Setting Up Rear Plough

[Mali1964]

Does anyone have any ideas's on setting up the plough hitch on our Kubota M105S, the problem i have is heavy fuel consumption due to our driver not setting up the plough correctly, its been snaping the right hand link chain & i've just repaired the left ram seal, we have reduced it to a 6 disc harrow from its original 7 which this alone as taken some pressure off the tractor, but were still snaping the link chain,even though we have fitted the biggest we could find,i need to get through to my driver but he think's he know's best.

My understanding is that he as set it up to plough deep for 180 baht a rai but no one even kubota engineer seems to be able to help i've managed to get an english manuel but this give's no advise on set up of the plough i'll post some photo's of the set up as it was.

Thanks Shaun

[Mali1964]

Thanks Shaun

[IsaanAussie]

Shaun,

Check out Maizefarmers posts on tractor/plough set up, should assist greatly. My tractor is much smaller so I am not the right person to advise you, but I question the size of the 3 point linkage. It appears to be a Cat 1 or 2 linkage plough and I thought yours should be larger?

Hope you get it to work, good luck.

Isaanaussie

[ozzydom]

Does anyone have any ideas's on setting up the plough hitch on our Kubota M105S, the problem i have is heavy fuel consumption due to our driver not setting up the plough correctly, its been snaping the right hand link chain & i've just repaired the left ram seal, we have reduced it to a 6 disc harrow from its original 7 which this alone as taken some pressure off the tractor, but were still snaping the link chain,even though we have fitted the biggest we could find,i need to get through to my driver but he think's he know's best.

My understanding is that he as set it up to plough deep for 180 baht a rai but no one even kubota engineer seems to be able to help i've managed to get an english manuel but this give's no advise on set up of the plough i'll post some photo's of the set up as it was.

Thanks Shaun

If your disc set has adjustable attack angle,lessening the angle will make it easier to pull, this may require that you close up the disc spacing to get a good furrow rollover.

you will get a slightly narrower cut ,but it should take the pressure off your motive power a bit and be less strain on components.

[Gary A]

It simply looks like too much tractor for a light weight finishing disc that you are trying to use for a plow. I'd suggest that you buy an offset disk plow. Each disc has its own bearing and support shaft. The discs themselves have no shaft in the front center and allow deeper plowing without the dirt trying to pass over a shaft.

That finishing disc should pull fairly easily if properly used.

[mgjackson69]

It seems that your "driver" is trying to use this finishing disk as a plow. Wrong implement for the job.

Breaking parts on the tractor would suggest that it is too much implement for the tractor, or is being used improperly.

Tell him to do it your way, or he is out of a job.

[Mali1964]

It simply looks like too much tractor for a light weight finishing disc that you are trying to use for a plow. I'd suggest that you buy an offset disk plow. Each disc has its own bearing and support shaft. The discs themselves have no shaft in the front center and allow deeper plowing without the dirt trying to pass over a shaft.

That finishing disc should pull fairly easily if properly used.

Hi Gary

Do you have any photo's of this offset disk plough to help my simple new farmer understanding.

Thanks Shaun

[Mali1964]

Does anyone have any ideas's on setting up the plough hitch on our Kubota M105S, the problem i have is heavy fuel consumption due to our driver not setting up the plough correctly, its been snaping the right hand link chain & i've just repaired the left ram seal, we have reduced it to a 6 disc harrow from its original 7 which this alone as taken some pressure off the tractor, but were still snaping the link chain,even though we have fitted the biggest we could find,i need to get through to my driver but he think's he know's best.

My understanding is that he as set it up to plough deep for 180 baht a rai but no one even kubota engineer seems to be able to help i've managed to get an english manuel but this give's no advise on set up of the plough i'll post some photo's of the set up as it was.

Thanks Shaun

If your disc set has adjustable attack angle,lessening the angle will make it easier to pull, this may require that you close up the disc spacing to get a good furrow rollover.

you will get a slightly narrower cut ,but it should take the pressure off your motive power a bit and be less strain on components.

Hi ozzydom

So do you think adding back the 7th disc with its smaller spacer's would achive this, or do you mean stay with the six disc's but with smaller spacer's?

