Question On Mekong Boat To Luang Prabang

[WholeHearted]

Hello.

My friends and I have about 4 days to take the boat to Luang Prabang from Chiang Rai/ Chiang Khlong, and see the place. (We'll fly back to BKK after that.)

How long does the crossing from Chiang Khlong (Thailang) to Huay Xai (Laos) usually take? Will we lose a lot of time in Huay Xai? Does it take a long time in the Lao Immigration office to get the visa, now that it's low season? Are there many boats available in Huay Xai to go to LP? What's the latest time we can leave Huay Xai and still be sure of making it to the stopping point (Pakbeng) before nightfall? Do we need advance reservations? About how much does it cost? Do we need advance reservations at a guesthouse in Pakbeng?

If all this info is already posted somewhere, please let me know.

[craigt3365]

I've not done it, but met people who have. I think the boats are speed boats and I've heard it's a rough ride.

I'm really interested to hear from others also who have done this.

Read this:

http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jeffs/jeffs_adventure/1090292460/tpod.html

[LuukKoeyKorat]

Hi there!

You have three options to travel from Chiang Khong (TH) to Luang Prabang (Laos) - down the Mekong with either speedboat or slowboat, or per bus from Huayxai to LPB after crossing the river. Crossing the Mekong only takes 5 minutes per taxi boat. Not sure the cost but below 100 baht.

I guess you are interested in the river option ...

Both speedboat tickets and slowboat tickets can be purchased from any travel agent in Chiang Khong town. There are not that many travel agents on the 'backpacker road' but all of them have signs outside advertising.

Speedboat down the Mekong takes 7 hours leaving Huayxai on the Lao side at approx 9:30, going nonstop and arriving in LPB at 4pm same day. I can't tell you the exact price as I have never taken one but I am guessing approx 4000 baht. The speedboat ticket bought in Chiang Khong will include guesthouse pick up and the Mekong crossing - you'll be led by a guide to the Lao immigration on the other side.

Slowboat down the Mekong takes 2 whole days with one overnight stay in Pakbeng. leaves Huayxai at approx 11am, arriving at Pakbeng at sunset 6pm. Leaves Pakbeng at 9am and will arrive in LPB at 5pm approx. Last time I did this trip was in March, the price per person was 2300 baht, discounted to 2000 baht. Again, includes pick up from guesthouse, Mekong crossing to Lao immigration with a guide.

Accommodation in Pakbeng is extra - when waiting to get on the slowboat in Houyxai, there will be people advertising rooms in Pakbeng. My advice is to book there and then, saves you a lot of hassle in the evening checking guesthouses when all you want to do is have a shower and a cool Beer Lao . Prices are generally the same offered by the touts and in Pakbeng - expect 350 baht per room. Basic double with fan, but all are clean.

Unless you are in a real hurry, I seriously recommend taking the slowboat option. The speedboats are way too fast and dangerous - in dry season there are a lot of exposed rocks, in rainy season (ie now) there is the danger of hitting logs. There have been numerous accidents in the past, also fatal. In addition the speedboat trip involves 7 hours of sitting knees up and constant massive noise from the motor - not nice . Helmets are provided but are more for show than any protection.

The slowboat takes longer but you get to see incredible scenery (great photo opps!), local life in riverside villages, and you can get up move about or just take a nap. Beer and soft drinks are sold onboard (but expensive ie 20,000 kip per Beer Lao / approx 100 baht) aswell as crisps. Would be worth taking a fried rice with you....make sure you take enough cash with you for the boat ride as Pakbeng has no ATM...

Pakbeng is lovely, very small, quiet with a decent amount of simple guesthouses, some local restaurants and a few simple 'tourist' bars.

Try and get on the slowboat in Houayxai (and in Pakbeng on the 2nd leg) as early as possible to get a decent seat, otherwise you might end up sitting on the floor the whole time (depends how full but they usually are).

Immigration on the Laos side will take about 30mins to process. Hand in your passport, make sure you have 1 passport photo, pay in USD because paying in Baht will cost you more. Once you get your passport back you will be led to a gathering point by your guide to get on the speed or slow boat.

In LPB you'll be met by a dozen guesthouse touts at the boat landing....I can recommend Jaliya guesthouse or Mixay guesthouse (both 250 baht / 8USD) both with hotwater and TV.

Hope this helps...have a great trip and enjoy !

[LuukKoeyKorat]

Just another quick note

If you decide on the 2 day Mekong slowboat experience, 2 days left in Luang Prabang will be enough for a good 'taster'. You will need just one day to explore the Old Town and the Mekong riverside. Try and make it up Phousi hill for a great sunset view of the old Luang Prabang and river. Second day maybe to Tatse or Kungsi waterfall - both are beautiful. Btw - tuk tuk ride from centre of town to LPB airport takes 15mins and will set you back 30,000 Kip or 120 baht per tuk tuk.

[livingthedream]

Excellent reply above - can't add anything more. Have a safe trip.

[el jefe]

Great, thorough info, LKK.

But just so the OP has some options I'd like to add this.

You can easily do all this yourself instead of using a travel agent in Chiang Khong. If you arrive in CK before 4:00pm, I would cross that day rather than wait til morning. Houie Xay is more interesting than CK and the lines at immigration (both leaving Thailand and entering Laos) are much shorter in the afternoons. I'd rather spend my time doing anything, rather than stand in lines. Maybe during the rainy season it doesn't matter. The current fare for the 5 minute ferry across the Mekong is 40 baht plus another fee for large backpacks.

The reason the boats don't leave until 11:00am is that they need to fill the boat with all the tourists that cross in the morning. The number of boats is determined by the number of passengers. They are sometimes very overcrowded. There's no way to know in advance. the official ticket office is about 1 km upstream from Laos Immigration (just go up the hill, turn left on the main road, and follow the signs). Travel agents in HX can also sell tickets with a very small surcharge.

If the lines at immigration are short then I certainly would not pre-book a guest house in Pak Beng. Some are definitely better than others. Pre booking won't save any money and locks you in. Better to get off the boat and see the room before you pay for it.

The slow boat will only leave you 2 days in LP. Not enough. The speed boats will get you there a day earlier and you can skip the wasted night in Pak Beng. imho, the risks of taking the speed boats are overstated, but they do happen. Only you can decide if the risk is worth taking.

hth.

[TPI]

Great info LKK, caught you on a good day, eh?

[LuukKoeyKorat]

Great info LKK, caught you on a good day, eh?

Not quite sure what happened there...the creative juices were certainly flowing....quite possibly influenced by this funny juice called 'Beer Lao'.....

[chinook]

2 days on a hard seat.........take a cushion!

[krading]

I've got a mate who wants to do the trip the other way around, Luang Prabang to Chiang Khong by boat.

What time does immigration shut as he thinks the boat gets in around 4 pm and also needs to get to Chiang Mai that night.

I reckon he's pushing his luck a bit.

Anybody done this?

Any suggestions are welcome.

[edthesock]

What does the slow boat option cost from Changers? The guesthouses were selling these tickets last time I was there 5 years ago.