I built a partition wall with AAC blocks (7.5 cm + render) and like to install a door frame there.

 

The frame I bought is balau wood and U-shaped without a sill at the bottom. The wall opening is approx. 2cm wider than the actual frame.

 

I'm not entirely sure how to go about this. Especially about securing the frame to the wall and how to fasten (screws?) it in an inconspicuous way. I don't intend to paint the frame, merely treating it with an oil-based coating.

 

Any practical tips are welcome, as there is not a lot material out there for this type of frame and wall in combination.

 

Never use plastic plugs on AAC--the metal ones are needed. And even then the small ones are not allowed to stick out past the AAC blocks more than 10mm which is not really enough for a door frame. Also note these plugs have virtually no holding power when pulled outward. You can easily finger pull them out. This is a problem when a door frame wishes to bow in. They are only designed for lateral pulling (up/down/left/right).

 

Other countries often secure door frames to AAC using thick, long 100mm masonry type screws. But when I see them do it in Thailand they just position the door frame in the opening, then fill the gap around it with mortar.

 

Edited January 22, 20197 yr by canopy

2 ways out.

1. Get 10mm render done each side and then fix door frame with rawlplug & countersink screws, fill counter with matching wood filler.

 

2. Get 75mm x 20mm piece of treated hardwood fixed to one wall side fixed with rawlplug & countersink screws then fix door frame to other wall side with rawlplug & countersink screws then other frame to wood, finishing with suitable filler.

There's always more than one way to skin a cat.

 

Plenty of ideas on you tube. Won't recommend any myself but if you look at a few you might get a few ideas about what to do and what not to do.

 

 

An example of what not to do in another DIY job.

 

 

 

With aac blocks I liked to fix all my frames with the straps.

if you have  sufficent reveal left then just screw 3 ot 4 down each leg then simple fix into the reveal.

If you are prepared for a bit of patching you can bend it around the corner. Therafter you can line the reveal with timber ot replaster.

 

Fir a gappy frame/reveal you must fit wedge packers

And with a sill less frame its a good idea to brace in a bottom sill to keep the frame square.

Try to avoid filling gaps with mortar, the moisture gets soaked up by the frame which then expands, and then the mortar drops out.

 

Thanks every one! Very helpful.

 

I'm not particularly keen on using plugs and screws, as I'd need to drill through the frame.

 

I think, anchoring from behind the frame might be the way to go and embedding it in the wall. Something like as shown in the attached photo, possibly less messy.

 

 

 

 

34 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

If you are prepared for a bit of patching you can bend it around the corner. Therafter you can line the reveal with timber ot replaster.

 

You mean, bending the strap around the corner and just affix it to the wall's surface, rather than embedding it? Supposedly two straps each on the inside and outside of the wall?

 

34 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

Try to avoid filling gaps with mortar, the moisture gets soaked up by the frame which then expands, and then the mortar drops out.

 

I was planning to use foam to fill the gap and just skim render over it.

 

Edited January 22, 20197 yr by Morakot

25 minutes ago, Morakot said:

Thanks every one! Very helpful.

 

I'm not particularly keen on using plugs and screws, as I'd need to drill through the frame.

 

I think, anchoring from behind the frame might be the way to go and embedding it in the wall. Something like as shown in the attached photo, possibly less messy.

 

 

 

 

You mean, bending the strap around the corner and just affix it to the wall's surface, rather than embedding it? Supposedly two straps each on the inside and outside of the wall?

 

 

I was planning to use foam to fill the gap and just skim render over it.

 

Yes the beauty of aac blocks is you can literally scratch out a recess for the strap and bed it right in, even across a corner.

use the aac straps and if you strap on the door opening side of the reveal you can just nail it a few times. There will be no lateral force on it at all.

 

As good measure, if you can maybe drive three screws through the frame right behind your hinges so they will never be seen

It takes one minute to do this

28 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

It takes one minute to do this

 

Perfect! Thanks, ec.

 

53 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

It takes one minute to do this

Using this technique it took this guy 15 seconds. Notice he first bends out 2 jigs out of metal straps which can be used over and over. The first is v-shaped for scoring and the second flat bottomed referred to as "U" in the video. That's decent enough, but also a quick pass with a hand router could be even quicker and flatter.