Also i did not fully explain about the set up that i meant, in the photo's you see the main raise & lower bar that as a thread on there this was turned out as fair as it could go what does this do?? i'm of the understanding that it sets the plough into the soil deeper thus giving great strain on all componants,also both bars have 2 hole's to choose from in the main attachment arms, what is there purpose because when i put it back in the forward most hole the link chain stopped snapping, but Kubota on its 600 hour service have but it back to the rear most hole this must give more leverage therefore more pressure again.

Now i'm very confused with comments that this is not a plough attachment, but a finishing disc attachment, can someone explain the main difference? It looks the same as all the many fords i see have attached all over issarn & its part of the package that Kubota/Siam sell for the purpose of ploughing.

Thanks for your advise so far Shaun.

[Mali1964]

Shaun,

Check out Maizefarmers posts on tractor/plough set up, should assist greatly. My tractor is much smaller so I am not the right person to advise you, but I question the size of the 3 point linkage. It appears to be a Cat 1 or 2 linkage plough and I thought yours should be larger?

Hope you get it to work, good luck.

Isaanaussie

Hi Isaanaussie

I'm just getting the hang of this forum, i've taken a look at maizefarmers topic's they go back to 2006 no mention of a plough setup topic, you wouldn't have a link would you ??

I'll goggle cat 1/2 do you mean there's a cat 3 etc ?

Cheers for the reply Shaun.

[mgjackson69]

Does anyone have any ideas's on setting up the plough hitch on our Kubota M105S, the problem i have is heavy fuel consumption due to our driver not setting up the plough correctly, its been snaping the right hand link chain & i've just repaired the left ram seal, we have reduced it to a 6 disc harrow from its original 7 which this alone as taken some pressure off the tractor, but were still snaping the link chain,even though we have fitted the biggest we could find,i need to get through to my driver but he think's he know's best.

My understanding is that he as set it up to plough deep for 180 baht a rai but no one even kubota engineer seems to be able to help i've managed to get an english manuel but this give's no advise on set up of the plough i'll post some photo's of the set up as it was.

Thanks Shaun

If your disc set has adjustable attack angle,lessening the angle will make it easier to pull, this may require that you close up the disc spacing to get a good furrow rollover.

you will get a slightly narrower cut ,but it should take the pressure off your motive power a bit and be less strain on components.

Hi ozzydom

So do you think adding back the 7th disc with its smaller spacer's would achive this, or do you mean stay with the six disc's but with smaller spacer's?

Also i did not fully explain about the set up that i meant, in the photo's you see the main raise & lower bar that as a thread on there this was turned out as fair as it could go what does this do?? i'm of the understanding that it sets the plough into the soil deeper thus giving great strain on all componants,also both bars have 2 hole's to choose from in the main attachment arms, what is there purpose because when i put it back in the forward most hole the link chain stopped snapping, but Kubota on its 600 hour service have but it back to the rear most hole this must give more leverage therefore more pressure again.

Now i'm very confused with comments that this is not a plough attachment, but a finishing disc attachment, can someone explain the main difference? It looks the same as all the many fords i see have attached all over issarn & its part of the package that Kubota/Siam sell for the purpose of ploughing.

Thanks for your advise so far Shaun.

The top link of the three-point is what you are referring to as the "threaded part"...adjusting that thread levels the implement front to back. Raising and lowering the three-point control, along with adjusting that "wheel" on the rear of the implement, will set the depth of the disk.

If you are snapping the right-hand "chain link" it would seem that your implement is pulling too hard to the left, not pulling directly aft of the tractor. That "chain link" is not made to be bearing the load of the working implement, which is appears to be doing.

Try this...with your tractor and implement on a level paved road, such as where you took the photos, slowly lower the implement until the lowest disk blade is just a hair from touching the ground. Now take a look and see how level the disk is...I believe that all blades should be the same distance from the ground, or close to it.

I have been off the farm for quite a few years, but have not forgotten everything...yet. Somewhere I still have have my personal notebooks from operating the combines.

[IsaanAussie]

Shaun,

Check out Maizefarmers posts on tractor/plough set up, should assist greatly. My tractor is much smaller so I am not the right person to advise you, but I question the size of the 3 point linkage. It appears to be a Cat 1 or 2 linkage plough and I thought yours should be larger?

Hope you get it to work, good luck.

Isaanaussie

Hi Isaanaussie

I'm just getting the hang of this forum, i've taken a look at maizefarmers topic's they go back to 2006 no mention of a plough setup topic, you wouldn't have a link would you ??

