I have a Toyota CHR with 1.8L petrol engine.  After the last oil change at the Toyota garage I noticed that they had filled up the oil with 0W-20 Synthetic oil.  I asked the mechanic why this oil and not what was in the owners manual, which I think was 5W-30.  He said the 0-20 syn was what was recommended. I just left it at that because it was syn oil and I don't know if this was correct. What do you think?

0W20 was adopted by the manufacturers to give increased fuel mileage.

They say it also gets up to oil pressure quicker - which I think might be so but in the long run is a marketing ploy.

Many Toyota vehicles, run in hot countries, had engines last 500,000 km and still going strong - way before 0W20 was available

That should tell you something

There will be a page in your handbook with listed oil grades and ambient temps...See what it says.

Would think 0-20 syn would be fine, after me reading a bit, folk use it.... ????

I use it in my weee Suzuki..

Edited February 19, 20206 yr by transam

0W-20 is what they seem to recommend for "eco" cars these days !!

I just put Shell Helix 10w-40 in my Mazda 2... It works ????

Edited February 19, 20206 yr by cornishcarlos

3 minutes ago, cornishcarlos said:

0W-20 is what they seem to recommend for "eco" cars these days !!

I just put Shell Helix 10w-40 in my Mazda 2... It works ????

0-20 gets round the engine quicker which will reduce long term engine wear via its start ups...Better economy via less drag...

Manual usually gives range of motor oils depending on climate. Being a 2ZR engine, it should be able to run 0w-20

 

I put 15W-50 into my Toyota though????

The lower end doesn't matter too much 0w vs 5w, unless you do mostly very brief and very frequent start-stop drives (then 0 would be preferable). The higher end, 20 vs 30 can make somewhat of a difference, a 20 oil is less heat resistant, its additives and therefore protective properties will break sooner and provide less protection when engine is hot and stressed (prolonged high revs). Look for some official evidence that the manufacturer changed their recommendation, search online for notices, contact official service hotline etc. A change can happen, especially for older cars and if the switch is from mineral to full syn and throughout the life of the car after the manufacturer gets more data from actual use.

Lastly, watch for oil consumption (reduction in level of engine oil) as a lower viscosity oil can burn more easily.

Edited February 19, 20206 yr by rambling
typo

Thanks for the info.  I feel a little more at ease.  It doesn't seem to be using any oil, that I can notice, by checking the dip stick.  Which I do quite often.  The car has now 22,000 km and change oil every 10,000 km.

2 minutes ago, spider1197 said:

Thanks for the info.  I feel a little more at ease.  It doesn't seem to be using any oil, that I can notice, by checking the dip stick.  Which I do quite often.  The car has now 22,000 km and change oil every 10,000 km.

You are safe, don't worry....????

In Europe Toyota have been specifying 0W20 oils since the early part of the last decade. A major factor is the need for better fuel economy. Also, it’s not just the viscosity but also the additive package that the oil has…When you buy 0W-20, you are getting a 100% synthetic that meets all kinds of other specifications related to anti-sludging and long drain intervals…Consumers understand “Use Toyota 0W-20 oil” much better than they understand "use a lubricant meeting Toyota specification TMCLS/6638LV/389".  An old 10W30 mineral oil operated under hard conditions will not hold up as well as a synthetic or conventional oil with synthetic additives in a 5W20 or 0W20 oil. These newer oils lubricate better under extreme conditions than older oils, even with higher viscosity ratings.

For an older car with some engine wear there may be an advantage in going to a blend with a heavier base oil such as a 10W which will hold a thicker film. This will help reduce oil consumption. E.g. 10W30 or 10W40 in an older high-mileage vehicle.