Honda Cbr150

[songoku777]

Thanks for the info re the brakes, I did check them and was constantly checking them on the way home, so obviously they're fine now. I didn't know that that would happen but was just concerned about the safety of the bike with the new tyres in the way that you would be naturally concerned after a Thai mechanic had fiddled with your bike. Saying this they definitely seemed to know what they were doing at the shop. Charlie even gave me a call today to check that the tyres were working out OK.

I took my bike to the local mechanic I use, an old guy who I really trust. He didn't feel an oil change was necessary at this stage but we did one anyway. I can't say I noticed any metal/sand in the oil but he did seem surprised at how dirty it was after only 150km.

Er, you might mean 1500km? I regularly change it every 1000km.. but with the expensive FS oil, i do it every 1500km. Thats when it starts to get dirty. At 2000km.. i think it will be very dirty. Btw., i noticed that with every oil change, even at the same interval, the drained oil gets cleaner n cleaner.

From my very 1st oil change, it was at 100km, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000 and so on. I use the old oil as wood treatment since there are a lot of termites where i live

Poor headlight output (from factory) - What can I do to improve it?

I bought myself a new CBR 150R a few months back. I love just about everything about it, except the light output - especially so the low beam. I'm not an expert, but the bike is equipped with twin headlights with fairly large reflectors. Hence I was expecting to see serious amounts of light on the dark Thai roads at night. Admittedly, I'm not in my 20's anymore. But I do feel that a lot of the scooters (Honda Airblade etc.) spreads wider and stronger light on the road. I have no reason to believe that anything should be wrong with my bike - I guess this is the way all CBR 150's shines.....?

Is there anything I can do to improve the light output? I'm not really tempted to switch to the overwattaged, blinding bulbs commonly seen on Thai youngsters bikes. But maybe there's a "legally boosted", suitable quality alternative from Osram or any of the other manufacturers that would be enough to fix my issue?

I would be happy for any input on this. I'm currently in Europe. If changing bulbs is the answer, what kind of bulb socket (H1 etc.) should I look for?

Thank's,

Arctic

I've tried practically all the bulbs i could find for the CBR. Considering our bike runs on a pusating AC elctricity, I ended up with a 35w plasma halogen. And no it wont burn the reflectors or wires (as long as there's no short) since it doesn't get as hot as DC headlights. Plus I highly recommend installing a kill switch since (im not sure if its 2007 or later models) have AHO.

Btw., the headlight type is H6 -same as Honda Wave, Raiders, etc.. personally i prefer H4 types since there are more professional lighting systems that offer such socket type and they are more durable.

Ofcourse HIDs are still the brightest you can put on there. IMO 4300k is perfect since temps above 5000 are insanely blue and you will hardly see anything on a rainy night, not to mention on black asphalt roads. If you live in foggy mountains, 4300k is good also.. but 3000k is best -thats the one with the yellowish tint.

I had my new exhaust fitted yesterday ( NMF with db killer ) Well, the thing is unbelievably loud, even the mechanic was covering his ears. Taking it back today as he said he could quieten it down a bit but if still too loud will be back on with the original. On the 15km ride back from the mechanic the only performance difference I noticed was better acceleration but no improvement in top speed. Still can't really get beyond 9500rpm in top gear, would reducing the rear sprocket size help?

One of the ideas of altering sprcket sizes towards a taller ratio is to get a higher engine RPM at the same speed. This ofcourse brings about more power at any given gear.. with a little expense on topspeed ofcourse.

The stock final ratio is 2.93. IMO for heavy folks doing mostly city driving (or with a FNU).. a 3.1 ratio would do just fine. If you do a lot of highway driving, a ratio of around 3.0 would already have a notable improvement.

Edited August 13, 2009 by songoku777

[JUDAS]

I had my new exhaust fitted yesterday ( NMF with db killer ) Well, the thing is unbelievably loud, even the mechanic was covering his ears. Taking it back today as he said he could quieten it down a bit but if still too loud will be back on with the original. On the 15km ride back from the mechanic the only performance difference I noticed was better acceleration but no improvement in top speed. Still can't really get beyond 9500rpm in top gear, would reducing the rear sprocket size help?

