Cockpit Repair Car

[geovalin]

I was told that this chain of repair garages called "COCKPIT" was good.

1- Any feedback?

2- Do they have a website (nothing in Google)?

3- Do you know their locations?

THANK YOU

Edited April 25, 2011 by geovalin

[Spoonman]

First hit on Google searching for "Cockpit Thailand"............

http://www.cockpit.co.th/

Are they any good, Ive no idea.

Edited April 25, 2011 by Spoonman

[kerryk]

I just had an oil change and brake fluid change and turned the drums and replaced the brake pads. It took them a couple of hours, cost 5000 baht including labor. Other than my emergency brake being hard to pull and only having one click to set the job seems OK. I'll let you know after I drive it a while. I am close to Rayong.

[Kwasaki]

I use them all the time now here in sunny Sukhothai.

[WarpSpeed]

I just had an oil change and brake fluid change and turned the drums and replaced the brake pads. It took them a couple of hours, cost 5000 baht including labor. Other than my emergency brake being hard to pull and only having one click to set the job seems OK. I'll let you know after I drive it a while. I am close to Rayong.

Turned the drums ?? That's an oldie innit ?? Unless of course you mean the rears...But I wouldn't turn drums I'd replace them, so cheap here no reason not to and because they're so cheap they really can't stand to be turned much as then they'll over heat and flex....

Edited April 26, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[Spoonman]

I just had an oil change and brake fluid change and turned the drums and replaced the brake pads. It took them a couple of hours, cost 5000 baht including labor. Other than my emergency brake being hard to pull and only having one click to set the job seems OK. I'll let you know after I drive it a while. I am close to Rayong.

Turned the drums ?? That's an oldie innit ?? Unless of course you mean the rears...But I wouldn't turn drums I'd replace them, so cheap here no reason not to and because they're so cheap they really can't stand to be turned much as then they'll over heat and flex....

Turned as in machined maybe, It should always be done when new shoes are fitted.

[WarpSpeed]

I just had an oil change and brake fluid change and turned the drums and replaced the brake pads. It took them a couple of hours, cost 5000 baht including labor. Other than my emergency brake being hard to pull and only having one click to set the job seems OK. I'll let you know after I drive it a while. I am close to Rayong.

Turned the drums ?? That's an oldie innit ?? Unless of course you mean the rears...But I wouldn't turn drums I'd replace them, so cheap here no reason not to and because they're so cheap they really can't stand to be turned much as then they'll over heat and flex....

Turned as in machined maybe, It should always be done when new shoes are fitted.

I understand his meaning in terms of being machined, turning is the proper term where drums are concerned but of course it doesn't apply to disks and pads..

But it isn't required with new drums and if I was replacing the shoes I'd also replace the drums is what I'm saying, turning them also increases the brake peddle travel even with adjustment and won't give you full life on the new shoes as eventually the brake peddle will be too low and require replacing in a shorter time frame again this time with new drums..

His not mentioning anything about disks and pads makes it sound like he has drums all around or doesn't understand that modern cars no longer have front drums.

Edited April 26, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[Kwasaki]

I just had an oil change and brake fluid change and turned the drums and replaced the brake pads. It took them a couple of hours, cost 5000 baht including labor. Other than my emergency brake being hard to pull and only having one click to set the job seems OK. I'll let you know after I drive it a while. I am close to Rayong.

Turned the drums ?? That's an oldie innit ?? Unless of course you mean the rears...But I wouldn't turn drums I'd replace them, so cheap here no reason not to and because they're so cheap they really can't stand to be turned much as then they'll over heat and flex....

Yeah ! He meant brake shoes, many cars and trucks have rear drums as there better for handbrake usage than disc as you probably know.

' Cockpit ' clean the brake drums with a soap and water solution and Inspect the inside surfaces of the drums for heat discoloration, cracks, or large scratches, also if the drums are worn, ' Cockpit ' offers " a while-you-wait service ", in case the brake drums must be machined i.e. " turned ", it is OK to do one time and can be done.

Many of ' Cockpit ' auto repair shops and parts stores have the special lathes and equipment needed for doing brake machine work.

They have also got up to date wheel alignment computer systems.

[floridaguy]

Do they do much engine and other work, besides changing oil? I would like Transmission fluid change, new fuel filter, new air filter. Do they do that also? I checked the website but didn't see it listed, unless I missed something?

[Kwasaki]

Do they do much engine and other work, besides changing oil? I would like Transmission fluid change, new fuel filter, new air filter. Do they do that also? I checked the website but didn't see it listed, unless I missed something?

