Toyota Hilux Parked For 2 Years

[Klarre]

Hello

My partner has a Toyota Hilux Vigo 2005 wich has been

parked for almost 2 years now in a garage in Thailand, isaan.

I know that we have to buy new tiers and a new battery.

I dont think the tank was topped up when we parked the car last time.

What else do you think we have to change or do?

Im worried about moisture in the tank.

There might be someone who has been in the same situation as we are in before?

All advises are welcome.

Thank you.

Edited February 1, 2011 by Klarre

[John 1]

You will get so much advise to change this and that but from my experience I left a Holden car for 4 years not touched put a battery in started and no problem same in Thailand left a Suzuki for 3 years no problem half tank of petrol, your is diesel so should not be a problem. As for tyre should be OK if not flat.

[powderpuff]

You'll get flat spots in elec items like starters & alternators but just run that tiill they quit. I would want to get the wheel / axle bearings repacked in grease. I would want to take it to an alignment shop to check the suspension steering bushings. Replace with poly if they're bad. Maybe a change of gear oil in the trans & differential. New fuel filter & then again after 1000 km. In the old days Thailand pickups had oil water seperators. Mine has both.

Edited February 2, 2011 by powderpuff

[powderpuff]

Be sure & check the fan belts & hoses for dry rot. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

[H2oDunc]

I would change all the fluids in the car, the tyres and stick new belts and a battery on it and thats about it. Should be good to go.

[katabeachbum]

I would drain the diesel tank. 2 years old diesel/B5 with condense can be seriuosly contaminated. Change the fuel filter too. Then start up with new diesel.

Run it warm, change engine oil and filter, drain fuel filter for water if any, and the rest only as needed

[denboy]

reading your post it would appear that you are not into car mechanics etc. My advice would be to just check all the fluids, pump up the tyres if possible, give a jump start.

Seeing as you are in Isaan there are plenty of dirt tracks to drive around steadily and see what develops.

Or alternatively get a local garage to give a full service and check over. You are only talking about a few thousand Baht for a service and check.. The second option is probably worth doing even if you manage to get it mobile yourself.

Better be safe than sorry.

[transam]

You might have tyre probs as probably you might have flat spots if the tyres were not over inflated for storage. Change oil and filter. Could have water in fuel tank, depends on how much diesel in tank before it was left. If me l would fill it up and then release water from the filter thingy. Your hand book will tell you how.

[backfromouterspace]

I would just try starting it, if it goes then great. If it doesn't, then change stuff.

( Maybe I've been here too long.)

[katabeachbum]

You might have tyre probs as probably you might have flat spots if the tyres were not over inflated for storage. Change oil and filter. Could have water in fuel tank, depends on how much diesel in tank before it was left. If me l would fill it up and then release water from the filter thingy. Your hand book will tell you how.

I would not take the risk of sucking 2 year old diesel of unknown quality and possibly separated palmoil (B5) and possible diesel bugs into my commonrail. Drain it, Drain &replace fuelfilter. 10 liter of fresh fuel. good to start

[whybother]

I would get a new car.

[Klarre]

Thanks alot guys for the adviices.

My plan is to change tires and the battery and then call a tow truck to take it to Toyota and let them know about the situation.

Although my partners relative is a car mechanic, but somehow i trust a Toytota service place more.

Im so worried about moisture/water in the tank.

I guess thats the best option for me since im not a car mechanic. :jap:

[katabeachbum]

Thanks alot guys for the adviices.

My plan is to change tires and the battery and then call a tow truck to take it to Toyota and let them know about the situation.

Although my partners relative is a car mechanic, but somehow i trust a Toytota service place more.

Im so worried about moisture/water in the tank.

I guess thats the best option for me since im not a car mechanic. :jap:

water itself in the tank isnt a major problem, as it will be caught in the water separator/fuel filter. Concern is the dieselbugs living from water and diesel, and possible separation of aggressive biodiesel and diesel. Thats why I would drain tank totally before starting engine

[NanLaew]

Is all this rigmarole just because it's a wimpy Toyota? It's been in covered parking <deleted>.

If the tires are still round, just jump start it and take it for a spin away from the main roads. At low-speed, pump the brakes a few times to get whatever in the tank sloshing around then the first stop is to fill it up. Second stop is to get a battery. May as well get some wiper blades as they will probably fall apart the first time you try and wash the windscreen. I doubt there will be issues with tires and belts, etc. After a week, take it in for a service. End of.