I'm about to buy an NMF for a Suzuki Raider, where did you have it fitted, if in Chiang Mai?

I'm curious as to how he can make it more quiet.

I had it fitted in Issan where I keep the bike as my toy for our regular visits. The guy who fitted it races 2 strokers up here, his workshop is full of trophies. When the wife and I arrived he was preparing his bike for a race in Korat tomorrow, and it was bl@@dy loud. After fitting the NMF his bike sounded like a hair dryer!! The NMF, even with bd killer is seriously loud, my understanding is he'll pack out the end can to reduce noise but didn't have time to go today so I'll sort it Saturday and let you know the result.

[JUDAS]

I had my new exhaust fitted yesterday ( NMF with db killer ) Well, the thing is unbelievably loud, even the mechanic was covering his ears. Taking it back today as he said he could quieten it down a bit but if still too loud will be back on with the original. On the 15km ride back from the mechanic the only performance difference I noticed was better acceleration but no improvement in top speed. Still can't really get beyond 9500rpm in top gear, would reducing the rear sprocket size help?

Have you had a go with the carb? If it's wheezy on the top end that's probably the problem. I have had no issues riding my stock sprocket set up all the way up to nearly redline.

I'm about to buy an NMF for a Suzuki Raider, where did you have it fitted, if in Chiang Mai?

I'm curious as to how he can make it more quiet.

Most likely he's going to pack more glassfibre inside of it.

Cheers Dave. The bike has only 5k on it so I'd assume it should be fine but what exactly would you recommend I check on the carb? Mixture?

[JUDAS]

Thanks for the info re the brakes, I did check them and was constantly checking them on the way home, so obviously they're fine now. I didn't know that that would happen but was just concerned about the safety of the bike with the new tyres in the way that you would be naturally concerned after a Thai mechanic had fiddled with your bike. Saying this they definitely seemed to know what they were doing at the shop. Charlie even gave me a call today to check that the tyres were working out OK.

I took my bike to the local mechanic I use, an old guy who I really trust. He didn't feel an oil change was necessary at this stage but we did one anyway. I can't say I noticed any metal/sand in the oil but he did seem surprised at how dirty it was after only 150km.

Er, you might mean 1500km? I regularly change it every 1000km.. but with the expensive FS oil, i do it every 1500km. Thats when it starts to get dirty. At 2000km.. i think it will be very dirty. Btw., i noticed that with every oil change, even at the same interval, the drained oil gets cleaner n cleaner.

From my very 1st oil change, it was at 100km, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000 and so on. I use the old oil as wood treatment since there are a lot of termites where i live

Poor headlight output (from factory) - What can I do to improve it?

I bought myself a new CBR 150R a few months back. I love just about everything about it, except the light output - especially so the low beam. I'm not an expert, but the bike is equipped with twin headlights with fairly large reflectors. Hence I was expecting to see serious amounts of light on the dark Thai roads at night. Admittedly, I'm not in my 20's anymore. But I do feel that a lot of the scooters (Honda Airblade etc.) spreads wider and stronger light on the road. I have no reason to believe that anything should be wrong with my bike - I guess this is the way all CBR 150's shines.....?

Is there anything I can do to improve the light output? I'm not really tempted to switch to the overwattaged, blinding bulbs commonly seen on Thai youngsters bikes. But maybe there's a "legally boosted", suitable quality alternative from Osram or any of the other manufacturers that would be enough to fix my issue?

I would be happy for any input on this. I'm currently in Europe. If changing bulbs is the answer, what kind of bulb socket (H1 etc.) should I look for?

Thank's,

Arctic

I've tried practically all the bulbs i could find for the CBR. Considering our bike runs on a pusating AC elctricity, I ended up with a 35w plasma halogen. And no it wont burn the reflectors or wires (as long as there's no short) since it doesn't get as hot as DC headlights. Plus I highly recommend installing a kill switch since (im not sure if its 2007 or later models) have AHO.

