and early intervention. Start close inspections/monitoring daily or at least weekly in January-February. Look for scale crawlers, aphids, caterpillars.
Hope that helps, Don
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I'll ask my friend; he grows wild when he sees it ????
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7 hours ago, Jane Dough said:
There is nothing sensational about this headline at all. It just states the facts as ascertained from the CMN report. There was no word of any witnesses.
Rooster
Damage to the poor tree, was sensational to me ????
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On 2/14/2019 at 12:29 PM, drtreelove said:
Arjen is right that you could use a fresh made hole to stem inject a systemic insecticide.
Further afterthought: you would need to apply injection material immediately after making the hole while the conductive vessels were still viable for absorption. If you waited until the tissues dried out the material would not be taken up effectively.
My choice as least invasive, over gouging a huge hole in the trunk to chase an adult beetle or weevil larvae, would be to shoot a spot spray of Chaindrite Crack and Crevice deep in the hole with the long, thin nozzle that comes with the aerosol can. The cypermethrin and bifenthrin active ingredients are low toxicity and with this method there would be almost no environmental or applicator personal exposure.
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Maybe Cooked can help with tips on mixing a solution, what concentration is effective for what plants and pests. And what is the residual effectiveness, same as most botanical biopesticides, a week or two, or longer?
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2 hours ago, kickstart said:TV's Cooked has written about wood vinegar a few times, and I think it more readily available than Neem Oil.
But, not certain if it has the same effect ? my neighbor used it on some melons to some effect, brought it locally too.
Yes thanks for reminding me about Cooked's wood vinegar recommendation. I haven't use it myself but a Thai organic gardener I know in Mae Taeng north of Chiang Mai makes a bio-pesticide home brew with wood vinegar and ta-kite (lemongrass) steeped for a couple of weeks, for his lettuce and other veggies production.
It's on the shelf at many garden shops in Thailand, including HomePro in the fertilizer/pesticide section.
Its not listed on OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) or NOP (National Organic Production) standards as far as i could determine, but maybe because it's not well known or used much in the US. I just did a search and attached is the most informative article I found. Check it out and be sure to read down to the 'Comparing Wood Vinegars' section and the caution about product quality and tar.
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Kickstart always has good tips for product sourcing and equipment.
I might add: This product is available online and on the shelf in Chiang Mai ag shops, not sure about Korat.
https://www.thaineem.co.th/product/17/thai-neem-no-111-neem-seed-extract-1000-cc
it's only 0.1% azadirachtin, but may be adequate for preventive protection without a heavy infestation in progress.
I used to buy a different, higher % aza product from India that was on the shelf at Limsakdakul in Chiang Mai.
Neem oil is a different thing and can be used for prevention of some fungal pathogens as well as arthropod pests, whereas azadirachtin concentrate products are pest preventive only and not fungicidal. I have not found neem oil products in Thailand. If you do please let me know.
Be aware that many people get disappointed in "trying" neem products, because they expect it to perform as a substitute for chemical insecticides, use it once and think it doesn't work. It's a totally different approach and is most effective as one component in a comprehensive plant health care and IPM program.
Even though neem products are classed as a "...cide", they are not so much a killer as they are a repellent, reproductive disruptor and anti-feedant. And they have short residual effectiveness compared to hard chemistry insecticides like pyrethroids and neonicotinoids. and nastier old generation products that only need one or two applications for knock down. Aza needs to be repeat sprayed every two weeks for prevention during a susceptible period, or even shorter intervals at least weekly to get any kind of active infestation under control. Therefore you really have to be committed to organic program and willing and able to afford the time and expense of this method.
From my experience neem products are very effective as a component of intelligent plant management. If you really know your plants and what pests they are susceptible to getting infested with each year, and use the product proactively by getting the repellant action in place early and not waiting until you are dealing with an active infestation. Biopesticides are useful and effective if used along with good soil fertility building and avoiding high NPK fertilizers that create susceptible conditions, and good water management, compatible plantings that require similar growing conditions, companion plantings, mulching, mineral and biological amendments, and enhancing of soil biology health. These factors help build plant resistance to disease and pests and therefore reduce the need for pest control.
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Rolled Oats
in Health and Medicine
Posted · Edited by drtreelove
Oatmeal lover since breakfasts with father as a kid. Don't nuke - Too Yin, devitalizes. I boil rolled oats for 20 mins with pinch of sea salt - Yang (if you know traditional Chinese dietary principles). Quick oats for 5 mins, Instant is easy but too small and oxidized. I mix raisins and nuts only, maybe banana, no sugar or milk, and chew thoroughly to insalivate, helps full digestibility. Frequent breakfast, carried me through over 40 years of intensely athletic big tree work, sports and martial arts life style. 72 and still kicking. Well, still alive and somewhat mobile anyway.