[bkksw]

Sitting for two years in a garage for a modern car isn't an issue. If the oil and fuel were quality to begin with, those won't be an issue either. If the tires were anywhere near normal pressures flat spots won't be an issue. Actually, 'flat spots' are a bit of a myth. The myth started with big rig trucks which are really heavy, and often loaded to be more heavy (trailers), using a certain long wearing compound unique to these types of tires.. would develop flat spots after just a few weeks. What no one mentions, is that if the tire is otherwise fine these flat spots will work themselves out after you drive 30-40lkm. I've been storing cars for a long time (performance cars, collector cars, and regular utility cars) and flat spots have never been an issue. Even a battery in good condition can easily sit for two years and be brought back to normal condition with a proper charge. Chances are you're worrying over nothing.

Inflate the tires, charge the battery, check the fuel (you can easily tell if diesel has went bad) and drive it to Toyota for its next scheduled service. Mention its been sitting and ask for an inspection if you must..

You're most likely to incur more damage from rat infestation, corrosion, and even flying things building nests where they shouldn't be.. than flat spots and bad fuel..

[Lickey]

The OP says "she knows she will have to replace tyres and battery" why? well because they are already worn out or old, personally, i would think about the clutch plate stuck to the flywheel, and the handbrake, shoes stuck to the drum, rusted discs ect.,

I would change the fuel and filter, all fuel degenerates after a period, Same with engine oil, dont start it, drain it and flush engine with a cleaning oil, drain and put correct oil and filter in and on engine,

As for the interior [cab] hot cold, rain humidity, good lucxk with that.....

[bkksw]

The OP says "she knows she will have to replace tyres and battery" why? well because they are already worn out or old, personally, i would think about the clutch plate stuck to the flywheel, and the handbrake, shoes stuck to the drum, rusted discs ect.,

I would change the fuel and filter, all fuel degenerates after a period, Same with engine oil, dont start it, drain it and flush engine with a cleaning oil, drain and put correct oil and filter in and on engine,

As for the interior [cab] hot cold, rain humidity, good lucxk with that.....

If you're going to wrap quote marks around something then it should be accurate. This is the actual quote "I know that we have to buy new tiers and a new battery."

It doesn't say 'she', doesn't say why, though you may be right.. But if they were serviceable before storage, they'll be serviceable now. They should be at least fine to get him to Toyota to get them changed.

It's true corrosion can cause all you say, but it's not a big deal. Rotors rust minutes after running them through water and parking in the sun.. if they're not stuck, they'll soon self clean as they normally do as the 'abrasive' brake pads clean them up. If the truck rolls by hand, none of these things will be a problem.

A garage is a lot different than sitting out in the weather, it moderates the temperature and humidity effect considerably.

And yes, unless the oil is broken down (two years won't do this), the car should be ran till warm, then the oil drained and filters/oil replaced. Draining cold oil is rarely done, even in a car sitting for decades. And only if broken down.

There's a show on television called chasing classic cars. The host is an expert car restorer and the show takes us with him on his finds and all that goes with that. A recent show showed him finding a Ferrari Dino which has been sitting on a wood deck with a tarp walled shelter over it. It had been sitting for 15 years in weather ranging from -20c to in excess of 40c.

On initial inspection the worst they could find was rat nests. They rolled it onto a trailer and took it to his shop. After 15 years, they charged the battery and it tested good, removed the plugs and squirted some WD-40 in each hole and replaced the plugs, the fuel was still good! They had a testing kit. The tires had no flat spots, they were inflated the entire time. After doing the above, and removing the rat nests, they rocked the car in gear to make sure the crankshaft was turning and not frozen.. and then started the car.

He took it on a test drive for about 30 minutes, hadn't even changed the radiator or brake fluids.. He talked about this, in his experience unless the oils or fluids showed signs of breaking down, they were good for testing and starting.. but obviously should be changed. He mentioned the gear box oil, transaxle oil, engine oil, radiator, brakes, power steering, clutch slave fluid, all of it.. He said all the fluids would benefit from a limited amount of use before changing, so they'd drain easier and bring more crap out with them..

I've left cars in my storage back in the states with Stabil in the tanks, and the battery disconnected.. and they all started and ran fine up to 5-6 years later (the longest I went with the modern cars), one even had enough charge left in the battery where it started without a charge..