I'll goggle cat 1/2 do you mean there's a cat 3 etc ?

Cheers for the reply Shaun.

There are Category 1, 2 and 3 linkage setups. My little Iseki is Cat 1. My plough and rotary hitches measure about 24" between centres of the bottom two links. For Cat 2 and 3 hitches this dimension gets bigger. Sorry I have read most of MF's posts but haven't keep records of where and what, sorry.

It seemed to me that if the hitch is narrower than it should be then the power of the tractor combined with any offset loads on the plough maybe causing your chain to break.

[Gary A]

This is the type normally used for plowing.

[Mali1964]

Shaun,

Check out Maizefarmers posts on tractor/plough set up, should assist greatly. My tractor is much smaller so I am not the right person to advise you, but I question the size of the 3 point linkage. It appears to be a Cat 1 or 2 linkage plough and I thought yours should be larger?

Hope you get it to work, good luck.

Isaanaussie

Hi Isaanaussie

I'm just getting the hang of this forum, i've taken a look at maizefarmers topic's they go back to 2006 no mention of a plough setup topic, you wouldn't have a link would you ??

I'll goggle cat 1/2 do you mean there's a cat 3 etc ?

Cheers for the reply Shaun.

There are Category 1, 2 and 3 linkage setups. My little Iseki is Cat 1. My plough and rotary hitches measure about 24" between centres of the bottom two links. For Cat 2 and 3 hitches this dimension gets bigger. Sorry I have read most of MF's posts but haven't keep records of where and what, sorry.

It seemed to me that if the hitch is narrower than it should be then the power of the tractor combined with any offset loads on the plough maybe causing your chain to break.

Hi

I've just checked mine it's 36" centre's, so is that cat 2 or 3?

This tractor was bought new from Kubota, i'm sure they would have the correct hitch for this 105 hp, but you never know.

Also regarding chain break i no this is a setup & or misuse thing, because the first driver we had drove for 2 months with no problems, my miss's as just told me he's not to drive the tractor again, but worry's we will have the same problem again driver no understand kubota like ford so much, i told her why do you think i'm on the net so much so when i understand fully i can tell him, not ask the new driver how & why i want it set up in a certain way.

I,m a ex haulage contractor from the UK, so this is all new to me, also i've let the family take care to much thinking they know best after all they have been farmers for many years, big mistake though as they haven't a clue & rely to much on heresay & bullshit.

Thanks again Shaun

[Mali1964]

This is the type normally used for plowing.

Hi Gary

Thanks for photo, starting to make some sense now.

So tell me what are the design purpose's of the 2 different attachment's, other's mention i have a finishing disc not a plough for finishing what???? does this mean you plough with your attachment & then finish with the attachment i have ? i don't think the poor farmer would pay twice per rai or am i totally misunderstood someone please explain in laymans terms please.

Many thanks again Shaun

[Gary A]

I think you have the idea. The first plowing is usually pretty deep and plows down trash. There are usually some big chunks of dirt. Going over it with the finishing disk breaks up the clods. I think it is impossible to make ground ready for planting in one pass with any implement other than a rotary tiller. The rotary tiller is NOT good for turning down trash. It will clog up. I don't have a finishing disc and after plowing and the trash is buried, I follow up with the the rotary tiller.

[Mali1964]

I think you have the idea. The first plowing is usually pretty deep and plows down trash. There are usually some big chunks of dirt. Going over it with the finishing disk breaks up the clods. I think it is impossible to make ground ready for planting in one pass with any implement other than a rotary tiller. The rotary tiller is NOT good for turning down trash. It will clog up. I don't have a finishing disc and after plowing and the trash is buried, I follow up with the the rotary tiller.

Hi Gary

Today i removed all the joints on the hitch assembly to clean them up

& cheak things over for my own learnin curve.

Everything was dry & tight, not been oiled after it was last washed & parked up 2 months ago now.

On removing the left hand side drop bar, which i now know on smaller tractors this is not adjustable its a fixed bar, with a left & right hand threaded adjusting bar on the right only.