Yep !!! and more, there a list in outlets in English of all the things they do and the prices.

[transam]

I just had an oil change and brake fluid change and turned the drums and replaced the brake pads. It took them a couple of hours, cost 5000 baht including labor. Other than my emergency brake being hard to pull and only having one click to set the job seems OK. I'll let you know after I drive it a while. I am close to Rayong.

Turned the drums ?? That's an oldie innit ?? Unless of course you mean the rears...But I wouldn't turn drums I'd replace them, so cheap here no reason not to and because they're so cheap they really can't stand to be turned much as then they'll over heat and flex....

Turned as in machined maybe, It should always be done when new shoes are fitted.

I understand his meaning in terms of being machined, turning is the proper term where drums are concerned but of course it doesn't apply to disks and pads..

But it isn't required with new drums and if I was replacing the shoes I'd also replace the drums is what I'm saying, turning them also increases the brake peddle travel even with adjustment and won't give you full life on the new shoes as eventually the brake peddle will be too low and require replacing in a shorter time frame again this time with new drums..

His not mentioning anything about disks and pads makes it sound like he has drums all around or doesn't understand that modern cars no longer have front drums.

Must disagree about skimming drums alters pedal travel. Shoe adjustment is mechanical inside the drum. Brake pedal is hydraulic which finishes at the wheel cylinders. Of course if you over machine drums too much the risk of piston ''pop out'' is there but the hydraulics will always take up the slack between the piston and and shoe tang to leave a firm pedal.

[WarpSpeed]

I just had an oil change and brake fluid change and turned the drums and replaced the brake pads. It took them a couple of hours, cost 5000 baht including labor. Other than my emergency brake being hard to pull and only having one click to set the job seems OK. I'll let you know after I drive it a while. I am close to Rayong.

Turned the drums ?? That's an oldie innit ?? Unless of course you mean the rears...But I wouldn't turn drums I'd replace them, so cheap here no reason not to and because they're so cheap they really can't stand to be turned much as then they'll over heat and flex....

Yeah ! He meant brake shoes, many cars and trucks have rear drums as there better for handbrake usage than disc as you probably know.

' Cockpit ' clean the brake drums with a soap and water solution and Inspect the inside surfaces of the drums for heat discoloration, cracks, or large scratches, also if the drums are worn, ' Cockpit ' offers " a while-you-wait service ", in case the brake drums must be machined i.e. " turned ", it is OK to do one time and can be done.

Many of ' Cockpit ' auto repair shops and parts stores have the special lathes and equipment needed for doing brake machine work.

They have also got up to date wheel alignment computer systems.

I see now what's happening here, when I said "that's an oldie" I meant the vehicle, not the term "turning". His post makes it sound like he has an older car that still has drums on all 4 corners since he didn't specify the rears....

[kerryk]

I guess I should have said, rear drums front disk.

[WarpSpeed]

I understand his meaning in terms of being machined, turning is the proper term where drums are concerned but of course it doesn't apply to disks and pads..

But it isn't required with new drums and if I was replacing the shoes I'd also replace the drums is what I'm saying, turning them also increases the brake peddle travel even with adjustment and won't give you full life on the new shoes as eventually the brake peddle will be too low and require replacing in a shorter time frame again this time with new drums..

His not mentioning anything about disks and pads makes it sound like he has drums all around or doesn't understand that modern cars no longer have front drums.

Must disagree about skimming drums alters pedal travel. Shoe adjustment is mechanical inside the drum. Brake pedal is hydraulic which finishes at the wheel cylinders. Of course if you over machine drums too much the risk of piston ''pop out'' is there but the hydraulics will always take up the slack between the piston and and shoe tang to leave a firm pedal.

There's a shock, you disagree ? Surely not ! What I said is true, disagree or not it's up to you..

You're right the hydraulics do cover it and how do they take up the slack? By requiring more brake fluid by depressing the brake peddle harder due to the shoe having to travel further it requires more peddle to move the required fluid necessary to fully apply the brakes. Yes initially the brakes will be harder as they've been manually adjusted but in a far shorter period then new brakes and drums the adjustment will be out and the peddle will be softer significantly sooner.

The tolerances are tight so not much room for material loss due to turning and besides I mentioned several other reasons to avoid turning drums so why argue one minor point as if they don't all apply as a group?

Oh forgot you're T/A and it isn't "skimming" it's "turning" or "machining" as Spoonman said.. You see, in road racing we actually have to use our brakes at every corner several times per lap for multiple laps and even up to 24 hours unlike straight line racing which uses them one time and then the car gets gone over completely for the next run in an hour or so, we also don't have parachutes nor 1/8th mile run off areas .