Two years is nothing if in a protected garage.. The belts and hoses won't crack or break down faster from non-use, than they would being used daily. Most fuels won't break down in two years and for sure oil won't. Hell, the oil in my grandfathers old 49 Willy's was still fine after sitting for 30 years.. so were the gear oils. The gas went bad, the battery went bad (though, we never tested it.. just replaced it), so after draining and refilling the gas tank, disassembling the carb and cleaning/rebuilding it.. the Willy's started right up.. blew a ton of nests and other dirt out the tailpipe.. and even the brakes were fine for the test drive.

[katabeachbum]

The OP says "she knows she will have to replace tyres and battery" why? well because they are already worn out or old, personally, i would think about the clutch plate stuck to the flywheel, and the handbrake, shoes stuck to the drum, rusted discs ect.,

I would change the fuel and filter, all fuel degenerates after a period, Same with engine oil, dont start it, drain it and flush engine with a cleaning oil, drain and put correct oil and filter in and on engine,

As for the interior [cab] hot cold, rain humidity, good lucxk with that.....

If you're going to wrap quote marks around something then it should be accurate. This is the actual quote "I know that we have to buy new tiers and a new battery."

It doesn't say 'she', doesn't say why, though you may be right.. But if they were serviceable before storage, they'll be serviceable now. They should be at least fine to get him to Toyota to get them changed.

It's true corrosion can cause all you say, but it's not a big deal. Rotors rust minutes after running them through water and parking in the sun.. if they're not stuck, they'll soon self clean as they normally do as the 'abrasive' brake pads clean them up. If the truck rolls by hand, none of these things will be a problem.

A garage is a lot different than sitting out in the weather, it moderates the temperature and humidity effect considerably.

And yes, unless the oil is broken down (two years won't do this), the car should be ran till warm, then the oil drained and filters/oil replaced. Draining cold oil is rarely done, even in a car sitting for decades. And only if broken down.

There's a show on television called chasing classic cars. The host is an expert car restorer and the show takes us with him on his finds and all that goes with that. A recent show showed him finding a Ferrari Dino which has been sitting on a wood deck with a tarp walled shelter over it. It had been sitting for 15 years in weather ranging from -20c to in excess of 40c.

On initial inspection the worst they could find was rat nests. They rolled it onto a trailer and took it to his shop. After 15 years, they charged the battery and it tested good, removed the plugs and squirted some WD-40 in each hole and replaced the plugs, the fuel was still good! They had a testing kit. The tires had no flat spots, they were inflated the entire time. After doing the above, and removing the rat nests, they rocked the car in gear to make sure the crankshaft was turning and not frozen.. and then started the car.

He took it on a test drive for about 30 minutes, hadn't even changed the radiator or brake fluids.. He talked about this, in his experience unless the oils or fluids showed signs of breaking down, they were good for testing and starting.. but obviously should be changed. He mentioned the gear box oil, transaxle oil, engine oil, radiator, brakes, power steering, clutch slave fluid, all of it.. He said all the fluids would benefit from a limited amount of use before changing, so they'd drain easier and bring more crap out with them..

I've left cars in my storage back in the states with Stabil in the tanks, and the battery disconnected.. and they all started and ran fine up to 5-6 years later (the longest I went with the modern cars), one even had enough charge left in the battery where it started without a charge..

Two years is nothing if in a protected garage.. The belts and hoses won't crack or break down faster from non-use, than they would being used daily. Most fuels won't break down in two years and for sure oil won't. Hell, the oil in my grandfathers old 49 Willy's was still fine after sitting for 30 years.. so were the gear oils. The gas went bad, the battery went bad (though, we never tested it.. just replaced it), so after draining and refilling the gas tank, disassembling the carb and cleaning/rebuilding it.. the Willy's started right up.. blew a ton of nests and other dirt out the tailpipe.. and even the brakes were fine for the test drive.

disagree on fuel in LOS

ALL fuels in LOS, except normal diesel which is barely available, breaks down within few months. Ethanol separates from petrol and pure Ethanol provides major damage to injection. Biodiesel(plantoil) separates from diesel, and becomes very aggressive to commonrail parts.

But the worst, diesel with condensated water, bugs nest and bugs clogg up commonrail/injection, and can be a nightmare to get rid of. All they need to survive for years is diesel and a few drops of water

[bkksw]

disagree on fuel in LOS

ALL fuels in LOS, except normal diesel which is barely available, breaks down within few months. Ethanol separates from petrol and pure Ethanol provides major damage to injection. Biodiesel(plantoil) separates from diesel, and becomes very aggressive to commonrail parts.

