Bodhgaya: The Buddhist Haj?

[Xangsamhua]

I guess this is not really the site for a travelogue, but I've just returned from a visit to India that included some time at Bodhgaya and Sarnath (Buddhists will know the former as the site of the Buddha's enlightenment and the latter as the location of the first sermon - the "turning of the wheel") and I'm reflecting on the value of pilgrimage to Buddhists.

I can't help but compare a visit to Bodhgaya with the Haj. Of course they are different; the former probably less about identity and honour (there is no equivalent in Buddhism to the term Hajji or Hajja, given to one who has completed the Haj) than about personal inspiration and, I suppose, merit-making, but in one respect they are similar. Whereas Mecca draws all Muslims, Shia as well as Sunni, Bodhgaya draws all Buddhists, regardless of tradition.

It was such an uplifting experience to be at the Mahabodi Vihara in Bodhgaya amongst pilgrims from Thailand, Burma, Sri Lanka and Vietnam, who came in groups, as well as Indians (who may have been Hindu) and various Caucasians, some of whom were monastics. Tibetan monastics were there in numbers, many with their boards for prostration, as were a small number of monastics from Chinese traditions. The focus of attention is the Bodhi tree, around which, when I was there, suttas were being chanted by Thai, Sri Lankan and Burmese groups simultaneously, while a continuing trail of people circumambulated the Vihara.

There are few religious structures and locations that have given me the sense of being a "sacred site". Notre Dame in Paris was one (the first time only) and Canterbury and Chartres Cathedrals are awesome, though I'm not sure about "sacred". I'm sure it depends on how one is at the time. However, I did have a sense that the Mahabodi Vihara is a sacred site. Not that it's particularly beautiful - in parts it's a bit tacky - but the pilgrims bring the sacred with them, to add to the site's intrinsic honour as the place of the Buddha's enlightenment.

Unlike Islam, there is no real imperative for Buddhists to make pilgrimage to the holy sites, though it is commendable if they do. Unlike the Haj, too, the four primary sites of Buddhist pilgrimage (Bodhgaya, Sarnath, Lumbhini and Kushinagara) are not confined to a compact area. They are all some hundreds of kilometres apart (and does the fact that no one really knows the location of Kapilavattu take some gloss off a pilgrimage to Lumbhini?)

So Buddhists are not expected to go on pilgrimage to the place where it all started and they don't acquire an honorific title by doing so; however, intrepid pilgrims, mainly monastic, have been making what used to be an arduous and dangerous journey to the holy sites for more than 2000 years. It is now easy, only a 3-hour flight from Bangkok to Gaya (near Bodhgaya) and a 250 kilometre drive along the national highway to Varanasi (near Sarnath). I found the visits to these two sites, especially the former, very moving and would recommend them to any Buddhist or student of Buddhism.

Edited October 19, 2009 by Xangsamhua

[phetaroi]

I guess this is not really the site for a travelogue, but I've just returned from a visit to India that included some time at Bodhgaya and Sarnath (Buddhists will know the former as the site of the Buddha's enlightenment and the latter as the location of the first sermon - the "turning of the wheel") and I'm reflecting on the value of pilgrimage to Buddhists.

I enjoyed reading this post. A couple of questions based on a documentary I was watching just last evening that was about 14 years old.

First, Bodhgaya was described (and in the pictures it looked like) it was very rural with little there other than the temple itself. It was predicted that much would "soon" be built around it (a golf course, hotels, etc.). What did you find beyond the temple walls?

Second, and you alluded to this...what was the safety factor from beginning to end?

Thanks so much!

[Xangsamhua]

I guess this is not really the site for a travelogue, but I've just returned from a visit to India that included some time at Bodhgaya and Sarnath (Buddhists will know the former as the site of the Buddha's enlightenment and the latter as the location of the first sermon - the "turning of the wheel") and I'm reflecting on the value of pilgrimage to Buddhists.

I enjoyed reading this post. A couple of questions based on a documentary I was watching just last evening that was about 14 years old.

First, Bodhgaya was described (and in the pictures it looked like) it was very rural with little there other than the temple itself. It was predicted that much would "soon" be built around it (a golf course, hotels, etc.). What did you find beyond the temple walls?

Second, and you alluded to this...what was the safety factor from beginning to end?

Thanks so much!

Hi Phetaroi

Bodhgaya is still pretty rural. The "downtown" area is located just near the Mahabodi Vihara itself and seems to consist largely of guesthouses, small hotels, coffee shops, internet cafes and the like. The main centre is Gaya, a short drive from Bodhgaya and where the international airport is located (and that's nothing more than a regional airport plus customs and immigration facilities). There are a couple of bigger hotels five or ten minutes' drive from the Vihara - about 3 to 3.5 stars. I don't know about the golf course.

Apart from the Vihara, various temples are scattered about Bodhgaya - Thai, Lao (under construction), Tibetan, Japanese, Bhutanese, Chinese. I don't recollect seeing a Khmer, Vietnamese or Sri Lankan temple, but maybe we weren't taken to them if there were any.

You can also go out to Sujata Village, where the maiden Sujata gave the Buddha rice cakes and milk to break his fast. There is a small school there (about 120 children) run by a young teachers' college graduate with 3 or 4 teachers working for US$20 a month. This was initiated with the help of a Thai monk who raised money from Thai laypeople and depends on a continuing flow of small donations. The children, boys and girls alike, will greet you with "Sawasdee Kha" . Some of the little children are from elsewhere, attracted to Bodhgaya for the begging income from tourists, but have since been taken up by the village and school. When we were there, the principal was looking for another 4000 rupees (3000 baht) to buy a computer for the school.