Btw., the headlight type is H6 -same as Honda Wave, Raiders, etc.. personally i prefer H4 types since there are more professional lighting systems that offer such socket type and they are more durable.

Ofcourse HIDs are still the brightest you can put on there. IMO 4300k is perfect since temps above 5000 are insanely blue and you will hardly see anything on a rainy night, not to mention on black asphalt roads. If you live in foggy mountains, 4300k is good also.. but 3000k is best -thats the one with the yellowish tint.

I had my new exhaust fitted yesterday ( NMF with db killer ) Well, the thing is unbelievably loud, even the mechanic was covering his ears. Taking it back today as he said he could quieten it down a bit but if still too loud will be back on with the original. On the 15km ride back from the mechanic the only performance difference I noticed was better acceleration but no improvement in top speed. Still can't really get beyond 9500rpm in top gear, would reducing the rear sprocket size help?

One of the ideas of altering sprcket sizes towards a taller ratio is to get a higher engine RPM at the same speed. This ofcourse brings about more power at any given gear.. with a little expense on topspeed ofcourse.

The stock final ratio is 2.93. IMO for heavy folks doing mostly city driving (or with a FNU).. a 3.1 ratio would do just fine. If you do a lot of highway driving, a ratio of around 3.0 would already have a notable improvement.

Thanks 777. Still actually trying to decipher it but seems your saying a reduction in rear sprocket size would be beneficial for high speed riding? I only ever ride the bike flat out

[sendbaht]

I'm trying to get the thinnest possible link to the CBR-150 forum that I can..... Let me know how I did!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BmIif9NtDw

How you diiiiid? You diiiid just fine T_Dog. If fact that's one of the cuties pups I have seen in a long while. Good shot of the 150, you had to get your 2nd love in there did'nt you?

[withnail]

I took my bike to the local mechanic I use, an old guy who I really trust. He didn't feel an oil change was necessary at this stage but we did one anyway. I can't say I noticed any metal/sand in the oil but he did seem surprised at how dirty it was after only 150km.

Er, you might mean 1500km? I regularly change it every 1000km.. but with the expensive FS oil, i do it every 1500km. Thats when it starts to get dirty. At 2000km.. i think it will be very dirty. Btw., i noticed that with every oil change, even at the same interval, the drained oil gets cleaner n cleaner.

No, I was right the first time.

[jbeck]

I had my new exhaust fitted yesterday ( NMF with db killer ) Well, the thing is unbelievably loud, even the mechanic was covering his ears. Taking it back today as he said he could quieten it down a bit but if still too loud will be back on with the original. On the 15km ride back from the mechanic the only performance difference I noticed was better acceleration but no improvement in top speed. Still can't really get beyond 9500rpm in top gear, would reducing the rear sprocket size help?

Have you had a go with the carb? If it's wheezy on the top end that's probably the problem. I have had no issues riding my stock sprocket set up all the way up to nearly redline.

I'm about to buy an NMF for a Suzuki Raider, where did you have it fitted, if in Chiang Mai?

I'm curious as to how he can make it more quiet.

Most likely he's going to pack more glassfibre inside of it.

Cheers Dave. The bike has only 5k on it so I'd assume it should be fine but what exactly would you recommend I check on the carb? Mixture?

If you only drive the bike flat out that's pretty interesting! Where? Does that mean only in a straight line?

I have a suggestion: first the bike will and should run properly stock, to the redline.

Then I think you should decide how much faster you want to make it and how much willing to spend.

So you can be realistic... a pipe alone is not the answer if the desire is a significant power/speed increase.

Realistic top speed increase: CDI, 28mm flatslide carb, cams, pipe, #415 sprockets and chain, taller gearing (-3 teeth rear), colder heat range iridium spark plug, full synthetic oil. Lighten the bike if you can.

I'd put on quality tires, a steering damper, and wear a helmet! Find the correct different main jet through experimentation..

How fast do you want to go/how much do you want to spend?

I'd like to see you go about 170 or 180 KPH!