But the worst, diesel with condensated water, bugs nest and bugs clogg up commonrail/injection, and can be a nightmare to get rid of. All they need to survive for years is diesel and a few drops of water

These can be a problem, but a quick look at the separator will let you know if it's an issue.

I stopped running biodiesel here when I learned Thail biodiesel doesn't include any biocides.. Regular diesel is available almost everywhere, but you do have to put extra effort into finding places.

[transam]

The OP says "she knows she will have to replace tyres and battery" why? well because they are already worn out or old, personally, i would think about the clutch plate stuck to the flywheel, and the handbrake, shoes stuck to the drum, rusted discs ect.,

I would change the fuel and filter, all fuel degenerates after a period, Same with engine oil, dont start it, drain it and flush engine with a cleaning oil, drain and put correct oil and filter in and on engine,

As for the interior [cab] hot cold, rain humidity, good lucxk with that.....

If you're going to wrap quote marks around something then it should be accurate. This is the actual quote "I know that we have to buy new tiers and a new battery."

It doesn't say 'she', doesn't say why, though you may be right.. But if they were serviceable before storage, they'll be serviceable now. They should be at least fine to get him to Toyota to get them changed.

It's true corrosion can cause all you say, but it's not a big deal. Rotors rust minutes after running them through water and parking in the sun.. if they're not stuck, they'll soon self clean as they normally do as the 'abrasive' brake pads clean them up. If the truck rolls by hand, none of these things will be a problem.

A garage is a lot different than sitting out in the weather, it moderates the temperature and humidity effect considerably.

And yes, unless the oil is broken down (two years won't do this), the car should be ran till warm, then the oil drained and filters/oil replaced. Draining cold oil is rarely done, even in a car sitting for decades. And only if broken down.

There's a show on television called chasing classic cars. The host is an expert car restorer and the show takes us with him on his finds and all that goes with that. A recent show showed him finding a Ferrari Dino which has been sitting on a wood deck with a tarp walled shelter over it. It had been sitting for 15 years in weather ranging from -20c to in excess of 40c.

On initial inspection the worst they could find was rat nests. They rolled it onto a trailer and took it to his shop. After 15 years, they charged the battery and it tested good, removed the plugs and squirted some WD-40 in each hole and replaced the plugs, the fuel was still good! They had a testing kit. The tires had no flat spots, they were inflated the entire time. After doing the above, and removing the rat nests, they rocked the car in gear to make sure the crankshaft was turning and not frozen.. and then started the car.

He took it on a test drive for about 30 minutes, hadn't even changed the radiator or brake fluids.. He talked about this, in his experience unless the oils or fluids showed signs of breaking down, they were good for testing and starting.. but obviously should be changed. He mentioned the gear box oil, transaxle oil, engine oil, radiator, brakes, power steering, clutch slave fluid, all of it.. He said all the fluids would benefit from a limited amount of use before changing, so they'd drain easier and bring more crap out with them..

I've left cars in my storage back in the states with Stabil in the tanks, and the battery disconnected.. and they all started and ran fine up to 5-6 years later (the longest I went with the modern cars), one even had enough charge left in the battery where it started without a charge..

Two years is nothing if in a protected garage.. The belts and hoses won't crack or break down faster from non-use, than they would being used daily. Most fuels won't break down in two years and for sure oil won't. Hell, the oil in my grandfathers old 49 Willy's was still fine after sitting for 30 years.. so were the gear oils. The gas went bad, the battery went bad (though, we never tested it.. just replaced it), so after draining and refilling the gas tank, disassembling the carb and cleaning/rebuilding it.. the Willy's started right up.. blew a ton of nests and other dirt out the tailpipe.. and even the brakes were fine for the test drive.

disagree on fuel in LOS

ALL fuels in LOS, except normal diesel which is barely available, breaks down within few months. Ethanol separates from petrol and pure Ethanol provides major damage to injection. Biodiesel(plantoil) separates from diesel, and becomes very aggressive to commonrail parts.

But the worst, diesel with condensated water, bugs nest and bugs clogg up commonrail/injection, and can be a nightmare to get rid of. All they need to survive for years is diesel and a few drops of water

And your tale about a Television program on how ' they ' tackle an old find, doesn't mean they are correct or use the correct approach. From your words, their approach wouldn't be mine.

[katabeachbum]

These can be a problem, but a quick look at the separator will let you know if it's an issue.

I stopped running biodiesel here when I learned Thail biodiesel doesn't include any biocides.. Regular diesel is available almost everywhere, but you do have to put extra effort into finding places.