This is the bar someone as screwed out, which does not give more downward pressure on the plough as i thought, it stops the height of the plough going up so high, i can only think this was done to save time waiting for the plough to lower as its now closer to the ground do you think i have the idea right, the problem though is now it won't fit on the bloody hino, so i thought i,ll put it back, but the butcher that did it as <deleted> up the threads some how, it will screw out further with force but stops about 2" futher out than when new, i'm not sure if i can get it machined threaded again or i'll have to buy a new one i think a few thousand baht at least.

I then set the right hand bar to level out the plough this is fine after a clean up of the threads.

The upper 3rd point is also fine this is the bar that puts the plough down deeper into the soil right? after lengthing it.

Also the rear trailing wheel on the plough as an adjustment for spring pressur,e this is not being used as its seized solid & left at its lowest postion, do you think i should replace or is this not so important to set?? ie what does it do? I think it helps set the depth of the plough?

Hope you can help cheers Shaun

[mgjackson69]

The threaded portion on the "right-hand bar" is for setting the angle of the implement side-to-side.

The upper bar is NOT for controlling the depth of the implement, it is for setting the angle of the implement fore-and-aft.

The depth is set on this implement by a combination of how far you lower the three-point hitch and the adjustment of the trailing wheel.

For most implements, at working depth you want level side-to-side and front-to-back.

NONE of the theaded adjustments on the three-point hitch are for setting depth.

You need to get everything working properly on the disk. Disassemble that rear wheel and clean it, oil it, get it working freely.

You say the trailing wheel is set at its lowest position? And the upper link was threaded all the way out? There is your problem.

The trailing wheel is holding the implement out of the ground. Rather than fix it, Somchai tried to compensate by adjusting the third link "longer", trying to use that pressure to force the rear of the plow down...hence your breakage.

You need to get everything cleaned up and working freely, everything repaired, then start over with your adjustments. Lower the implement until it is just off the ground, then adjust the threaded parts on the 3-point hitch to get it level side-to-side and front-to-back.

Then tell Somchai to NOT adjust anything else.

And grease the disk on a daily basis when it is being used. You have a grease gun, yes?

Edited September 9, 2008 by mgjackson69

[Mali1964]

The threaded portion on the "right-hand bar" is for setting the angle of the implement side-to-side.

The upper bar is NOT for controlling the depth of the implement, it is for setting the angle of the implement fore-and-aft.

The depth is set on this implement by a combination of how far you lower the three-point hitch and the adjustment of the trailing wheel.

For most implements, at working depth you want level side-to-side and front-to-back.

NONE of the theaded adjustments on the three-point hitch are for setting depth.

You need to get everything working properly on the disk. Disassemble that rear wheel and clean it, oil it, get it working freely.

You say the trailing wheel is set at its lowest position? And the upper link was threaded all the way out? There is your problem.

The trailing wheel is holding the implement out of the ground. Rather than fix it, Somchai tried to compensate by adjusting the third link "longer", trying to use that pressure to force the rear of the plow down...hence your breakage.

You need to get everything cleaned up and working freely, everything repaired, then start over with your adjustments. Lower the implement until it is just off the ground, then adjust the threaded parts on the 3-point hitch to get it level side-to-side and front-to-back.

Then tell Somchai to NOT adjust anything else.

And grease the disk on a daily basis when it is being used. You have a grease gun, yes?

Ok thanks for that.

I have today been playing around & gathered more of what each adjustment does.

I've today set it level with the right bar & put a little slack back in the left & right chains, they had even trapped a bolt into one of the right hand chain links to make it even shorter, so they think these chains should take up the weight/pressure of the implement. Also the main chassie of the impliment was not square with the tractor it was offset to the right, again the chain thing.

They have drove Tractors for 30+ years how could they not know, this is why i've left them to it thinking they know best.

The Kubota guy did teach me 1 thing that these chains, he quoted should have 3/5 cm slak in them is this right?? Now when its off the ground i can shake it around by hand a little, before it was locked solid with the chains.

Ok this trialing wheel adjustment at the moment its scewed down, by screwing this up say 3" adding pressure on the spring what does this do lift the implement up out of the soil more yes?

The hole point of my drivers set up was to give the farmers as much deep ploughing that this finishing disc could acheive,but he as put great strain on everything, no wonder it drank fuel like a fish, anyway he's had the boot, i wanna drive it but not the best idea out here, but i will be keeping an eye on it from now on, now a quick glance from me i can tell what if anything as been adjusted.

Any one have a large plough impliment for sale i don't want to buy a new the miss's now understands even with a falang not everything as to be new lol!