Jeff

[JUDAS]

Cheers jbeck. As for flat out, well yeah pretty much most places up here ( Issan ) great roads and sweeping bends though I do have to slow down sometimes At the minute I'm on synthetic oil and running Michelin Pilot Sporty's. Strange I can't get it red lined in top. I'm getting around 120-125kph in normal riding position with 140 on full tuck, did once see 150:). I've actually just emailed the guy who supplied my exhaust asking for prices of the parts you mentioned

I'd actually be happy to get 140kph in normal riding, but let's see . Thanks for your help.

[dave_boo]

Cheers jbeck. As for flat out, well yeah pretty much most places up here ( Issan ) great roads and sweeping bends though I do have to slow down sometimes At the minute I'm on synthetic oil and running Michelin Pilot Sporty's. Strange I can't get it red lined in top. I'm getting around 120-125kph in normal riding position with 140 on full tuck, did once see 150:). I've actually just emailed the guy who supplied my exhaust asking for prices of the parts you mentioned

I'd actually be happy to get 140kph in normal riding, but let's see . Thanks for your help.

If you only get to 9500 RPM something's wrong; very wrong. Does it redline in other gears? I.E., in second or third can you take it up until the engine starts cutting out (rev-limiter)? If it doesn't you have some issues that need sorted.

It could be you have a faulty CDI or the carb needs to be set up. It also could be something as simple as gunk in the carb. There's so many posts in this thread that I've forgotten the history of your bike; was it bought new and what mods did you have done to it?

If it does redline in lower gears, than you're probably going to have to play with your gearing. You do not want to go taller (take teeth away) because that will reduce the torque advantage that is going to your rear wheel. You want to go shorter (add teeth). This will increase the torque and hopefully allow you to get more speed.

My little cibbie is still bone stock; in fact gets its oil done at the Honda dealership and I have no problems hitting an indicated 140.

Also, not to besmirch your mechanic, but there's quite a bit of difference between tuning a 2-stroke and a 4-stroke. I'm sure he's really good at what he does, but get someone along with you that can adequately explain the issue (I'm assuming that the wife/girlfriend is out of the question if she's anything like mine). Tell him that it runs good at low/mid RPMs and is not reaching the top ones. I'd assume it's just the main jet. You can see for yourself; pull your sparkplug out and clean it really well. Go out for a ride and rev it as far as you can. Get home and pull the sparkplug again (I shouldn't have to tell you to wait for it to cool). Is it a greyish yellow colour? Than it's running lean....if it's a blackish it's running rich.

Both can cause problems, but the lean-ness is an engine killer. Gets too hot inside there and your piston can burn a hole in itself, seize in the cylinder, etc. Running too rich, and I mean really too rich (you'd be able to smell an excess of petrol coming out the exhaust) would cool the piston down too much and you'd lose efficiency.

[JUDAS]

Cheers jbeck. As for flat out, well yeah pretty much most places up here ( Issan ) great roads and sweeping bends though I do have to slow down sometimes At the minute I'm on synthetic oil and running Michelin Pilot Sporty's. Strange I can't get it red lined in top. I'm getting around 120-125kph in normal riding position with 140 on full tuck, did once see 150:). I've actually just emailed the guy who supplied my exhaust asking for prices of the parts you mentioned

I'd actually be happy to get 140kph in normal riding, but let's see . Thanks for your help.

If you only get to 9500 RPM something's wrong; very wrong. Does it redline in other gears? I.E., in second or third can you take it up until the engine starts cutting out (rev-limiter)? If it doesn't you have some issues that need sorted.

It could be you have a faulty CDI or the carb needs to be set up. It also could be something as simple as gunk in the carb. There's so many posts in this thread that I've forgotten the history of your bike; was it bought new and what mods did you have done to it?

If it does redline in lower gears, than you're probably going to have to play with your gearing. You do not want to go taller (take teeth away) because that will reduce the torque advantage that is going to your rear wheel. You want to go shorter (add teeth). This will increase the torque and hopefully allow you to get more speed.

My little cibbie is still bone stock; in fact gets its oil done at the Honda dealership and I have no problems hitting an indicated 140.

