I want to bring over an tool to measure the voltage and continuity of the wiring in my house I intend to build. Is this one I can use??? Or does someone have a better idea. I live in the US (and Khao Lak), and we have 120v system, so it makes it hard to bring over appliances, etc.

Here is what I bought (cost $15USD):

Craftsman Digital Multimeter with AC Voltage Detector

Product Overview:

Large 2000 count LCD display

1.5V and 9V Battery tests under load

CAT II-600V, CE & UL Listed

Voltage Detector

AC/DC Current, AC/DC Voltage, Resistance, Frequency, Capacitance, Temperature, Diode, and Continuity

Non-Contact detection of AC Voltage from 12VAC to 600VAC

Audible and visible voltage indication

UL and CE approved; CAT III-600V

• Multi-Meter, Multi-Tester Accessory: Multi-meter or scope
  
• Item Weight: 0.75 lbs.
  
• General Warranty: 1 year limited
  
• See Owners Manual: Click Here
  
• Manual del Dueno: Presione Aqui
  
• General Features:
  
• Case/Storage Style: Holster
  
• Case/Storage Material: Rubber
  
• Tester:
  
• AC Current: Yes
  
• Continuity: Yes
  
• DC Current: Yes
  
• Diodes: Yes
  
• Resistance: Yes
  
• Volts: Yes
  
• Controls, Display:
  
• Type: Digital
  
• Quality:
  
• UL Listed: Yes
  
• Color:
  
• Overall Color: Gray/red
  
• Batteries:
  
• Number Required: 1
  
• Number Included: None
  
• Included with Item:
  
• Test Leads: Yes
  

It will work - for up to 600 volts and we should not have more than about 240 here.

EDIT now I've read the OP properly, yes it will be just fine

Buy a neon-screwdriver too, great for final confirmation that that wire is dead before you touch it

Edited February 25, 200818 yr by Crossy

I assume that is what the AC Voltage Detector in the photo is - but perhaps without the useful screwdriver blade.

I assume that is what the AC Voltage Detector in the photo is - but perhaps without the useful screwdriver blade.

Actually that's a non-contact sniffer, great for finding wires under the plaster too BUT it has a battery and therefore does not fail safe, with a dead battery the light does not come on tricking you into a false sense of security

Neon drivers need no power, the neon lights by passing a (small) current to ground via you putting your finger on the top.

Never used those - but if negative light with dead battery would not want to do so either. Guess they would be useful in US with the gypsum walls if can be used to trace. How many years have they been using these? Obviously I am moving into a former era (the first neon testers I used had a lamp and two wires) - considered the screwdriver type a huge improvement.

Trust me on this… Thai builders and “electricians” usually fail to add a ground wire, IMHO the most important thing you can do during the construction would be to install proper grounding and perhaps even a lighting rod.

Jim from Sa Kaeo

Never used those - but if negative light with dead battery would not want to do so either. Guess they would be useful in US with the gypsum walls if can be used to trace. How many years have they been using these? Obviously I am moving into a former era (the first neon testers I used had a lamp and two wires) - considered the screwdriver type a huge improvement.

They do have their uses, particularly as they work without contact so you can 'see' through the insulation and plaster/gypsum.

Trust me on this… Thai builders and “electricians” usually fail to add a ground wire, IMHO the most important thing you can do during the construction would be to install proper grounding and perhaps even a lighting rod.

Most definately, ground is the most important wire

OTOH I'm not sure about the lightning rod, I don't really want to attract the stuff to my delicate computers and entertainment systems , I let the Wat next door handle the stuff from the heavens, they are better protected

Edited February 25, 200818 yr by Crossy

Moved to the DIY forum

///MOVED///

Many thanks to all that have responded on my topic. This unit I purchased also has the lead wires with metal contacts that you can insert into the receptacle. The pen-like unit is a bonus, but not the only way to measure. In my last rental, I did run a ground wire from my water heater and into a ground rod outside the house. I found out that many of the 'grounded' wall plugs simply did not have a ground wire attached. The receptacle only had the third plug peg to accomodate three-prong plugs, but did not provide grounding.

I will run ground wire throughout the house, with proper ground rods. Not sure about the lightning rod in this type of climate! I'll let the coconut trees get zapped. I will, however, have proper Belkin Surge Protectors. Expensive here in Thailand, though. I'd bring them over from US, but we're 110-120v.

Thanks again!

Are you sure the outlets were not grounded? In the US it used to be that outlets were grounded by the steel conduit rather than a third wire. After that it was a third wire connected directly to outlet box. So the metal tabs on the outlet made contact with the metal outlet box with the faceplate screws and the conduit/wire connected to the box. The did leave a lot of room for problems and a direct 3rd wire was later used - but it probably never was changed in homes already having the old systems. Now that you have the meter you can check from hot to ground (should read the same as hot to neutral if good ground).

Unless you are running an operating room would not worry too much about surge protectors for general house use. The electric is quite stable here (more so than I have observed in the USA). Although upcountry can often be at brownout (low voltage) during early evening.

I think you bought the wrong tester because the one you bought is needlessly expensive for the simple tasks which you say you bought it for namely checking voltage and continuity. Volt Ohm meters can be purchased here in Thailand for very low prices which will do those two tasks perfectly.....buying your tester for those two tasks is sort of like buying a complete set of surgical tools for shaving.

Chownah

Edited February 26, 200818 yr by chownah

I think you bought the wrong tester because the one you bought is needlessly expensive ......

.......buying your tester for those two tasks is sort of like buying a complete set of surgical tools for shaving.

That was my initial thought, but it was only $15, something suitable here would be about 300 Baht so not a lot of difference really. If he'd bought a $500 Fluke then I'd wholeheartedly agree

The REALLY cheap analog(ue) meters sold here are very nasty! I don't think I'd want to connect one of those to a mains outlet, particularly if I was holding the test probes

On the whole I think he's got a perfectly suitable tool

Incidentally, I have a $500 Fluke DMM which is now over 15 years old, it's been dropped more times than I care to remember and overloaded in ways I don't really want to admit (in a mains outlet when set to "ohms"), still works well enough for the task in hand

Edited February 26, 200818 yr by Crossy

Volt Ohm meters

You are showing our age. That takes me back to VTVM days.

Volt Ohm meters

You are showing our age. That takes me back to VTVM days.

I wonder how many of the young whippersnappers know what the mirror on the scale is for

I didn't see the price before my first post.....for $15US I think he got exactly what he needs.

Chownah

Volt Ohm meters

You are showing our age. That takes me back to VTVM days.

I wonder how many of the young whippersnappers know what the mirror on the scale is for

I believe the mirror was used to line up the needle with the surface of the scale, so when you line them up (the actual needle and it's own reflection) you know that your reading is as accurate as possible. Reminds me of the Air Force days while working on those A10's.

J.