[WarpSpeed]

I guess I should have said, rear drums front disk.

It would have helped but moreover I was just funnin with ya, it's a few others who took me too seriously, but anyway I mucked it up too by not clarifying that I was talking about the car being an "Oldie" suggesting it had 4 wheel drums not the term "turning" in my urgency to post with some household distractions.

Edited April 26, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[transam]

I understand his meaning in terms of being machined, turning is the proper term where drums are concerned but of course it doesn't apply to disks and pads..

But it isn't required with new drums and if I was replacing the shoes I'd also replace the drums is what I'm saying, turning them also increases the brake peddle travel even with adjustment and won't give you full life on the new shoes as eventually the brake peddle will be too low and require replacing in a shorter time frame again this time with new drums..

His not mentioning anything about disks and pads makes it sound like he has drums all around or doesn't understand that modern cars no longer have front drums.

Must disagree about skimming drums alters pedal travel. Shoe adjustment is mechanical inside the drum. Brake pedal is hydraulic which finishes at the wheel cylinders. Of course if you over machine drums too much the risk of piston ''pop out'' is there but the hydraulics will always take up the slack between the piston and and shoe tang to leave a firm pedal.

There's a shock, you disagree ? Surely not ! What I said is true, disagree or not it's up to you..

You're right the hydraulics do cover it and how do they take up the slack? By requiring more brake fluid by depressing the brake peddle harder due to the shoe having to travel further it requires more peddle to move the required fluid necessary to fully apply the brakes. Yes initially the brakes will be harder as they've been manually adjusted but in a far shorter period then new brakes and drums the adjustment will be out and the peddle will be softer significantly sooner.

The tolerances are tight so not much room for material loss due to turning and besides I mentioned several other reasons to avoid turning drums so why argue one minor point as if they don't all apply as a group?

Oh forgot you're T/A and it isn't "skimming" it's "turning" or "machining" as Spoonman said.. You see, in road racing we actually have to use our brakes at every corner several times per lap for multiple laps and even up to 24 hours unlike straight line racing which uses them one time and then the car gets gone over completely for the next run in an hour or so, we also don't have parachutes nor 1/8th mile run off areas .

Sorry chum you are wrong, please read my explanation again. When new/stock, the drum will perhaps be 11 inch inside diameter, shoes will have perhaps 90% contact area. Machine drum, then contact area will be perhaps 70% with shoe UNTIL shoe wears down to FIT drum. Hydraulics WILL take up the slack and have NO impact on pedal pressure. Drum/shoe adjustment has been automatic since the 70's, MECHANICAL, The pedal is hydraulic. THATS WHY YOU TOP THE FLUID UP WITH PAD AND SHOE WEAR.

[WarpSpeed]

I understand his meaning in terms of being machined, turning is the proper term where drums are concerned but of course it doesn't apply to disks and pads..

But it isn't required with new drums and if I was replacing the shoes I'd also replace the drums is what I'm saying, turning them also increases the brake peddle travel even with adjustment and won't give you full life on the new shoes as eventually the brake peddle will be too low and require replacing in a shorter time frame again this time with new drums..

His not mentioning anything about disks and pads makes it sound like he has drums all around or doesn't understand that modern cars no longer have front drums.

Must disagree about skimming drums alters pedal travel. Shoe adjustment is mechanical inside the drum. Brake pedal is hydraulic which finishes at the wheel cylinders. Of course if you over machine drums too much the risk of piston ''pop out'' is there but the hydraulics will always take up the slack between the piston and and shoe tang to leave a firm pedal.

There's a shock, you disagree ? Surely not ! What I said is true, disagree or not it's up to you..

You're right the hydraulics do cover it and how do they take up the slack? By requiring more brake fluid by depressing the brake peddle harder due to the shoe having to travel further it requires more peddle to move the required fluid necessary to fully apply the brakes. Yes initially the brakes will be harder as they've been manually adjusted but in a far shorter period then new brakes and drums the adjustment will be out and the peddle will be softer significantly sooner.

The tolerances are tight so not much room for material loss due to turning and besides I mentioned several other reasons to avoid turning drums so why argue one minor point as if they don't all apply as a group?

Oh forgot you're T/A and it isn't "skimming" it's "turning" or "machining" as Spoonman said.. You see, in road racing we actually have to use our brakes at every corner several times per lap for multiple laps and even up to 24 hours unlike straight line racing which uses them one time and then the car gets gone over completely for the next run in an hour or so, we also don't have parachutes nor 1/8th mile run off areas .