Ptt does not make/distribute/sell regular diesel any more. It contains 3% bio, B5 contains 5% bio.

[transam]

Sitting for two years in a garage for a modern car isn't an issue. If the oil and fuel were quality to begin with, those won't be an issue either. If the tires were anywhere near normal pressures flat spots won't be an issue. Actually, 'flat spots' are a bit of a myth. The myth started with big rig trucks which are really heavy, and often loaded to be more heavy (trailers), using a certain long wearing compound unique to these types of tires.. would develop flat spots after just a few weeks. What no one mentions, is that if the tire is otherwise fine these flat spots will work themselves out after you drive 30-40lkm. I've been storing cars for a long time (performance cars, collector cars, and regular utility cars) and flat spots have never been an issue. Even a battery in good condition can easily sit for two years and be brought back to normal condition with a proper charge. Chances are you're worrying over nothing.

Inflate the tires, charge the battery, check the fuel (you can easily tell if diesel has went bad) and drive it to Toyota for its next scheduled service. Mention its been sitting and ask for an inspection if you must..

You're most likely to incur more damage from rat infestation, corrosion, and even flying things building nests where they shouldn't be.. than flat spots and bad fuel..

So why do dealers over inflate tyres on stored cars .

[katabeachbum]

Sitting for two years in a garage for a modern car isn't an issue. If the oil and fuel were quality to begin with, those won't be an issue either. If the tires were anywhere near normal pressures flat spots won't be an issue. Actually, 'flat spots' are a bit of a myth. The myth started with big rig trucks which are really heavy, and often loaded to be more heavy (trailers), using a certain long wearing compound unique to these types of tires.. would develop flat spots after just a few weeks. What no one mentions, is that if the tire is otherwise fine these flat spots will work themselves out after you drive 30-40lkm. I've been storing cars for a long time (performance cars, collector cars, and regular utility cars) and flat spots have never been an issue. Even a battery in good condition can easily sit for two years and be brought back to normal condition with a proper charge. Chances are you're worrying over nothing.

Inflate the tires, charge the battery, check the fuel (you can easily tell if diesel has went bad) and drive it to Toyota for its next scheduled service. Mention its been sitting and ask for an inspection if you must..

You're most likely to incur more damage from rat infestation, corrosion, and even flying things building nests where they shouldn't be.. than flat spots and bad fuel..

So why do dealers over inflate tyres on stored cars .

flat spots is very much reality on any size of vehicle. All manufactorers supply cars with storage pressure, usually 50% higher than recommended driving pressure and usually similar to the max pressure tyre can handle according to tyres marking on sidewalls. Dealer is to deflate it to recommended driving pressure on delivery check.

flatspots can occure within 3 months if stored at recomended driving pressure. Small spots only detected at high speed, above 160 kmh, as vibration in vehicle. Cure, new round tyres

[transam]

Sitting for two years in a garage for a modern car isn't an issue. If the oil and fuel were quality to begin with, those won't be an issue either. If the tires were anywhere near normal pressures flat spots won't be an issue. Actually, 'flat spots' are a bit of a myth. The myth started with big rig trucks which are really heavy, and often loaded to be more heavy (trailers), using a certain long wearing compound unique to these types of tires.. would develop flat spots after just a few weeks. What no one mentions, is that if the tire is otherwise fine these flat spots will work themselves out after you drive 30-40lkm. I've been storing cars for a long time (performance cars, collector cars, and regular utility cars) and flat spots have never been an issue. Even a battery in good condition can easily sit for two years and be brought back to normal condition with a proper charge. Chances are you're worrying over nothing.

Inflate the tires, charge the battery, check the fuel (you can easily tell if diesel has went bad) and drive it to Toyota for its next scheduled service. Mention its been sitting and ask for an inspection if you must..

You're most likely to incur more damage from rat infestation, corrosion, and even flying things building nests where they shouldn't be.. than flat spots and bad fuel..

So why do dealers over inflate tyres on stored cars .

flat spots is very much reality on any size of vehicle. All manufactorers supply cars with storage pressure, usually 50% higher than recommended driving pressure and usually similar to the max pressure tyre can handle according to tyres marking on sidewalls. Dealer is to deflate it to recommended driving pressure on delivery check.

flatspots can occure within 3 months if stored at recomended driving pressure. Small spots only detected at high speed, above 160 kmh, as vibration in vehicle. Cure, new round tyres

Absolutely, l learned from experience (cost), so my fun ride when not used was on axle stands. If a tyre deflates in storage and the rubber compound for a particular use was soft, then the side walls will crack, and they do. If steel belted, even more probs with distortion.