Also, not to besmirch your mechanic, but there's quite a bit of difference between tuning a 2-stroke and a 4-stroke. I'm sure he's really good at what he does, but get someone along with you that can adequately explain the issue (I'm assuming that the wife/girlfriend is out of the question if she's anything like mine). Tell him that it runs good at low/mid RPMs and is not reaching the top ones. I'd assume it's just the main jet. You can see for yourself; pull your sparkplug out and clean it really well. Go out for a ride and rev it as far as you can. Get home and pull the sparkplug again (I shouldn't have to tell you to wait for it to cool). Is it a greyish yellow colour? Than it's running lean....if it's a blackish it's running rich.

Both can cause problems, but the lean-ness is an engine killer. Gets too hot inside there and your piston can burn a hole in itself, seize in the cylinder, etc. Running too rich, and I mean really too rich (you'd be able to smell an excess of petrol coming out the exhaust) would cool the piston down too much and you'd lose efficiency.

Dave, thanks for taking the time for comprehensive answer. Bike is mechanically standard, I bought it with 3k on the clock now got over 5k. Will check out the points you mentioned though I'm sure she's defo not running rich, so possibly a little lean. And yes, will hit the red line in all other gears apart from top.

[jbeck]

If it does redline in lower gears, than you're probably going to have to play with your gearing. You do not want to go taller (take teeth away) because that will reduce the torque advantage that is going to your rear wheel. You want to go shorter (add teeth). This will increase the torque and hopefully allow you to get more speed.

I don't agree with dave_boo: You do not have to play with your gearing to 'get back to proper operation' - a stock bike (or with pipe) should work fine in all gears.

Did it redline with the stock pipe, i.e. you did not fix an existing problem, and hoped the pipe would fix it? Not the right way to do it.

And the laws of physics say you will have a lower top speed by adding teeth to the rear sprocket.

Anyway, a real mechanic should be able to take care of the issue, i.e., you don't have to tell him what to do, only what's wrong

Good luck

Jeff

[dave_boo]

I don't agree with dave_boo: You do not have to play with your gearing to 'get back to proper operation' - a stock bike (or with pipe) should work fine in all gears.

Did it redline with the stock pipe, i.e. you did not fix an existing problem, and hoped the pipe would fix it? Not the right way to do it.

And the laws of physics say you will have a lower top speed by adding teeth to the rear sprocket.

Anyway, a real mechanic should be able to take care of the issue, i.e., you don't have to tell him what to do, only what's wrong

Good luck

Jeff

I allow you the right to disagree with me....

And you're correct; a properly set up bike making abundant power shouldn't go with a 'shorter' gearing. However, if you don't have enough power to spin out to max RPMs in top gear, you can go with a ratio that allows more of a torque advantage--this will allow the engine to actually get closer to the rev limiter. Think of it this way; you can carry one 50 kilo sack of cement or get a pole and string two 50 kilo bags to it. There is obviously a point where you reach diminishing returns; back on the 6th or so page of this thread I posted up a spreadsheet that let's you play with the various gearings. Assuming that he wants to increase his speed to a set point and still increase his take off, he can keep increasing teeth until he gets where he wants.

[jbeck]

I don't agree with dave_boo: You do not have to play with your gearing to 'get back to proper operation' - a stock bike (or with pipe) should work fine in all gears.

Did it redline with the stock pipe, i.e. you did not fix an existing problem, and hoped the pipe would fix it? Not the right way to do it.

And the laws of physics say you will have a lower top speed by adding teeth to the rear sprocket.

Anyway, a real mechanic should be able to take care of the issue, i.e., you don't have to tell him what to do, only what's wrong

Good luck

Jeff

I allow you the right to disagree with me....

And you're correct; a properly set up bike making abundant power shouldn't go with a 'shorter' gearing. However, if you don't have enough power to spin out to max RPMs in top gear, you can go with a ratio that allows more of a torque advantage--this will allow the engine to actually get closer to the rev limiter. Think of it this way; you can carry one 50 kilo sack of cement or get a pole and string two 50 kilo bags to it. There is obviously a point where you reach diminishing returns; back on the 6th or so page of this thread I posted up a spreadsheet that let's you play with the various gearings. Assuming that he wants to increase his speed to a set point and still increase his take off, he can keep increasing teeth until he gets where he wants.

