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Prices For Plumbing And Electrical Work And Installation ?


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Posted

I am getting some sparky to put in some cabling, grounding (earthing) etc. and I'm trying to get to grips with what will be a fair price.

Some 16mm cabling from the mains to the house fuse box (say 5m)

Some 10mm cabling for electric shower running from shower to fuse box (say 10m)

40A breaker

63A Saf-T-Cut

Install electric shower.

Open wall where one cold water pipe currently exists. Change outlet to 3 cold water outlet, one to electric heater, one to inside tap, one to outside tap. Run hot water pipe from electric heater to inside mixer and outside mixer.

Install outside stop value for total water inlet. Install two cut offs for outside hot and cold prior to flexible cabling to mixer.

Finally, any ideas what to run as pipes ? Remembering they will be largely encased ? my thoughts are larger plastic tubing with insert flexible cables which could therefore be replaced easily if damaged without opening the wall. If running these pipes, how to seal both ends around the inner flexible pipe ?

Sorry, nearly forgot - repair wall and plaster and re tile.

Cheers for any assistance.

Posted
I am getting some sparky to put in some cabling, grounding (earthing) etc. and I'm trying to get to grips with what will be a fair price.

Some 16mm cabling from the mains to the house fuse box (say 5m)

Some 10mm cabling for electric shower running from shower to fuse box (say 10m)

40A breaker

63A Saf-T-Cut

Install electric shower.

Open wall where one cold water pipe currently exists. Change outlet to 3 cold water outlet, one to electric heater, one to inside tap, one to outside tap. Run hot water pipe from electric heater to inside mixer and outside mixer.

Install outside stop value for total water inlet. Install two cut offs for outside hot and cold prior to flexible cabling to mixer.

Finally, any ideas what to run as pipes ? Remembering they will be largely encased ? my thoughts are larger plastic tubing with insert flexible cables which could therefore be replaced easily if damaged without opening the wall. If running these pipes, how to seal both ends around the inner flexible pipe ?

Sorry, nearly forgot - repair wall and plaster and re tile.

Cheers for any assistance.

I have an idea.

I don't know where you are located but maybe this is worth a try.?

Go to your local PEA Electric office. That's where you order the electric services and such. Go to the desk/counter where you would request info on ordering meters and service and such things and ask them if they have the numbers of 2 or 3 electricians in your immediate area that can do the work. They most likely have some folks that they always see and use even for PEA work. Then call these folks and get some bids.

The same idea may work for your local water company and their plumbers that they know.

If you have used a builder in the past get his recommended person.

If you have a friend in the area ask them.

Go to the local electric shops and ask them.

I think there are several ways to find the people and the price you want to pay.

For electric work use the yellow pvc pipe Very cheap to buy. Have the installer use a mini grinder cut channels down the walls from above the ceilings and then lay the pipes in these channels down to the locations of a box installed in the wall near the device or behind it what ever works. All pipe joints should use fittings and radius's as needed. They do not like to use glue on these pipes but insist on it. The pipe will stub out above the ceiling and then continue across the ceiling area to get to the panel and then the process repeats down to the panel as needed. The run of pipe and wire ideally should be continuous with no boxes or splices above the ceiling. If any splices are made they should be in a box with cover and some type of splice connector used and not just twisted and taped. This box and splice must be accessible for future service needs.

As for the water pipes use the blue pvc for cold water and for hot water there is pvc available as well as "stainless" steel. A decent waterman will know where to buy. I am not familiar with the install practices for water pipes but from what I see the same thing is done. A channel is cut into the walls and then the pipe encased in that and run down to and through the floor or crawl space or through the wall and then around the base of the outside walls to where it needs to connect.

Your house and site will sort of dictate what needs to be done. These Thai installers can be very cleaver but they need to be watched closely.

Hope some of this helps

Posted

I have some more info for you to digest. I wen shopping at HomePro in Rayong today for some things but while there I checked on some prices for you.

16mm wire = 108 bt/meter

10mm wire = 70 bt/meter

50A breaker for a panel = 278 bt I could not see a single pole 40A breaker but they did have a double pole model

63A Main panel breaker = 1100 bt

Yellow electric pvc half inch x 4 meters = 52 bt

yellow pvc 1 inch x 4 meters = 120 bt

assorted bends and other fittings average about 10 to 50 baht.

They also had a white "high impact" pvc for electric at a slightly higher cost per 4 meter length.

Hope this helps also.

Posted

Hot water gets run through CPVC or galvanized iron pipe.

If it's only 1 meter use stainless braided flexy hose with the nuts already crimped on.

Posted

I agree with the flexi hose but Mr Plumber has put metal pipes in for hot and plastic for cold.

I feel I should have just knocked a big hole in the wall and done it myself. It really is not rocket science at this level of complexity.

Plumber came in at about Bt3400 but has screwed up (not chased pipes deeply enough) and the sparky who came from the shop who we bought the shower from cost Bt300 plus the cost of the 16mm wiring which was Bt75 a metre and ran 25 metres.

I guess the 25mm wiring to the grid will be about Bt100 a metre but el thievo the electric office will want a hefty slice on top of that.

I'll update as it progresses.

Thanks for all the input.

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