Sorry chum you are wrong, please read my explanation again. When new/stock, the drum will perhaps be 11 inch inside diameter, shoes will have perhaps 90% contact area. Machine drum, then contact area will be perhaps 70% with shoe UNTIL shoe wears down to FIT drum. Hydraulics WILL take up the slack and have NO impact on pedal pressure. Drum/shoe adjustment has been automatic since the 70's, MECHANICAL, The pedal is hydraulic. THATS WHY YOU TOP THE FLUID UP WITH PAD AND SHOE WEAR.

Well, good luck with that then..

Edited April 26, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[transam]

Must disagree about skimming drums alters pedal travel. Shoe adjustment is mechanical inside the drum. Brake pedal is hydraulic which finishes at the wheel cylinders. Of course if you over machine drums too much the risk of piston ''pop out'' is there but the hydraulics will always take up the slack between the piston and and shoe tang to leave a firm pedal.

There's a shock, you disagree ? Surely not ! What I said is true, disagree or not it's up to you..

You're right the hydraulics do cover it and how do they take up the slack? By requiring more brake fluid by depressing the brake peddle harder due to the shoe having to travel further it requires more peddle to move the required fluid necessary to fully apply the brakes. Yes initially the brakes will be harder as they've been manually adjusted but in a far shorter period then new brakes and drums the adjustment will be out and the peddle will be softer significantly sooner.

The tolerances are tight so not much room for material loss due to turning and besides I mentioned several other reasons to avoid turning drums so why argue one minor point as if they don't all apply as a group?

Oh forgot you're T/A and it isn't "skimming" it's "turning" or "machining" as Spoonman said.. You see, in road racing we actually have to use our brakes at every corner several times per lap for multiple laps and even up to 24 hours unlike straight line racing which uses them one time and then the car gets gone over completely for the next run in an hour or so, we also don't have parachutes nor 1/8th mile run off areas .

Sorry chum you are wrong, please read my explanation again. When new/stock, the drum will perhaps be 11 inch inside diameter, shoes will have perhaps 90% contact area. Machine drum, then contact area will be perhaps 70% with shoe UNTIL shoe wears down to FIT drum. Hydraulics WILL take up the slack and have NO impact on pedal pressure. Drum/shoe adjustment has been automatic since the 70's, MECHANICAL, The pedal is hydraulic. THATS WHY YOU TOP THE FLUID UP WITH PAD AND SHOE WEAR.

Well, good luck with that then..

No luck involved, just knowledge.

[WarpSpeed]

^ Just not interested in arguing the point anymore.. I've explained very clearly..

[Spoonman]

^ Just not interested in arguing the point anymore.. I've explained very clearly..

Yeah clearly you have no clue.

[TommyDee]

1

Edited April 27, 2011 by SecretTom

[WarpSpeed]

^ Just not interested in arguing the point anymore.. I've explained very clearly..

Yeah clearly you have no clue.

More so then you, wish to find out?? Let's go at it..I'll kick your ass on any track, anywhere, in the car of your choosing..

All talk and no action are you? And then after I've embarrassed you you can tell everyone how you got your arse handed to you by someone with "no clue".

Edited April 27, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[WarpSpeed]

Sorry chum you are wrong, please read my explanation again. When new/stock, the drum will perhaps be 11 inch inside diameter, shoes will have perhaps 90% contact area. Machine drum, then contact area will be perhaps 70% with shoe UNTIL shoe wears down to FIT drum. Hydraulics WILL take up the slack and have NO impact on pedal pressure. Drum/shoe adjustment has been automatic since the 70's, MECHANICAL, The pedal is hydraulic. THATS WHY YOU TOP THE FLUID UP WITH PAD AND SHOE WEAR.

The purposes for turning the drum in the first place is so that you have uniform, evenly mated surfaces that don't need to be worn in before full braking capacity, they mate properly from the beginning if done right.. So wrong again...

By the way you could learn to post quotes properly it grows tiresome having to clean up your mess so one can respond..

Geez now I know why I win so much over other supposedly informed technicians with less equipment failures, they're clueless about real life applications.. Never knew it was this widespread but it's like a plague apparently. JFYI regardless of whether or not the peddle is hydraulic or not (which I'm well aware of, having done about 4 or 500 brake jobs in the past 25 years and 4 or 5 of them just in the past year) the mechanism in the drum is all mechanical and requires adjusting properly, they are supposed to be self-adjusting but only when you back up your car hard and pump the brakes to counter-stress the springs and re-seat the shoes even then most don't work as designed..