Cement example aside, I thought a 'normal' CBR will reach redline in all gears, if not, then sure, other factors come into play.

What RPM do you think a normal stock CBR will reach on a non windy day with a 160 pound rider?

In your experience, does a CBR NOT have enough power to spin out to max (rev limiter) RPMs in top gear?

Interesting. . .

What are some observed top speeds/RPMs of CBRs?

[PeaceBlondie]

Both of my stock CBR's have had a top speed of 141 indicated; I

[JUDAS]

Both of my stock CBR's have had a top speed of 141 indicated

I believe you PB, no need to tell me 9 times . Am I RIGHT IN ASSUMING 141 IS FULLY TUCKED? OR IN NORMAL RIDING POSITION.

P.S. Caps lock, sorry.

[PeaceBlondie]

Both of my stock CBR's have had a top speed of 141 indicated

I believe you PB, no need to tell me 9 times . Am I RIGHT IN ASSUMING 141 IS FULLY TUCKED? OR IN NORMAL RIDING POSITION.

P.S. Caps lock, sorry.

No problem about cap locks. Sorry about the 9 identical posts.

Tucked in. Truth, I only reached around 140 once on my 2008; no safe place for it. I'm thinking about gearing lower soon; I seem to recall 141 kph is barely 10500 rpm (too busy to notice).

[songoku777]

Thanks 777. Still actually trying to decipher it but seems your saying a reduction in rear sprocket size would be beneficial for high speed riding? I only ever ride the bike flat out

You got that right JUDAS, IMO the CBR's stock gearing at 15-44 is weak in itself. To get a better performance, altering other stuff will definitely work.. but a little more costly and time consuming with all of them combined. Try that simple gear (sprocket change), thats all and see if you like it.. then perhaps fiddle with the other stuff. Also, its not that expensive.. start small

I took my bike to the local mechanic I use, an old guy who I really trust. He didn't feel an oil change was necessary at this stage but we did one anyway. I can't say I noticed any metal/sand in the oil but he did seem surprised at how dirty it was after only 150km.

Er, you might mean 1500km? I regularly change it every 1000km.. but with the expensive FS oil, i do it every 1500km. Thats when it starts to get dirty. At 2000km.. i think it will be very dirty. Btw., i noticed that with every oil change, even at the same interval, the drained oil gets cleaner n cleaner.

No, I was right the first time.

You said 150km? ..wow that is unusual! Try observing the 2nd, 3rd, 4th oil changes.. the oil should be a lot cleaner upon draining. One good thing about seeing a more dirty oil when you drain.. it could mean the oil you're using has good cleaning properties. Imagine that dirt staying inside your engine instead of being expelled.

[jbeck]

Both of my stock CBR's have had a top speed of 141 indicated; I

@What RPM ?

[PeaceBlondie]

Both of my stock CBR's have had a top speed of 141 indicated; I

@What RPM ?

Who's looking down at those speeds? 120 kph = 9000 rpm. my calculator says 11,500 rpm = 153 kph; it won't do that. 5th gear does hit 11,500 rpm.

[phobic]

Redline 5th gear, speedo = 145km/h.... redline 6th gear = 160 km/h

Im a light weight rider though.

[PeaceBlondie]

On my way home today, I tried top speed in 5th. It seemed to only go to 135 kph, 11,000 rpm. Too dangerous to be reading dials.

[wjmark]

With the 47 rear, 11,000rpm = 140km/hr. 11,500=143. 9,600rpm=120km

With the old 44, it was 9,000=120

This is with my Michelins.

One thing about the 47 is there is much more oomph in 6th. I still hit 140 easily, and perhaps more easily than with the 44. Seems like the torque band pulls much better in 6th. With the 44 I remember it flattening out at 10,500rpm, but now it pulls easily to 11,500.

[dave_boo]

Cement example aside, I thought a 'normal' CBR will reach redline in all gears, if not, then sure, other factors come into play.

What RPM do you think a normal stock CBR will reach on a non windy day with a 160 pound rider?