[BSJ]

Straight diesel can have microbial activity. I hate to think what bio-diesel would be like after 2 years!

Drain it and use the old diesel to spray on weeds before you set fire to them.

[bkksw]

And your tale about a Television program on how ' they ' tackle an old find, doesn't mean they are correct or use the correct approach. From your words, their approach wouldn't be mine.

No, of course not. It depends on the car and the circumstances. But it does illustrate that not all gas goes bad, tires develop flat spots, etc.. just from a few years of storage.

[bkksw]

Sitting for two years in a garage for a modern car isn't an issue. If the oil and fuel were quality to begin with, those won't be an issue either. If the tires were anywhere near normal pressures flat spots won't be an issue. Actually, 'flat spots' are a bit of a myth. The myth started with big rig trucks which are really heavy, and often loaded to be more heavy (trailers), using a certain long wearing compound unique to these types of tires.. would develop flat spots after just a few weeks. What no one mentions, is that if the tire is otherwise fine these flat spots will work themselves out after you drive 30-40lkm. I've been storing cars for a long time (performance cars, collector cars, and regular utility cars) and flat spots have never been an issue. Even a battery in good condition can easily sit for two years and be brought back to normal condition with a proper charge. Chances are you're worrying over nothing.

Inflate the tires, charge the battery, check the fuel (you can easily tell if diesel has went bad) and drive it to Toyota for its next scheduled service. Mention its been sitting and ask for an inspection if you must..

You're most likely to incur more damage from rat infestation, corrosion, and even flying things building nests where they shouldn't be.. than flat spots and bad fuel..

So why do dealers over inflate tyres on stored cars .

First, "dealers" don't store cars. They sell and service them. Every day they sit on any lot the dealer is losing money. Normally, dealers don't keep cars long enough to worry about any of this.

However, what makes you think flat spots have anything to do with it? Well, unless you read the advertisements from people selling tire cradles and such things.

It's common knowledge that unless your running nitrogen in your tires you can lose up to a pound of pressure per month (usually much less) depending on wheel type, bead seating, valve stem condition/quality, and tire type.. so if anyone is storing a car, over inflating for storage purposes helps the car roll easier as they're often moved, but mostly they prevent the tire from becoming under inflated where the real damage can incur. Tire pressure loss isn't linear, but its still a consideration.

My cars in storage all have nitrogen in the tires, and normal pressure, and they're fairly pricey tires.. Never had a flat spot.

[transam]

And your tale about a Television program on how ' they ' tackle an old find, doesn't mean they are correct or use the correct approach. From your words, their approach wouldn't be mine.

No, of course not. It depends on the car and the circumstances. But it does illustrate that not all gas goes bad, tires develop flat spots, etc.. just from a few years of storage.

If the gas was leaded then perhaps fine. IF the tyres did not deflate then perhaps fine but here we are talking LOS.

[bkksw]

flat spots is very much reality on any size of vehicle. All manufactorers supply cars with storage pressure, usually 50% higher than recommended driving pressure and usually similar to the max pressure tyre can handle according to tyres marking on sidewalls. Dealer is to deflate it to recommended driving pressure on delivery check.

flatspots can occure within 3 months if stored at recomended driving pressure. Small spots only detected at high speed, above 160 kmh, as vibration in vehicle. Cure, new round tyres

Old wives tale..

160kmph high speed? You must mean in the driveway..

[bkksw]

And your tale about a Television program on how ' they ' tackle an old find, doesn't mean they are correct or use the correct approach. From your words, their approach wouldn't be mine.

No, of course not. It depends on the car and the circumstances. But it does illustrate that not all gas goes bad, tires develop flat spots, etc.. just from a few years of storage.

If the gas was leaded then perhaps fine. IF the tyres did not deflate then perhaps fine but here we are talking LOS.

LOS doesn't make the tires deflate more than normal.. but I'd agree if they lost pressure damage could be an issue. But I wouldn't assume damage. I'd inflate them to normal pressure, inspect, and then drive them.. All I'm saying is don't assume all tires will go bad.

I've had no issues with unleaded premium going bad.. normally when I put a car up I add Stabil, fill the tank, run it a bit, and then put it up that way. I'll change the fuel after longer them 3-4 years, but it's good enough to drive to servicing. Same with diesel, but this bio-diesel stuff is different.. I wouldn't put up a car with bio in it.