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It made me remember of a time like 20 years ago in the US I was in a department store talking to one of the salesmen in the speaker room and he kept referring to the tweeter as a "Driver".. "this one has a really strong dirver...the speakers out side this room don't have drivers" i didn't think much of it at the time but I guess thats why some hifi buffs will refer to the tweeter as a "driver".

A "compression driver" is generally refering (however not limited to - horn loaded subs/bass bins for example) to a mid to high frequency device that directs sonic energy from the tranducer, through a small aperture, into horn assembly which controls dispersion/directivity.

Mainly used in PA systems where high efficiency is more of a requirenment than sonic clarity.

A large format high frequency compression driver will have usually have an SPL rating of around 105 - 112 dB 1w/1m.

High frequency units in domestic/HiFI applications tend more to the dome, cone or piezo-electric type (not really used for HiFi application due to highly un-predictable impedance charachteristics) , mainly for clarity & production cost.

Dome and cone HF transducers tend to have SPL ratings between 88 - 92 dB 1w/1m.

As a rough comparisson, a HF compression driver's output is between 4 - 8 times as loud as a domestic dome or cone HF transducer.

.....................

Passive crossover networks do not contain semiconductors.

They may contain a capacitor, or inductor or multiples of depending on the network order. in addition there may be resistors, thermistors and even light bulbs.

A standard 2 way/fourth order network (24 dB per octave) with LF impedance equalisation, HF attenuation, and built in protection will contain 4 nodes of inductors, 5 nodes of capacitors, 3 nodes of resistors, and maybe some thermistors or light bulbs depending on the deigners protection spec.

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2 wires and middle part-i think correct term is resistor, the resistor went between 1 (of the 2) wire and the one of the contacts on the tweeter , but cant remember if it connected to (-) or (+), i just did it like the old one was wired

Posted
I'd say everything makes difference. Sometimes I wonder if even the weather might make the difference. I can tell my stereo doesn't sound all that same when I play it, mainly depending upon the quality of the AC mains. I live in a condominium and I can tell when on long holiday like new year and Songkran (when half the residents spend holidays away from condo) the sound quality is significantly improved with less noise contamination in AC mains. That is, even though I use a line conditioner and other power purification device regularly.

I am a complete amateur in this area but I wonder if you can use a Powerpack that you use for your computer to take away spikes and variations in the power ?

As I said, novice, and I still have my old harman/kardon 630 from the 70´es and the speakers that came with it.

:):D:D

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