O & yes we have lots of grease & 3 guns as i said its been standing for 2/3months know thats why everything was tight, all nipple points add been greased but what they fail to lube is the pins & bearings on all the joints WD 40 would have help but a smere of grease is now applied.

Many thanks for your conprehensive reply Shaun

[Gary A]

What you are calling the trailing wheel is meant to be a stabilizer to prevent the disk from pulling so hard to the left. The disk is moving all the soil to the right and the stabilizer coulter is obviously not doing its job. That is putting too much strain on right side linkage and breaking the links. This trailing coulter blade must be properly aligned to be able to run as deep as possible in the soil to help prevent the crabbing action. It appears to be angled to much to the right. I should be aligned slightly to the right but more in line with the travel of the tractor. The spring is on there to prevent breakage in case of hitting a rock. And yes, you should be able to move the implement back and forth when it is in the raised position.

Your three point lever should have an adjustable stop. That is where you set the implement depth. The hitch has no down pressure. The hitch will only prevent the implement from going too deep.

Edited September 9, 2008 by Gary A

[mgjackson69]

It seems like you are on the right track.

The Kubota guy is correct, the chains are not to bear load when the implement is working, they are to limit side to side motion. The pulling pressure should be on the three arms, directly along the axis of the tractor, not on the chains. So if everything is adjusted correctly, there should be little or no pressure on the chains when the implement is working.

The rear wheel adjustment is going to be a bit of hit and miss.

You stated that you have the implement leveled side to side. Now loosen the adjustment on the rear wheel so that it will not carry any weight, then lower the implement until it is an inch or so off the ground. If the rear wheel is touching the ground, that is ok, as long as it is not supporting any weight of the implement. Level the implement front to back by adjusting the upper arm of the 3-point hitch. Once you have it level, then lower the implement so that it is resting on the ground.

What you are going to do now is adjust the rear wheel so it lets the implement go into the ground to the desired depth. The spring should compress, and at some point let the wheel will be preventing the implement from going any deeper into the ground. It is hard to tell you how to adjust this not being there, but I think you understand what I am getting at. You need to adjust it, try it out, adjust it again, etc., until the implement is running at the depth that you want.

Once you get the wheel adjusted, when you are plowing you control the depth by how far you lower the three point hitch. You do not just lower the 3-point to its lowest position. The rear wheel will set the depth for the rear of the implement, the right and left lower 3-point arms are controlling the depth of the front of the implement, and the upper 3-point link/arm holds the implement level. This is why I advise to level it first using the upper 3-point arm. Usually there is an adjustable stop of some sort on the 3-point control to help you control the depth.

Most of the pulling is done by the lower arms.

When the implement is at working depth, you want the upper 3-point arm parallel to the lower arms, or as close as you can get it. That is one of the reasons there are multiple mount points for the upper arm, and possibly on the implement also. This will keep the implement level as you make fine depth adjustments with the 3-point control as you are working.

This set up can be a bit tedious, but getting it right before you start the work will make it go a lot better. And you are learning a lot already.

Trying to do deep-plow work with this implement will not only use a lot of fuel, it will also wear your rear tires out faster due to slippage. Those are not cheap.

Get on there and run it...it is not that hard. Once you get the hang of it, you will do as well or better than the guys who have been doing it (poorly) for 30+ years. I like the Thai people, but mechanics, maintenance, and equipment operation is not their strong suit.

If I wasn't headed to Nigeria at the end of the week I would come visit for a few days and help you out with this...I miss the farm sometimes.

Edit: I see Gary A responded while I was posting this. He did a much better job of explaining the "rear wheel" than I did...sound advice from him. And he is correct, the 3-point hitch does not supply down-pressure.

Edited September 9, 2008 by mgjackson69

[Mali1964]

Ok guys i'm really gettin there with this great advice, will get back with some more questions i have tommorow evening' i'm just into my second leo so my spellin will get even worse if i do it tonight lol.

Tommorow i've gotto help clear 30 tons of wood we have bought today at our wood yard, not lookin forward to that right now, no really i love it its done me the world of good.

Mg let me know when you get back from Nigera, ya welcome here anytime were you from in Thailand??

Take care Shaun

[mgjackson69]

When in-country, most of the time I am in Chok Chai, 30 km south of Korat.