In your experience, does a CBR NOT have enough power to spin out to max (rev limiter) RPMs in top gear?

Interesting. . .

What are some observed top speeds/RPMs of CBRs?

Nope, it won't redline in top gear for me (but than again neither will my Ninja...suppose I should lose some weight)--but I'm like 25% or so more heavy than you.

I still didn't have any issue reaching 140 indicated.

[songoku777]

With the 47 rear, 11,000rpm = 140km/hr. 11,500=143. 9,600rpm=120km

With the old 44, it was 9,000=120

This is with my Michelins.

One thing about the 47 is there is much more oomph in 6th. I still hit 140 easily, and perhaps more easily than with the 44. Seems like the torque band pulls much better in 6th. With the 44 I remember it flattening out at 10,500rpm, but now it pulls easily to 11,500.

47 rear makes the RPM bandwidth of the top gear more useable. Cruises at 90-95kph @8000 RPM.

[withnail]

For the benefit of idiots like me could someone do a sprocket changing for dummies summary. The stock is 15/44 right? And the two options I've seen people suggest are 14/44 and 15/47. What are the basic benefits of each?

[dave_boo]

For the benefit of idiots like me could someone do a sprocket changing for dummies summary. The stock is 15/44 right? And the two options I've seen people suggest are 14/44 and 15/47. What are the basic benefits of each?

14/44=3,143

15/47=3,133

There is no difference between those two, relatively. However, stock is 2,933; which means that for every ~3 turns of the front sprocket the rear should turn once. The other two listed have the front sprocket spinning a bit more than that which means that the bike is 'geared down' and has a better mechanical advantage.

[phobic]

Hey, i might have mentioned this before.. so flame me if that is the case.

How long should the throttle cable be for keihin pwk 28mm, anyone have a clue?

Thanks guys.

[jbeck]

For the benefit of idiots like me could someone do a sprocket changing for dummies summary. The stock is 15/44 right? And the two options I've seen people suggest are 14/44 and 15/47. What are the basic benefits of each?

14/44=3,143

15/47=3,133

There is no difference between those two, relatively. However, stock is 2,933; which means that for every ~3 turns of the front sprocket the rear should turn once. The other two listed have the front sprocket spinning a bit more than that which means that the bike is 'geared down' and has a better mechanical advantage.

I hope these advices are known to be 'advice', dave-boo, can I politely - with no harm intended - ask what your engineering background is?

Anyhow I will add that smaller front sprockets wear out the chain more quickly.

jeff

[dave_boo]

I hope these advices are known to be 'advice', dave-boo, can I politely - with no harm intended - ask what your engineering background is?

Anyhow I will add that smaller front sprockets wear out the chain more quickly.

jeff

All information offered here is just advice. However, those (especially without even having a CBR 150R) who can not understand the fact that the bike has all of 20ish HP and gearing up for a higher top end is an exercise in futility. According to their line of thinking, we could stick an insanely small rear sprocket on the rear and the bike would reach 200 kph.

Whilst I admit that I am not perfect and do err (after all I am human) and thus do not get offended when corrected, there are red flags raised when someone comes in and without a single supporting fact attempts to cast doubt on the postings. If there's something factually wrong with what I've posted; and others have corroborated based on their personal experience feel free to provide us with just exactly why we are wrong and should consider the merit of your advice.

My engineering background; in classical training is non-existent in the fact that I did not go to uni for it. That doesn't preclude the actual hands on training/work that was received over the years....unless there's going to be an attempt to refute the adage "Those who can do; those who can't teach".

[withnail]

For the benefit of idiots like me could someone do a sprocket changing for dummies summary. The stock is 15/44 right? And the two options I've seen people suggest are 14/44 and 15/47. What are the basic benefits of each?

14/44=3,143

15/47=3,133

There is no difference between those two, relatively. However, stock is 2,933; which means that for every ~3 turns of the front sprocket the rear should turn once. The other two listed have the front sprocket spinning a bit more than that which means that the bike is 'geared down' and has a better mechanical advantage.

Thanks, that makes sense. I'm considering this as most of my riding is in Bangkok.