 

 

Edited January 22, 20197 yr by canopy

2 hours ago, canopy said:

And even then the small ones are not allowed to stick out past the AAC blocks more than 10mm which is not really enough for a door frame. Also note these plugs have virtually no holding power when pulled outward. You can easily finger pull them out. This is a problem when a door frame wishes to bow in. They are only designed for lateral pulling (up/down/left/right).

I think you may be using different metal plugs to the ones I've been using. These, in the picture under, used with the correct size drill need to be hammered into the AAC blocks and have great strength pulled outward, I think you will snap the screw and still not pull the plug out.

 

I've just fitted a hardwood door frame and what I did was to sink the screw heads under the surface of the frame and use plugs cut from the door frame material, while not invisible they match very well.

 

Unfortunately I'm not at home at the moment or I could post a picture. 

 

I'm not a fan of using the straps as I don't think I could get as secure a fitting as using screws and plugs

24 minutes ago, canopy said:

 

Using this technique it took this guy 15 seconds. Notice he first bends out 2 jigs out of metal straps which can be used over and over. The first is v-shaped for scoring and the second flat bottomed referred to as "U" in the video. That's decent enough, but also a quick pass with a hand router could be even quicker and flatter.

 

 

my minute included going to find a strap and an old block and raking with a phillips screwy that was already in my hand....haha

 

But yes, i use the folded strap as a scorer but rake out with an old chisel.

Of course its easier on a wall plus the glue makes a hell of a strengthener.

Straps on frames is great when you want to minimise damage, as is building in as to go. The downside is when you need to remove it if ever

35 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

I've just fitted a hardwood door frame and what I did was to sink the screw heads under the surface of the frame and use plugs cut from the door frame material, while not invisible they match very well

And you will only see the disguised holes when the door is open.

19 hours ago, wgdanson said:

And you will only see the disguised holes when the door is open.

A tiny bit of unsightliness that is easily cured by keeping the door permanently locked. 

Wood plugs are not unsightly, that's why people make them. Besides they will only be noticed by wood workers admiring and studying the design and not in a bad way. Have you looked the plastic door frames they sell these days? Plastic buttons cover the screw heads. Not nearly as beautiful as wood plugs on a beautiful wood frame made to a flush fit.

 

On 1/23/2019 at 10:22 AM, canopy said:

Wood plugs are not unsightly, that's why people make them.

Have you got an example for us to study and admire? 

Edited January 25, 20197 yr by Morakot

26 minutes ago, Morakot said:

Have you got an example for us to study and admire? 

Yes I do thank you.

 

 

If you would like pictures I will be back home in a couple of days and can take a few then.

On 1/25/2019 at 12:05 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

Yes I do thank you.

 

 

If you would like pictures I will be back home in a couple of days and can take a few then.

As suggested, there is no finish on the frame yet

Edited February 1, 20197 yr by sometimewoodworker

6 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

As suggested, there is no finish on the frame yet

 

Thanks very much!

That's actually not too bad. Well done with the matching wood!

Just to be pedantically correct.

Everyone here is talking about plugs. Plugs are driven into the wall to hold screws.

What STWW is showing you are pellets, which are cut from offcuts of a doorframe often 10/12mm diameter to fill the holes of a sunken screw head.

 

Well thats the termonology if you are a Brit, 

3 hours ago, eyecatcher said:

Just to be pedantically correct.

Everyone here is talking about plugs. Plugs are driven into the wall to hold screws.

What STWW is showing you are pellets, which are cut from offcuts of a doorframe often 10/12mm diameter to fill the holes of a sunken screw head.

 

Well thats the termonology if you are a Brit, 

The British are becoming somewhat international as the term plug has become the term for something you put in a wall as well as the thing used to conceal a screw head. Whereas in the past you plugged the screw hole with a pellet you can now plug it with either a plug or pellet.

 

Do plug cutters cut plugs or pellets? ????

I am about to admit defeat......but to answer the plug cutter makes a plug(hole) and the bit you pop out is the pellet.

We are not becoming international, we are British for gawd sake

Thanks gentlemen, very enlightening! This forum is well known for covering the finer points.