I also spend a little time in Bangkok, and some time up at the in-laws in Nong Hin...Mom's house is about a 5 minute drive from "Nakhon Gary A"

[Maizefarmer]

Find the note I wrote last year or year before (on the farming section) - explains how to set-up ploughs on 3pt hitches and the order in which to go about it.

[Mali1964]

Find the note I wrote last year or year before (on the farming section) - explains how to set-up ploughs on 3pt hitches and the order in which to go about it.

Hi there Maizefarmer

I've taken a look & i can not find the post you mention i've done various search's sorry.

Very interesting reading your many helpfull post's though, sorry to here of your accident hope you have recovered well.

Any chance you can send me a link or give me the name of the actual topic.

Thanks Shaun

[Lancashirelad]

Hi Shaun

i've been thinking about this whilst i've been away down the road in the truck.

You seem to have learnt a lot from the good advice given here re the setting up/adjustment of the disc plough.

For clarification:

Top link: adjusts the level of the implement from front to back. Think one poster said about dropping it slightly above level ground and setting it. However remember that once the plough is "set in" to the soil it will be slightly lower than in the above mentioned position and so will tend to tilt back end down. Allow for this in your adjustment.

Link arm adjustment: as said this levels the implement side to side. Now i'm not too sure when using a disc plough, but when using a normal plough your tractor is always leaning as the (usually right) 2 wheels will be in the gully of the last furrow. Hence the need for this adjustment to get the plough back level with the tractor leaning.

Depth: controlled by hydraulic lever setting and the plough's wheel. I'd guess the wheel will alleviate the need to lift the lever if you go through a dip. With an ordinary plough (without wheel) as the tractor starts to incline out of the dip the plough would dig in very deep if not adjusted. Massey Ferguson used to have something called "draft" which compensated for undulations.

Now this was what occured to me over the weekend:

you mention you were having trouble with the link arm check chain snapping. Maybe its adjusted too tight? These check chains are not designed to stop all sideways movement of the link arms, but to stop them fouling the tyres.

Difficult to say without actually seeing it, but you might want to try;

slacking them right off, now push the arms accross (with plough on) until they hit the tyre. Now adjust the opposite side check chain until the arm will just not touch the tyre. Repeat for other side.

This should, along with all the other things you've already done, take some of the strain out of the whole set up.

I think your fuel usage is going to drop noticeably.

[Mali1964]

Hi Shaun

i've been thinking about this whilst i've been away down the road in the truck.

You seem to have learnt a lot from the good advice given here re the setting up/adjustment of the disc plough.

For clarification:

Top link: adjusts the level of the implement from front to back. Think one poster said about dropping it slightly above level ground and setting it. However remember that once the plough is "set in" to the soil it will be slightly lower than in the above mentioned position and so will tend to tilt back end down. Allow for this in your adjustment.

Link arm adjustment: as said this levels the implement side to side. Now i'm not too sure when using a disc plough, but when using a normal plough your tractor is always leaning as the (usually right) 2 wheels will be in the gully of the last furrow. Hence the need for this adjustment to get the plough back level with the tractor leaning.

Depth: controlled by hydraulic lever setting and the plough's wheel. I'd guess the wheel will alleviate the need to lift the lever if you go through a dip. With an ordinary plough (without wheel) as the tractor starts to incline out of the dip the plough would dig in very deep if not adjusted. Massey Ferguson used to have something called "draft" which compensated for undulations.

Now this was what occured to me over the weekend:

you mention you were having trouble with the link arm check chain snapping. Maybe its adjusted too tight? These check chains are not designed to stop all sideways movement of the link arms, but to stop them fouling the tyres.

Difficult to say without actually seeing it, but you might want to try;

slacking them right off, now push the arms accross (with plough on) until they hit the tyre. Now adjust the opposite side check chain until the arm will just not touch the tyre. Repeat for other side.

This should, along with all the other things you've already done, take some of the strain out of the whole set up.

I think your fuel usage is going to drop noticeably.

Hi Lancashire Lad

Thanks for your post very interesting.

Yes i have learnt so much thanks to the many knowledgeable people on this forum,i'm now going to wait until we start working again before i raise anymore question's as messing around in the yard is not the same as out there on the land ploughing, but i have the main idea, enough to argue my corner when the family try to tell me, go sit down have a beer we take care lol.

Kind Regards Shaun