Can A100 be used on wood furniture instead of lacquer ?

[DineshR]

Hello,

 

I just bought some outdoor wood furniture and before putting them to use, I was thinking of applying a coat of lacquer or something to help keep the wood in good condition.

I just had an extension built and the guy that did the painting, after painting the wood door with wood stain, applied A100 to the door. He told me that A100 would protect the wood from water damage. The doors in this extension to the house are exterior doors and exposed to the elements. I had previously told him that I was worried about rain hitting the doors and causing the door to bulge with moisture. He indicated that A100 would protect the door. Now that I bought some wood furniture, I was thinking of applying A100 to the furniture as well. The wood furniture (tables) would sit in a sala and not be directly exposed to the elements though when there is heavy rain, there is a chance the tables will be exposed to rain.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or should I just stick with lacquer ? Any advice would be most appreciated. 

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, DineshR said:

Hello,

 

I just bought some outdoor wood furniture and before putting them to use, I was thinking of applying a coat of lacquer or something to help keep the wood in good condition.

I just had an extension built and the guy that did the painting, after painting the wood door with wood stain, applied A100 to the door. He told me that A100 would protect the wood from water damage. The doors in this extension to the house are exterior doors and exposed to the elements. I had previously told him that I was worried about rain hitting the doors and causing the door to bulge with moisture. He indicated that A100 would protect the door. Now that I bought some wood furniture, I was thinking of applying A100 to the furniture as well. The wood furniture (tables) would sit in a sala and not be directly exposed to the elements though when there is heavy rain, there is a chance the tables will be exposed to rain.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or should I just stick with lacquer ? Any advice would be most appreciated. 

What is A100? With that information advice can be given.

[lopburi3]

Seems to be a low price TOA gloss finish mostly used on stone.  Believe most would use TOA T4000 poly-urethane for outside wood.

[sometimewoodworker]

26 minutes ago, lopburi3 said:

Seems to be a low price TOA gloss finish mostly used on stone.  Believe most would use TOA T4000 poly-urethane for outside wood.

It could be but then is totally wrong for furniture.

 

Quote

TOA-100 Water Repellent Gloss can apply on many types of substrate - Sandstone, slate stone, washed sand, natural stone and brick
- Pottery, sculpture
- Concrete wall, asbestos sheets
- Fiber cement

But the TOA 4000 is not for full sun use either 

Quote

TOA Polyurethane 1K Gloss For Exterior #T-4000 is a one pack moisture cured polyurethane, suitable for interior wood floor that some time exposed to sunlight. 

 

Edited March 8, 2021 by sometimewoodworker

[lopburi3]

20 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

It could be but then is totally wrong for furniture.

 

But the TOA 4000 is not for full sun use either 

 

Quote

And wooden furniture That are exposed to sunlight for some time Especially the area near the window or balcony.

It is rated exterior whereas the T3000 is interior.  But with a 10 year guarantee guess they do not want to have to keep that with full sun.????

At any rate I developed a very severe allegoric reaction to fumes after doing some teakwood and now can't even be in a room it has been recently used.  

[DineshR]

Hi,

 

Thank you all for your comments.

 

A100 is a polymer type coating that apparently (can't verify) can withstand up to 100C. Seems like there are various brands out there including TOA. The can of A100 that the painter left with me (not TOA but can't recall the brand name) had pictures of various items on the can including stone surfaces, wood doors, counter tops, chattahoochee type sand stone floor, and furniture.

In my extension, the painter used it on all my walls (cement finished walls called ขัดมัน - "cut mun"), my cement counter tops in the bathrooms and kitchen, decorative red brick around columns and all the doors (after 2 coats of wood stain). After applying 2 coats, it looks really good IMHO on the walls, doors, counter tops etc.  See photos below. It has a glossy feel to it and repels water. The guy that did my walkways with chattahoochee style stones, also used A100 as a final coating after the floor was done.

And as a poster noted above, the fumes are obnoxious and one needs to keep clear of the places where it is applied until it is completely dry and the fumes are no longer there.

I saw mention of TOA 3000 and 4000 above. I'll investigate those as well.

 

 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

8 hours ago, DineshR said:

Hi,

 

Thank you all for your comments.

 

A100 is a polymer type coating that apparently (can't verify) can withstand up to 100C. Seems like there are various brands out there including TOA. The can of A100 that the painter left with me (not TOA but can't recall the brand name) had pictures of various items on the can including stone surfaces, wood doors, counter tops, chattahoochee type sand stone floor, and furniture.

In my extension, the painter used it on all my walls (cement finished walls called ขัดมัน - "cut mun"), my cement counter tops in the bathrooms and kitchen, decorative red brick around columns and all the doors (after 2 coats of wood stain). After applying 2 coats, it looks really good IMHO on the walls, doors, counter tops etc.  See photos below. It has a glossy feel to it and repels water. The guy that did my walkways with chattahoochee style stones, also used A100 as a final coating after the floor was done.

And as a poster noted above, the fumes are obnoxious and one needs to keep clear of the places where it is applied until it is completely dry and the fumes are no longer there.

I saw mention of TOA 3000 and 4000 above. I'll investigate those as well.

 

 

 

You need to check the producers information on the product. One that is designed for use on stone or any similar substrate has no need to be very flexible. A product designed for wood has to be flexible or it will crack. There is no product that is designed to be used on wood that has a long (several years) lifespan in full sun, the UV will degrade it.
A rigid film finish will breakdown quickly because it will fracture.

A flexible film finish (spar varnish) will last longer.

Both may need to be taken off the wood (the rigid film must be) before the next coat is applied.

No finish will stop the wood going grey, they may delay the process.

A non film finish can often be over coated without stripping the original finish, just cleaning it and degreasing may be OK.

You need a finish with UV inhabitants in it.

Just because two makers use the same name for a product means nothing about what is actually in that product, it could be the same, totally different, or anything between. Just look at “Tung oil” there are many different products with the name, they are all different, some have no tung oil in them.

[DineshR]

@sometimewoodworkerThank you very much for your detailed comments. Much appreciated.