For example try installing your nice new shoes and then NOT adjusting it once assembled and then tell me if the peddle is soft or not ?? Guarantee it goes all the way to floor and that's just off of a few millimeters out of adjustment It will never come up either regardless of how much you pump or move ANY amount of fluid through their limited distance..You can put all the fluid you want in the reservoir at that point you'll never get a hard peddle .. That's an extreme example of what I'm trying to illustrate in simple terms for simple minds but the same thing happens with any amount of lacking adjustment which occurs far more quickly when drums are turned and not replaced.. Conclusion, a softer peddle..End of..

Edited April 27, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[Kwasaki]

Before another war starts I'm an old spanner and remember being taught this in school when drum brakes were manually adjusted and mechanical self-adjusters came later.

The following is something that some people may not know :-

Always take it easy on new linings for the first couple hundred miles to give them a chance to wear in, it does it quicker by leaving your handbrake on, sorry just my little joke.

New drum brakes need to be adjusted several times during there lifetime as they wear in.

The drum brake self-adjusters normally handle this when the car is driven in reverse and when the brakes are applied.

That said it is always a good idea to perform the initial and servicing adjustment manually.

This is considered standard procedure by most professional mechanics and old spanners like me.

After removing the drums and cleaning etc and nowadays while wearing a mask, refit for adjustment.

This is carried out by using a brake adjusting tool or usually a screwdriver is OK with the parking brake ( handbrake ) off.

The adjusting wheel is then turned until the brake tightens up all the way and then back off the adjustment until the wheel turns freely.

Be sure to back off both brakes the same amount to equalize them.

[Spoonman]

^ Just not interested in arguing the point anymore.. I've explained very clearly..

Yeah clearly you have no clue.

More so then you, wish to find out?? Let's go at it..I'll kick your ass on any track, anywhere, in the car of your choosing..

All talk and no action are you? And then after I've embarrassed you you can tell everyone how you got your arse handed to you by someone with "no clue".

Struth, settle petal put down the crack pipe and have a breath of fresh air.

I give no farks about your prowess on the track but the way you always "big" it up tells me you have insecurity issues.

As for Rear drums on cars, yeah you have no idea go read what you wrote.

[WarpSpeed]

^ Just not interested in arguing the point anymore.. I've explained very clearly..

Yeah clearly you have no clue.

More so then you, wish to find out?? Let's go at it..I'll kick your ass on any track, anywhere, in the car of your choosing..

All talk and no action are you? And then after I've embarrassed you you can tell everyone how you got your arse handed to you by someone with "no clue".

Struth, settle petal put down the crack pipe and have a breath of fresh air.

I give no farks about your prowess on the track but the way you always "big" it up tells me you have insecurity issues.

As for Rear drums on cars, yeah you have no idea go read what you wrote.

So eunuch is it then? I thought as much ... Your posts say it all, always trolling and antagonistic, seldom helpful..

As if I don't know what I wrote ... You're the one NOT comprehending, sadly, seems it may be over your head..

Edited April 27, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[Spoonman]

So eunuch is it then? I thought as much ... Your posts say it all, always trolling and antagonistic, seldom helpful..

Yeah well atleast I understand the working's of a mechanical brake shoe, unlike your self.

[WarpSpeed]

So eunuch is it then? I thought as much ... Your posts say it all, always trolling and antagonistic, seldom helpful..

Yeah well atleast I understand the working's of a mechanical brake shoe, unlike your self.

A brake shoe?? :cheesy:

[Spoonman]

So eunuch is it then? I thought as much ... Your posts say it all, always trolling and antagonistic, seldom helpful..

Yeah well atleast I understand the working's of a mechanical brake shoe, unlike your self.

A brake shoe?? :cheesy:

Thanks for proving my point.

[transam]

As l said before, for the last 40 years drums have been auto adjusted, usually by applying the hand brake which at times when needed mechanically adjusts a screwed bar fitted between the two shoes to MAINTAIN the correct clearance between shoe and drum, this MAINTAINS the pedal.

IF one skims the drum then the inside diameter is increased, but the replacement shoes will be factory size, so in theory the shoes will have less contact area until they wear to the shape of the new ID. This bed/wear in time actually reduces brake efficiency until that happens.

Personally, a drum has to be pretty bad to skim or replace.

Skimming is a machinists term to remove a few thou off of something, whether by milling or lathe, turning is an operation on a lathe, machining is a term for any operation on any machine, such as using a machine to sew the ass in my shorts or making a nice set of ally pulleys.