I don't think safety is an issue in Bodhgaya. I was referring to the past, when sea travel was hazardous and road travel was plagued with banditry. Secondary roads in isolated areas are still subject to banditry at night, but in urban areas and on national highways at any time there is no problem. Driving is pretty chaotic, with little apparent regard for rules or road sense, but I didn't see any accidents other than a truck that had gone into the ditch and we travelled hundreds of kilometres by road.

Hope this helps.

Xangsamhua

[sabaijai]

I've made several visits to Bodh Gaya. The first was in 1977, the most recent in 2006.

You might say it was semi-rural in the 70s, but today it's quite a congested, crowded and dirty town, with a spotty variety of places to stay and eat. I think a lot of travellers come away quite disappointed with the town.

The Mahabodhi Stupa is still very impressive but once you've seen it there's not much to keep you there unless you're on retreat. The most famous one is led by Christopher Titmus every Jan/Feb. The 2010 dates were recently announced here:

http://www.bodhgayaretreats.org/

Even if you aren't on retreat, I recommend staying in one of the Buddhist retreat accommodations, rather than any of the handful of hotels and guesthouses in town, which tend to be rather poor value.

Sarnath is much more like some people imagine Bodh Gaya to be. Kushinagara even more so.

THAI has direct flight from Bangkok to BG.

There is an informative website:

http://www.bodhgayanews.net/

One other thing, if you go from BG to Varanasi, take the train as it's faster and more comfortable than bus or taxi.

[Birdman]

Have done a retreat there at the Bangladesh temple. 1 hour seating mediation 6 times per day. That alternating with walking mediation. Vegetarian food, tea for dinner. Speaking, music, reading, writing, leaving your room etc etc not allowed...

Actually one could do that everywhere, but staying in Bodhgaya helps...

Took also the train from there to Varanasi and was happy to get a tiny spot on the overhead storage place on that really crowded train full with countless impressive majestic looking Sadhus,

Edited October 21, 2009 by Birdman

[khaowong1]

I am really wanting to take this trip.. does anyone recommend a tour package for this? I would like to go either next April or May.. from Bangkok... I am a Buddhist monk and think this would be good for my practice... maybe not? but what the heck, I would still like to go.. so would my abbot... we would go together...

[Xangsamhua]

I am really wanting to take this trip.. does anyone recommend a tour package for this? I would like to go either next April or May.. from Bangkok... I am a Buddhist monk and think this would be good for my practice... maybe not? but what the heck, I would still like to go.. so would my abbot... we would go together...

I'm sure Sabaijai and others who've done retreats there can give you good advice. I went with my wife, and the Indian tour organizers, though they looked after us well, may not be as sensitive to the needs of Thai monks. (We were going to places like the Taj as well.)

There must be a number of Thai companies organising pilgrimage tours. I had a quick look on the net and found this one: http://www.somkuantour.com/index.php?lay=s...e&Id=361795

There were groups of Thai pilgrims at Bodhgaya and Sarnath when we were there, and they were visiting all four main pilgrimage sites. We got the tour leader's phone number, but no details (it was a fleeting conversation). My wife can ring her if you would like to know more.

April and May are rather hot (maximums 40-45 degrees). October - February would be better, but it gets crowded from November on, I was told.

Good luck

Xangsamhua

Edited October 25, 2009 by Xangsamhua

[khaowong1]

I am really wanting to take this trip.. does anyone recommend a tour package for this? I would like to go either next April or May.. from Bangkok... I am a Buddhist monk and think this would be good for my practice... maybe not? but what the heck, I would still like to go.. so would my abbot... we would go together...

I'm sure Sabaijai and others who've done retreats there can give you good advice. I went with my wife, and the Indian tour organizers, though they looked after us well, may not be as sensitive to the needs of Thai monks. (We were going to places like the Taj as well.)

There must be a number of Thai companies organising pilgrimage tours. I had a quick look on the net and found this one: http://www.somkuantour.com/index.php?lay=s...e&Id=361795

There were groups of Thai pilgrims at Bodhgaya and Sarnath when we were there, and they were visiting all four main pilgrimage sites. We got the tour leader's phone number, but no details (it was a fleeting conversation). My wife can ring her if you would like to know more.

April and May are rather hot (maximums 40-45 degrees). October - February would be better, but it gets crowded from November on, I was told.

Good luck

Xangsamhua

thank you Xangsamhua, I appreciate this information...

[sabaijai]

I've stayed before at the International Meditation Center, where they allow you to stay for as many days as you like. Meditation there is taught by the highly respected Ven Rastrapal Mahathera.

The Bodhgaya International Vipassana Meditation Centre offers 10-day retreats in U Ba Khin/Goenka style instruction, and you are also welcome to stay there on personal retreat for shorter or longer intervals:

http://www.bodhi.dhamma.org/

The annual Christopher Timuss retreats held at the Thai monastery (next ones in Jan/Feb 2010) are famous:

http://www.bodhgayaretreats.org/

For visitors interested in the Tibetan tradition, the Root Institute comes highly recommended:

http://www.rootinstitute.com/meditation-course/faq.html